This map shows the heart of Ordesa-Perdido park proper. It receives the most visitors and those visitors are tightly controlled. To the best of my knowledge, no private vehicles have ever been allowed and there have been but three van tour companies allowed to operate inside the park. My Torla connection was one of them and an outfit with the same name also was in nearby Broto. The third van company was in Fanlo, but it seems out of business now.
This map shows the heart of Ordesa-Perdido park proper. It receives the most visitors and those visitors are tightly controlled. To the best of my knowledge, no private vehicles have ever been allowed and there have been but three van tour companies allowed to operate inside the park. My Torla connection was one of them and an outfit with the same name also was in nearby Broto. The third van company was in Fanlo, but it seems out of business now.
0 2025/02/02 19:41:28
A shot taken early morn from the gas station at Salinas village. Juancho (Juan Jose) had just fetched me from our new lodgings up at the Bielsa parador and he and I were en route to Torla. Torla was the location of the sole van-tour outfit authorized to take visitors to Ordesa-Perdido park proper. Mrs Z wasn't interested in either the loooong two hour drive from Bielsa to Torla (around the entire bottom half of the park) nor the actual hiking ahead.
A shot taken early morn from the gas station at Salinas village. Juancho (Juan Jose) had just fetched me from our new lodgings up at the Bielsa parador and he and I were en route to Torla. Torla was the location of the sole van-tour outfit authorized to take visitors to Ordesa-Perdido park proper. Mrs Z wasn't interested in either the loooong two hour drive from Bielsa to Torla (around the entire bottom half of the park) nor the actual hiking ahead.
0 2025/02/02 19:41:15
Those rowers still use authentic pinewood rafts. They also use specific vocabulary and dress is traditional clothing. That includes black vests, pants and berets with white shirts and stockings, Black rubber sandals complete the look.
Those rowers still use authentic pinewood rafts. They also use specific vocabulary and dress is traditional clothing. That includes black vests, pants and berets with white shirts and stockings, Black rubber sandals complete the look.
0 2025/02/02 10:13:28
This Pineta valley part starts with this carving. For me, this fellow represents plucky determination. Like for example, if a certain Trip Reporter suddenly had several hours of their labeled photo essay work suddenly disappear at 2am due to some indecipherable tech issue. Sigh...
This Pineta valley part starts with this carving. For me, this fellow represents plucky determination. Like for example, if a certain Trip Reporter suddenly had several hours of their labeled photo essay work suddenly disappear at 2am due to some indecipherable tech issue. Sigh...
0 2025/02/02 10:12:17
Igneous rocks plus many other sorts, were displayed as though on display at an art show, most covered with a wide variety of colorful lichens.
Igneous rocks plus many other sorts, were displayed as though on display at an art show, most covered with a wide variety of colorful lichens.
0 2025/02/02 10:11:29
The variety went on and on...
The variety went on and on...
0 2025/02/02 10:11:19
The aptly-named Fuende la Pieta was on the slope directly behind the hut. This veritable rock garden gallery proved Mother Nature had once earned an Art degree.
The aptly-named Fuende la Pieta was on the slope directly behind the hut. This veritable rock garden gallery proved Mother Nature had once earned an Art degree.
0 2025/02/02 10:10:54
Where are we, Switzerland? This 'Meadow of the Corders' is favoured by local shepherds. Wonder what they pay for their trained sheepdogs?
Where are we, Switzerland? This 'Meadow of the Corders' is favoured by local shepherds. Wonder what they pay for their trained sheepdogs?
0 2025/02/02 10:10:30
La Estiva Refugio is a destination for students taking Mountain Guide courses. Apparently, the first team to arrive there on the final exam gets to drink the waiting bottle of wine. back at Solomonte HQ we'd seen their HUMUNGOUS wall map. It clearly showed the location of La Estiva, marked with the visible symbol of a wine bottle! Cristina and Jorge shared their delicious homegrown yellow cherry tomatoes with us all, during the bocadillo-yogurt lunch at the hut.
