Fodor's Expert Review Pani Ca Meusa

A civic institution facing Palermo's old fishing port, this standing-room-only joint has been serving its titular calf's spleen sandwich for more than 70 years. The original owner's grandsons produce this local specialty sprinkled with a bit of salt and some lemon and served with or without cheese to a buzzing crowd of Palermo's well-weathered elders, and the sandwich here may very well beat Antica Focacceria San Francesco's for the title of best in town.