3 Best Sights in Fez and the Middle Atlas, Morocco

Fresh from a renovation, the mausoleum of Sultan Moulay Ismail, who died in 1727, is a beautiful structure which he had constructed during his lifetime. Off a serene courtyard, a heavily decorated anteroom is filled with striking zellij tilework, painted wood, elaborately carved stucco, graceful arches, and marble columns. His tomb sits in a sacred chamber, which non-Muslims can look in to but cannot enter. 

Just outside the medina walls, within the confines of an extensive cemetery, is the mosque and mausoleum of one of Morocco's most famous saints, Sidi Mohammed ben Aïssa (aka Cheikh El Kamel, 1467–1526). He founded the legendary Aïssaoua Sufi brotherhood, and each year his followers come from all over North Africa to gather at the shrine at the annual moussem (festival) on the eve of the birth of the prophet Mohammed. The festival date varies with the lunar calendar, but expect processions through Meknès, the brotherhood’s singular music, and ecstatic dances, often imitating animals. Ben Aïssa was said to have made a pact with the animal world and to possess magical powers, such as the ability to transform leaves into gold and silver coins. The brotherhood was once known for such voluntary rituals as swallowing scorpions, broken glass, and poison; members also mutilated themselves with knives in prayer-induced trances.  Entry to the mausoleum is restricted to Muslims. 

This important shrine and mausoleum of the Idrissid dynasty's patriarch, Moulay Idriss I, who died in 791, is marked by a wooden bar so that people bow their head on entering. Entry is restricted to Muslims, but for a good view over the green-tiled minaret and rooftop of this landmark building, climb to a vantage point overlooking the religious sanctuary. The hike through the town's surrounding alleys up one of the many hills is invigorating and a symbolic bow to Morocco's secular and spiritual history.