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Welcome to Singapore, one of the world’s great food destinations, where eating—and eating well—is a time-honored national pastime.
Here you can splurge on haute cuisine from Michelin-starred chefs in some of the best fine-dining restaurants in Asia, or dig into fragrant bowls oflaksa (a spicy noodle soup) and heaping plates of char kway teow (stir-fried rice noodle strips) at one of the island’s famous hawker centers. The wide range of food and restaurants is what brings many travelers to Singapore in the first place, and few leave disappointed. In most cities the plan of attack is to map out must-see sights to pack in as much as possible; in Singapore it's often more about maximizing your meals and eating until it hurts—and then trying to fit in some more.
You hardly ever have to go far to find one of Singapore’s casual eating houses and hawker centers, which are fun, budget-friendly places to taste as many local specialties as your stomach can handle. The city-state’s indomitable megamalls are loaded with mid-range restaurants, sprawling food courts, and snack stands. Many of the island’s more upscale restaurants are tucked away in posh hotels, and many of the newer and trendier places are inside restored Chinese shophouses and once-abandoned colonial buildings. Note that upscale restaurants often close in the afternoon between lunch and dinner—from 2:30 to 6:30, for instance.
Of the Tekka Market's many tantalizing eateries, this spot, in business since the 1950s, comes highly recommended—as evidenced by lines that are particularly long at lunchtime. It's worth the wait, though, to enjoy a comfort meal of aromatic biryani rice combined with fork-tender chicken or mutton chunks, and all the orders come with a side of vegetable dhal and pickled vegetables.
This casual, cafeteria-style, Indian restaurant is one of the best (and busiest) of its kind in Little India. Standout dishes include the signature fish-head curry, as well as the fish tikka, mutton mysore, and prawn masala, but choose whatever sounds good, and you'll still do well. Everything is served on large banana leaves; cracker-like papadam and two scoops of the day's vegetables come with every meal. Spice levels vary, but if the heat catches up with you, ask for curd (traditional yogurt) or raita (yogurt with cucumber and seasonings) to help cool things down. Fun fact: Founder/owner Mr Chellappan was so inspired by the Apollo 11 mission, he named the restaurant after it!
Give into the heady aromas wafting out of this Indian-influenced barbecue joint, and you won’t regret it. Although a meal here is pricier than those at its more casual neighbors, the cost difference is easily justified by the intense, mouthwatering flavors and creative menu. The show stealer is the juicy suckling pig biryani, its pork barbecued to a perfect char. The meat platters (for one or two diners) offers a taste of their best hits (beef brisket, masala pork ribs, spice-crusted lamb chops).
Because of its airy, colonial edifice with wooden-louvered windows and overhead fans, Samy's Curry has a casual canteen feel that is distinct from the more upscale ambience typical of many Dempsey Hill eateries. Although the wait staff can be a little brisk, the restaurant remains a firm favorite among the locals thanks to the flavorful and filling north and south Indian dishes on offer at very affordable prices. You'll also need to prepare for the parade of zesty curries and fragrant rices, as well as the sundry Indian condiments that shuffling waiters scoop out of small buckets and onto your awaiting banana leaf—a whether-you-like-it-or-not treat that is added onto your bill at the end for a small charge.
In operation since 1947, this is one of Little India's best-known stops for northern and southern Indian vegetarian cuisine. Most plates come with curries, rice, dhal, condiments, Indian breads, or special sauces; for dessert there's a well-stocked counter of sweets. Busy days tend to be very busy, so plan on sharing a table in the downstairs dining room; upstairs it's slightly quieter and more spacious.
This no-frills vegetarian restaurant is a long-running local favorite and one of the better south Indian restaurants in vibrant Little India. Opt for the thali if you're hungry: it's a large platter of dosai (pancakes) with three spiced vegetables, curd, dhal, rasam (hot and sour soup), papadam, and Indian-style condiments. Also recommended are the paper dosai, a thin, crispy rice flour crepe in an enormous roll served with two spicy coconut chutneys and rasam. Make sure you order a cup of their freshly brewed masala tea with hand pulled froth.
You'll be spoiled for choice when it comes to Indian food on Race Course Road, but this restaurant established in 1969), along with the similarly popular Banana Leaf Apolo a few blocks down, is widely considered the best of the lot. There's a full range of North and South Indian options here, but the fish-head curry with okra and pineapple, the milagu kozhi varuval (chicken with pepper and coriander seeds), and the masala prawns are some of the standouts. The contemporary space is decorated with mosaic tiles, polished black flooring, and tables that surround a central open kitchen. The chef uses no food coloring and practices eco-friendly dining policies.
Teak tables, gold-plated chairs, Indian artifacts, and live Nepalese music combine for a regal experience at this lavish North Indian restaurant, where each dish is categorized as mild, spicy, or very spicy (though the chef can turn the heat up or down based on your preference). You can't go wrong with any of the biryani (rice casserole) or tandoori meals, and the well-chosen wine list, which includes labels from many of the world's top wine-producing regions, runs surprisingly deep.
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