69 Best Hotels in Kenya

If you're among the many who saw Out of Africa and began fantasizing about your own African experience, then you'll be happy to know that this totally private and very romantic world-class camp is just below the famous hill from the unforgettable final scene. The spacious tents have polished wooden floors and a wooden deck with steps leading down to the bush and encircling trees below. A massive four-poster bed dominates the tent's interior—a handy, long, padded stool, great for sitting on while putting on and taking off your boots after a game drive, sits at the foot of the bed. Walk to the back where, surrounded by glass from the walls to the ceiling, is an oval copper bathtub which overlooks a small garden but retains privacy. The public areas—also made of wood and canvas—are decorated with old leather armchairs, antique Persian rugs, framed maps, and a gin bar where you can wander in as you please and fix yourself a drink. Some three or so warthogs, which never seem to leave the premises, will be only a few feet away as you tuck into lunch under the shade of towering trees. The game-viewing will keep you busy by day and night, but do try to include a picnic on the edge of the scenic Oloololo Escarpment—it will induce dreams of those who once hunted and gathered here millennia ago. The gym, pool, and shop overlook the bush, and you might spot a dazzle of zebras while running on the treadmill. 

Perched on the edge of a riverine forest below the Oloololo Escarpment, Kichwa Tembo (head of the elephant in Kiswahili) lies directly in the path of the migration making it one of Kenya's most sought-after camps. The en suite tents are spacious and have seemingly never-ending views of the plains from the verandas. You'll be surrounded by the unforgettable sounds of the African night as you drift off to sleep. During the day you can take a dip in the pool between activities or just relax on your veranda while you fill out your bird and mammal lists. Don't forget to keep an eye out for passing animals: there'll be predators galore, as well as blue- and red-tailed monkeys, the mischievous banded mongoose, and a curious warthog may come up to your tent doorway. The candlelit dinner on the banks of the Sabaringo River is a must-do for anyone. The staff here is attentive and charming.

Built of stone and thatch, these luxurious double-story villas are elegantly furnished; you can choose between the Garden Villa, the Cliff Villa, or the Beach Villa (book months in advance for the latter), each with its own unique architecture and interiors. Expect handmade furniture—made on the property—and comfortable beds, chairs, and sofas that complement the family's global collection of fascinating artifacts. The villas have either three or four en suite bedrooms with extra rooms for the kids, wide balconies and verandahs, and a geometric-shaped pool that borders the Indian Ocean. The service is superb and so is the à la carte Mediterranean cuisine, served either alfresco or in your villa. Go for a safari, enjoy all the beach and water activities, or leave the kids with a nanny and be alone for a while.

Situated beside a natural flowing spring with spectacular views of Mt. Kilimanjaro, this lodge's ochre-color guest rooms line paved walkways that weave through landscaped gardens. The food, cooked with locally grown herbs and vegetables, is excellent, particularly the house-made pasta. Because the lodge is near the Enkongo Narok Swamp, there's always plenty of game around, and it's common to spot elephants from your breakfast table. Take a game drive, go walking with a Maasai guide, enjoy a bush breakfast, have sunset drinks on top of Observation Hill, or relax at the swimming pool and sundeck. The rooms are small and fairly basic, but they have touches of Maasai-inspired decor, walk-in showers, and verandahs. Always remember to keep your doors and windows closed to keep out marauding vervet monkeys, which look cute but can make off with your belongings. There is one suite, which has its own private garden and rooftop balcony, and which has direct views to Kilimanjaro. What the lodge lacks in luxury is more than made up for by the friendly and helpful staff, and it's family-friendly.

When Ernest Hemingway wrote The Snows of Kilimanjaro, he stayed near the area on which this attractive lodge was eventually built. It's in lush established gardens in the foothills of Mt. Kilimanjaro near the Tanzanian border. You'll stay in a roomy mud-and-thatch en suite hut, gaily decorated with wood, animal motifs, and brightly colored soft furnishings. Enjoy a hearty breakfast and lunch buffet inside in the big African-theme dining room, or eat out beside the pool, where there's also a pleasant poolside bar. In the evening sit down to a four-course meal where you can choose between European, African, or Asian dishes. There is a stunning lounge area and great viewing deck. It's also a great place for kids—there's plenty of room for them to run around, a lovely pool, and babysitters are always available if you want to be child-free for an evening. The lodge offers lots of activities including game drives, guided walks, and trips to Maasai villages. If you want to have a go at climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro, the lodge can arrange that, too.

