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In cosmopolitan San Juan, European, Asian, Middle Eastern, and chic fusion eateries vie for your attention, with family-owned restaurants specializing in seafood or comida criolla (creole cooking, or local Puerto Rican food). U.S. chains such as McDonald's and Subway compete with chains like Pollo Tropical and El Mesón, which specialize in local cuisine. Many of the most innovative chefs here have restaurants in the city's large hotels, but don't be shy about venturing into stand-alone establishments—many concentrated in Condado and along Calles Fortaleza and San Sebastián in Old San Juan. Old San Juan is also home to a number of notable new restaurants and cafés, offering more artisanal-style cuisine—crop-to-cup coffee, rustic homemade pizzas, and creative vegetarian food—at affordable prices. There’s a radiant pride in what the local land can provide, and these enthusiastic young restaurateurs are redefining what Puerto Rican food is, bite by tasty bite.
The dress code varies greatly from place to place, although a restaurant's price category can be taken as a good indication. For less expensive places anything but beachwear is fine; ritzier spots will expect collared shirts and long pants for men ("jacket and tie" requirements are rare) and chic attire for women. When in doubt, do as the Puerto Ricans often do and dress up.
For breakfast outside of your hotel, cafés or panaderías (local bakeries) are your best bets. It's rare for such establishments to close between breakfast and lunch; it's slightly more common for restaurants to close between lunch and dinner. Although some places don't accept reservations, it's always a good idea to make them for dinner whenever possible. This is especially true during the busy season from November through April and on weekends at any time of the year.
This oceanfront lounge-style beach bar is a great place to stop for drinks and Puerto Rican tapas-style quick bites. Completely outdoors, stay a while and enjoy the view of Condado Beach while ordering from the extensive cocktail menu and excellent snacks.
Tucked away on the second floor of the historic El Convento Hotel, Santísmo is a dreamy and romantic dining destination. A stone oven is used to cook many of the dishes, including the catch of the day. All dining is alfresco on two terraces overlooking the hotel's striking arches. It's a great spot for a date night.
Chef Ramon Cruz is serving traditional Puerto Rican food with a modern twist. This lively restaurant, located in Condado Ocean Club, has a clean, modern feel that's perfect for date nights, girls' night out, or any special occasion calling for a lively place to socialize over wine and an extensive menu. The inside has bright decor along with an outdoor patio with a gorgeous view of Condado beach.
The service at this charming, French-inspired café-restaurant on a quiet cobblestone corner is friendly, and the interior is inviting, with rustic, white wooden tables and benches. The sandwiches, entrée salads, quiches, pita pizzas, and other menu items are made with fresh ingredients. Indeed, the lighter fare here might be a welcome respite from the city's delicious but often heavy comida criolla. Start with an agua fresca, a mildly sweet fruit water that revives you quickly, even on the hottest of days. Save room for the just-baked cakes beckoning from glass stands on the counter. Weekend brunch is popular, so come early, or stop by later in the evening for crepes and wine. Check out the second-floor cocktail bar or the rooftop wine bar, Al Fresco.
The stuffed avocado bowls served at this small eatery, run by brothers Joel and Javier Pierluisi, make it a great spot for a quick, healthy bite. Build your own, or choose from signature options like chipotle chicken with cilantro cream, spicy salmon with masago and seaweed salad, or pulled pork with mamposteao rice. Vegan and vegetarian options are available.
Chef Rafael Ubior's time in Lima working under Peru's esteemed Gastón Acurio led him to open his restaurant fusing Peruvian and Japanese cuisines. Start with the tiradito (raw fish) Nikkei or any of the ceviches; then order anything that's on special that day, as well as a pisco sour. Indoor and outdoor dining is available, and reservations are recommended.
If you want Spanish-style seafood dishes, head to this restaurant, one of a dozen that surround the Plaza del Mercado. The chillo entero frito (fried whole red snapper) and camarones al ajillo (shrimp with garlic) are tasty, but the standout is the arroz con calamari: this dramatic, inky-black rice dish will elicit "oohs" and "aahs" from nearby diners when it arrives at your table. If you come in the evening, it might be cool enough to dine at one of the handful of tables on the square; if not, settle for one of the green polka-dot tables in the dining room.
An Italian restaurant with a Puerto Rican flair, Tavola features homemade cuisine and is a favorite for pasta lovers. The gnocchi and mushroom tortellini are popular on the menu, but the main attraction is the hidden speakeasy inside, Vendetta. You enter through what looks like a convenience store refrigerator into a dark room with craft cocktails and an exclusive lounge ambience.
Chef Raúl Correa's newest venture pays tribute to Israeli and Mediterranean cuisines. Dishes are meant to be shared at this casual neighborhood restaurant that's walking distance from the beach. Labneh, hummus, lamb kebab, homemade pita bread can all be found on this fresh, vegetable-forward menu.
The three "B's" in this bright-yellow restaurant's name stand for bueno, bonito, y barato, a common saying that means "good, pretty, and affordable." Tasty and inexpensive—no wonder it's such a hit with everyone from beachgoers to artists to young professionals. Order at the window, and sit at one of the picnic-style tables on the wooden deck. The grouper ceviche is a favorite dish, as is the beef slider on a sweet Hawaiian bun with tamarind and coffee barbecue sauce. A bar and coffee shop are also on-site. Come back at night for cocktails; it's a fun place to mingle with locals.
Popular for decades with everyone from local politicians and families to sunburned tourists who just dragged themselves off the beach, the bustling Via Appia is a no-frills restaurant known for serving simple Italian dishes. During lunch, however, they ladle out some delicious comida criolla, with specials changing daily. The outdoor seating area looks out on Condado's busy Avenida Ashford, which makes for good people-watching. The wine bar next door has a bit more ambience.
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