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Florence's popularity with tourists means that, unfortunately, there's a higher percentage of mediocre restaurants here than you'll find in most Italian towns (Venice, perhaps, might win the prize). Some restaurant owners cut corners and let standards slip, knowing that a customer today is unlikely to return tomorrow, regardless of the quality of the meal. So, if you're looking to eat well, it pays to do some research, starting with the recommendations here. Dining hours start at around 1 for lunch and 8 for dinner. Many of Florence's restaurants are small, so reservations are a must. You can sample such specialties as creamy fegatini (a chicken-liver spread) and ribollita (minestrone thickened with bread and beans and swirled with extra-virgin olive oil) in a bustling, convivial trattoria, where you share long wooden tables set with paper place mats, or in an upscale ristorante with linen tablecloths and napkins.
Those with a sense of culinary adventure should not miss the tripe sandwich, served from stands throughout town. This Florentine favorite comes with a fragrant salsa verde (green sauce) or a piquant red hot sauce—or both. Follow the Florentines' lead and take a break at an enoteca (wine bar) during the day and discover some excellent Chiantis and Super Tuscans from small producers who rarely export.
International cuisine in Florence is a hit-or-miss affair. Although numerous Asian restaurants have sprung up since the 1990s, only a select few are worth a visit. Still, if you need a break from Italian, some relief is available.
Pizzas in Florence can't compete with their counterparts in Rome or Naples, but you can sample a few good approximations.
Cafés in Italy serve not only coffee concoctions and pastries but also sweets, drinks, and panini, and some have hot pasta and lunch dishes. They usually open from early in the morning to late at night, and are often closed Sunday.
This upscale trattoria serves sumptuous options like the creamy crostini di fegatini (a savory chicken-liver spread) and melt-in-your-mouth desserts. Many Florentines hail this as the city's best restaurant, and justifiably so—late chef--owner Fabio Picchi (who left behind his Florence culinary legacy in 2022) knew Tuscan food better than anyone, and it shows.
This tavola calda (cafeteria) in the middle of the covered Mercato Centrale has been serving Florentines since 1872. Tasty primi and secondi are always available, as are bollitos (boiled beef sandwiches), but the cognoscenti come for the panino con il lampredotto (tripe sandwich)—best when it's prepared bagnato (with the bread quickly dipped in the tripe cooking liquid) and served slathered with green and/or spicier red sauce.
Florentines and other lovers of good food flock to "The Holy Drinker" for Tuscan-inspired dishes—perhaps the exceptional verdure sott'olio or the terrina di fegatini (a creamy chicken-liver spread) to start, followed by one of the divine pastas. Unpretentious white walls, dark wood furniture, and paper placemats provide the simple decor. The extensive wine list is well priced.
Casalinga means "housewife," and this place, which has been around since 1963, has the nostalgic charm of a mid-century kitchen with Tuscan comfort food to match. If you eat ribollita anywhere in Florence, eat it here—it couldn't be more authentic. Paintings clutter the semi-paneled walls, tables are set close together, and the place is usually jammed. The menu is long, portions are plentiful, and service is prompt and friendly. For dessert, the lemon sorbet perfectly caps off the meal. Making reservations for this place isn't a bad idea.
Since opening its doors in 1869, this trattoria has been serving top-notch, unpretentious food to Florentines who like their bistecca very large and, of course, very rare, as that's the only way to eat it. The tartino di carciofi (artichoke tart) and the pollo al burro (chicken with butter) are signature dishes.
On a romantic medieval side street in the heart of the centro storico, this small restaurant has two menus—one with Tuscan classics that reflect both the whims of the chef and what's in season, and the other that's focused on truffles, either white or black, again based on the season. On the first menu, look for creative salads and pasta, meat, and taglieri (mixed meat and cheese plates) that are often served with jams made from Chianti, vin santo, or balsamic vinegar. On the second menu, each of the antipasti, primi, and secondi has a fresh-shaved truffle finish. The long wine list has many offerings by the glass, and the bread and desserts are made in-house. This is also a great place to drop in for a glass of wine and perch on outdoor benches to watch the world go by.
Locals flock to this narrow, family-run trattoria to feast on Tuscan favorites served at simple tables under a wooden ceiling dating from 1536. Genuine Florentine hospitality prevails—you'll be seated wherever there's room, which often means with strangers—and, yes, there's a bit of extra oil in most dishes, which imparts calories as well as taste, but aren't you on vacation? Worth the caloric splurge is riso al ragù (rice with ground beef and tomatoes).
