Flaubert: 'The purpose of Travel is to show you how small we all are.' It was a measure of just how high these mountains are, that the cirque was still in shadow at noon. The Grande Cascade shown above is the highest waterfall in Europe. Above them: jagged l'Epaule (3073m). The Lacoste family have re-opened their traditional hotel seen on the left and it's back patio was a great place for a restorative cocoa at 1580m. The hotel transfer van was the only authorized road vehicle.
Flaubert: 'The purpose of Travel is to show you how small we all are.' It was a measure of just how high these mountains are, that the cirque was still in shadow at noon. The Grande Cascade shown above is the highest waterfall in Europe. Above them: jagged l'Epaule (3073m). The Lacoste family have re-opened their traditional hotel seen on the left and it's back patio was a great place for a restorative cocoa at 1580m. The hotel transfer van was the only authorized road vehicle.
0 2025/03/30 16:06:15
Bellevue plateau. I really don't know the demographics, but it felt like local French families outnumbered foreign tourists by a large margin. One sizable group of Lebanese 20-somethings broke the rules by blaring music from their portable radio. I am a music lover who did not mind, but possibly other hikers took offense. Young Spanish men also ignored the 'keep dogs on leash' rule, which is actually law here.
Bellevue plateau. I really don't know the demographics, but it felt like local French families outnumbered foreign tourists by a large margin. One sizable group of Lebanese 20-somethings broke the rules by blaring music from their portable radio. I am a music lover who did not mind, but possibly other hikers took offense. Young Spanish men also ignored the 'keep dogs on leash' rule, which is actually law here.
0 2025/03/30 16:06:02
Whereas much of the Pyrenees National Park is hard granite, the Cirque had a lot of limestone. Folks had taken some bits of that rock to create some Innuit-style inukshuk piles along the route. Shown here: Mt. Poutine as seen from the Arribam bois.
Whereas much of the Pyrenees National Park is hard granite, the Cirque had a lot of limestone. Folks had taken some bits of that rock to create some Innuit-style inukshuk piles along the route. Shown here: Mt. Poutine as seen from the Arribam bois.
0 2025/03/30 16:05:48
The sunrise was just starting and the first stretch was paved. Given that it was a Sunday and the popular hike would soon be populated with local families, I cherished the solitude while it lasted. Later, I saw one dad who'd brought his newborn along inside a baby-sling. Given the stretches of unpaved rugged pieton further down the trail and the possibility of tripping there, he seemed foolishly stubborn. In high season, many take a donkey ride to-and-from the cirque with local guides.
The sunrise was just starting and the first stretch was paved. Given that it was a Sunday and the popular hike would soon be populated with local families, I cherished the solitude while it lasted. Later, I saw one dad who'd brought his newborn along inside a baby-sling. Given the stretches of unpaved rugged pieton further down the trail and the possibility of tripping there, he seemed foolishly stubborn. In high season, many take a donkey ride to-and-from the cirque with local guides.
0 2025/03/30 16:05:39
After being dropped off by Gavarnie's Tourism office, I commenced the chilly trek south. Nobody was around for the fist ten minutes, til a young hiker strode up beside me. He resisted every effort that I made to be friendly, ignoring all my nods, waves and 'Ca va?' (howzit going). His being so very anti-social was tres etrange. Another strange aspect then was realizing that the top of Gavarnie plus its pair of neighboring 'sandwich' cirques are actually in Spain: the border crests all three.
After being dropped off by Gavarnie's Tourism office, I commenced the chilly trek south. Nobody was around for the fist ten minutes, til a young hiker strode up beside me. He resisted every effort that I made to be friendly, ignoring all my nods, waves and 'Ca va?' (howzit going). His being so very anti-social was tres etrange. Another strange aspect then was realizing that the top of Gavarnie plus its pair of neighboring 'sandwich' cirques are actually in Spain: the border crests all three.
0 2025/03/30 15:30:20
But the big deal for me was the famed Cirque de Gavarnie hike, which takes one from touristy Gavarnie village south towards the Spanish border. There one finds the namesake, world-renown glacial amphitheater. A spectacular example of massive erosion, the cirque or 'circus' is the Number One activity for most visitors. I wanted to experience the sunrise there. The seasonal public bus had stopped running so I pre-arranged for an early taxi via Gedre down to the cirque (63 euros).
