Dar Kamal Chaoui
Kamal Chaoui has turned his family home in the tranquil troglodyte village of Bhalil into a delightful B&B with four rooms thoughtfully decorated with local touches—perhaps a donkey pannier or an intricately painted wooden door as a headboard—all with handwoven blankets across the beds. The roof terrace is the perfect spot for breakfast in summer, but the dar stays cozy in cooler months thanks to Kamal’s inventive heating system. Part of Bhalil’s allure is its location in the foothills of Jebel Kandar and, as well as showing you around the village and organizing visits to local markets, Kamal leads full-day hikes through the mountains from 4-km (2½-mile) walks to serious 28-km (17½-mile) hikes, stopping to eat with locals along the way. You can order a delicious three-course Moroccan dinner at the B&B for 220 DH.