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Tokyo is undoubtedly one of the most exciting dining cities in the world. Seasonal ingredients reign supreme here, and there's an emphasis on freshness—not surprising given raw seafood is the cornerstone of sushi. And though Tokyoites still stubbornly resist foreign concepts in many fields, the locals have embraced outside culinary styles with gusto.
While newer restaurants targeting younger diners strive for authenticity in everything from New York–style bagels to Neapolitan pizza, it is still not uncommon to see menus serving East-meets-West concoctions such as spaghetti topped with cod roe and shredded seaweed. That said, the city’s best French and Italian establishments can hold their own on a global scale. Naturally, there's also excellent Japanese cuisine available throughout the city, ranging from the traditional to nouveau, which can be shockingly expensive.
That is not to imply that every meal in the city will drain your finances—the current rage is all about "B-kyu gurume" (B-class gourmet), restaurants that fill the gap between nationwide chains and fine cuisine, serving tasty Japanese and Asian food without the extra frills of tablecloths and lacquerware. All department stores and most skyscrapers have at least one floor of restaurants that are accessible, affordable, and reputable.
Asakusa is known for its tempura, and Tsukiji prides itself on its fresh sashimi, which is available in excellent quality throughout the city. Ramen is a passion for many locals, who travel across town or stand in line for an hour in order to sit at the counter of a shop rumored to have the perfect balance of noodles and broth. Even the neighborhood convenience stores will offer colorful salads, sandwiches, and a selection of beer and sake. There have been good and affordable Indian and Chinese restaurants in the city for decades. As a result of increased travel by the Japanese to more exotic locations, Thai, Vietnamese, and Turkish restaurants have popped up around the city. When in doubt, note that Tokyo's top-rated international hotels also have some of the city's best places to eat and drink.
Also known as "Andy's," this izakaya is directly under the tracks of the Yamanote Line, making the wooden interior shudder each time a train passes overhead. It's a favorite with local and foreign journalists and is actually run by a Brit, Andy, who travels to the seafood market every morning to buy ingredients for not-to-miss dishes such as sashimi or buttered scallops. It fills up very quickly, so it's best to call at least a day in advance to make a reservation.
Founded by American Bryan Baird in 2000, Baird Brewing has become one of the leaders in Japan's booming craft-beer movement, with a range of creative seasonal beers as well as such year-round brews as the hop-heavy Suruga Bay IPA. The Taproom combines Baird's excellent lineup of microbrews with Japanese izakaya (pub) fare like yakitori (grilled chicken skewers). There are other branches in Naka Meguro, Takadanobaba, Kichijoji, and Yokohama.
Old, funky, and more than a little cramped, Robata is a bit daunting at first, but fourth-generation chef-owner Takao Inoue holds forth here with an inspired version of Japanese home cooking. He's also a connoisseur of pottery and serves his food on pieces acquired at famous kilns all over the country. A meal at Robata—like the pottery—is simple to the eye but subtle and fulfilling. Typical dishes include steamed fish with vegetables, stews of beef or pork, and seafood salads. If you don't feel like navigating the Japanese menu, opt for the ¥4,950 course.
Just across the street from Tokyo Dome, this slightly upscale izakaya serves hearty dishes in a comfortable, heavy-timbered basement space. With a menu that includes some of Japanese cuisine's more accessible dishes—curries, fried pork cutlets (katsudon) or seafood, hamburgers, steaks—it's a good choice for kids and other less-adventurous eaters. Your waiters might insist that you wear the provided paper bib for the juicier dishes—take their advice, and your shirt will thank you.
Bouquets of flowers are lovely seasonal touches in the airy dining room of this restaurant, which was converted from a sento (public bathhouse) and still has the original high ceiling (built for ventilation) and the signs instructing bathers where to change. The specialty is the tonkatsu set—tender, juicy, deep-fried pork cutlets served with a tangy sauce, shredded cabbage, miso soup, and rice. There's usually a long line, and although it moves quickly, if you're in a rush, you can order something from the takeout window. Solo diners can jump the line to sit at the counter. There are also branches in the Hikarie building in Shibuya and the Daimaru department store by Tokyo Station.
