Domaine La Tourraque
This 100-acre winery, a highly regarded domaine producing wine since 1805, offers free tastings year-round without reservation. It also runs the Village Cellar in town from June through September.
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This 100-acre winery, a highly regarded domaine producing wine since 1805, offers free tastings year-round without reservation. It also runs the Village Cellar in town from June through September.
This sanctuary served as the region's cathedral until the bishopric was transferred to Grasse in 1244. The church's 18th-century facade, a marvelous Latin mix of classical symmetry and fantasy, has been restored in stunning shades of ocher and cream. Its stout medieval watchtower was built in the 11th century with stones "mined" from Roman structures. Inside is a Baroque altarpiece painted by the Niçois artist Louis Bréa in 1515.
If Nice's other chapels are jewel boxes, this is a barn. Broad, open, and ringing hollow after the intense concentration of sheer matter in the Miséricorde and Ste-Rita, it seems austere by comparison. That's only because the decoration is spread over a more expansive surface. If it's possible, this 17th-century Baroque chapel is even more theatrical and over-the-top than its peers. Angels throng in plaster and fresco, pillars spill over with extravagantly sculpted capitals, and from the pulpit (to the right, at the front) the crucifix is supported by a disembodied arm.
This 19th-century, neo-Byzantine church owes its warm, reddish hue to the pink sandstone native to the Estérel region. Its striking dome, reminiscent of Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia, watches over yachts and cruise ships as they glide into the harbor. Step inside, and you might be treated to the angelic strains of a choir rehearsal—or perhaps even a recital.
Next to the Museum of Archeology in the vieille ville, this 12th-century church (also known as Église St-Pierre-des-Templiers) is a miniature-scale Romanesque church. It was recently discovered that its foundations lie on top of two other churches dating from the Carolingian era (AD 800–888). Climb up the 129 steps of the 13th-century bell tower, the Tour San Rafeu, for 360-degree panoramic views, and snap away.
This serene Baroque structure at the foot of the château anchors the oldest church-parish in Nice. Built in 1405, it was here that Martin Luther preached in 1510 and Garibaldi was baptized in 1807.
This modest baroque church, above Rue Obscure, contains a movingly realistic sculpture of Christ carved in fig wood by an anonymous 17th-century convict.
Tucked away on Plage de l’Épi, this lush, luxurious, family-friendly retreat is accessible via a sandy path flanked by dense Mediterranean greenery. Seated on cane chairs at alfresco tables dressed with vintage floral linens, you can select from Italian coastal dishes such as zucchini-flower fritters, grilled fish, and fresh pasta. While you sip a Bellini at the bar, the little ones can have the time of their lives at Gigi Circus kids’ club. Gigi also offers private dining nooks, a pétanque court, hammocks, and a pool shaded by towering pine trees. A spa nestled within the grounds completes the idyllic setting. Amenities: food and drink; valet parking; showers; toilets. Best for: families; swimming.
Fréjus is graced with one of the most impressive religious monuments in Provence. The Groupe Épiscopal is made up of an early Gothic cathedral, a 5th-century Roman-style baptistery, and an early Gothic cloister, its gallery painted in sepia and earth tones with a phantasmagoric assortment of animals and biblical characters. Off the entrance and gift shop is a small museum of finds from Roman Fréjus, including a complete mosaic and a sculpture of a two-headed Hermès.
The 19th-century Italianate Hôtel de Ville conceals a treasure by painter Jean Cocteau: he decorated the Salle des Mariages (Marriage Room) with vibrant allegorical scenes. Today it is used for civil marriages.
Smaller and wilder than Ste-Marguerite, Île St-Honorat is home to an active monastery and the ruins of its 11th-century predecessor. The monks are more famous in the region for their nonreligious activity: manufacturing and selling a rather strong liqueur called Lérina. Retreats at the abbey's hôtellerie require a two-night minimum stay, and you must bring your own sheets and towels and obey the rule of silence (even during mealtime). There is no cost, but a donation of €45–€55 per night per person is welcome. There is Wi-Fi but only in a restricted area. There are no garbage cans on Île St-Honorat, so be prepared to take any trash you generate back with you to Cannes.
Along Promenade des Anglais, this luxurious garden stands over the delta of the River Paillon, underground since 1882. Every kind of flower and palm tree grows here, thrown into exotic relief by night illumination. Home base for many city festivals with its Théâtre de Verdure, the garden is the starting point for Nice's Promenade du Paillon.
To fully experience the Riviera's heady hothouse exoticism, visit this glorious garden, established by botanist Gustave Thuret in 1856 as a testing ground for subtropical plants and trees. Thuret was responsible for introducing the palm tree, which forever changed the look of the French Riviera. On his death, the property was left to the Ministry of Agriculture, which continues to dabble in the introduction of exotic species. Tours from 90 minutes up to three hours can be reserved in advance.
Directly in front of the tourist office, the broad tropical Jardins Biovès stretches 2,600 feet across the breadth of the center, sandwiched between two avenues. Its symmetrical flower beds, exotic trees, sculptures, and fountains representing the spiritual heart of town are free to visit, except during the Fête du Citron, when they display giant sculptures constructed out of 15 tons of citrus fruit, and also at Christmas, when it has a more festive feel.
Via steel walkways, explore (by tour only) this half-acre archaeological crypt beneath Place Garibaldi. It contains the remains of a 14th-century tower and aqueduct that were razed by Louis XIV and only uncovered during excavations for Nice's tram system at the beginning of this century. The Centre du Patrimoine (Heritage Center) offers one-hour guided tours for up to 15 people, but you must reserve with them directly at 14 rue Jules-Gilly. The meeting point—Place Jacques Toja—is just off Place Garibaldi. Wear "sensible shoes," as heels can't be worn in the crypt.
