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In cosmopolitan San Juan, European, Asian, Middle Eastern, and chic fusion eateries vie for your attention, with family-owned restaurants specializing in seafood or comida criolla (creole cooking, or local Puerto Rican food). U.S. chains such as McDonald's and Subway compete with chains like Pollo Tropical and El Mesón, which specialize in local cuisine. Many of the most innovative chefs here have restaurants in the city's large hotels, but don't be shy about venturing into stand-alone establishments—many concentrated in Condado and along Calles Fortaleza and San Sebastián in Old San Juan. Old San Juan is also home to a number of notable new restaurants and cafés, offering more artisanal-style cuisine—crop-to-cup coffee, rustic homemade pizzas, and creative vegetarian food—at affordable prices. There’s a radiant pride in what the local land can provide, and these enthusiastic young restaurateurs are redefining what Puerto Rican food is, bite by tasty bite.
The dress code varies greatly from place to place, although a restaurant's price category can be taken as a good indication. For less expensive places anything but beachwear is fine; ritzier spots will expect collared shirts and long pants for men ("jacket and tie" requirements are rare) and chic attire for women. When in doubt, do as the Puerto Ricans often do and dress up.
For breakfast outside of your hotel, cafés or panaderías (local bakeries) are your best bets. It's rare for such establishments to close between breakfast and lunch; it's slightly more common for restaurants to close between lunch and dinner. Although some places don't accept reservations, it's always a good idea to make them for dinner whenever possible. This is especially true during the busy season from November through April and on weekends at any time of the year.
Celebrity-chef Mario Pagan dazzles diners—among them businesspeople trying to impress their counterparts—with his creative, modern Puerto Rican fare and a setting that's reminiscent of a sleek, midtown-Manhattan restaurant. An attentive, professional waitstaff serves dishes like Gouda croquetas with sweet papaya, Chilean sea bass with yuca-truffled mousse, and lamb-shoulder confit.
Across the street from a string of major hotels, this casual restaurant doesn't look like much from the outside, but inside it's decorated in warm, tropical colors. The kitchen turns out delicious versions of Cuban and Puerto Rican favorites at reasonable prices. Tasty options include Cornish game hen stuffed with congrí, a mixture of black beans and rice; perfectly seasoned and tender beef churrasco; and fried chickpeas with ham and chorizo. The crowd is a pleasant mix of tourists and locals, families and groups of friends enjoying a relaxed evening out. Throughout the restaurant, local art hangs on the walls, and you can shop from your table if you find a painting you like. The restaurant has several branches around the island, most in the metro area.
The three "B's" in this bright-yellow restaurant's name stand for bueno, bonito, y barato, a common saying that means "good, pretty, and affordable." Tasty and inexpensive—no wonder it's such a hit with everyone from beachgoers to artists to young professionals. Order at the window, and sit at one of the picnic-style tables on the wooden deck. The grouper ceviche is a favorite dish, as is the beef slider on a sweet Hawaiian bun with tamarind and coffee barbecue sauce. A bar and coffee shop are also on-site. Come back at night for cocktails; it's a fun place to mingle with locals.
