Antica Trattoria San Lorenzo Simone Ciccotti
Both the food and the service are outstanding at this popular small, brick-vaulted eatery next to the Duomo. Particular attention is paid to adapting traditional Umbrian cuisine to the modern palate, and there's also a nice variety of seafood dishes on the menu, both à la carte and in good-value tasting menus—the pacchero (pasta with smoked eggplant, cod, and scampi) is a real treat.