The Best Hotel in Miyajima, Western Honshu

This charming hillside ryokan has been around for more than a century, and it owes its longevity to its having the best views on the island. Every room is blessed with a panorama of the famous gate, the shrine, and the pagodas—and all are backed by the sea, lush trees, or mountains. The friendly English-speaking owners provide excellent service and food, though the Western-style dining area and hotel's concrete exterior detract from the experience somewhat. Getting to the quiet east side of the bay requires a bit of a stroll—or ask the tourist office to arrange a van to pick you up. A private (no extra charge) outdoor bath on a sheltered overhanging corner has great views, so don't forget to reserve your 30-minute slot of pure Zen when you check in. Down in the basement there are more baths, open 24 hours.