2 Best Hotels in Miyajima, Western Honshu

For traditional elegance, it's easy to like this venerable Japanese inn. It's the oldest and most famous lodging on the island, and everyone important has stayed here. The rooms in the wheelchair-accessible newer wing are nice enough, but the older rooms have more character. Two quaint cottages on the grounds have suites decorated with antiques. Prices vary widely according to the size of your room, the view, and the kaiseki dinner you select, so be sure to get it all ironed out when you make reservations. Breakfast and dinner are usually included in the rates and can be made Western-style. Nonguests can also enjoy the food.

This charming hillside ryokan has been around for more than a century, and it owes its longevity to its having the best views on the island. Every room is blessed with a panorama of the famous gate, the shrine, and the pagodas—and all are backed by the sea, lush trees, or mountains. The friendly English-speaking owners provide excellent service and food, though the Western-style dining area and hotel's concrete exterior detract from the experience somewhat. Getting to the quiet east side of the bay requires a bit of a stroll—or ask the tourist office to arrange a van to pick you up. A private (no extra charge) outdoor bath on a sheltered overhanging corner has great views, so don't forget to reserve your 30-minute slot of pure Zen when you check in. Down in the basement there are more baths, open 24 hours.