ginder

Hi Huitres,
I have read your trip report and I am glad to know that taking a young child with you can be rewarding. At the moment my plan is to go to Venice (5nights)drive to Pienza and stay at agriturismo (7 nights) then head to Sorrento (6nghts) But, my plans keep changing due to having a 3 year old with us. We will arrive in Mid-May in Rome stay near relatives in Rome, then move on by train to Venice. Your comments about taking a young child to Venice, have made me stop and think again. You went to Sorrento and around with a young child and from what I have read Amalfi coast seems harder to me. I can't believe how many times I am revising our plans. Your suggestion to others about Lucca, has me intrigued.
I had planned to visit where my parents grew up in Molise with my relatives, but, after reading about the area of ABruzzi, Puglia, I have the desire to spend more time there with a car.
Anyway, my plan could be train to Lucca-5 nights - maybe train to Genoa, Monterossa al mare-Overnight? Visit sights you mention.
What would you suggest, knowing the pace of a young child. Would you overnight? I would love to take a ferry to see the cinqueterre by boat. I couldn't find any info. on ferries doing this.
Any accomm.recommendations.
When the scedule mentions change trains somewhere, do you go straight to the train, do they announce anything in english? what platform to go to. Do you have to be quick?Do you store strollers above the seats or outside of train or can you take them on board if child is asleep?
(Huitres, your pace in travelling was pretty quick, obviously experienced)
After 5 nights pick up car and drive to Pienza (7) then Abruzzi, Molise and a little Puglia for (6).few nights Rome at end(3-4)
This is a first time visit to Italy, would this be just overkill? Will there be variety in scenery, attractions or too much Tuscany by stopping in Lucca, then on to Pienza. I would still like to overnight in San G.Pinch a night from Lucca maybe. As you can see, I want to see lots. Is a few days in Lucca okay?
It is a shame to think of leaving Venice out. it will be a long time before we could go back. Child will be a lot older.
Or would Verona and that area be better option? Too many questions, sorry.

Huitres

Hi Ginder:
Sorry for the slight delay with my response, I am not able to regularly keep up with my Fodor travel page browsing because I have been busy with work and traveling. I've been to Italy 4 times this past year and am woefully behind in posting trip reports (Milan in February, south of Rome in March, Cinque Terre/Monaco in May, and Sorrento/Amalfi Coast in September). I will have to do try and get those trip reports posted shortly. Ok, to your questions.....

I am a bit confused because you are mentioning so many places you want to go to. How many days will you have total for this trip? Re: Venice, I like the city very much, but there is so much water there that having to take vaporetti everywhere with a stroller, going up and down bridges and narrow walkways adjacent to water, and the risk of a curious child wanting to look at the water (fall in?) is just a bit too much worry for me. In contrast, Sorrento is high above the Marina Piccola and yes, it is quite a walk (or stroller) down the hill; however overall, I prefer it. I've found a couple parks in Sorrento where we play with other local children and enjoy it there. (We went in September for 2 weeks and are returning to Sorrento again at Christmas - leaving Dec 24!) As your plans are fluid now and you have some time before May, I would suggest creating a couple itineraries, then reviewing them and deciding which would be most feasible. A couple ideas would be to fly into Rome, then go N to Venice via train, stopping in Lucca, then go to the coast (W) and stop in Monterosso al mare (in the CT), then up to Genoa, ending in Venice. Or reverse it and start in Venice, head south via the Cinque Terre, stopping in Rome, then on to Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast. It makes the most sense to plan it geographically and will be easier to travel that way. I have never rented a car, public transportation has always worked for me (trains, busses, etc). Your 3-year old will be free of charge so that is one less worry.

Why Pienza? Is it to stay in an agriturismo? Also, you mean Abruzzo? Puglia is way at the bottom R of Italy. If you are intent on seeing those place, maybe you could concentrate on the S section of Italy this trip? For instance: Rome, then E to Abruzzo, S to Molise, then over to Sorrento, ending S in Puglia. Or perhaps do the N section of Italy: Venice, Genoa, the Cinque Terre, Lucca (?), and end in Rome. Or alternatively, just highlight the big cities (Rome, Florence, Venice) since this is your first trip to Italy. I went to Verona in May as a day trip from the Cinque Terre and loved it there. My little girl and I loved seeing Juliet's house, we walked out onto the balcony that Juliet stood on when Romeo was calling to her. We walked through all the rooms of the house; also visited the beautiful Roman Arena/amphitheater. We climbed up lots of steps to see great views over the neighboring streets and city below. Verona is very charming and nice.

