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In cosmopolitan San Juan, European, Asian, Middle Eastern, and chic fusion eateries vie for your attention, with family-owned restaurants specializing in seafood or comida criolla (creole cooking, or local Puerto Rican food). U.S. chains such as McDonald's and Subway compete with chains like Pollo Tropical and El Mesón, which specialize in local cuisine. Many of the most innovative chefs here have restaurants in the city's large hotels, but don't be shy about venturing into stand-alone establishments—many concentrated in Condado and along Calles Fortaleza and San Sebastián in Old San Juan. Old San Juan is also home to a number of notable new restaurants and cafés, offering more artisanal-style cuisine—crop-to-cup coffee, rustic homemade pizzas, and creative vegetarian food—at affordable prices. There’s a radiant pride in what the local land can provide, and these enthusiastic young restaurateurs are redefining what Puerto Rican food is, bite by tasty bite.
The dress code varies greatly from place to place, although a restaurant's price category can be taken as a good indication. For less expensive places anything but beachwear is fine; ritzier spots will expect collared shirts and long pants for men ("jacket and tie" requirements are rare) and chic attire for women. When in doubt, do as the Puerto Ricans often do and dress up.
For breakfast outside of your hotel, cafés or panaderías (local bakeries) are your best bets. It's rare for such establishments to close between breakfast and lunch; it's slightly more common for restaurants to close between lunch and dinner. Although some places don't accept reservations, it's always a good idea to make them for dinner whenever possible. This is especially true during the busy season from November through April and on weekends at any time of the year.
It's hard to resist the heaping mountains of gelato available in this aesthetically pleasing shop, open late. Don't worry, the line moves quickly. All the gelato is made fresh in store, served with assorted toppings, and garnished with a branded wafer cookie. Flavors range from pavlova and mixed berries to coquito, and there are options with no sugar added.
Located at the end of Calle Loíza, this family-run restaurant specializes in Roman dishes. The open kitchen turns out dishes like spaghetti carbonara, penne puttanesca, and bucatini all'amatriciana.
This cozy spot does a wonderful job with traditional Italian dishes of the kind that your nonna (grandmother) might have made. The ravioli di anatra, filled with braised duck and pear in a port-wine reduction and topped with truffle butter, is great. There is also a nice selection of specialty pizzas made with Caputo flour from Naples.
Inside a gas station is the last place you'd expect to find an Italian restaurant in San Juan, but don't let that deter you. This is one of the best places for pizza on the island, cooked in an 800-degree brick oven. They also serve other dinner entrees and have a wine list to pair with your meal. Seating is limited so reservations are recommended.
An Italian restaurant with a Puerto Rican flair, Tavola features homemade cuisine and is a favorite for pasta lovers. The gnocchi and mushroom tortellini are popular on the menu, but the main attraction is the hidden speakeasy inside, Vendetta. You enter through what looks like a convenience store refrigerator into a dark room with craft cocktails and an exclusive lounge ambience.
Popular for decades with everyone from local politicians and families to sunburned tourists who just dragged themselves off the beach, the bustling Via Appia is a no-frills restaurant known for serving simple Italian dishes. During lunch, however, they ladle out some delicious comida criolla, with specials changing daily. The outdoor seating area looks out on Condado's busy Avenida Ashford, which makes for good people-watching. The wine bar next door has a bit more ambience.
