Argenio
An exclusive address for men's accessories, Argenio is the former supplier of scarves, cuff links, buttons, tiepins, and so forth to the royal Bourbons of the House of the Two Sicilies.
Naples is a fascinating city for shopping. Shops are generally open from around 9:30 in the morning to 1:30, when they close for lunch, reopening around 4:30 and staying open until 7:30 or 8, although certain higher-volume addresses will do orario continuo (all-day opening). Most stores are closed on Sunday. Sales run twice a year, mid-January–mid-March for the fall-winter collections and mid-July–early September for the spring-summer collections, with half-price discounts common.
Most of the luxury shops in Naples lie along a crescent that descends the Via Toledo to Piazza Trieste e Trento and then continues along Via Chiaia to Via Filangieri and on to Piazza Amedeo, as well as continuing south toward Piazza dei Martiri and the Riviera di Chiaia, where fashionistas flock to the upscale boutiques there. A good city for male fashion, Naples tends to spoil its male clotheshorses (many would use the word peacocks). Argenio, Eddy Monetti, Marinella, and Mariano Rubinacci are among the must-stops for the guys. And Italy wouldn't be Italy without shoes, for which there are many worthy shops here.
Naples is paradise for bibliophiles too. Chiaia has the city's largest cluster of bookstores, ranging from mass-market to superelegant antiquarian shops. Secondhand book dealers tend to collect between Piazza Dante, Via Port'Alba, and Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli in the Centro Storico, where historians and rare-book lovers alike can also unearth hidden treasures.
The charming shops specializing in Nativity scenes are in the Centro Storico, on the Via San Gregorio Armeno. The classic handicraft of Naples is the presepe—or Nativity crèche scene—with elaborate sets and terra-cotta figurines and elements of still life. The tradition goes back to the medieval period, but its acknowledged golden age arrived in the 18th century. The tradition is alive and flourishing; although the sets and figurines retain their 18th-century aspect, the craftsmen keep their creativity up-to-date with famous renditions of current political figures and other celebrities. The scenes contain a profusion of domestic animals and food of all sorts, meticulously rendered. Some of the smaller articles make great Christmas tree ornaments.
Antiquarians or simple robivecchi (secondhand shops) are found along Costantinopoli, San Sebastiano, Via Tribunali, and other streets. High-end antiques dealers do business in Chiaia, among them Domenico Russo e Figli and Galleria Navarro. If you're interested in original antiques, several prestigious dealers are clustered along Via Domenico Morelli and in Piazza dei Martiri. Via San Sebastiano, close to the Conservatory, is the kingdom of musical instrument shops.
The densest selection of goldsmiths' and jewelers' shops is located around the old jewelry-makers' quarter, Via degli Orefici (Street of the Goldsmiths), between Corso Umberto and Via Marina, but the area is noisy and frenetic. Dealers in the Centro Storico offer good choices and competitive prices. Shopping in an outdoor market is an essential Neapolitan experience too; food markets are all over town, and Neapolitans are the world masters of the used-clothing trade and unofficial brand-name knockoffs, sometimes of excellent quality. You might find shoes made by the same factories that turn out top brands, quality leather purses, or secondhand cashmere at the price of discount-store cotton. Of course, quite often you have to wade through a lot of dismal stock in order to get to the good stuff, but that can be part of the fun. Take precautions to guard against pickpockets.
In Vomero, the area around Piazza Vanvitelli, and Via Scarlatti in particular, has some good shops. Funiculars from Piazza Amedeo, Via Toledo, and Montesanto serve this portion of Vomero.
An exclusive address for men's accessories, Argenio is the former supplier of scarves, cuff links, buttons, tiepins, and so forth to the royal Bourbons of the House of the Two Sicilies.
A family firm established in 1855 and known for its traditionally made coral jewelry and artwork, Ascione has a showroom/gallery on the second floor of a shabby wing of the Galleria Umberto. Don't miss the 30-minute guided tour (€5, book ahead), which explains the company's rich history and takes in displays that include Egypt's King Farouk's elaborate wedding gift to his bride, Farida, as well as what many consider to be the most beautiful cameo in existence.
