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High-class resorts aren't limited exclusively to San Juan and the eastern coast; on the north coast, travelers who aren't constrained by a budget will find Dorado, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve sitting on 1,400 acres, many of them prime beachfront. But for the most part, paradores and other modest lodgings are the norm in the small towns, especially in the Cordillera. In this part of the island there are seldom more than two or three options in any given town. Sometimes there's one hotel—take it or leave it. You'd better take it, especially if you're traveling on a weekend. The best lodgings, rustic retreats set beside a river or on acres of lush forest, are often booked solid. Make sure to call ahead, as it's a long way between towns.
Simple, clean, bright, affordable: this small property in the mountains just northwest of Aibonito in Barranquitas ticks a lot of boxes. Enjoy views of the verdant scenery that surrounds it from your patio or balcony, a feature of every room. Larger groups can also rent a separate house on the grounds.
This small hotel in Adjuntas offers a quiet retreat from the busy beach towns and historic town centers. Reservations must be made via phone, and drop-ins are often accepted. Breakfast can be requested, and lunch is available as a buffet, or can be taken up to the rooms.
Built on the grounds of a coffee plantation, this 19th-century inn is surrounded on all sides by mountain peaks. Several of the clapboard-walled rooms in the red-roofed manor house have private balconies overlooking lush gardens and a spring-fed pool—the nicest are rooms 4 and 5 facing the courtyard directly. There are plenty of small parlors where you can relax with a drink from the bar. Breakfast and dinner are included in the room rates. The dining area, which meanders through three different rooms, serves criollo fare like chicken with rice and beans. Nonguests are welcome for dinner, too. One nearby hiking trail leads to Cerro de Punta, about a 2½-hour climb.
If you're looking for a natural setting in which to relax and forget about the stress of city life, look no further than these cabinlike villas amid 14 lush acres of rolling hills. Each villa sleeps four to eight guests and has a kitchen, dining area, TV, queen-size bed, futon, and hammock for relaxing on the porch. There are plenty of family-friendly activities, like tennis, volleyball, basketball, and lawn bowling, as well as swimming pools, billiard tables, and even a farm. Guests can go horseback-riding along backcountry trails or kayak in the nearby lake. The staff can also arrange private tours to waterfalls and freshwater pools just 10 minutes away by car. Though far from a five-star property, this is the place to go for an authentic Puerto Rican experience.