Translating to "suspended in mid-air", Angama has one of the best views in the Mara as it sits at the very top of an escarpment, with dramatic views over the valley below. Divided into a north and south wing, the property feels intimate with just 15 suites on each side. The main area is urban and contemporary, with large glass doors drawing the outdoors in, and a sunken fire pit with red cushions where you can hang out in the evenings and feel as though you're floating over the Mara. Rooms have indoor bathtubs and large wooden verandahs from which you can spot giraffes and elephants trekking up and down the small hills beyond. You're never short of activities as there is a photography studio where you can rent equipment, get lessons in wildlife photography, or hire a photographer to shadow you for the day. There's a map room with more than 60 maps, and a beading room where Maasai women from the local community can teach you how to handmake the colorful jewelry which is significant to their culture. This is one of the most family-friendly properties around, too, with activities such as spear throwing with Maasai warriors and making ice cream with the chefs. Sundowners, complete with Maasai men and women chanting and dancing around a bonfire on the edge of a cliff with the most dramatic of views are unmissable. Even the drive up here is very scenic, past a hippo pool where you might spot them basking in the mid-day sun, up the escarpment through a thick green forest with a reservoir and plenty of game.

The traditional Borana cattle ranch—a part of Kenyan highland history—was given a whole new lease on life in 2013, when 21 highly endangered black rhinos were translocated here from Lake Nakuru National Park and from the neighboring Lewa Conservancy; they're easily viewable as you drive around. The luxuriously spacious and well-appointed cottages, designed into the hillside, have private verandahs that offer views of large numbers of resident game that come to drink at the waterhole in front of the lodge in a landscape that has attracted countless artists and photographers. Visitors are given an added opportunity to sample ranch life with some of Africa's most spectacular horseback safaris and the stables have more than 50 horses—riding allows you to appreciate the scenery in silence and get close to plains game such as giraffe, zebra, and eland. You can also go rhino tracking on foot, mountain biking, and fishing or simply relax by the infinity pool and enjoy the views. Sundowners at Pride Rock, the inspiration for the Lion King movies, come with incredible sunsets and spectacular views. The food at Borana is enhanced by fresh seasonal vegetables and salads from their garden and most of the meat and dairy produce comes from the ranch. The rates are inclusive of full-board accommodation, some drinks, and activities but exclude conservation fees (US$105). You can also consider other accommodations such as the upscale Lengishu House, on the same conservancy.

One of Kenya's most environmentally friendly camps, this lovely spot in the Kuku Group Ranch—the natural corridor between Amboseli and Tsavo West National Parks—is owned by an Italian couple who are deeply committed to the environment and the local Maasai community. The camp's name means "Camp of the Hidden Treasure" in Swahili, and was the first camp in Kenya to be gold-rated by Ecotourism Kenya for its efforts in sustainable tourism, and has won other prestigious international ecotourism awards. It's also co-owned by the Maasai, and the ranch itself stretches 1,115 square km (400 square miles) from the foothills of Mt. Kilimanjaro and up into the Chyulu Hills in the east. Activities include game drives (where the game is really wild and not used to vehicles), guided walks including the trek into the cloud forest along the peaks of the Chyulu Hills, bird-watching, and cultural visits. Take your kids to the Maasai school and open their eyes to a completely different way of life. The main lounge and dining areas are in Tembo (Elephant) House, which has superb views of Kilimanjaro and the Taita Hills. All the thatched roof tented cottages have great views, as well as wooden floors, a veranda, and an en suite bathroom with flush toilet, and hot and cold running water. The Hemingway and Simba tented suites also boast king-size beds and a dressing room, while Kanzi House is a thatched villa that sleeps up to eight and has a swimming pool. Note that there is an additional US$120 per-person, per-day conservation fee, which entirely benefits the local Maasai community.