High-quality shoes, bags, and clothing can be found every morning at this Chiaia market, which also has a large section of foods, spices, fruits, and vegetables.
A good selection of affordable clothes can be found at Benetton, which continues to represent easy Italian chic to most of the world.
Bags and purses are crafted here while you watch.
An institution in timepieces since 1900, Brinkmann made the clocks for the city's funicular stations.
The upscale brand showcases its internationally famous jewelry and watches on posh Via Filangieri.
Since 1924, award-winning Damiani has sold high-end watches and jewelry to the likes of Sophia Loren, Brad Pitt, and Gwyneth Paltrow.
Charms and charm bracelets in gold or silver are the main draw at DoDo, which also sells delicate necklaces, rings, and earrings.
This shop continues the centuries-old Neapolitan tradition of marble-inlay work, creating precious tables and console tops.
When Eduardo Monetti opened his doors in 1887 as a hat designer, he soon attracted customers such as the tenor Enrico Caruso. Although this shop remains a landmark Neapolitan name in sartorial splendor for men, women can now find Monetti fashions on nearby Via Santa Caterina.
A tiny hole in the wall, Egraphe is crammed with notebooks of every style and size, different kinds of handmade papers, and unusual pens and pencils.
In Naples, designer Giorgio Armani's upscale mass-market shop does business in chic Piazza dei Martiri.
The largest bookstore in town carries books, CDs, and DVDs and has an inviting coffee bar on the lower ground floor. The branch in Stazione Centrale also has a large selection of English books.
Shops selling Nativity scenes cluster along the Via San Gregorio Armeno off Spaccanapoli, and they're all worth a glance. The most famous is Ferrigno. Although Maestro Giuseppe Ferrigno died in 2008, the family business continues, still faithfully using 18th-century techniques.
Furla's chic leather bags and wallets are both contemporary and timeless. Prices, particularly for its woven totes, are more accessible than those at other upscale accessory brands.
Marina Abramović, Anselm Kiefer, and Vanessa Beecroft are among international artists represented by this gallery.
The gallery exhibits the works of international artists of the caliber of Rebecca Horn and William Eggleston.
A small alleyway leading off the side of the Gesù Nuovo toward Via Toledo hides a little-known jewel that is worth the detour. Gallucci, founded in 1890, specializes in fruit-filled chocolates (cherry and grape are memorable) and a delightfully original local cult item: chestnuts filled with marsala. It also produces the most fantastically packaged Easter eggs—all with huge silver or gold bows—that you are ever likely to see.
Chocolate lovers will be thrilled to know that Gay-Odin, Naples's most famous cioccolateria, has eight stores around town, all recognizable by their inviting dark-wood Art Nouveau decor. Try the signature chocolate forest cake (foresta) or the unusual "naked" chocolates (nudi), a suave mixture of chestnuts and walnuts, some with a whole coffee bean wrapped in the center.
Come to this outpost of the iconic fashion chain for a range of luxury handbags, footwear, ready-to-wear clothing, accessories, and home decoration.
The French brand Hermès sells its world-renowned scarves, ties, and leather bags, among other things, in a shop on the increasingly chic Via Filangieri.
IDEM, run by the same family for more than a generation, sells handcrafted leather bags, wallets, and belts and counts Tom Cruise among its customers.
The art of mosaic making is still practiced in Naples and can be seen in this tiny workshop.
Menswear by Italian and international designers can be found here.
The store's Scuotto family creates Nativity scenes in both classic Neapolitan and contemporary styles, donating the Presepe Favoloso to the Basilica di Santa Maria in Sanità in 2021. Past customers include the Spanish royal family.
Neapolitan artist Lello Esposito has his workshop here, just across the courtyard from what is more of a museum than a store. Renowned for his renderings of a popular puppet named Pulcinella (the prototype for Punch of Punch & Judy), you can see a statue of his creation at the top of Vico del Fico al Purgatorio, just off Via dei Tribunali. Lello also has an atelier in Brooklyn and has created works for Obama.
For antique wonders or eclectic creations in gold, precious stones, and silver, make yourself at home on one of the velvet chairs inside Leonardo Gaito (operating since 1864) and get ready to be regaled with some fabulous Neapolitan-style jewels.