Re: the trains, it is quite helpful to print out the train schedules you would like in advance. If you go to www.trenitalia.com, on the L side of the screen type in the starting city (i.e. Rome) and the "to" city (i.e. Venice) with the day you want to travel (i.e. May 17, 2006), it will pull up all the available trains going there that day. Get return times too in the reverse direction. Print those sheets out and take them with you. When you are at the train station, refer to the Departures train board, find your # train from your schedule, and it will give the binario (track) platform to go to. There is no English announced at the train stations (with the possible exception of Rome and some of the bigger cities); however, if you have the printed schedule with you, you can always inquire at the ticket office or read that board I was referring to. Note that most train stations do NOT have an elevator to get up and down the stairs to the platforms, etc. This can be a big pain with a stroller, small child, and luggage. For this reason, I recommend bringing a light-weight stroller that can fold down (the inexpensive kind found at Target, Walmart, etc for about $14-$16). You can fold it up while on the train and keep it next to you at the seat or down on the floor in the aisleway adjacent to your seat.

Let me know which travel option you are leaning towards - N or S Italy; and how many days total you will have. I can then assist you with further developing an itinerary with specifics to each city you would like to see and things that kids would like in those cities. Italy is very welcoming to children and you will find everyone helpful and nice, especially towards little ones. It is our favorite place to go to time and time again!

ginder

Dear Huitres
Thank you so much for your help. We have a total of 28 nights. We fly in and out of Rome, cannot change that.
In Pienza there is an agriturismo which sounds wonderful and I thought it would be a great time to relax. It is a sun to sun rental so it will end up in the middle.
We plan to stay in Rome and visit relatives close by for 4 nights.
Train to venice 5 nights, then pick up car and head to Pienza (7 nights) then drive to Abruzzi, Molise area and into Puglia are as far as Ostuni (8 nights) Doing a loop with the car and dropping car.(not sure where yet)
Because it will be a long time before we could afford the time and money to go to Italy again, we wanted to make the most of it. Also my and my husbands parents were born in Abruzzi and Molise and we would like to see it. Puglia is just around there and sounds great along the coast.
We don't plan to see a lot in Rome, just a few key things with relatives and that's all. We had initially arranged to go to Termoli in Abruzzi with relatives for the weekend when we arrive,but,we want more time there so now would like to go on own.
Sorrento area sounds wonderful, but, considering the time of year we go, it will be early June when we get to sorrento, worried that it will be just too busy for me to handle with luggage, child etc. So thought go to Abruzzi instead. Sorry Huitres, I want to see everything, but, in the end I just want to have a relaxing trip that is not too fast for daughter, and it is easy to find things she would enjoy doing and we get to see and do things too.
This trip is changing so much, I am confusing myself.

Huitres

Hi ginder: Thanks for your response. It sounds like you have arranged an itinerary that will work for you all. I am glad that you will be able to see relatives - spending time with family there is the most rewarding. Hopefully you will get a chance to see Puglia too. Let me know how that is, I would like to see that some day. That is great that you will have a car - that will make your traveling easier no doubt.

IMO, 5 nights (6 days) in Venice might be a lot. Maybe you would want to increase your Rome days since you will have relatives to visit there and a lot more sites to see? Rome is a fascinating city with a lot of things to do there. 3 or 4 nights in Venice seems like enough to see everything there, you can take the #12 vaporetto around the Grand Canal; also, a vaporetto out to the nearby islands of Murano (for glass blowing shops, souvenirs) and Burano (for lace-work souvenirs) makes a nice day trip. I went through the Doge's Palace with my little one and over the Bridge of Sighs. The history behind it and the stories I was telling my daughter about the place made it very interesting for her. Of course, the numerous pigeons all around the Piazza San Marco and the church were fun for her to chase around. Venice did not have many parks that I noticed, but there is certainly enough places to walk around and take vaporettis. We stayed near the Piazza San Marco in a B&B that was about 65 euros a night, including breakfast. I go for basic, no frills places and they work for me everytime.