If you want to turn back the clock and immerse yourself in the kind of original safari ambience that Ernest Hemingway enjoyed, this is the place to do it. From the superb and gracious service to the touches of antique luxury—claw-foot tubs, faded antique rugs, wrought-iron candlesticks, old gramophones, polished butlers' trays—the Cottar family's 80 years of experience certainly shows. Sit outside your own spacious, authentic white tent on a wooden rocking chair and watch the hills and valleys below, or relax in the deep red armchairs of the main tented lounge and admire the old photos and prints. At night as you sip a brandy snifter under the soft glow of oil lamps by a log fire, you'll forget all about the 21st century. The tents, with separate lounge and bedroom areas and floor-level canvas decks, are in a huge, 250,000-acre exclusive concession between the Masai Mara, Serengeti, and Loliondo reserves. Because it's a private concession, you won't see the masses of other tourists that you can hardly help bumping into elsewhere in the Masai Mara itself. Because they operate just outside the reserve, Cottar's game vehicles are also allowed off-road, which means more freedom to follow game. The legendary fourth-generation Kenyan Calvin Cottar could be your guide (at extra cost), but his experienced colleagues won't let you down either. Enjoy a quiet moment in the tented reading room, or rest in a hammock by the natural rock pool. The owners pay the local Maasai community for land use and have helped finance the local school and nearby clinics so that the camp and its activities are seen as a part of the surrounding land and its people.

About a half-hour drive from the town of Naivasha, Crater Lake Tented Camp is situated in the cauldron of a crater in the Crater Lake Game Sanctuary, on the edge of a lovely salt-water lake, which itself lies just off the southwestern shore of Lake Naivasha. The views here are exquisite: pale fever trees flank the water and attract more than 200 species of birds as well as black-and-white colobus monkeys. The tented rooms all look across the lake, and the brick-built bandas are set back a little. The decor is underwhelming, but the views more than make up for it, especially from the restaurant deck that sits right over the deep green water. There's also the option to camp here and you can hire tents and all other equipment. Definitely make time for the interesting two-hour guided walk through the sanctuary and a night drive when you might see hippos, hyenas, and bush babies.

This quality five-star resort is the perfect place for a honeymoon or some après-safari pampering. Service is excellent, with welcome little touches, such as a cocktail brought to your room before dinner and a bottle of cold water placed next to your bed at night. Stylish suites, with Indonesian teak furniture, flat-screen TVs, large bathrooms, and private patios, are lined along a breezy coral-colored central walkway. Superb five-course dinners are served in the restaurant overlooking the pool and beach. The Neptune buffets, with all conceivable seafood delicacy on display, are outstanding, and on Fridays there are gala dinners around the pool with live music. The reception areas are a bit impersonal, reminding you that the hotel is part of a chain, but the service and attention to detail is equal to that of a smaller boutique hotel.

This mid-range resort will make sure you get the best out of your beach break. The well-equipped rooms each have a balcony or terrace, it offers all the sporting and entertainment facilities you could wish for, and 300 meters (984 feet) of lovely palm-fringed beachfront. Choose a garden room overlooking lush greenery and flowering plants, or a deluxe room with sea view and spa bath. Coral Rock Cafe is the main buffet restaurant and there are Asian and seafood venues, too. There's a huge range of activities from tennis, squash, pool, and table tennis, to waterskiing, scuba diving, snorkeling, windsurfing, and sailing. A ride in a glass-bottomed boat out to the coral reef is mandatory. Don't pass up the chance to get a massage at the Maya Spa. At the end of the day watch a movie in the state-of-the-art cinema, or try your luck in the glitzy casino. There's a great kids' program that will entertain the tots while you do your own thing.

In an attractive garden, these Swahili-style individual bandas, each with a thatch roof and small veranda, are seconds away from the pool and beach. The rooms, which have cool white-tiled floors, colorful cushions and bedspreads, and sturdy wooden furniture are in need of an update, but the bar and restaurant area is comfortable and attractive. The staff, always eager to see to your needs, can arrange for any type of water sports. The restaurant serves reasonably priced seafood, and the pub is a gathering place for many expats living in the area. If you've always wanted to dive, the club will set up lessons for you; it also caters to experienced divers. The hotel is a favorite with sports fishermen. There are some private villas ideal for larger groups and families. Ask for a banda directly facing the sea.

The best place to stay in Meru, this stylish and romantic lodge is set above George Adamson's original campsite, where he and his wife, author Joy Adamson, released their lioness Elsa (after which the lodge is named) back into the wild. It's a strikingly attractive lodge both for its elevated position and for its imaginatively designed thatch cottages. Since rooms are constructed on the slopes of a hill and most stand on stilts, no two cottages are the same. There are boulders for walls, the tents have expansive views of the park, trees grow through the roof, and spacious interiors are furnished with handcrafted furniture, hand-woven rugs, and earth-toned cushions, throws, and bedspreads. All the cottages have complete privacy, but if you would like your family to stay together and have your own private infinity swimming pool, go for Elsa's Private House, which sleeps four (extra beds can be added for kids) and has a small garden. Watch the plains game ambling through the grasslands from your verandah or view predators or rhinos in open-sided game vehicles before sundowners at the palm-fringed hippo pools. Meals here are excellent, and there's a relaxed thatched bar and lounge area with low-slung wood-and-cushion chairs and sofas overlooking the main swimming pool that is cleverly carved into the rocks.

