Borrowdale Fells
These steep fells rise up dramatically behind Seatoller. Get out and walk whenever inspiration strikes. Trails are well signposted, or you can pick up maps and any gear in Keswick.
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These steep fells rise up dramatically behind Seatoller. Get out and walk whenever inspiration strikes. Trails are well signposted, or you can pick up maps and any gear in Keswick.
One of the region's best galleries displays and sells outstanding modern and contemporary British works, many by Cumbrian artists. There's a wonderful permanent collection, and changing exhibitions focus on paintings, sculpture, glass, ceramics, and jewelry.
A Neolithic monument about 100 feet in diameter, this stone circle was built around 3,000 years ago on a hill overlooking St. John's Vale. The brooding northern peaks of Skiddaw and Blencathra loom to the north, and there are views of Helvellyn to the south. The 38 stones aren't large, but the site makes them particularly impressive. Wordsworth described them as "a dismal cirque of Druid stones upon a forlorn moor." The site, always open to visitors, is 4 miles east of Keswick. There's usually space for cars to park beside the road that leads along the northern edge of the site: head up Eleventrees off Penrith Road at the eastern edge of Keswick.
A spectacular 65-foot waterfall pounds under a stone bridge and through a wooded ravine to feed into Ullswater. From the parking lot it's a 10-minute walk to the falls, with more serious walks on Gowbarrow Fell and to the village of Dockray beyond. A 1¼-mile footpath allows visitors to leave their cars at Glencoyne Bay, to the south, and walk through a deer park. Bring sturdy shoes, especially in wet or icy weather, when the paths can be treacherous.
Just above Aira Force in the woods of Gowbarrow Park is the spot where, in 1802, William Wordsworth's sister, Dorothy, observed daffodils that, as she wrote, "tossed and reeled and danced and seemed as if they verily laughed with the wind that blew upon them." Two years later, Wordsworth transformed his sister's words into the famous poem "I Wandered Lonely as a Cloud." Today national park wardens patrol Gowbarrow Park in season to prevent people from picking the few remaining daffodils.
This tiny 17th-century stone building, once an apple store, perches on an arched stone bridge spanning Stone Beck. It may have been built here to avoid land tax. The National Trust cares for this much-photographed building. There are guided tours Thursday at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm.
Founded in 1190, the huge Cartmel Priory survived the dissolution of the monasteries in the 16th century because it was also the village church. Four monks and 10 villagers were hanged, however. The 25 wooden misericords are from 1440 and include a carved depiction of the Green Man, with a face made of leaves. Guided tours usually take place every Wednesday from April to October at 11 am and 2 pm.
The lake came to prominence in the 1930s when Arthur Ransome made it the setting for Swallows and Amazons, one of a series of beloved novels about a group of children and their adventures. The lake is about 5 miles long, a tempting stretch that drew Donald Campbell here in 1959 to set a water-speed record of 260 mph. He was killed when trying to beat it in 1967. His body and the wreckage of Bluebird K7 were retrieved from the lake in 2001. Campbell is buried in St. Andrew's church in Coniston, and a stone memorial on the village green commemorates him.
To understand why Derwentwater is considered one of England's finest lakes, take a short walk from Keswick's town center to the lakeshore and past the jetty, and follow the Friar's Crag path, about a 15-minute level walk from the center. This pine-tree-fringed peninsula is a favorite vantage point, with its view of the lake, the ring of mountains, and many tiny islands. Ahead, crags line the Jaws of Borrowdale and overhang a mountain ravine—a scene that looks as if it emerged from a Romantic painting.
One famous beauty spot linked with Wordsworth is Dora's Field, below Rydal Mount next to the church of St. Mary's (where you can still see the poet's pew). In spring, the field is awash in yellow daffodils, first planted by William Wordsworth and his wife, Mary, in memory of their beloved daughter Dora, who died in 1847.
West of Ullswater's southern end, the brooding presence of Helvellyn (3,118 feet), one of the Lake District's most formidable mountains and England's third highest, recalls the region's fundamental character. It's an arduous climb to the top, especially via the challenging ridge known as Striding Edge, and the ascent shouldn't be attempted in poor weather or by inexperienced hikers. Signposted paths to the peak run from the road between Glenridding and Patterdale and pass by Red Tarn, which is the highest small mountain lake in the region at 2,356 feet.
Beyond Seatoller, B5289 turns westward through Honister Pass (1,176 feet) and Buttermere Fell. Boulders line the road, which is one of the most dramatic in the region. The road sweeps down from the pass to the village of Buttermere, sandwiched between its namesake lake and Crummock Water at the foot of high, craggy fells. Beyond the pass, at the edge of Buttermere village, Syke Farm Tea Room sells fantastic local ice cream. Both Buttermere and Crummock Water have excellent walking options, away from many of the crowds farther east. Newlands Pass is an equally spectacular route back to Keswick via the pastoral Newlands Valley.
Two miles north of Coniston on the A593, just past Beatrix Potter's beautifully situated Yew Tree Farm, is a small National Trust parking lot that leads to paths through oak woods beside the tumbling stream of Tom Gill to Tarn Hows, a celebrated Lake District beauty spot. This man-made site was created when the gill was dammed in the mid-19th century. The paths are steep in places, but two waterfalls make it well worth the effort. Walking the circular route takes two to three hours.
The handsome 19th-century Moot Hall, with its one-handed clock, has served as both the town hall and the local prison. Now it houses an information center for the region. It's also the place to get fishing permits for Derwentwater and Bassenthwaite.
To escape the traffic and have a view of Windermere, set out on foot and follow the signs to the left of the Windermere Hotel to Orrest Head. The shady, uphill path winds through Elleray Wood, and after a 20-minute hike you arrive at a rocky little summit (784 feet) with a panoramic view that encompasses the Yorkshire fells, Morecambe Bay, and the Troutbeck Valley.
In a 16th-century building that served as a school from 1670 to the 1970s, this museum contains Stone Age axe heads, interesting fossils and minerals, and an informative film about Cumbria's Neolithic history. The Penrith Tourist Information Centre is here, too.
The evocative remains of this 15th-century redbrick castle stand high above a steep, now-dry moat. Home of the maligned Richard, Duke of Gloucester (later Richard III), who was responsible for keeping peace along the border, it was one of England's first lines of defense against the Scots. By the Civil War, the castle was in ruins, and the townsfolk used some of the fallen stones to build their houses. The ruins stand in a park, across from the town's train station.
Named for the Celtic kingdom of Cumbria, Rheged is a modern, grass-covered multipurpose cultural center with a gallery that hosts rotating art and photography exhibits, as well as a massive, large-screen cinema that often live streams theatrical performances and concerts as well as new releases. Shops showcase Cumbrian food, drink, and crafts, and three different cafés offer drinks and light meals. Rheged is 2 miles southwest of Penrith and 1 mile west of Junction 40 on the M6.
England's highest mountain at 3,210 feet, Scafell (pronounced scar-fell) Pike is visible from Seatoller. One route up the mountain, for experienced walkers, is from the hamlet of Seathwaite, a mile south of Seatoller.
William Wordsworth, his wife Mary, his sister Dorothy, and four of the Wordsworths' children are buried in the churchyard of this historical church with a curious split interior on the River Rothay. The poet planted eight of the yew trees here, including the one under which he was interred. As you leave the churchyard, stop at the Gingerbread Shop, in a tiny cottage, for a special local treat.