Have a wonderful trip and do enjoy yourselves. Buon viaggio!

ginder

Thanks Huitres, I would be interested in knowing where you ate in Venice, your Lucca report was very good and other reports of venice restaurant meal prices have shocked me.
I am still toying with the idea of Lucca from Rome 1st instead of Venice. Not so far a drive to Pienza when we pick up car. Do you know anything about parking costs and where to park car(would probably have to pick up a car before sunday when we have booked Pienza agritursmo)
Collodi sounds like a nice place to visit.
I would love to bring home some pinocchio dolls as presents. Can you buy them all over italy, or are they special to certain places?(in case we don't go to Collodi)
A day trip to Genova seems like a very long day. Do you know of any places to stay in Genova close to Aquarium?
So I think I will be swinging between Lucca and Venice.

Huitres

Yes, the restaurants in Venice are expensive, but if you go off the beaten path away from the Piazza San Marco, you can find some nice, relatively reasonable places to eat. A couple places I have eaten at are:

"Trattoria da Bepi" in the Cannaregio area (Tel 011 39 041 528 5031) is a family-owned place that is very homey looking and rustic inside, don't let that fool you. The food is great - primi dishes are approx 8-11 euros/plate, with secondi (main dishes) from 10-19 euros/plate. The portions are good-sized as well. Also, you might try "Ae Oche" in the Santa Croce area (Tel 011 39 041 524 1161) for a more casual dinner. They have over 100 different types of huge pizzas that are only 7-9 euros each. One of my favorite places in Venice!

If you can't get to Collodi, you can certainly find Pinocchio souvenirs in Tuscany. I found little wooden Pinocchios hanging in many a shop in Lucca, Florence, Siena, etc. There are also childrens T-shirts, key chains, etc. The Pinocchio character is to Italy what the Disneyland characters are to the U.S. (IMO). You will find a lot of little knick-knacks of Pinocchio around!

I have always stayed in the Cinque Terre when visiting Genoa as a day-trip (I have taken a boat up to Genoa from Riomaggiore, as well as the train numerous times, and frequently flown into Genoa's Christopher Colombus airport) so I know the city fairly well. Re: a hotel in Genoa, friends of mine have stayed at the "Hotel Balbi" Via Balbi, 21/3 (Tel 011 39 010 252 362; [email protected]). It is very centrally located near the Principe train station, within walking distance to the port and Aquarium. While it doesn't look like much from the outside, inside the hotel are elegant frescoes on the ceilings and parquet flooring. I have heard that the staff is very friendly and accommodating. Double rooms with bath are approx. 50 euros. If I had to stay in Genoa, I would stay there due to its convenient location and price.

ginder

Hello Huitres,
Thank you for your information. Very helpful. I have found a small apartment next to Via Fillunga(?) that is 75 euros/night. Also a lovely B&B ai cipressi (very helpful)89 euros for triple, but outside the walls. 15 min. walk to train station, but, so is apartment about 20 min walk to train.
Not sure which to go with.
I think apartment may be better for us. is near via fillunga a good location?
Lucca sounds wonderful. We will arrive from Venice. Is it better to just take 2 trains from Venice? Venice-Florence-Lucca? or bus 2nd leg? Does it drop closer to apartment?
Sorry to bother you, but having trouble understanding bus timetables for region.
Ginder

ginder

I forgot to ask Huitres
how do I find out how to take a boat from Riomaggiore to Genoa. Sounds lovely. Is there a train to riomaggiore. Please elaborate.
weren't you going to Sorrento again around this time? Have you been or about to go?
I hope you have/had a lovely holiday.
Ginder

Huitres

Hi Ginder: Indeed, I was supposed to be in Sorrento for Christmas (today!) and New Year's but alas, I had to postpone the trip as my friends in Naples were going out of town. I will try to get back in the spring for another visit, if not before! Thanks for the holiday wishes - best to you too!