La Estiva Refugio is a destination for students taking Mountain Guide courses. Apparently, the first team to arrive there on the final exam gets to drink the waiting bottle of wine. back at Solomonte HQ we'd seen their HUMUNGOUS wall map. It clearly showed the location of La Estiva, marked with the visible symbol of a wine bottle! Cristina and Jorge shared their delicious homegrown yellow cherry tomatoes with us all, during the bocadillo-yogurt lunch at the hut.
0 2025/02/02 10:10:07
Our goal was La Estiva Refugio hut, seen here in the distance. The mountain the distance is half in Spain and half in France.
Our goal was La Estiva Refugio hut, seen here in the distance. The mountain the distance is half in Spain and half in France.
0 2025/02/02 10:09:56
In the center, one can see the distinctive twin peaks of Los Astuzas (love that name). The leftmost twin is Gran Astuzas, which is 3080m. Its little brother Pequeno Astuzas is 'only' 3012. I mention these measurements to add some perspective. These are Tall mountains. Behind those twins is the popular ice climb 'Couloir Swan,' plus a tarn mountain lake.
In the center, one can see the distinctive twin peaks of Los Astuzas (love that name). The leftmost twin is Gran Astuzas, which is 3080m. Its little brother Pequeno Astuzas is 'only' 3012. I mention these measurements to add some perspective. These are Tall mountains. Behind those twins is the popular ice climb 'Couloir Swan,' plus a tarn mountain lake.
0 2025/02/02 10:09:29
We took a couple break stops. We learned that most mountains here have two names: Spanish and French - we were close to the border.
We took a couple break stops. We learned that most mountains here have two names: Spanish and French - we were close to the border.
0 2025/02/02 10:09:11
This was a remote area. The only other humans that we saw were some Moroccan timber crews.
This was a remote area. The only other humans that we saw were some Moroccan timber crews.
0 2025/02/02 10:08:53
Raquel pointed out this unique site: an ancient collapsed cave roof. Next: the Conclusion, with Ordesa Park proper, the Parador, Ainsa town and music.
Raquel pointed out this unique site: an ancient collapsed cave roof. Next: the Conclusion, with Ordesa Park proper, the Parador, Ainsa town and music.
0 2025/02/02 10:08:40
Mt. Perdido is one of 'Las Tres Sorores' along with Marbore and Soum de Ramon. Each of those enormous rock legends towers higher than 3000m and are featured on countless postcards, calendars, book covers and the like.
Mt. Perdido is one of 'Las Tres Sorores' along with Marbore and Soum de Ramon. Each of those enormous rock legends towers higher than 3000m and are featured on countless postcards, calendars, book covers and the like.
0 2025/02/02 10:08:30
After driving past Zapatierna, we kept going up and up. It was our windiest, and coldest daytrip yet. It was also the one with the most tricky driving. I tried to reduce my chirpiness to a minimum so that Raquel could concentrate behind the wheel. In this very stretch, an alert Mrs Z began to notice patches of dying/dead pines. An invasive species of butterfly had been nesting throughout. The firs and beeches seemed resistant so far. the poor pines not so much. A problem for forestry personnel.
After driving past Zapatierna, we kept going up and up. It was our windiest, and coldest daytrip yet. It was also the one with the most tricky driving. I tried to reduce my chirpiness to a minimum so that Raquel could concentrate behind the wheel. In this very stretch, an alert Mrs Z began to notice patches of dying/dead pines. An invasive species of butterfly had been nesting throughout. The firs and beeches seemed resistant so far. the poor pines not so much. A problem for forestry personnel.
0 2025/02/02 10:08:16
And it had a beautiful lake. The looming karstic landscape hinted at highlights to come.
And it had a beautiful lake. The looming karstic landscape hinted at highlights to come.
