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The former imperial capital still captivates, with accommodations that are often nothing short of sumptuous. In fact, as elsewhere in modern Russia, where luxury almost always means opulence, sophisticated minimalist interiors are few and far between here. Instead, heavy curtains, tapestries, ornate furniture, and deep carpeting grace the interiors of many of the top hotels, some of which are set in stately 19th-century mansions and charge prices to match the surroundings. One pervasive shortcoming is service, and in even in some of the grandest hotels you might encounter a somewhat haughty staff.
Like Moscow, St. Petersburg has a shortage of moderately priced hotels, and even economy-class hotels cost about twice the price you'd pay in almost any other European city. The best budget options are some of the guesthouses in former mansions that were converted to communal apartments during the Soviet era. Much nicer in this reincarnation, they're intimate, have a genial atmosphere, are often furnished with antiques, and charge rates that often include home-cooked breakfasts and modern comforts, such as free Wi-Fi.
On an organized tour, you're likely to land in one of the old standbys run by Intourist, the Soviet tourist agency monopoly. Most U.S. and British tour operators take advantage of the discounted rates at the Moskva or the Oktyabrskaya. If you're traveling on your own, the main reason to choose one of these hotels is their lower rates; many of them aren't convenient to major attractions.
An expanding number of realty agents like City Realty can organize a suitable and safe apartment rental, usually in the center of the city. The prices for such apartments usually run the level of three-star hotels, but accommodations often have much more space.
Each of the 20 airy guest rooms here shows off an original, somewhat quirky design that incorporates wood, brick, linen, and other natural materials in a style that evokes a different city or country, from Rome to China. A fireplace in the lounge and a banya (Russian steam bath) on the ground floor add to the homey atmosphere, making this place all the more popular with singers and musicians performing at the nearby Mariinsky Theatre.
Don't look for luxury, but comfort really does abound in these slightly old-fashioned and quirkily charming rooms on the second and third floors of a 19th-century building close to St. Isaac's Cathedral, the Hermitage, and other sights. The hospitality extends to a lounge serving free coffee, tea, and cookies around the clock.
Fyodor Dostoyevsky once lived here, and now the hotel offers comfortable rooms in a busy location with plenty of shops and cafés nearby. The decor falls a bit flat, but the top-floor Raskolnikov bar with glimpses of the church domes opposite is a bright spot, as is the gym with a sauna and jacuzzi.
The former home of Ivan Puschin, friend of Alexander Pushkin, retains much of its old character, offering comfortable, tastefully furnished guest rooms and excellent service in the heart of the city. A cozy café serves tasty, simple meals, at a discount for guests, and services include the use of a computer.
Wooden ceiling beams and patches of open brickwork are among the engaging features of these elegant and spacious rooms just around the corner from Nevsky prospekt. Best of all is the executive suite, furnished with antiques, that has walls decorated with wooden panels. All of this attention to detail pays tribute to namesake 19th-century architect Carlo Rossi, whose works grace the city's historic center. As an unusual bonus, the hotel staff offers guided tours showing off views of the city skyline and nearby courtyards from accessible flat rooftops of some nearby buildings. The on-site Fiolet restaurant is popular with local residents and serves Asian and European dishes prepared by a Russian chef—the scene is very lively on weekends.
