2 Best Bars in Ghent, Ghent and the Leie

Brewer Annick de Splenter's prolific brewpub has lost none of its ability to surprise. Based in an old galley, relics of the building's former life remain, with various cow statues proliferating around the bar. Gruut's beers are made to a medieval recipe, using herbs, not hops; the result is a more subtle, lighter-tasting brew than the usual Belgian offering. Tastings (€15) can be arranged; you can even add a boat trip to your visit (€33). If you have the time, spare some for its "beeralchemy" sessions (€28) and the chance to brew your own herb beer to take home; it's easily done in an afternoon and the session includes tastings.

It's a bit of a distance from the center of town, but well worth the excursion. This microbrewery and taproom is the largest and most experimental in Ghent, with 30 beers on tap. Set in the old Dok Noord complex, around 10 to 15 are brewed on-site, and many are only ever made once. The choice is almost overwhelming. Hour-long brewery tours and tastings (€18) can be booked in advance, and the building also has independent street-food stalls inside, with barbecue joint RØK particularly recommended.