La Bucaccia
Inside a 13th-century palazzo, chef–owner Romano Magi prepares Tuscan and Arezzo specialities with a slow-food ethos. Beef is king with Magi sourcing high-quality IGP Chianina for all his raw, grilled, and roasted dishes.
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Inside a 13th-century palazzo, chef–owner Romano Magi prepares Tuscan and Arezzo specialities with a slow-food ethos. Beef is king with Magi sourcing high-quality IGP Chianina for all his raw, grilled, and roasted dishes.
On Sunday afternoon, this old-fashioned farmhouse-esque trattoria teems with lively Italian families. Grilled meats are the house specialty, and if you have room for dessert, the kitchen whips up a mean tiramisu. Eat in the dining room, or choose a shady table in the garden overlooking the vineyards.
An elegantly restored monastery in the upper part of Montepulciano is home to this excellent enoteca (wine bar), which has a wide selection of wines by the glass.
A perfect stop for lunch while exploring the region's wineries, this trattoria offers cucina casalinga (home cooking) that can be eaten in the dining room or on a lovely outdoor patio. Outstanding primi include maccheroni alla nonna (macaroni with asparagus in a light cream sauce dotted with truffle oil), while secondi usually feature delicious misto alla griglia (mixed grilled meats).
Part of the elegant Hotel Byron but open to the public, La Magnolia is helmed by chef Marco Bernardo, who knows his basics and allows flights of fantasy to take over. The games begin with amuse-bouches—his take on fegatini (a typical Tuscan chicken liver spread) with a gelatin made from Aleatico (a serious red wine) sets the stage for what's to follow. Stellar service and a well-informed sommelier also make the meal memorable, especially when it's served poolside.
Multicolor gingham tablecloths provide an interesting juxtaposition with rib-vaulted ceilings dating from the 13th century. The menu is seasonal—in autumn, don't miss the tonnarelli cacio e pepe (thick spaghetti with cheese and pepper), and, in summer, eat lighter fare on the intimate, flower-bedecked terrace in the back.
This lively, gaily colored little trattoria (the name means "black sheep") with a high-vaulted ceiling is staffed by giovani disabili (both mentally challenged and learning-disabled young people), who wait tables under the supervision of a nondisabled companion. The food's terrific, from the made-in-house pizzas and focaccias to the traditional torta ai pinoli (pine nut cake). Great care is taken with sourcing, when possible, local organic ingredients, and such care translates into a lovely meal.
The very unassuming decor (wooden tables, wooden chairs) sets the scene for terrific Tuscan food. Though there's not a truffle dish to be found on the menu, there's lots to satisfy the palate. The tasty food arrives in nicely sized portions; excellent house wine is on offer, as are other wines by the bottle, which are all nicely priced; and desserts are pretty good here.
Italian and Mediterranean risottos, pastas, and other dishes are reinterpreted with modern flair at this much lauded restaurant at the Castello Banfi wine resort. Desserts are also beautifully prepared, and Castello Banfi's excellent wines are a bonus.
You can enjoy straightforward Tuscan fare in the massive tower at the abbey's entrance, or, when it's warm, on a flower-filled terrace. The pici ai funghi (extra-thick handmade spaghetti with mushroom sauce) or zuppa di funghi (mushroom soup) take the sting out of a crisp winter day, and the grilled meats are a good bet at any time of year. If you want lighter fare, there's a bar serving panini that has outdoor seating.
This place could be mistaken for a grandmother's kitchen—it's completely unpretentious, with red-and-white-checked tablecloths and a waitstaff who treat you like an old friend. The restaurant teems with locals who appreciate the rock-bottom prices for well-prepared Tuscan specialties that include a superb tagliolini sui fagioli (thin noodles with beans).
Wonderful wines pair beautifully with the tasty morsels served atop toasted bread, though if you want something more substantial than the delicious cheese plate, consider the soup of the day. This place is an oasis in a town overrun with day visitors; though it's still very much in the center, it's far from the madding crowds.
This unpretentious locale excels in preparing its namesake dish—lardo, which is essentially cured pork fat seasoned with salt, pepper, rosemary, and garlic, and then thinly sliced and eaten with unsalted Tuscan bread. It hails from Colonnata and is much loved all over Tuscany. Order the salumi misti e lardo charcuterie board with sgabei (fried dough) to get a taste of everything.
In this small and cozy dining room, owner and sommelier Massimo Stella, his daughter Virginia, and chef Carlo Gutierrez bring fine dining flair to traditional Tuscan dishes like handmade pici pasta with black garlic and potato gnocchi. The wine list, which has many options by the glass, focuses on regional favorites.
This pleasant restaurant, with outdoor seating on Gaiole's main square, is as popular with the locals as it is with travelers. The menu, presented on small blackboards, has the occasional unexpected item, like the plate of perfectly grilled vegetables that's listed as an antipasto but is practically a meal in itself. The kitchen also makes its own delicious pastries and ice cream, so skipping dessert is difficult.
