Naples

Naples is a fascinating city for shopping. Shops are generally open from around 9:30 in the morning to 1:30, when they close for lunch, reopening around 4:30 and staying open until 7:30 or 8, although certain higher-volume addresses will do orario continuo (all-day opening). Most stores are closed on Sunday. Sales run twice a year, mid-January–mid-March for the fall-winter collections and mid-July–early September for the spring-summer collections, with half-price discounts common.

Most of the luxury shops in Naples lie along a crescent that descends the Via Toledo to Piazza Trieste e Trento and then continues along Via Chiaia to Via Filangieri and on to Piazza Amedeo, as well as continuing south toward Piazza dei Martiri and the Riviera di Chiaia, where fashionistas flock to the upscale boutiques there. A good city for male fashion, Naples tends to spoil its male clotheshorses (many would use the word peacocks). Argenio, Eddy Monetti, Marinella, and Mariano Rubinacci are among the must-stops for the guys. And Italy wouldn't be Italy without shoes, for which there are many worthy shops here.

Naples is paradise for bibliophiles too. Chiaia has the city's largest cluster of bookstores, ranging from mass-market to superelegant antiquarian shops. Secondhand book dealers tend to collect between Piazza Dante, Via Port'Alba, and Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli in the Centro Storico, where historians and rare-book lovers alike can also unearth hidden treasures.

The charming shops specializing in Nativity scenes are in the Centro Storico, on the Via San Gregorio Armeno. The classic handicraft of Naples is the presepe—or Nativity crèche scene—with elaborate sets and terra-cotta figurines and elements of still life. The tradition goes back to the medieval period, but its acknowledged golden age arrived in the 18th century. The tradition is alive and flourishing; although the sets and figurines retain their 18th-century aspect, the craftsmen keep their creativity up-to-date with famous renditions of current political figures and other celebrities. The scenes contain a profusion of domestic animals and food of all sorts, meticulously rendered. Some of the smaller articles make great Christmas tree ornaments.

Antiquarians or simple robivecchi (secondhand shops) are found along Costantinopoli, San Sebastiano, Via Tribunali, and other streets. High-end antiques dealers do business in Chiaia, among them Domenico Russo e Figli and Galleria Navarro. If you're interested in original antiques, several prestigious dealers are clustered along Via Domenico Morelli and in Piazza dei Martiri. Via San Sebastiano, close to the Conservatory, is the kingdom of musical instrument shops.

The densest selection of goldsmiths' and jewelers' shops is located around the old jewelry-makers' quarter, Via degli Orefici (Street of the Goldsmiths), between Corso Umberto and Via Marina, but the area is noisy and frenetic. Dealers in the Centro Storico offer good choices and competitive prices. Shopping in an outdoor market is an essential Neapolitan experience too; food markets are all over town, and Neapolitans are the world masters of the used-clothing trade and unofficial brand-name knockoffs, sometimes of excellent quality. You might find shoes made by the same factories that turn out top brands, quality leather purses, or secondhand cashmere at the price of discount-store cotton. Of course, quite often you have to wade through a lot of dismal stock in order to get to the good stuff, but that can be part of the fun. Take precautions to guard against pickpockets.

In Vomero, the area around Piazza Vanvitelli, and Via Scarlatti in particular, has some good shops. Funiculars from Piazza Amedeo, Via Toledo, and Montesanto serve this portion of Vomero.

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  • 1. Ascione

    Piazza Municipio | Jewelry/Accessories

    A family firm established in 1855 and known for its traditionally made coral jewelry and artwork, Ascione has a showroom/gallery on the second...Read More

  • 2. Argenio

    Chiaia | Clothing

    An exclusive address for men's accessories, Argenio is the former supplier of scarves, cuff links, buttons, tiepins, and so forth to the royal...Read More

  • 3. Artestesa

    Centro Storico | Art Galleries

    In a tiny studio in the courtyard of the 15th-century Real Monte Manso di Scala, in the heart of the Centro Storico, two local Neapolitan artists...Read More

  • 4. Bancarelle di San Pasquale

    Chiaia | Outdoor/Flea/Green Markets

    High-quality shoes, bags, and clothing can be found every morning at this market in Chiaia that also has a large section of foods, spices, fruits...Read More

  • 5. Barbaro

    Toledo | Clothing

    Made in Italy" is the trademark of this popular shop that showcases the fashions of top-name designers. ...Read More

  • 6. Benetton

    Toledo | Clothing

    A good selection of affordable clothes can be found at Benetton, which continues to represent easy Italian chic to most of the world. ...Read More

  • 7. Bottega 21

    Centro Storico | Jewelry/Accessories

    Crafted bags and purses are made here while you watch....Read More

  • 8. Bowinkel

    Chiaia | Antiques/Collectibles

    For antique prints, postcards, watercolors, photographs, and engravings, the most famous shop in town is Bowinkel (here since 1879), where the...Read More

  • 9. Brinkmann

    Toledo | Jewelry/Accessories

    An institution in time pieces since 1900, Brinkmann made the clocks for the city's funicular stations. ...Read More

  • 10. Bulgari

    Chiaia | Jewelry/Accessories

    The posh brand showcases its internationally famous jewelry on posh Via Filangieri. ...Read More

  • 11. Cesare Attolini

    Clothing

    Three generations of tailors have created the very finest of suits, as worn by local actor Toni Servillo in the 2014 Oscar-winning film The...Read More

  • 12. Colonnese

    Centro Storico | Books/Stationery

    The antique wooden cabinets and tables at this old-fashioned bookstore are laden with volumes about art, local history, and esoterica. ...Read More

  • 13. Damiani

    Chiaia | Jewelry/Accessories

    Since 1924, award-winning Damiani has sold high-end watches and jewelry to the likes of Sophia Loren, Brad Pitt, and Gwyneth Paltrow. ...Read More

  • 14. DoDo

    Chiaia | Jewelry/Accessories

    The unusual jewelry at DoDo comes in the form of gold, silver, and other charms. ...Read More

  • 15. Domenico Russo e Figli

    Chiaia | Antiques/Collectibles

    This shop continues the centuries-old Neapolitan tradition of marble-inlay work, creating precious tables and console tops. ...Read More

  • 16. Eddy Monetti

    Chiaia | Clothing

    The original Eduardo Monetti opened his doors in 1887 as a hat designer, soon bringing in customers such as the tenor Enrico Caruso. The shop...Read More

  • 17. Egraphe

    Centro Storico | Crafts

    A tiny hole in the wall, Egraphe is crammed with notebooks of every style and size, different kinds of handmade papers, and unusual pens and pencils. ...Read More

  • 18. Emporio Armani

    Chiaia | Clothing

    Designer Giorgio Armani's mass-market brand does business in chic Piazza dei Martiri. ...Read More

  • 19. Ferrigno

    Centro Storico | Specialty Stores

    Shops selling Nativity scenes cluster along the Via San Gregorio Armeno off Spaccanapoli, and they're all worth a glance. The most famous is...Read More

  • 20. Furla

    Chiaia | Clothing

    The shop carries bags at surprisingly accessible prices. ...Read More

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