This restaurant just across from the Basilica of San Lorenzo and run by the Gozzi family since 1915 serves food that's as delicious as it is affordable. The short menu changes daily, though the lombatina alla griglia (grilled veal T-bone steak) is almost always available, and meat eaters should not miss it. Pastas are equally terrific. Dessert, in true Florentine fashion, is usually limited to biscotti with vin santo. The trattoria doesn't take reservations so expect to wait in line.
The name doesn't exactly mean "old dive," but it comes pretty close. The recipes here come from "wise grandmothers" and celebrate Tuscan food in its glorious simplicity—prosciutto is sliced to order, grilled meats are tender, service is friendly, and the wine list is well-priced and good. This lively trattoria has been around only since 1979, but it feels as if it's been in existence much longer. Reservations are a good idea.
After a morning of shopping on Via Tornabuoni, stop for lunch in this 15th-century palazzo, a place to see and be seen as well as to dine. The panache of the clientele is matched by that of the food, which is served with olive oil and vegetables from the family farm.
This intimate trattoria, known to locals as Cibreino, shares its name and its kitchen with the famed Florentine restaurant but has a shorter, less-expensive menu. Save room for dessert, as the pastry chef has a deft hand with chocolate tarts. To avoid sometimes agonizingly long waits, make a reservation online or by phone.
At one of Florence's biggest markets, you can grab lunch to go, or you can cram into one of the booths and pour from the straw-cloaked flask (wine here is da consumo, which means they charge you for how much you drink). Food is abundant and Tuscan, service is fast, and locals pack in. The ample menu changes daily (nine secondi are the norm), and the prices are great. On Friday, fish is served.
If you're brave enough to try lampredotto, get in line at this food truck. Popular with construction workers, the filling Florentine sandwich of a cow's fourth stomach, slow-cooked with tomato, parsley, onion, and celery, is served on crusty bread with a signature spicy salsa verde. Lasagne, tortellini, coccoli (fried dough balls served with prosciutto), daily specials, and trippa alla fiorentina (stewed tripe served with bread on the side), are also on offer. There are a few tables to eat outside.
Florentines flock here to indulge in the sinfully rich, thin-crust pizzas turned out by a skilled pizzaiuolo (pizza-maker). However, the real thrills come from the fantastic osteria part of the menu. This is a taxi ride from the historic center, which is probably one reason why it's filled with Florentines.
This innovative, charming place serves up remarkable food and is a must if you're looking for a sublime bistecca alla fiorentina. The wine list, as befits the love child of a fine enoteca, is divine.
Come early (or late) to grab a seat at this tiny spot frequented by Florentine university students and businesspeople, who come to enjoy the day's primi (the lasagna is terrific), perhaps followed by the polpettone (meat loaf) and tomato sauce. Though seats are cramped, and the wine is no great shakes, the service is friendly, and the food hits the spot.
Come to this tiny, cramped, and boisterous place for hearty, stick-to-your-ribs Florentine dishes such as ribollita (Tuscan bread soup). Seating is communal, with diners sharing big, straw-covered flasks of wine; service is prompt and efficient; and two nimble cooks with impeccable timing staff the small kitchen.
Always crowded this osteria is next to San Niccolò church, and, if you sit in the lower part, you'll be in what was once a chapel dating from the 11th century. The subtle but dramatic background nicely complements the food, which is simple Tuscan. The pollo con limone is tasty pieces of chicken in a lemon-scented broth. In winter, try the spezzatino di cinghiale con aromi (wild boar stew with herbs). Reservations are advised for dinner.
Down the street from the church of Santa Maria Novella, this gaily decorated spot, festooned with plants and portraits of Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn, has an ever-changing menu and stellar service. The list of Tuscan standards is shaken up with alternatives such as stracciatella with shrimp and cherry tomatoes and truffles, when in season. If you want to eat alfresco, request a table outside when booking—and remember to save room for dessert.
The Frescobaldi family has run a vineyard for more than 700 years, and this swanky establishment offers tasty and sumptuous fare to accompany some seriously fine wines. The menu is typically Tuscan, but turned up a notch or two. Save room for dessert, as well as one of the dessert wines.
If you're making the trip to Settignano, get off Bus 10 at the stop called Ponte a Mensola for a meal at this small, unassuming, family-run trattoria situated along a street and a tiny stream. The food is terrific, and though it is described as cucina casalinga (home cooking), only the portions are home style. If you sit outside (there are no views, alas), you might hear the trickle of the stream.
"Zeb" stands for zuppa e bollito (soup and boiled things), but you can't go wrong with anything at this small alimentari (delicatessen) with high-quality ingredients at a reasonable price. It's homestyle Tuscan cuisine at its very best, served in intimate surroundings (there's room for only about 20 diners). Giuseppina and her son, Alberto, insist on cooking what's fresh that day, reflecting the season's best offerings.