But the big deal for me was the famed Cirque de Gavarnie hike, which takes one from touristy Gavarnie village south towards the Spanish border. There one finds the namesake, world-renown glacial amphitheater. A spectacular example of massive erosion, the cirque or 'circus' is the Number One activity for most visitors. I wanted to experience the sunrise there. The seasonal public bus had stopped running so I pre-arranged for an early taxi via Gedre down to the cirque (63 euros).
0 2025/03/30 15:30:00
Luz itself is surrounded by very impressive mountains. A series of hamlets are spread across them.
Luz itself is surrounded by very impressive mountains. A series of hamlets are spread across them.
0 2025/03/30 15:29:44
My return taxi arrangement had to be OKed by the Japanese gal who'd already reserved it. She lived in Paris and had brought her visiting mom to visit the cirque. We soon all got along well and traded travel tips. Our return route passed the historic hotel in Gedre village, a distinctive building with a great view of the famed Breche de Roland mountain gap. The latter very visible gap is the main Pyrenees hiking trail between France and Spain. We also passed a bungee jump plus Napoleon's bridge.
My return taxi arrangement had to be OKed by the Japanese gal who'd already reserved it. She lived in Paris and had brought her visiting mom to visit the cirque. We soon all got along well and traded travel tips. Our return route passed the historic hotel in Gedre village, a distinctive building with a great view of the famed Breche de Roland mountain gap. The latter very visible gap is the main Pyrenees hiking trail between France and Spain. We also passed a bungee jump plus Napoleon's bridge.
0 2025/03/30 15:29:26
Luz has a whole Walk of Fame featuring the handprints of storied cyclists. Ardiden Velos is one local renter of bikes.
Luz has a whole Walk of Fame featuring the handprints of storied cyclists. Ardiden Velos is one local renter of bikes.
0 2025/03/30 15:29:12
Cycling is a big deal in these here parts. The Tour de France draws a HUGE TV audience.
Cycling is a big deal in these here parts. The Tour de France draws a HUGE TV audience.
0 2025/03/30 15:29:00
Mrs Z was not interested and preferred to rest back at our cozy rental. The driver and myself were both former rock drummers now in our sixties. I recommended to him the superb album 'High Class in Borrowed Shoes' by the Canuck band Max Webster to him. The following day, he pulled over back in Luz to thank me--he loved the album. *above= the iconic local goat-antelope 'chamois'
Mrs Z was not interested and preferred to rest back at our cozy rental. The driver and myself were both former rock drummers now in our sixties. I recommended to him the superb album 'High Class in Borrowed Shoes' by the Canuck band Max Webster to him. The following day, he pulled over back in Luz to thank me--he loved the album. *above= the iconic local goat-antelope 'chamois'
0 2025/03/30 15:28:30
The main produce booth was superb. It was run by one busy couple. They barely were able to handle demand and long lines resulted. Their variety was unsurpassed. For example, they had seven kinds of citrus! Their booth was the looooooongest such one that we'd ever seen in any country. It was the length of a major urban block and was overseen by a B&W photo stencil up on a nearby wall, an image that featured an elderly male (former mayor? cyclist hero?) leaning forward to watch over proceedings.
The main produce booth was superb. It was run by one busy couple. They barely were able to handle demand and long lines resulted. Their variety was unsurpassed. For example, they had seven kinds of citrus! Their booth was the looooooongest such one that we'd ever seen in any country. It was the length of a major urban block and was overseen by a B&W photo stencil up on a nearby wall, an image that featured an elderly male (former mayor? cyclist hero?) leaning forward to watch over proceedings.
0 2025/03/26 18:10:13
He also offers ciders and comme ca.
He also offers ciders and comme ca.
0 2025/03/26 18:09:58
We bought a wide variety of his offerings including his tapenade. They were all excellent and went well with country fromage.
We bought a wide variety of his offerings including his tapenade. They were all excellent and went well with country fromage.
0 2025/03/26 18:09:42
This was the olive vendor.
This was the olive vendor.
0 2025/03/26 18:09:34
Gateau de la Brioche is the local 'traditional' specialty, basically a waffle created with a wood fire on a rotating spit. We bought one from 'Les Doux Soeurs Bigoudainees' from nearby Lezignan. Myrtle/blueberry pies are also popular.
Gateau de la Brioche is the local 'traditional' specialty, basically a waffle created with a wood fire on a rotating spit. We bought one from 'Les Doux Soeurs Bigoudainees' from nearby Lezignan. Myrtle/blueberry pies are also popular.
0 2025/03/26 18:09:19
The meat vendor hailed from Silhen near Cauterets. His hair appears a bit red on the top due to his overhead awning.
