3 Best Sights in Kalamata, The Peloponnese

The oldest church in Kalamata is the small 13th-century Agioi Apostoli ("Holy Apostles"), dedicated to the Virgin of Kalamata ("of the good eye"), from whom the town may get its name. The Greek War of Independence was formally declared here on March 23, 1821, and a celebration is held at the church on that date every year. Even the square on which it lies, Martiou 23 (March 23rd), is named after this historic moment.

This small, well-organized collection is shown to advantage in the city's rebuilt 18th-century market hall. On display are local stone tools and proto-Geometric and Geometric pottery in a display that runs through every ancient site in Messinia (big and small), offering background on each. It's a particularly good primer for exploring the area.

In the early 13th century, William de Champlitte divided the Peloponnese into 12 baronies. He bestowed Kalamata on Frankish knight Geoffrey de Villehardouin, who built a winter castle here. Through the centuries the castle was bitterly fought over by Franks, Slavs, and Byzantines, and today it's difficult to tell what of the remains is original. From Martiou 23 Square, walk up Ipapandis past the church, take the first left at the castle gates, and climb the small hill; the views of the town, coast, and the Messinian plain are lovely.