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Vienna has tried hard to shed its image of a town locked in the 19th century, and nowhere is that more evident than in the kitchens of the top-notch Austrian chefs who dominate the culinary scene here. They have turned dining from a mittel-europäisch sloshfest of Schweinsbraten, Knödeln, and Kraut (pork, dumplings, and cabbage), into an exquisite feast of international flavors.
No one denies that such courtly delights as Tafelspitz—the blush-pink boiled beef famed as Emperor Franz Josef's favorite dish—is delicious, but these traditional carb-loaded meals tend to leave you stuck to your seat like a suction cup.
The dining scene of today's Vienna has transformed itself, thanks in part to a new generation of chefs, such as Heinz Reitbauer Jr. and celebrity-chef Christian Petz, who've worked hard to establish an international brand of Viennese cooking known as Neue Wiener Küche (New Vienna cuisine). They have stepped onto the stage, front and center, to create signature dishes, such as fish soup with red curry, which have rocketed to fame; they have fan clubs, host television shows, and publish top-selling cookbooks, such as Neue Cuisine: The Elegant Tastes of Vienna; there are star Austrian chefs the way there are in New York and Hollywood, and these chefs want to delight an audience hungry for change.
Schmaltzy schnitzels have been replaced by prized Styrian beef—organic meat from local, farm-raised cattle—while soggy Nockerl (small dumplings) are traded in for seasonal delights like Carinthian asparagus, Styrian wild garlic, or the zingy taste of common garden stinging nettle. Wisely, Vienna has also warmly welcomed into its kitchens chefs from around the world, who give exotic twists to old favorites.
When you're at the Prater, try to eat at Schweizerhaus, which has been serving frothy mugs of beer, roast chicken, and Stelze (a huge hunk of crispy roast pork on the bone) for more than 100 years. The informal setting, with wood-plank tables indoors or in the garden in summer, adds to the fun.
Long known as a reliable haunt for breads and strudels, Ströck has multiple locations throughout the city. Open for evening and weekend meals, the eateries serve only organic, locally grown goods. For a light dessert, try the vegan chocolate-dipped cherries with brown sugar. Breakfast and lunch are served only on weekends.
Hot on the trail of the "Best Sausage" designation, the legendary Würstelstand am Hohen Markt serves the best Bürenwurst and American-style hot dogs. As with most of the Würstelstands, or "Imbiss" kiosks, there is a surprising amount of food on offer. Cheese-filled sausages (Käsekrainer) served with mustard and freshly-grated horseradish and a slice of bread is a popular local choice, as is a Bosna, a bratwurst with onions and a mustard-ketchup concoction served on a roll. It's open until the wee hours, and you can also pick up a beer, wine, or even a bottle of champagne.
Between Rotenturmstrasse and Bäckerstrasse, this place dishes up 25 or more flavors of smooth, Italian-style gelato, including mango, caramel, and chocolate chip, and has frozen yogurt and vegan ice cream, too.
In a delightful tree-shaded courtyard, this Biergarten has quickly become immensely popular. Zattl is the owner and he loves his beer, and the secret to his success is to have huge tanks of Bohemia's best brew, unpasteurized Pilsner Urquell, delivered to the cellar to be tapped directly into the glass. Good local dishes like veal goulash and grilled chicken are inexpensive and well prepared. Stick to the garden for a quiet break, unless you prefer the pub-like atmosphere inside.
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