A block west of Rue Clémenceau, in a pretty house at the end of a typically Tropezien lane, the Butterfly Museum is an original place to spend an afternoon. The 35,000 specimens, displayed on scenery backdrops were a passion of late collector and painter Dany Lartigue, the son of the famous photographer Jacques-Henri.
If you need a culture fix, check out the world-class contemporary and modern art exhibitions held at the Malmaison, a 19th-century Belle Époque mansion reimagined as Cannes’ international art center. The rooftop offers spectacular views over the bay.
On the edge of town, follow the pink signs to La Verrerie de Biot, which has developed into something of a cult industry since its founding in the 1950s. Here you can observe the glassblowers at work; visit the extensive galleries of museum-quality glass art (which is of much better quality than the kitsch you find in the village shop windows); and start a collection of bubbled-glass goblets, cruets, or pitchers, just as Jackie Kennedy did when the rage first caught hold (she liked cobalt blue). Despite the extreme commercialism—there is a souvenir shop, an eco-museum, a boutique of home items, audio tours of the glassworks, a bar, and a restaurant—it's a one-of-a-kind artisanal industry, and the product is made before your eyes.
Renovated to the tune of €5 million, Le Ruhl is the biggest "machine park" on the Côte d'Azur luring in the summer vacationers and the winter convention crowd with vivid colors and fiber-optic lighting. Some flock into the hushed gaming room for poker and blackjack; others try their luck at one of the 282 slot and 36 electronic English roulette machines.
To experience St-Tropez's natural beauty up close, consider walking parts of the sentier du littoral, or coastal path, around the peninsula and all the beaches to Cavalaire-sur-Mer. The 12½-km (7-mile) route to Tahiti Beach has longish stretches on sand beach and takes about 3½ hours. Leave from the Tour du Portalet or the Tour Vieille at the edge of the Quartier de la Ponche. Follow the footpath from Plage des Graniers along the beaches and cliffs overlooking the water, often with views toward the Estérel or out to the open sea.
At Tahiti Beach, you can walk the 3.5 km (2 miles, 50 minutes) inland stretch back to town or continue another 5 km (3 miles, 90 minutes) along the Plage de Pampelonne to the Bonne Terasse Beach. From here it gets serious, with another 19 km (12 miles, 6 hours) to Cavalaire to complete the entire trail. But you'll need to plan ahead to catch one of the few buses back to St-Tropez. Otherwise, it's 18 km (11 miles) back to town.
Climb up Rue St-Antoine into the picturesque Vieille Ville neighborhood known as Le Suquet, on the site of the original Roman castrum. Shops here proffer Provençal goods, and the atmospheric cafés provide a place to catch your breath. The pretty pastel shutters, Gothic stonework, and narrow passageways (not to mention the views) are lovely distractions. In July, you can hear young musicians perform free open-air concerts in the Place de la Castre during the Jeunes Talents festival.
This chic beach club and restaurant on Plage de Pampelonne offers a mix of elegance—with collaborations from houses such as Gucci—and relaxed Riviera atmosphere. Sun filters through a pergola where you can enjoy linguine with vongole, truffle pizza, sea bream carpaccio, or other Italian-inspired dishes on the menu designed by chef Benoît Dargère. The atmosphere gradually shifts from casual dining to lively beats up until closing time at 7 pm. Amenities: food and drink; toilets; showers; valet parking; water sports. Best for: swimming; partiers.
Between the lively pedestrian Rue St-Michel and the waterfront, the marvelous Marché Couvert (Les Halles) is considered one of the best (but pricey) food markets in France. Its Belle Époque facade is decorated in jewel-tone ceramics, and it's equally colorful and appealing inside, where, each day, some 30 merchants sell homemade bread (one gluten-free) and mountains of cheese, oils, fruit, and Italian delicacies daily (be sure to try the local dish, barbbajuans, a fritter stuffed with Swiss chard and ricotta). On Saturday, there is a clothing market outside at Place Fornari. Across from the market, the Italian Café Sini sells to-die-for apricot croissants and mouthwatering pizzas.
Just a couple of blocks east of the train station along Rue Jean Jaurès, you can pick up fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as clothes, shoes, belts, and bags at this covered market. While in the neighborhood, visit the nearby Asian and kosher shops, or stop in for one of the creamiest cappuccinos this side of Italy at Volupté ( 32 rue Hoche Closed Sun.).
Dramatic forest scenery makes taking a drive west and northwest of St-Tropez (take the D98 toward Grimaud) along the D558 worthwhile even if you're not heading up to the A8. This is the Massif des Maures, named for the Moors who retreated here from the Battle of Poitiers in 732 and profited from its strong position over the sea. The largest forest area in the Var reaches an altitude of 2,560 feet. Some 26 villages share the Massif's borders and—amid vineyards and mushroom-shape parasol pines unique to the Mediterranean—crowd the highway (as do cyclists in spring).
The forest is dark with thick cork oaks whose ancient trunks are girdled for cork every 10 years or so, leaving exposed a broad band of sienna brown. Looming even darker and thicker above are chestnut trees, cultivated for their thick, sweet nuts, which you are not allowed to gather from the forest floor, as signs from the growers' cooperative will warn. The best place to sample châtaignes—whether in doughnuts, beer, or the famous marrons glacés (candied chestnuts)—is at the festival held every October in Collobrières, aka the chestnut capital of the world.
Established in 1849, Molinard offers an extensive tour that includes visits to the Soap Factory, the Distillery (witness "the nose" at work concocting new fragrances), and the Cream Room, where the packaging team hand-labels each bottle or pump. For €35, you can create your perfume in a few basic steps at Le Bar des Fragrances.