Known for its vibrant and independent spirit, Hongdae is the neighborhood built around Hongik University, the nation’s top arts university. Snapshots of this corner of Seoul often show buskers and live K-pop performers, colorful street murals, and streets packed with partying college students. It caters to young people so much that you might have to show identification at some clubs to verify you’re under 33 years of age.
Hongdae’s age demographic makes its trends all the more susceptible to change, and only a few venues survive beyond the five-year mark. The neighborhood is as fleeting, and as beautiful, as youth itself—begging you to enjoy it while you can. However, there is something for everybody regardless of age. Yes, on weekend nights, the best-known Hongdae streets are full of clubs pumping out music until the wee hours of the morning. But the true gems of the neighborhood are arguably the quieter, overlooked venues with decades of history or local favorites tucked away from the Hongdae center.
If you’re fortunate enough to stay in Hongdae for a few days or more, try to see both sides of the coin. Have the very quintessential Hongdae experience by staying up late and feeling the energy of the crowds on a Saturday night. Get your fill of marinated beef ribs at Korean barbecue restaurant, Cheolkil WangGalbissal. Sit for a while at Hongik Children’s Park, a playground that masquerades as a party platform by night on weekends, or dip into one of the many clubs in the area for a bit of dancing. Belt out some tunes under the disco lights at Luxury Su Noraebang, a neighborhood institution for Korean-style karaoke, and before you call it a night, indulge in a savory, budget-friendly snack of tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes) at a pocha (tented stall of street food and alcohol) nearby.
In a neighborhood as transient as Hongdae, pay attention to the bars and cafes that have been around a while. Critics who complain that the neighborhood’s become too commercial still come around to listen to Korean rock music from the 1970s and 1980s at retro bar Gochang Jeongol and meet like-minded friends at Yri Cafe, a long-time gathering place for creatives. Don’t forget to grab a copy of Street H, a free, local zine devoted to Hongdae, while here.
It’s likely that you will also want to visit the neighborhoods bordering the immediate university area. Increasing rent prices as well as the opening of the Gyeongui Line Forest Park to its east and Mangwon Market to its north have revitalized Yeonnam-dong and Mangwon-dong respectively. Both have become hotbeds of small bookshops, cozy cafes, and trendy restaurants worthy of attention.
