The water's depth is seldom more than 20 feet here. Grass patches and an occasional coral head or flat coral patch dot the light-sand bottom. You might spot the odd turtle, and if you care to jump over the boat's side with a mask, you might also pick up a conch or two in the grass. Especially good snorkeling and bonefishing, and peaceful anchorages, can be found on the lee shores of the Hoffmans and Little Harbour cays. When it's open, Flo's Conch Bar, at the southern end of Little Harbour Cay, serves fresh conch prepared every way you can imagine.

Great Harbour Cay Marina. In the upper Berry Islands, the full-service Great Harbour Cay Marina has 65 slips for yachts up to 150 feet. Thanks to a new manager and friendly staff, it has been upgraded and has lost the downcast look of former years. Accessed through an 80-foot-wide channel from the west, the marina is loved by yachties because it has almost zero motion even in rough weather: it's a top hurricane hole. They all love the sleepy, Out Island feel and the safe, crime-free island with its gorgeous 6-mile beach. Nevertheless, there's lots to do here: the Property Owners Association organizes petanque in the street with free rum punch on Wednesday evenings; jewelry-craft lessons, cards, and backgammon at Rocky Hill Bar & Grill (where there's a pool); and yoga, exercise classes, and beach volleyball at The Beach Club. You can even play nine holes of golf on the rather weedy course. Fuel is at a separate dock west of the marina. Great Harbour Cay. 242/367–8005; 242/451--0936;

Happy People. At Great Harbour Cay Marina, Elon Rolle, located in a small convenience store on the dock, hires for the day, half day, or hour, an unsinkable 20-foot Boston Outrage with 200HP for $200 a day plus gas (using about $150 for 30 gallons for a day). Snorkeling, spear, and fishing gear are extra, so bring your own. It also comes with VHF radio. If you don't know these waters, it's wise to study a map ($27 from Happy People's shop). If you're a boater, this will be a super vacation highlight, but come prepared with food, water, ice, sunscreen, shade, and gear. Great Harbour Cay Marina, Great Harbour Cay. 242/367–8117; 242/367--8761.

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