At the original branch of Monsoon Cafe, which has a dozen locations (including in Shinjuku and Omotesando), the pan-Asian menu is complemented by rattan furniture, brass Thai tableware, colorful papier-mâché parrots, Balinese carvings, and ceiling fans. The best seats in the house are on the balcony that runs around the four sides of an atrium-style space. Try the butcher's plate (mixed grilled meats), steamed shrimp dumplings, or nasi goreng (Indonesian fried rice).
In addition to its elegant decor, plush sofas, and outdoor patio, the lobby lounge at the Palace Hotel also offers one of Tokyo's best afternoon tea experiences, featuring both Japanese and European sweets; an extensive menu of unique, high-end teas; and several set-price options for tea and/or sweets. In the evening, cocktails take center stage.
This could be considered a drinking establishment, thanks to its wine selection and its surprising variety of mostly Belgian and craft beers, but its range of meat plates, tapas, and appetizers also makes it a great place for a full meal at lunch or dinner. It's housed in an unimposing building at the far end of Shinjuku Station's outdoor Southern Terrace.
Tokyoites love unique dining experiences and their own history—they can revel in both in this eatery, which is a tribute to Ryoma Sakamoto, a young hero who died while helping overthrow the feudal Tokugawa Shogunate in the 1860s. When you enter from the ultramodern streets of Shinjuku, slide off your shoes, stash them in a wooden locker, and walk by a statue of the sword-wielding Sakamoto as you step into the Japan of the past. You can sit in the main dining hall, which resembles a bustling historic inn, or you can phone ahead to reserve a private tatami-mat dining room. The cuisine also harkens back to the traditional rural cooking, popular before Japan opened up to the West. The house specialty is seiro-mushi, a bamboo box filled with carefully arranged seafood, poultry, or meat, steamed over a pot, served piping hot, and quickly shared with everyone at the table.
With more than 100 varieties of sake from all over Japan, Sake no Ana (literally, "the sake hole") has a sake sommelier who can help you make a selection. Though most sake-specialty restaurants are open only for dinner, this one is also open for lunch, and the food is classic izakaya fare. At lunchtime there are hearty donburi dishes, large bowls of rice topped with seasonal sashimi or beef simmered in a sweet soy broth.
This microbrewery in Daikanyama produces a core lineup of six ales and lagers, as well as seasonal and limited releases, such as an 8% Belgian “gran cru,” Jazzberry made with raspberries and wine yeast, or a 6.5% hop-heavy IPA. But Spring Valley isn't just a place to drink—the menu also lists a good range of burgers, pizzas, and grilled meats, all with beer-pairing suggestions. If you're a fan of this place, note that it has a sister location in Kyoto.
Yakitori and other skewers of chargrilled meat and vegetables are the name of the game at this hip, local-favorite izakaya. To make ordering easier, select one of the set menus, which feature multiple skewers and a few side dishes such as tofu. Beverage options include highballs, draft lager, and local nihonshu (sake).
This branch of Hong Kong's famous restaurant serves up a variety of authentic and accessible dim sum dishes in a casual atmosphere. Some highlights include the steamed pork spareribs with black bean sauce, deep-fried eggplant with shrimp, and the steamed rice rolls filled with beef, pork, or shrimp. Be sure to try the daikon mochi (pan-fried daikon cake) which manages to be both crispy and creamy all in one bite. Lines can be very long on weekends and right around lunch or dinner, so it is best to arrive before the store opens or in the late afternoon. For a quick snack, the shop also has a dedicated take-out window just for its signature baked BBQ pork buns.
This casual American chain is world-famous for its barbecued ribs. It also serves kid-size (and much larger) portions of burgers, chicken strips, and fried shrimp. The chain, which started in Miami in the 1970s, is dwindling in the U.S., but it's still going strong overseas. There's another branch in the Hanzomon area.
Dating back to the 1950s, this classic izakaya is a casual and lively place, where the third and fourth floors have tables, and the first two floors have only counter seats that are ideal for watching and chatting with the chefs. The focus is mostly on seafood, which pairs well the nihonshu on the menu. The only challenge to ordering might be your language skills, as the menu is handwritten in Japanese on the walls. However, this being low-key Fukagawa, the friendly staff will find a way to ensure that you're well-fed, even if that means pointing at other diners' dishes. Or you could inquire what they recommend ("osusume wa nan desu ka?"), and go with the flow.
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