It bills itself as a caffetteria/ristorante, which means it opens at 7 in the morning for coffee, serves lunch and dinner, and then closes well after dinner is over. Warm-color, sponged walls and simple wooden tables and chairs provide the backdrop for some tasty fare. They're particularly big on fish here; if it's available, order the calamari spadellati su crema di fagioli alla paprika e valeriana (panfried squid on a creamy bean puree spiced with paprika and garnished with delicate green leaves). The lasagna is ample, cheesy, and thoroughly satisfying; the service is great; and the wine list is strong on local wines.
Relax amid vineyards on a countryside terrace with one of Chianti's most spectacular views, namely that of vineyards in the valley of the River Pesa. Enjoy the sophisticated menu, which pairs perfectly with the wine list (many of its selections are from what's growing around you), and be sure to try any of the delicious desserts.
On the daily menu you're likely to find both Sienese standards, such as spaghetti saporiti con agli aromi (with tomatoes and herbs), as well as more offbeat selections like bocconcini di pollo alla mediterranea (tender chicken cooked in a robust tomato-and-olive sauce). Husband-and-wife team Simone Romi and Sabrina Fabi are committed to including piatti di verdura (vegetarian dishes) among the choices, and they've put together a great wine list. A tasting menu allows you to sample just about all the daily specials. The little restaurant with high vaulted ceilings is in the oldest part of town.
This charming, white-walled restaurant, a few steps from Piazza dei Cavalieri, serves up exquisitely grilled fish dishes, pleases vegetarians, and prepares tagliata for meat lovers. Three set menus, from the sea, garden, and earth, are available, or you can order à la carte. For dinner there's an early seating (around 7:30) and a later one (around 9); opt for the later one if you want time to linger over your meal.
Although it calls itself an osteria (tavern), this place much more resembles a wine bar, with a bill of fare that includes several different types of pâtés and a short list of seasonal soups and salads. The sampler of goat cheeses, which can be paired with local wines, should not be missed. Operatic arias tend to play softly in the background, and service is courteous.
As high in Montepulciano as you can get, just behind the Duomo, this intimate restaurant is expertly run by the mother-and-son team of Lorena and Paolo Brachi, both of whom are passionate about the food they prepare and have a flair for the region's traditional dishes. Although the wine list is limited in range, it does have a decent selection of offerings from both Montepulciano and Montalcino. For a change from the usual Tuscan meat dishes, fresh fish is served on Friday. Outdoor seating is limited.
Husband and wife Claudio and Marila run this fish restaurant across the (busy) street from the docks. The decor's nothing to write home about (paneled walls with framed prints and navigational coats of arms)—here, it's all about the cacciucco (Livorno's famous seafood stew) and desserts.
Photographs from theatrical productions spanning many years line the walls of this tavern off Cortona's large Piazza del Teatro. The food is simply delicious—try the filetto al lardo di colonnata e prugne (beef cooked with bacon and prunes); service is warm and friendly.
Honest Tuscan cooking prevails at this simple trattoria next to a large parking lot. No matter that there's no view: the terrific food and pleasing service—all of it served in a typical Tuscan dining room with high timbered ceilings—make a stop here well worth the detour. Locals swear by the affettati misti (sliced cured meats), which include the stellar biroldo (cured pork from nearby Garfagnana). The ravioli di castagne (ravioli stuffed with chestnut puree, sauced with radicchio and pancetta bits) should not be missed.
If you're wiped out from too much sightseeing, consider a meal at this hole-in-the-wall restaurant where locals congregate for a simple lunch. There's a collection of verdure sott'olio, a wide selection of affettati misti, and pasta—all of which can be washed down with the cheap, yet eminently drinkable, house wines. Don't be put off by the absence of a written menu—all the food is displayed at the counter, so you can point if you need to.
Silvia Bonechi's experience in the kitchen—with the help of a few precious recipes handed down from her grandmother—is one of the reasons for the success of this small restaurant in the tiny hamlet of Lucarelli; the other is the front-room hospitality of Nada Michelassi. These two panzanelle (women from Panzano) serve a short menu of tasty and authentic dishes at what the locals refer to as il prezzo giusto (the right price).
Wall-to-wall Communist memorabilia greets you in this down-to-earth locale that serves cucina contadina (peasant's fare) with free-flowing beers and regular live music. The Livornese baccalà (salted cod) is a must-order, as are the chickpeas with parsley and white fish.
The first things you'll see upon entering this mercato e cucina (market and kitchen) is a row of dazzling, just-caught fish on ice and a display case with prepared foods to go. Select from a large array of crudi (including several raw oyster options) before opting for the fry (either mixed, anchovies, zucchini with squid, or fish croquettes) or the very tasty fish burger. Nice wines by the glass are on offer, as are bottles.
You can't come to San Miniato and not try its truffles, and few places serve them more generously or more graciously than Piccola Osteria del Tartufo. Depending on the season, you can try local white truffles, black truffles, and summer truffles liberally grated over cacio e pepe pasta or stuffed into a bacon-topped hamburger.
With sweeping views of Pienza, this family-owned farmhouse restaurant is decked out in the style of traditional Tuscan trattoria with frescoes depicting idyllic country scenes and plenty of exposed brickwork. The menu is equally rustic, with such lovingly served dishes as antipasti of local salumi (cold cuts) and ragù di cinghiale (wild boar ragu), whose recipe is a closely guarded family secret.