A small fishing port until the 17th century, Mergellina in western Naples is now a major traffic hub and very much a part of the city. Fishermen still gather here, but can be difficult to spot among the private yachts and pleasure craft lining the long pier.
Climbing the hill to Capo Posillipo, this is the address to have. Sumptuous villas and gardens with private beaches line the coast; the imposing white mansion Villa Rosebery, the Italian president's Neapolitan residence, is the most noteworthy (and is visible only from the sea). Naples' most famous panorama is also here, immortalized in countless postcards and pizzeria paintings: a lone umbrella pine on a bluff overlooking the bay and the city, with Vesuvius in the background. The iconic pine tree no longer exists, but the view remains magnificent.