Oftentimes an Amtrak train is the only way to gain the vantage point of wide swaths of the country.
A long-distance train is one of the best ways to see an America that many travelers don’t see. Amtrak trains run through some of the country’s most remote regions, with some of the most spectacular scenery. And one of the most comfortable ways to experience a long-distance train is in a sleeper compartment.
But it can be confusing for neophytes. Amtrak, founded in 1971 in a bid to nationalize the money-losing, long-distance passenger railroad services and maintain service to small communities, has never been profitable outside of the northeast corridor. The annual subsidies also cause plenty of grumbling, particularly among those who perceive that tax dollars are going toward supporting a form of travel primarily populated by rail enthusiasts and dilettante excursionists.
But Amtrak services touch virtually every state, so it’s something a third *ahem* rail in American politics. All that aside, here are some things to know before booking an Amtrak sleeper.
It’s Not Luxury
First and foremost, this is the most important thing to understand. Amtrak sleepers often cost a lot of money, but the experience is very much in line with what one might expect from a government-subsidized corporation. The rolling stock on most of Amtrak’s long-distance trains is old. Decades old. A lot of it is in annoying disrepair, and it’s honestly pretty shabby after all those years of hard use. But—we’re here for the novelty, so let’s just suck it up.
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For travelers seeking luxury rail experiences, there are plenty of those around, but they’re generally touring operations—not scheduled intercity rail.
The East-West Divide
Generally, Amtrak sleepers have two different types of cars. East of Chicago, there are single-level Viewliner cars (to clear lower bridge clearances on older tracks in the East), while to the West of Chicago, there are double-decker Superliner cars. There are a couple of exceptions on Eastern routes, like the Auto Train between Virginia and Florida.
Meal service also varies between the East and West, with traditional dining car service West of Chicago (with some exceptions) and Flexible Dining Service to the East. More on that later.
Accommodation Types
Regardless of the type of equipment, there are two basic accommodation types: Roomettes, and Bedrooms. A roommate is a compartment with two facing seats that convert to a pair of bunks at night. A bedroom is a larger compartment with a private sink and toilet/shower, and the lower bunk is more spacious than a roomette. There are some variations on those themes (family bedrooms on Superliners, roomettes with private toilets on Eastern trains), but those are the two biggies.
Generally speaking, roomettes are private—but not spacious—while bedrooms have about twice as much space.
Book in Advance
Sleepers are popular accommodations, and during the summer they can sell out months in advance. This is especially vital for travelers who want to take the entire route from start to finish. Especially popular trains include the Sunset Limited (New Orleans to Los Angeles), Empire Builder (Chicago to Seattle or Portland), and the California Zephyr (Chicago to San Francisco).
Segments of these (such as the portion of California Zephyr that winds through the Rockies between Denver and Salt Lake City) can be popular shorter runs, but to ensure good availability on the entire routing, start checking up to a year in advance.
One way to fix the problem? Overnight along the way. The train might be sold out beyond a certain station on one date, but the next day’s train might have better availability. It’s also nice to have a night off from the monotonous rocking and swaying.
More Travelers, More Economical
Amtrak sleeper accommodations are priced for the accommodation, not for the number of travelers. When booking a sleeper, each individual rail ticket is needed for each passenger, then the accommodation price is extra. Roomettes and Bedrooms can accommodate two passengers each, and the accommodation price is the same regardless of how many travelers occupy the room. Family Bedrooms can accommodate two adults and two children, but we’re talking small children—the children’s bunks are less than five feet long.
Check Dining Service
In the East, passengers in private room accommodations get Flexible Dining Service, which is a set menu of pre-prepared hot entrees delivered directly to rooms. West of Chicago, it’s Traditional Dining Service, with table service in the dining car. Meals (including the first alcoholic drink at dinner) are included in the ticket price for all private room passengers.
Amtrak has recently made improvements to Traditional Dining Service. For less crowding, it’s now exclusively available to private room passengers (previously coach passengers could dine a la carte), and some plastic has been replaced with glassware. On Western routes, passengers can also request meals be served in their room.
There are a number of vegetarian options available, as well as a kids’ menu.
One route exception is the Texas Eagle, which operates daily from Chicago to San Antonio, and on some days combines with the Sunset Limited in San Antonio and continues to Los Angeles. Between Chicago and San Antonio, it’s Flexible Dining Service, but from San Antonio onward it’s Traditional Dining Service.
Review Checked Luggage Options
Amtrak will check luggage that isn’t required on the journey to travel securely and separately in the baggage car. However, the baggage car isn’t opened at every station (smaller stations with short stops generally don’t have checked baggage service available), so check in advance for planning purposes.
Racks are available for larger bags in each of the sleeper cars, but they’re not secured.
Don’t Depend Too Much on the Schedule
Amtrak’s long-distance trains are notoriously late, and it’s not always Amtrak’s fault. Outside the Northeast Corridor, the tracks are owned by freight railroads that control dispatch and access. By law, the freight railroads are supposed to give Amtrak trains top priority, but they often find excuses not to. Once, during a several-hour wait on Coast Starlight near Mount Shasta, the conductor explained that Union Pacific had given priority to their “money train” carrying currency and precious metals.
Have Fun
The beauty of sleeper compartments on the train is that they allow travelers their own space to retreat and relax, but still enjoy the constant stream of changing scenery outside their window. Many trains take routings far away from the Interstate system, so oftentimes an Amtrak train is the only way to gain the vantage point of wide swaths of the country.