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Naples is a fascinating city for shopping. Shops are generally open from around 9:30 in the morning to 1:30, when they close for lunch, reopening around 4:30 and staying open until 7:30 or 8, although certain higher-volume addresses will do orario continuo (all-day opening). Most stores are closed on Sunday. Sales run twice a year, mid-January–mid-March for the fall-winter collections and mid-July–early September for the spring-summer collections, with half-price discounts common.
Most of the luxury shops in Naples lie along a crescent that descends the Via Toledo to Piazza Trieste e Trento and then continues along Via Chiaia to Via Filangieri and on to Piazza Amedeo, as well as continuing south toward Piazza dei Martiri and the Riviera di Chiaia, where fashionistas flock to the upscale boutiques there. A good city for male fashion, Naples tends to spoil its male clotheshorses (many would use the word peacocks). Argenio, Eddy Monetti, Marinella, and Mariano Rubinacci are among the must-stops for the guys. And Italy wouldn't be Italy without shoes, for which there are many worthy shops here.
Naples is paradise for bibliophiles too. Chiaia has the city's largest cluster of bookstores, ranging from mass-market to superelegant antiquarian shops. Secondhand book dealers tend to collect between Piazza Dante, Via Port'Alba, and Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli in the Centro Storico, where historians and rare-book lovers alike can also unearth hidden treasures.
The charming shops specializing in Nativity scenes are in the Centro Storico, on the Via San Gregorio Armeno. The classic handicraft of Naples is the presepe—or Nativity crèche scene—with elaborate sets and terra-cotta figurines and elements of still life. The tradition goes back to the medieval period, but its acknowledged golden age arrived in the 18th century. The tradition is alive and flourishing; although the sets and figurines retain their 18th-century aspect, the craftsmen keep their creativity up-to-date with famous renditions of current political figures and other celebrities. The scenes contain a profusion of domestic animals and food of all sorts, meticulously rendered. Some of the smaller articles make great Christmas tree ornaments.
Antiquarians or simple robivecchi (secondhand shops) are found along Costantinopoli, San Sebastiano, Via Tribunali, and other streets. High-end antiques dealers do business in Chiaia, among them Domenico Russo e Figli and Galleria Navarro. If you're interested in original antiques, several prestigious dealers are clustered along Via Domenico Morelli and in Piazza dei Martiri. Via San Sebastiano, close to the Conservatory, is the kingdom of musical instrument shops.
The densest selection of goldsmiths' and jewelers' shops is located around the old jewelry-makers' quarter, Via degli Orefici (Street of the Goldsmiths), between Corso Umberto and Via Marina, but the area is noisy and frenetic. Dealers in the Centro Storico offer good choices and competitive prices. Shopping in an outdoor market is an essential Neapolitan experience too; food markets are all over town, and Neapolitans are the world masters of the used-clothing trade and unofficial brand-name knockoffs, sometimes of excellent quality. You might find shoes made by the same factories that turn out top brands, quality leather purses, or secondhand cashmere at the price of discount-store cotton. Of course, quite often you have to wade through a lot of dismal stock in order to get to the good stuff, but that can be part of the fun. Take precautions to guard against pickpockets.
In Vomero, the area around Piazza Vanvitelli, and Via Scarlatti in particular, has some good shops. Funiculars from Piazza Amedeo, Via Toledo, and Montesanto serve this portion of Vomero.
The antique wooden cabinets and tables at this old-fashioned bookstore are laden with volumes about art, local history, and esoterica. Another branch, Libreria Colonnese Books&More at Via San Biagio dei Librai 100, has more modern titles.
A small store with many books about Neapolitan art and history, this place stocks a few English titles and has a wide selection of music CDs.
Since 1825, several generations of the Calace family have contributed to this prestigious shop's reputation for exquisitely made mandolins. This is an active workshop, so phone ahead for an appointment.
The Neapolitan designer Livio de Simone was famous for his bright, printed-textile designs worn by 1950s and '60s celebrity femmes, and now his daughter, Benedetta, continues the tradition of creating chic, boldly printed fabrics, clothing, and housewares.
Lose yourself in this emporium of luxury handbags, suitcases, and travel accessories spread across two floors.
Count the British royal family among the customers of this shop, which has been selling traditional made-to-measure ties for more than 100 years. It also sells scarves and other small accessories for both men and women.
The best place in the city for fruit and vegetables, this market can be found several blocks northwest of Piazza Carità off Via Toledo.
For low-price and surprisingly high-quality clothing, shoes, and linens, head to this morning market. There are also stalls selling fruit and vegetables.
Open four days a week (Friday–Monday), this market is a little farther out than most, but it has a vast selection of shoes in all styles and sizes, and at uniformly low prices. Clothes, antiques, and other items are also for sale. Some locals insist that the best bargains can be found on Friday.
This Thursday-morning market mainly sells clothing—from designer to vintage—and household items. Arrive early for the best bargains.
Groceries and household items are sold at the cheapest prices at this popular market, along with jeans, shoes, and a surprising number of untagged name-brand items at half price or better.
The club set heads to perky Oblomova for vintage and handmade clothing and accessories, as well as for books, vinyl, CDs, and even cassettes.
Stylish bags, boots, and jewelry are displayed in this branch of the luxury Milanese brand.
If you feel like indulging in a custom-made suit or shirt, try this world-famous haberdashery that's been in business since the 19th century. In the 16th-century Palazzo Cellamare, you can watch the tailors at work.
Although based in Florence, Ferragamo is also beloved by Neapolitans who appreciate fine Italian taste and craftsmanship when it comes to footwear, bags, and belts, as well as clothing.
Since 1865, this place has been crafting fine leather luggage, bags, belts, and wallets.
Young and promising Italian and international artists are shown here, along with their established counterparts.
One of Naples's oldest jewelry workshops, operating since 1850, sells its exclusive, contemporary silver and/or gold jewelry—the original designs of its gifted artisans—in this chic salon as well as a branch in Vomero.
Trendy Zara, part of a Spanish chain known for its cheap-and-hip fashions, delivers the goods at a reasonable price.
