4 Best Sights in Dartmouth, The West Country

A rewarding way to experience the River Dart is to join a cruise from Dartmouth's quay to visit Greenway, the 16th-century riverside home of the Gilbert family (Sir Humphrey Gilbert claimed Newfoundland on behalf of Elizabeth I), more famous today for its association with the crime writer Agatha Christie. Mrs. Mallowan (Christie's married name) made it her holiday home beginning in 1938, and the house displays collections of archaeological finds, china, and silver. The gorgeous gardens are thickly planted with magnolias, camellias, and rare shrubs and are richly endowed with panoramic views. Beware, however, that the grounds are steeply laid out, and those arriving by boat face a daunting uphill climb. Allow three hours to see everything; in busy periods, timed tickets for the house are given on arrival. Parking spaces here are restricted and must be booked in advance. Alternatively, ask at the tourist office about walking and cycling routes to reach the house, as well as about the bus service from Greenway Halt (a stop on the Dartmouth Steam Railway). A round-trip ticket between Dartmouth and Greenway costs £13.50 on the Greenway Ferry ( www.greenwayferry.co.uk).

Located on Start Bay, this privately managed beach sits at the edge of an extraordinary natural setting of meadows and forest. It's favored for its clear water and long, wide stretch of shingle. Popular with families, the beach is big enough that you can always find a quiet stretch. Take A379 south of Dartmouth and look for signs. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (fee); showers, toilets; water sports. Best for: swimming.

Dating from the 14th century, this well-preserved fortification a mile downriver was once equipped with a massive chain attached to the Dart's opposite bank to protect the town from sea raiders. Five hundred years later it was the site of a gun battery, dramatically illustrated in a sound and light display. It's a pleasant riverside walk from Dartmouth's center, or take one of the frequent boats leaving from Dartmouth's quay.

These lovingly restored trains chug along on tracks beside the River Dart between Paignton and Kingswear (across the river from Dartmouth). You can combine a train ride with a river excursion between Dartmouth and Totnes and a bus between Totnes and Paignton or Torquay on a Round Robin ticket (£39.50). Consult the website for the sporadic winter timetable.