The Best Sight in France

As you drive the few roads that crisscross the Camargue, you'll usually be within the boundaries of the Parc Naturel Régional de Camargue, which covers more than 400 square miles of the of the Camargue’s 580 total square miles—basically, everything but a slice of the far western quarter around the gateway town of Aigues-Mortes. Unlike most national parks in the United States, this area is supervised by the state but privately owned, primarily by the manadier ranchers. Though there are several protected nature reserves, they have no regulatory power and primarily serve as consultants to local stakeholders.

Virtually all of the Camargue’s major roads, as well as its hiking, cycling, and horseback riding paths, are within the park. In fact, you’ll rarely feel you’ve gotten an off-the-beaten-path experience until you’re out of the car and exploring on foot, by bike, or on horseback. In the saddle, you’re likely to be with a group unless you book an individual tour in advance. Signs for horseback rides are everywhere along the main roads, and there are about 15 major cycling and trekking routes, most of which can be completed within one to six hours.

The best sources for maps and information, and what you’re likely to encounter, can be found at the tourist office in Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer, where many trails begin, or the Centre d’Information de la Réserve Nationale de Camargue, which also has exhibits on area wildlife and is the starting point of three discovery trails. You can also get trail maps and expert advice at the bike rental shops like Le Vélo Sainto ( www.levelosaintois.com) in Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer.

You'll need comfortable hiking shoes and a backpack to carry mosquito repellent, sunglasses, binoculars, snacks, and plenty of water. Provisions are available in the main gateway towns, and routes are well marked so there’s little worry about getting lost.