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More than two decades have passed since the fall of the Soviet Union and with it the days when dining choices in St. Petersburg, or any Russian city for that matter, were limited to traditional, often uninspired, but always inexpensive Russian-style eateries. In fact, dining is among the great pleasures in the city of Peter the Great these days. Yes, you can dine like a tsar, and in just about any other fashion and on any kind of cuisine you prefer. Top chefs have taken over the dining rooms of some of the best hotels—including the Grand Hotel Europe, the Kempinski, and the W—where they serve top-notch food in beautiful settings. You'll also find a growing number of ethnic choices, and even vegetarians, often at a loss to find a meat-free meal in Russian, have some options, too.
Traditionalists need not worry, however. Homey and jovial budget eateries serving quick, substantial, and good meals for less than 250 rubles have mushroomed around the city. Stands selling Russian blini, the hearty Russian cousin of the French crepe, are everywhere, and they make a great pit stop.
Here are a few things to keep in mind. Few restaurants in St. Petersburg have no-smoking sections; in fact, some places have cigarettes listed on the menu. But attitudes are changing and you'll sometimes be offered a seat in a no-smoking section. The dining sections of St. Petersburg Times and St. Petersburg in Your Pocket are worth checking out, for both the restaurant reviews and the ads for tempting business lunch deals, which are typically priced between 300R and 600R.
It's not necessary to plan ahead if you want to land a table in a nice establishment on weekdays, but it's generally a good idea to reserve ahead for weekend dining. Ask your hotel or tour guide for help making a reservation. Most restaurants stop serving food around 11 pm or midnight, although more and more 24-hour cafés are opening.
This favorite for relaxed weekend lunches is especially popular in warm weather, when outdoor tables overlook the Field of Mars. The main dining room is done in French farmhouse style, with chunky wooden tables and soft cushions; walls lined with dusty wine bottles; and a long table along one wall groaning under mounds of cheese, freshly baked bread, and fruit. Salads come in generous sizes and can easily replace a main course; Italian and Russian dishes predominate.
What was for many years the best restaurant in St. Petersburg has been surpassed in recent years, but with open brickwork walls, ornate decor, and immaculately presented tables, the "Old Customs House" still puts on a good show for a memorable night on the town. Meals are exquisitely prepared, with such choices as duck breast, accompanied by pan-fried foie gras with white beans and black truffle, and black-cod fillet on a cushion of saffron and fennel that show just how sophisticated Russian cuisine can be. The wine list is excellent, and the service is friendly as well as top-notch.
