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Hotels in Alexandria are located in two clusters that are roughly 30 minutes apart. Upscale resort hotels are all out along the eastern shoreline in Montazah, close to or even within the manicured khedivial palace gardens—but not convenient to the city or the historic sights. Lower-budget hotels are almost all Downtown, much more convenient but less tranquil.
In truth, with the exception of the Salamlek Palace and the Four Seasons, the luxury hotels in Alexandria are drab, generic places not worth what they charge. Fortunately, a couple of mid-range hotels, including the surprisingly elegant Metropole, make attractive alternatives in the city center. Summer is a busy season, when advance reservations are essential. In spring and fall you may find hotels fully booked on weekends (Friday through Sunday), when residents of Cairo head to Alexandria for some downtime. Outside peak summer season, most hotels discount their prices by 30% to 40%. Many hotels quote prices in U.S. dollars or euros, but if you pay with a credit card, your payment will be charged in the equivalent of Egyptian pounds.
Set amid royal gardens, between the old palace and a private cove, this modernist hotel was built in 1964 to house visiting heads of state attending an Arab summit; its interior space has, however, been brought into the 21st century. North-facing rooms have excellent sea views, while others overlook the gardens. The small cove and its artificial beach have an Italian Lido feel.
On the 9th floor of Alexandria's first skyscraper, built in 1930, is one of the nicest budget hotels in town. Every room has a balcony and the 10th floor restaurant and coffee bar provides excellent views of the city. Rooms are basic but clean and well-sized for the price. Unlike most budget hotels, the Wi-Fi signal actually reaches the rooms and is reasonably strong.
What started as a 19th-century British Bridge Club and then served as a rest house for Egyptian King Farouk in the 20th century is now one of the most unique places to stay in Alexandria. Famed British novelist Lawrence Durrell stayed here and literature and history lovers will appreciate the on-site library, which holds 300 books, including some that are very rare. As the hotel is steeped in British history and is now owned by the Egyptian military, which gives a discount to local military, clientele tends to be mostly local and British.
With the Cecil, you're paying for history more than creature comforts, but if atmosphere is what you want you'll find it here in spades. Built in 1930 and immortalized as one of Justine's haunts in Lawrence Durrell's Alexandria Quartet, it retains few reminders of that era—just its elegant revolving door, two gorgeous old wooden elevators, and a dusty bar that's changed little since World War II. The rooms have high ceilings and large shuttered windows, and there's a richness in the burgundy and gold drapes and soft furnishings that decorate the space, which give a classical French feel. Some rooms and suites also have a sea view.
On a delightful bay, this modern hotel has international-style amenities and a resort setting not often seen in Egypt. Think business and conference spaces, special needs rooms, and a spa offering less-common treatments (in Egypt, at least) such as Thai massage, chocolate therapy treatments, and traditional Turkish hammam rituals. Rooms are in three low-rise buildings and are decorated in a sober classical Western style comprising warm woods and neutral-colored walls. Most have sea views. The private beachfront with protected shallows is a great asset and ideal if you want to combine sightseeing in Alexandria with a little relaxation.
