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Gozo and Comino

Gozo is a place to relax. Spend a morning in the walled, hilltop Cittadella; stroll around Victoria's narrow limestone-walled streets; look inside splendid local churches; and then head down for a swim at Ramla Bay or a boat ride from the Inland Sea at Dwejra ("dway-ra"). You can take great walks along the cliffs of Ta' ?en? ("ta chench") and San Lawrenz/Dwejra or hike past the centuries-old salt pans west of Marsalforn at Qbajjar.

Gozo has some superb restaurants, and local bakeries turn out tasty, crusty round loaves. The island's traditional craft is lace making, practiced by a diminishing number of older women who still make time for the intricacy of this labor of love. Like their Maltese counterparts, Gozitan men love to hunt, and native and migratory birds are either caged or shot. Most of the waist-high stone structures that dot Gozo's fields are blinds, and on autumn hunting-season mornings you'll hear the sporadic pop of rifles. The island has become increasingly popular for diving, especially at Xlendi Bay. The ferry docks at M?arr Harbour, but this part of Gozo is unrepresentative. Go elsewhere.

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