0 2025/02/02 10:07:57
In Espierba, we stopped at the embalse/dam. It was a surprisingly beautiful man-made site, with a marsh within a sizable lake.
In Espierba, we stopped at the embalse/dam. It was a surprisingly beautiful man-made site, with a marsh within a sizable lake.
0 2025/02/02 10:07:45
The Barraso and Cinqa (seen-kah) rivers were two of the gorgeous rios that we saw. Cinqa is the main course where the annual Navatas is celebrated. Hardy teams of rowers reenact the historic river voyages when lumber was moved towards markets in the era before roads.
The Barraso and Cinqa (seen-kah) rivers were two of the gorgeous rios that we saw. Cinqa is the main course where the annual Navatas is celebrated. Hardy teams of rowers reenact the historic river voyages when lumber was moved towards markets in the era before roads.
0 2025/02/02 10:07:11
0 2025/02/02 10:06:43
A repeat photo of Mrs Z, shown again so we can ID these high-profile mountains. Far R above her left shoulder: Pico Taillon/Balcon Pineta, which fronts the best hike in all the Pyrenees, the famous Breche de Roland gap. Above her right shoulder going R-L: Mt Marbore, Mt Cilindro, *Mt Perdido ('lost') and Soum de Ramon on the farthest left.
A repeat photo of Mrs Z, shown again so we can ID these high-profile mountains. Far R above her left shoulder: Pico Taillon/Balcon Pineta, which fronts the best hike in all the Pyrenees, the famous Breche de Roland gap. Above her right shoulder going R-L: Mt Marbore, Mt Cilindro, *Mt Perdido ('lost') and Soum de Ramon on the farthest left.
0 2025/02/02 10:06:12
...beautiful Cristina. Newlyweds? We were never told.
...beautiful Cristina. Newlyweds? We were never told.
0 2025/02/02 10:06:01
Our tourmates hailed from Guadalajara. They were handsome Jorge and...
Our tourmates hailed from Guadalajara. They were handsome Jorge and...
0 2025/02/02 10:05:51
This day's routing was: Usana van transfer to Escalona (Solomonte HQ) to use washroom/observe huge wall map/board the sturdy jeep. Then jeep with Raquel and our pair of new tourmates up to Bielsa (see map bottom R). Then ascend up the U-shaped Pineta valley to our terminus goal, the remote La Estiva refugio hut. Then reverse. For locals, this is a landmark mountain area, with a number of 'heavyweight' peaks exceeding 3000 meters.
This day's routing was: Usana van transfer to Escalona (Solomonte HQ) to use washroom/observe huge wall map/board the sturdy jeep. Then jeep with Raquel and our pair of new tourmates up to Bielsa (see map bottom R). Then ascend up the U-shaped Pineta valley to our terminus goal, the remote La Estiva refugio hut. Then reverse. For locals, this is a landmark mountain area, with a number of 'heavyweight' peaks exceeding 3000 meters.
0 2025/02/02 10:05:26
Back in Solomonte's Escalona HQ basement, Raquel and Juancho operate a climbing wall activity to train kids. One of those children is the daughter of the couple who own Usana's aforementioned Dos Arcos B&B.
Back in Solomonte's Escalona HQ basement, Raquel and Juancho operate a climbing wall activity to train kids. One of those children is the daughter of the couple who own Usana's aforementioned Dos Arcos B&B.
