Kichwa Tembo, which means head of the elephant in Kiswahili, is one of Kenya's most sought-after camps. Perched on the edge of a riverine forest below the Oloololo Escarpment, the camp lies directly in the path of the migration. The en-suite tents are spacious and have seemingly never-ending views of the plains from the verandas. You'll be surrounded by the unforgettable sounds of the African night as you drift off to sleep. During the day you can take a dip in the shady pool between activities or just relax on your veranda while you fill out your bird and mammal lists. Don't forget to keep an eye out for passing animals: there'll be predators galore, as well as blue- and red-tailed monkeys, the mischievous banded mongoose, and, if you're really lucky, the endangered black rhino. The candlelit dinner on the banks of the Sabaringo River is a must-do for anyone. The staff here is attentive and charming.