The meat vendor hailed from Silhen near Cauterets. His hair appears a bit red on the top due to his overhead awning.
0 2025/03/26 18:09:09
In this area, shoppers can look for black pork cold cuts and grilled mutton chops. The latter goes well with the little white Tarbais beans. One could also seek the tasty Gave trout.
In this area, shoppers can look for black pork cold cuts and grilled mutton chops. The latter goes well with the little white Tarbais beans. One could also seek the tasty Gave trout.
0 2025/03/26 18:09:00
Full marks for originality in this woman's business presentation!
Full marks for originality in this woman's business presentation!
0 2025/03/26 18:08:51
Each vendor had a specialty and there was little overlap.
Each vendor had a specialty and there was little overlap.
0 2025/03/26 18:08:13
This friendly lady ran a honey table. We bought some of her 'bruyere' variety, of which there are two sorts: spring and fall. They each have a distinctive taste, as does bourdain (buckthorn). We used miel in the tea that we made from the freshly-picked spearmint and regular mint from our rental jardin. Other honey sellers in this general area include Rucher Pentu and also Rucher de Tourmalet.
This friendly lady ran a honey table. We bought some of her 'bruyere' variety, of which there are two sorts: spring and fall. They each have a distinctive taste, as does bourdain (buckthorn). We used miel in the tea that we made from the freshly-picked spearmint and regular mint from our rental jardin. Other honey sellers in this general area include Rucher Pentu and also Rucher de Tourmalet.
0 2025/03/26 18:07:58
The POPOTES section (ie 'those who make good food'). Oo-la-la! As Rhon had mentioned above, Luz has a few boulangeries and butchers. They are all excellent, and the lasagna at the butcher beside the smaller Carrefour was among the best we've ever had. Boulangerie Gave makes VG clafouti and also wonderful fig-berry Charlotte cake. Self-caterers will do well in this town.
The POPOTES section (ie 'those who make good food'). Oo-la-la! As Rhon had mentioned above, Luz has a few boulangeries and butchers. They are all excellent, and the lasagna at the butcher beside the smaller Carrefour was among the best we've ever had. Boulangerie Gave makes VG clafouti and also wonderful fig-berry Charlotte cake. Self-caterers will do well in this town.
0 2025/03/26 18:07:41
0 2025/03/26 18:06:47
0 2025/03/26 18:06:31
One block over from the market there was this corner with a gnarly surface. it contrasted with the otherwise well-kept facades elsewhere in Luz. One of the town's seven historic lavoirs was close by.
One block over from the market there was this corner with a gnarly surface. it contrasted with the otherwise well-kept facades elsewhere in Luz. One of the town's seven historic lavoirs was close by.
0 2025/03/26 18:06:19
The delicious menu offered traditional dishes oft served in traditional earthenware. We opted for some 'garbure' stew( cabbage, carrots, potato, ham) with our glasses of wine: Madiran red (raspberry notes) and also St. Mont. Both wines were produced by Plaimont. This was absolutely our kind of place chock full of genuine culture and at opening, quiet enough for my hearing issue to not be a concern.
The delicious menu offered traditional dishes oft served in traditional earthenware. We opted for some 'garbure' stew( cabbage, carrots, potato, ham) with our glasses of wine: Madiran red (raspberry notes) and also St. Mont. Both wines were produced by Plaimont. This was absolutely our kind of place chock full of genuine culture and at opening, quiet enough for my hearing issue to not be a concern.
0 2025/03/26 18:05:52
Among the sprawling (two rooms) antique collection was this 1884 Histoire de France book. Also one sees plates, jars, tools, books, furniture, posters, maps, rocks, toys and more. The water bottles were from Brasserie Puoyols. It was good to warm our bones by the fireplace.
Among the sprawling (two rooms) antique collection was this 1884 Histoire de France book. Also one sees plates, jars, tools, books, furniture, posters, maps, rocks, toys and more. The water bottles were from Brasserie Puoyols. It was good to warm our bones by the fireplace.
0 2025/03/26 18:05:37
Our landlord's mom Christine Diez (old Alain's wife) owns the unique 'Luz et Coutumes' restaurant. It is a combo folk museum/cafe located in Impasse du Presbytere. Centuries of ancestral know-how was on display, for us an unmissable bit of added-value. Our kinda place, far better than some Noun-and-Firkin real-imitation tavern.