0 2025/02/01 12:29:27
In some parts, the Escuain Garganta ('throat' or gorge) rock face is streaked orange-black. That's why we made the fonts above so coloured. Coming here during shoulder season meant far fewer crowds at the less-popular parts of the park such as Escuain. We saw only two other tourists there. The Visitor Center's gal was glad to see we three. Among the wildlife displays there, was a *'quebrantahuesos' stuffed bearded vulture. Its wingspan was impressive up close! *German: 'lammergeiter'
In some parts, the Escuain Garganta ('throat' or gorge) rock face is streaked orange-black. That's why we made the fonts above so coloured. Coming here during shoulder season meant far fewer crowds at the less-popular parts of the park such as Escuain. We saw only two other tourists there. The Visitor Center's gal was glad to see we three. Among the wildlife displays there, was a *'quebrantahuesos' stuffed bearded vulture. Its wingspan was impressive up close! *German: 'lammergeiter'
0 2025/02/01 12:28:04
The pair of mirador lookouts here were closely-located. Bocastiello belvedere had puddles and was muddy. It's boulders nearby had plentiful once-seabed fossils. But the best views of these jagged limestone massifs were from Gratallera. The source of the waterfalls that feed the local rivers is a mountain cave located 1,000 m deep inside the cliff seen here. Above: Circo de la Sarra.
The pair of mirador lookouts here were closely-located. Bocastiello belvedere had puddles and was muddy. It's boulders nearby had plentiful once-seabed fossils. But the best views of these jagged limestone massifs were from Gratallera. The source of the waterfalls that feed the local rivers is a mountain cave located 1,000 m deep inside the cliff seen here. Above: Circo de la Sarra.
0 2025/02/01 12:27:44
Would this be a safe mushroom for folks to ingest?
Would this be a safe mushroom for folks to ingest?
0 2025/02/01 12:27:27
Escuain village is now attracting some folks intent on restoring buildings as holiday homes. During each fall season, they will continue to experience (as we did) annual 'transhumance' cow migrations, with sizable herds coming down from the mountains. You could hear their cowbells coming down en mase from Tozal de Raton for miles. Whereas France has laws disallowing dogs off-leash in mountain parks, here we saw local tourists allowing their pets to bark at the bovine migration.
Escuain village is now attracting some folks intent on restoring buildings as holiday homes. During each fall season, they will continue to experience (as we did) annual 'transhumance' cow migrations, with sizable herds coming down from the mountains. You could hear their cowbells coming down en mase from Tozal de Raton for miles. Whereas France has laws disallowing dogs off-leash in mountain parks, here we saw local tourists allowing their pets to bark at the bovine migration.
0 2025/02/01 12:27:01
We'd never seen this rare species before. Any ideas?
We'd never seen this rare species before. Any ideas?
0 2025/02/01 12:26:47
Higher elevations are often home to thorny plants, ones which result in excellent local honey. Bees must love these cliffs and canyons.
Higher elevations are often home to thorny plants, ones which result in excellent local honey. Bees must love these cliffs and canyons.
0 2025/02/01 12:26:29
See the 'witch's hat' chimney? Beware the evil eye. Btw, one could hear the Rio Yaga far below. No doubt it was utilized by locals in the past. Escuain's rare physiognomy means that it is the park's sunniest sector. The hard-working farmers of yesteryear, with their sweaty shirts and weathered faces would've valued a cool respite on hot summer days.
See the 'witch's hat' chimney? Beware the evil eye. Btw, one could hear the Rio Yaga far below. No doubt it was utilized by locals in the past. Escuain's rare physiognomy means that it is the park's sunniest sector. The hard-working farmers of yesteryear, with their sweaty shirts and weathered faces would've valued a cool respite on hot summer days.
0 2025/02/01 12:26:12
Escuain village is a ghost town right by the gorge. It was once a well-known butter-producing village. Folks would once barter butter for wine. A scattered collection of crumbling old buildings still exist, like the one shown below. Shown here is Escuain's historic church/mausoleum, its empty hutches the result of expensive rates that apparently drove historic farm families to bury and inter elsewhere.
Escuain village is a ghost town right by the gorge. It was once a well-known butter-producing village. Folks would once barter butter for wine. A scattered collection of crumbling old buildings still exist, like the one shown below. Shown here is Escuain's historic church/mausoleum, its empty hutches the result of expensive rates that apparently drove historic farm families to bury and inter elsewhere.
