Vineria San Telmo
Offering dining in a dimly lit dining room or on the street-level terrace, this popular Argentinean-owned restaurant near the touristy alcázar has a menu full of surprises. All dishes—which come as tapas, half portions, or full portions (ideal for sharing)—are superb and sophisticated, especially the eggplant stew with tomato, goat cheese, and smoked salmon, and the pork with curried pumpkin and rocket. It can get very crowded and noisy, so it's not always an ideal place for a romantic meal for two.