Although the Fairmont's camp area has manicured lawns and flowers, it is surrounded on three sides by the croc- and hippo-filled Mara River, so you are always close to the wildlife. Within each spacious tent, the bedspread of the four-poster mosquito-netted beds are made of the iconic red cloth used for Maasai warrior robes, while brightly colored handwoven rugs, comfortable chairs, and big windows ensure aprés-safari comfort. The main lodge is themed old-style safari with deep padded-leather-and-fabric armchairs, beaded lamps, an open fireplace, and an inviting wood-panel bar. Keep family and friends informed of your big-game adventures with Internet access in the library, or write in your journal on the spacious outside deck that leads to a pool, complete with bar and private massage tents. Forgo one morning game drive in favor of a hot-air-balloon safari over the Mara plains followed by a bush Champagne breakfast—you'll thank us—or stroll in the footprints of the hippo-trodden path, escorted by a Maasai warrior (four people minimum).

This grand old colonial lady will take you back to the heady early days when settlers, adventurers, colonial officers, and their ladies arrived in the capital to make their names and their fortunes. Built in 1904, the Norfolk was one of Nairobi's first hotels and quickly became the meeting place and waterhole for everybody who was anybody in the colony. The hotel is now part of the Fairmont chain of hotels, but the original mock-Tudor facade and colonial opulence still remain, so you can easily imagine yourself back in the early days as you sip your G&T—it's always called G&T, never gin and tonic—or an excellent local Tusker beer on the Lord Delamere Terrace or in the leather-chaired bar. If you're there on a Sunday, do not miss the lavish high tea.

Set against the dunes in Shela village, Fatuma's Tower is a beautiful, cool, calm escape. The magical homestead was built in the late 1990s on crumbling ruins, and looks like it's been there for centuries. Bougainvillea clamber up the concrete walls, and a giant tortilis acacia watches over the back garden, where healthy, fresh-cooked meals are served in its shade. The rooms are large and airy and furnished with Swahili antiques and local textiles and have solar-powered hot water. A big draw for staying at Fatuma's Tower is its yoga space where very accessible classes are available every afternoon.

This budget option on the banks of the Talek River overlooks the plains and its location on the northeastern boundary of the reserve gives it easy access to all the game areas. You'll stay in a safari tent or stone-and-thatch chalet, both furnished in African ethnic themes, but you should try for a tent with a river view; be sure to have taken your malaria prevention tablets. Both tents and chalets are en-suite and have small verandas or balconies. There are two bars, an indoor and outdoor eating area, and a tree-house coffee deck where you can watch the passing animal show. Don't expect the ultimate in luxury, but you'll get good value for your money and also get to meet lots of international visitors. If you want more luxury and exclusivity, go for one of the Ngaboli tents, where you'll sleep in a four-poster bed and have lots more room. Activities are extra: night safaris, bush walks, champagne breakfasts, and bush dinners range in price from US$45 to US$60.

At the turn of the 20th century, Denys Finch Hatton---if you saw the movie Out of Africa, then you'll have some idea, even if it's rather over-romanticized, of who he was---left his native England and fell in love with Kenya, cultivating a reputation for leading classy, exclusive safaris for American tycoons and British royalty, among others; his legend lives on in this superb, award-winning camp. It's now the most luxurious place to stay in Tsavo West; your every whim is catered to, and dinner is served at a table sparkling with silver and crystal as strains of Mozart (Denys's favorite composer) softly fill the African night. The camp is in groves of old acacia trees around a natural spring that is home to hippos, crocodiles, and numerous species of birds near the Kenya/Tanzania border. The tents are luxuriously furnished with antique furniture, wooden chests, and even a daybed on your personal veranda; all tents have outside showers, freestanding copper bathtubs, and viewing deck facing the hippo pools. The spa features a hammam, gym, yoga studio, and two infinity swimming pools. It's expensive, but this camp is worth it.

One of the world's most Instagrammed hotels, yes, giraffes really do pop their heads through the windows and bat their eyelashes at you at this stately old look-alike gabled Scottish hunting lodge. Built of honey-color sandstone and set in a forest in the Nairobi suburb of Langata, it's 30 minutes by road from the city center. It's a haven of peace and tranquility, unless you reckon curious giraffes and snuffling warthogs as stressful. Rare, endangered Rothschild's giraffes roam freely through the estate, and you can find out more about the species at the adjacent Giraffe Centre. If possible, choose a honeymoon master bedroom with an art-deco bathroom. There's also a family suite with two rooms that can sleep two adults and up to three children, and the Karen Blixen suite that's got a courtyard garden.

