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The local specialty in Nikko is a soybean-based concoction known as yuba (tofu skin); dozens of restaurants in Nikko serve it in a variety of dishes you might not have believed possible for so prosaic an ingredient. Other local favorites are soba (buckwheat) and udon (wheat-flour) noodles—both inexpensive, filling, and tasty options for lunch.
Three things about Kamakura make it a good place to dine. It's on the ocean (properly speaking, on Sagami Bay), which means that fresh seafood is everywhere; it's a major tourist stop; and it has long been a prestigious place to live among Japan's worldly and well-to-do (many successful writers, artists, and intellectuals call Kamakura home). On a day trip from Tokyo, you can feel confident picking a place for lunch almost at random.
Yokohama, as befits a city of more than 3 million people, lacks little in the way of food: from quick-fix lunch counters to elegant dining rooms, you'll find almost every imaginable cuisine. Your best bet is Chinatown—Japan's largest Chinese community—with more than 100 restaurants representing every regional style. If you fancy Italian, Indian, or even Scandinavian, this international port is still guaranteed to provide an eminently satisfying meal.
Baird, one of the first craft brewers to find success in Japan, now has several taprooms in and near Tokyo, including this one on a side street just off of Bashamichi. You'll find almost a dozen Baird beers on tap—from year-round IPAs to seasonal specials like a summer mikan ale and warming imperial stouts—and the bar menu features Texas barbecue.
Located in one of the area's few remaining historic Western-style houses, Enokitei is a relaxing stop for sweets or a light meal. The interior has the feel of a British-style tea room, with dark wood and antiques, while the garden terrace is surrounded by greenery and flowers much of the year. In addition to cakes and scones, Enokitei also has a selection of homemade sandwiches for a light lunch.
This no-frills eatery serves excellent sheng jian bao (Shanghai-style fried dumplings) and other casual Shanghai cuisine all day long. The kitchen is behind glass so you can admire the speed with which the chefs cook up this Shanghai staple. Get a selection of sheng jian bao at the first floor takeout window for an inexpensive snack or dine in at the second-floor restaurant for a more relaxed meal.
This kaiten-zushi (sushi served on a conveyor belt that lets you pick the dishes you want) restaurant serves eye-poppingly large fish portions that hang over the edge of their plates. All the standard sushi creations, including tuna, shrimp, and egg, are prepared here. As in any kaiten-zushi joint, simply stack up your empty dishes to the side. When you are ready to leave, the dishes will be counted and you will be charged accordingly.
The wooden tables, antiques, and patches of raised tatami flooring give Nantai a very rustic feel. Try the Nikko specialty, yuba (tofu skin), which comes with the nabe (hot pot) for dinner. It's the quintessential winter family meal. The seafood here is fresh, and both the trout and salmon are recommended. Each meal comes with rice; pickles; side dishes like soy-stewed vegetables, tempura, or udon; and dessert.
The special at this restaurant and café, housed in an old Japanese building on the approach to Meigetsu-in, is beef bourguignon, which can be ordered à la carte or in a set along with soup, salad, and rye bread. For a lighter bite, you can order coffee and cheesecake.
