Vineria San Telmo
Offering dining in a dimly lit dining room or on the street-level terrace, this popular Argentinean-owned restaurant near the touristy alcázar has a menu full of surprises. All dishes—which come as tapas, half portions, or full portions (ideal for sharing)—are superb and sophisticated, especially the eggplant stew with tomato, goat cheese, and smoked salmon; and the curried pumpkin and rocket croquettes. It can get very crowded and noisy, so it's not always an ideal place for a romantic meal for two.