0 2025/02/01 12:25:53
Views and vistas.
Views and vistas.
0 2025/02/01 12:25:35
*Later in Belsierre, her high school classmate Oscar drove by in his new one-person vehicle! He owns the modern tourist rental village there. The smell of cow manure was extremely powerful in Puertolas above. But those of who were born on farms feel that a multi-sensory approach is essential to grasp the full experience. And seriously, it'd be a great education for kids.
*Later in Belsierre, her high school classmate Oscar drove by in his new one-person vehicle! He owns the modern tourist rental village there. The smell of cow manure was extremely powerful in Puertolas above. But those of who were born on farms feel that a multi-sensory approach is essential to grasp the full experience. And seriously, it'd be a great education for kids.
0 2025/02/01 12:25:23
En route to the gorge, we went via Puertolas village again (above). That began an uncanny trio of chance encounters for Raquel. First, we waved to her blue-eyed pal Nuria. She and husband are Puertolas' sole occupants off-season, raising cows and sheep. Soon after by complete fluke we bumped into Pep, Raquel's former classmate from Mountain Guide school. He was visiting his nearby vacation rental investment before returning home to Majorca. *Third coincidence below
En route to the gorge, we went via Puertolas village again (above). That began an uncanny trio of chance encounters for Raquel. First, we waved to her blue-eyed pal Nuria. She and husband are Puertolas' sole occupants off-season, raising cows and sheep. Soon after by complete fluke we bumped into Pep, Raquel's former classmate from Mountain Guide school. He was visiting his nearby vacation rental investment before returning home to Majorca. *Third coincidence below
0 2025/02/01 12:24:57
Ola Fodorites peoples. My name is Jesus and I am a Spanish mountain guide. You can now see the second installment of Zebec's Spanish Pyrenees TR over in the Spain section. Vamos!
Ola Fodorites peoples. My name is Jesus and I am a Spanish mountain guide. You can now see the second installment of Zebec's Spanish Pyrenees TR over in the Spain section. Vamos!
0 2025/01/31 18:28:18
A golden Bestue wall. The hamlet had a lot of traditional uneven slate work roofing. After leaving the hamlet, we later passed through a centuries-old stone enclosure wall in the wild. It'd once been used to store cereals to feed livestock. Once back home at our rental, Mrs Z created an ingenious remedy to our pesky 'Spanish fly' problem: a makeshift plastic bag trap that did the trick. No more annoying flies. I married a genius. Next: more music.
A golden Bestue wall. The hamlet had a lot of traditional uneven slate work roofing. After leaving the hamlet, we later passed through a centuries-old stone enclosure wall in the wild. It'd once been used to store cereals to feed livestock. Once back home at our rental, Mrs Z created an ingenious remedy to our pesky 'Spanish fly' problem: a makeshift plastic bag trap that did the trick. No more annoying flies. I married a genius. Next: more music.
0 2025/01/31 13:34:47
Afterwards we stopped in little Bestue, a sleepy Pyrenees village with outstanding views and much humanized landscape. I mean that it is known for its extensive farm terraces. This charming Bestue corner revealed a traditional bit of local architecture: the truncated stone chimney known as a witch's hat seen above. Those were once created by superstitious Pyrenees builders to ward off the approach of evil witches. The village vista's 'table' was actually a wide chunk of ancient sea fossil!
Afterwards we stopped in little Bestue, a sleepy Pyrenees village with outstanding views and much humanized landscape. I mean that it is known for its extensive farm terraces. This charming Bestue corner revealed a traditional bit of local architecture: the truncated stone chimney known as a witch's hat seen above. Those were once created by superstitious Pyrenees builders to ward off the approach of evil witches. The village vista's 'table' was actually a wide chunk of ancient sea fossil!
0 2025/01/31 13:34:33
There were no washrooms so...
There were no washrooms so...
0 2025/01/31 13:34:24
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