Our landlord's mom Christine Diez (old Alain's wife) owns the unique 'Luz et Coutumes' restaurant. It is a combo folk museum/cafe located in Impasse du Presbytere. Centuries of ancestral know-how was on display, for us an unmissable bit of added-value. Our kinda place, far better than some Noun-and-Firkin real-imitation tavern.
0 2025/03/26 18:05:15
Ines Du Pouy runs a very good organic produce market. It is located in the center, next to one of the butchers and set back in a courtyard. He also has a cool carved mailbox beside a similar home-made birdhouse.
Ines Du Pouy runs a very good organic produce market. It is located in the center, next to one of the butchers and set back in a courtyard. He also has a cool carved mailbox beside a similar home-made birdhouse.
0 2025/03/26 18:04:59
We'd been warned that Luz's weekly market was too small, but in fact we were pleasantly surprised at its depth and breadth. It felt tightly-organized and was definitely not too small for our needs. *Folks will tell you that the biggest and best local market in their estimation is up in nearby Argeles-Gazost town.
We'd been warned that Luz's weekly market was too small, but in fact we were pleasantly surprised at its depth and breadth. It felt tightly-organized and was definitely not too small for our needs. *Folks will tell you that the biggest and best local market in their estimation is up in nearby Argeles-Gazost town.
0 2025/03/26 18:04:47
Next: some music before the final Luz imagery (eg. the weekly market), then the Cirque de Gavarnie hike.
Next: some music before the final Luz imagery (eg. the weekly market), then the Cirque de Gavarnie hike.
0 2025/03/25 19:01:49
The Bastan river cut through the town.
The Bastan river cut through the town.
0 2025/03/25 19:01:36
We were alone there for an hour, then some local tourists arrived.
We were alone there for an hour, then some local tourists arrived.
0 2025/03/25 18:33:01
We are not at all religious but there was something very harmonious inside the church. The French photographer whom I've mentioned above likes to visit such historic places with stained glass in order to take abstract shots of the colored glass reflected onto the walls and floors.
We are not at all religious but there was something very harmonious inside the church. The French photographer whom I've mentioned above likes to visit such historic places with stained glass in order to take abstract shots of the colored glass reflected onto the walls and floors.
0 2025/03/25 18:32:32
Victor Hugo drew this unusual church from his bedroom window during his stay in Luz in 1843.
Victor Hugo drew this unusual church from his bedroom window during his stay in Luz in 1843.
0 2025/03/25 18:32:21
That same square also holds Luz's only typical historical attraction, the 12C fortified church known as Des Templiers aka St. Andre. Rather than the Knights Templar, it was actually the Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem who built it to protect themselves from Aragonese brigands.
That same square also holds Luz's only typical historical attraction, the 12C fortified church known as Des Templiers aka St. Andre. Rather than the Knights Templar, it was actually the Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem who built it to protect themselves from Aragonese brigands.
0 2025/03/25 18:32:11
Dead center in the Pl.de la Comporte shown above, one may see lovely Leslie's 'Zenitude' massage business. We each had a massage with her and wallah, would've returned again had we stayed another week. *Phone 0607 8203 07
Dead center in the Pl.de la Comporte shown above, one may see lovely Leslie's 'Zenitude' massage business. We each had a massage with her and wallah, would've returned again had we stayed another week. *Phone 0607 8203 07
0 2025/03/25 18:31:59
Wesh kayn, wesh rak? Je m'appelle Monsieur LaMarsh et je suis un resident de Luz. Et puis, je parle 'verlan Cefran' comme mes enfants.
Wesh kayn, wesh rak? Je m'appelle Monsieur LaMarsh et je suis un resident de Luz. Et puis, je parle 'verlan Cefran' comme mes enfants.
0 2025/03/25 18:31:40
A strange occurrence alarmed us on the second of our 10 nights there. Shown above is the front door which somebody knocked on around 2am. But when I checked, nobody was there. Zebi! Belek, telephone des condes? Our eventual guess was that it was some miskine young drunks from the Txchoco pizza joint/bowling alley directly across. Who knew? The French version of Nicky Nine Doors!
A strange occurrence alarmed us on the second of our 10 nights there. Shown above is the front door which somebody knocked on around 2am. But when I checked, nobody was there. Zebi! Belek, telephone des condes? Our eventual guess was that it was some miskine young drunks from the Txchoco pizza joint/bowling alley directly across. Who knew? The French version of Nicky Nine Doors!
0 2025/03/25 18:31:14
A couple shots from our rental house. Here, some interior decor. Pas mal.
A couple shots from our rental house. Here, some interior decor. Pas mal.
0 2025/03/25 18:31:04
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