One of the famous Governors' Camps, Il Moran is where Kenya's first colonial governors used to twirl their handlebar mustaches and sip their gin and tonics while on safari—as you can imagine, it boasts an exclusive location that's teeming with game. Il Moran, which means warrior in Maasai, sits on the edge of the plains, nestled in a private forest on the banks of the Mara river. There are 10 luxurious tents, all spacious and imaginatively furnished with original furniture hand-carved from ancient olive trees, the antique Persian rugs that seem obligatory in so many safari accommodations, battered old leather suitcases, glowing oil lamps and a hammock on the verandah from which you could spot a herd of elephants dust bathing. You'll feel like a pampered Victorian gentleman or lady as you soak in your claw-foot tub. Breakfast can be in the raised wooden deck of the restaurant while watching hippos bobbing up and down in the Mara River below, while dinner is served by candlelight in the open dining tent or alfresco by the river. There are game drives and bush walks with the highly trained guides shared by all the Governors’ Camps, but treat yourself to the hot-air-balloon ride (an extra cost) with a champagne breakfast in the bush to follow. They are the only lodge that also offers flights in-house, with transfers between Nairobi, Mara, Loldia and Mugie, on Cessna Grand Caravans.

This eco-friendly camp in the middle of the exclusive Mara Naboisho Conservancy is named after the olseki or sandpaper tree, which is a Maasai symbol of peace, harmony, and wealth. Set on round wooden platforms on a rocky outcrop surrounded by bird-filled trees, the 10 tents look as if they are sailing through the bush. Inside, it's all space and light, with simple, stylish furnishings: a double and single bed, cream and earth-tone soft furnishings, straw mats, carefully planned lighting, and en suite toilet and shower. The lean, clean effect is carried through to the attractive dining tent and library, which has a fireplace. The two newer suites have two bedrooms, living and dining areas, and their own kitchens; guests can choose to have the staff finish cooking meals here before serving them privately. The conservancy limits entry to only clients actually staying inside the area and offers an incredibly private safari experience. Activities include morning and night game drives with lots of game—you might get one of Kenya's few women guides—bush picnics, star-gazer walks, botanical walks, and visits to authentic, non-touristy Maasai villages.

You'll find nostalgia, history, and romantic surroundings at this family-owned boutique hotel. Set in lush gardens, it's 20 minutes from downtown Nairobi in the quiet suburb of Karen. It was here that the notorious Danish womanizer, man-about-town, and wannabe coffee farmer, Baron Bror von Blixen-Finecke, brought his lovely young wife, Karen. It was also here that Karen met and fell hopelessly and helplessly in love with the English hunter and adventurer Denys Finch Hatton—their tragic romance was brought vividly to life in the movie Out of Africa, starring Meryl Streep and Robert Redford. The hotel, a colonial-style villa with two wings, is family-owned and -run (Waine is an acronym comprising the initials of family members’ names). Colonial ambience mixes comfortably with modern luxury in the beautifully appointed guest suites, each uniquely decorated in vivid colors with elegant furniture and a marble en suite bathroom. Fresh and wholesome lunches and dinners with daily changing menus are served, and there's a comfortable lounge and bar where a welcoming roaring fire is lit on cooler evenings.

Situated on a rocky outcrop in the Il Ngwesi Group Ranch, a community conservation and livestock region north of the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, this intimate lodge prides itself on its successful efforts to integrate community development and sustainable environmental management. The comfortably furnished open-walled bandas with open-air showers are made of local materials and built on a slope—their fronts rest on wooden stilts—thus giving uninterrupted views of the surrounding wilderness. Make sure you take the opportunity to sit out at the main lodge and watch the waterhole below or cool off in the horizon pool, which gently flows down into the bush below; water is gravity-piped from a nearby natural spring. You'll see plenty of game including lions, leopards, cheetahs, hyenas, the elusive wild dog, and large herds of elephants and buffalo, plus the plains game. The local Maasai community helped build and continues to run the camp through a communal group, and you can learn about hunting, gathering honey, animal trapping with indigenous poisons, or fashioning beadwork. You won't want to miss the dancing of the warriors and maidens—it's the genuine article. Il Ngwesi Camp is a shining example of how a safari lodge can reduce poverty and strengthen partnerships between the tourist trade and local communities.

