Fodor's Expert Review Ribouldingue

Find offal off-putting? Off-cuts take pride of place on the prix-fixe menu (€28 at lunch, €34 at dinner), but don't let that stop you from trying this bistro near the ancient St-Julien-le-Pauvre church. You can avoid odd animal bits completely, if you must, and still have an excellent meal—opt for dishes like marinated salmon or veal rib with fingerling potatoes—or go out on a limb with the tétine de vache (thin breaded and fried slices of cow's udder) and groin de cochon (the tip of a pig's snout). This adventurous menu is the brainchild of Nadège Varigny, daughter of a Lyonnais butcher (quel surprise). Veal kidney with potato gratin is a house classic, and there are always three fish dishes. Don't miss the unusual desserts, like tangy ewe's-milk ice cream.