Located right on the waterfront in Shela, Kijani Hotel offers rooms in three converted Arab merchant houses grouped around a pretty central garden (kijani is Swahili for green) with swimming pool. They are furnished with antiques sourced in Lamu and Zanzibar, including high Swahili beds with colorful kikoi bedspreads, woven mats, and charming shutters over the windows. Although the rooms don't have any amenities, there's a tranquil, relaxed air to the place; all rooms have a safe, and free Wi-Fi. The restaurant is one of the best in Shela for seafood and pasta, and they serve excellent cocktails too; try the molten lava cake for dessert. Excellent breakfasts are included. The hotel can arrange dhow trips on the Shaba Dhow complete with meals prepared aboard, and tours of Lamu town.

This lovely old lodge was Kenya's first lodge to open in a national park (1962). Timber, stone, and thatch buildings complement the natural wilderness surroundings and when it's not wreathed in clouds, there's a good view of Mt. Kilimanjaro. You can watch game and birds at the magnificent and often busy waterhole from any one of several viewing decks, or enjoy a drink in the bar carved out of rocks. En suite rooms are decorated in the ubiquitous African-theme fabrics, but are comfortable and spacious. Buffet meals with plenty of variety are way above the average. You can book all sorts of activities at the lodge, including morning and afternoon game drives and walks, bush breakfasts and dinners, and trips to Mzima Springs.

This elegant resort, much favored by Italians, is in large grounds amid a profusion of tropical flowering plants 4 km (2½ miles) from Malindi. Spacious airy rooms, mostly decorated in white, have classy Swahili-inspired antique furniture such as carved four-poster beds, complemented by the dark browns of the rugs, bedspreads, and lamps. A private furnished veranda looks out onto the pool where your breakfast is served each morning. Even the Romans hardly had it so good. The cuisine is international, with delicious seafood dishes, and there are two bars, a spa, and a fabulous private beach. The name delightfully means "sofa by the sea" in Swahili.

Owned by a Swedish family, the delightful Kinondo Kwetu was built in an idyllic location in a section of sacred forest on Galu Beach. Tribal elders advised on the layout so that the most important trees—ancient baobabs included—were preserved, adding a certain spirituality to this exclusive and spacious retreat. It has an excellent reputation for wellness, with a Finnish sauna, spa treatments, yoga platform, and a special meditation site on a nearby cliff. Diving, dhow sailing trips, and horse riding are also available. The suites in the main house, and cottages and two-bedroom Beach House, either face the sea or one of the two swimming pools, and while decor is contemporary it's accented with traditional Kenyan artifacts and textiles. All around the property—along the beach and in alcoves in the extensive gardens—you'll find daybeds and loungers inviting you to soak up the serene atmosphere.

The rooms in this boutique hotel, located next to the Donkey Sanctuary on Lamu's waterfront, are all different, but each one is superbly decorated in traditional Swahili style and has a separate dressing room and a terrace looking out either onto the water or the town. The communal areas in the inside courtyard of the hotel are comfortable and tranquil, and there is one large pool and a plunge pool for cooling off. Don't miss the gift shop attached to the hotel, which sells gorgeous soft kikois, sandals, bags, and kaftans. The hotel's restaurant, Moonrise, is open to nonguests and is one of the best in town. You can order fish of the day steamed in a banana leaf or pan-fried with a tamarind sauce, or lobster, tuna, sailfish, pasta, chicken curry, or a good vegetarian dal. The hotel offers mid- to long-term rentals on high-end apartments in Lamu.

If it's rhinos you're after, then this delightful but small tented camp in the 65,000-acre Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, right where the old Rhino Sanctuary headquarters used to stand, is for you. There's a comfortable main building with cozy log fires for eating and relaxing, and wide verandas outside each tent for soaking up the beautiful environs. But if it's game-viewing you're after, then one of the camp's expert team of professional guides will take you on an exhilarating drive. Spacious tents protected by a sturdy thatch roof have comfortable beds, a desk for keeping up on those precious journal notes, and en suite bathrooms. The food is homegrown and tasty. Bird-watching is spectacular in this area, but it's likely that while you're watching out for feathered friends, you're likely to spot big game as well, including lion, leopard, and Grevy's zebra. Other activities include morning game walks, evening horse rides, or a relaxing massage next to the gorgeous pool that has giraffe-shaped tiles.