Re: Lucca, Via Fillungo is a large street that runs adjacent to the Roman amphitheatre and up to one of the city wall gates (the 'Porta dei Borghi'). It is on the opposite side away from the train station, towards the back of the city wall perimeter so a 25 minute walk may be a more accurate estimate from the train station. (You could always catch a cab outside of the train station to take you inside the city walls). The apt you found sounds nice and is inside the city walls, so I would recommend staying there - to make the most of your Lucca experience. IMO, it is kind of a hassle to have to go in and out of the city walls all the time if you were to stay at a hotel outside. (We did a year and half ago and it was quite a walk). Lucca is flat and easy to walk around in the city centre without the hills and steep inclines that most other Tuscan towns have.

Unless you want to take a bus, a train(s) from Venice all the way into Lucca would be a more convenient, easier option I would think. Also, the bus station in Lucca is at the opposite end of the city in Piazzale Verdi, not next to the train station. For the trains, I looked online at the trenitalia website for mid-May 2006 travel and found a 7:22 am train that leaves from Venice's main train station (Santa Lucia), makes a couple stops, arriving in Lucca at 12:45 pm. Likewise, there is a 10:32 am train that only stops in Florence, arriving in Lucca at 3:21 pm. (It's an ES, reservation-required train and gets there in 4 hours, 49 mins.)

Your 3 year old is going to love the merry-go-round in Piazza Napoleone in Lucca. My little one loves going on that, and I end up paying for at least 5 rides around! For more on Lucca, I just responded to another thread re: questions, restaurants, sites to see there, so won't re-type it all here (maybe you can refer to the thread)?

To take a boat from the Cinque Terre up to Genoa, you can catch the "5Terre" boats that leave from either La Spezia or Monterosso al mare (the northernmost, largest of the CT towns). The boat trip is specifically called the "Aquario di Genova" (Genoa Aquarium) and includes in the ticket price admission to the aquarium. It stops in Genoa's harbor for 4 hours, allowing enough time to visit the aquarium and also the "City of Children" (Citta dei Bambini) adjacent to the aquarium. I recall the price being under 20 euros for the ticket, which is quite reasonable and makes for a nice day trip. Here is the website of information, but they have not uploaded their 2005 schedule yet, you might want to check back: http://www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it/ (click on "Timetables" in the far L column, then "Aquario di Genova" in the next column).

There are trains leaving every hour to/from Genoa to Riomaggiore (9:12 am, 10:04 am, 11:03 am, 12:11 pm, etc) and the trip takes 1 hour, 50 mins. These same trains usually stop in all the CT villages, not just Riomaggiore, so check the train board for the stops beforehand. From Genoa's Principe train station, it is about a 15 minute walk down to the harbor toward your R.

Huitres

Oops! Re: the boats from the Cinque Terre to Genoa, I meant the 2006 schedule is not uploaded yet (not 2005!)

ginder

Hi Huitres
What a quick response.
With regard to bus, you mention that the bus station is at other end from Train station in Lucca. Would that mean it could be closer to the apartment near Via fillunga?
Just wondering?

Huitres

Hi Ginder:
Re: the train and bus stations in Lucca, I would say they are equi-distant to Via Fillungo, with the possible exception of the bus station in Piazzale Verdi being closer since it is already inside the city walls. (Picture Via Fillungo as if at the top of an upside down "V", with the train station being down the R side of the "V" at the end of the point, and the bus station on L side of the point). I don't know if that visual works, it's just that both the train and bus stations are south of Via Fillungo, so that is why I think they would be more or less equidistant. The Lucca train station is literally right across the street from the city walls (500 meters).

Did you find a bus from Venice to Lucca? Are you checking the LAZZI bus line schedules for Tuscany? Let me know what you find, I would be interested in knowing as I have never taken a bus between the 2 places.

ginder

Hi Huitres
I was thinking of taking a bus from Florence to Lucca. Where I got that idea, I don't know as I can't understand the bus timetables!!
Your info. is very helpful.Would prefer to stay closer to train station, but, can't find any reasonably priced apartments. Will keep thinking about it.
I gather the train station is not exactly within the walls, is that right?

Huitres

Hi ginder:
No, the Lucca train station is just outside the city walls (500 meters away). You basically exit the station and cross the large street in front and walk towards your L to the ramparts and city gate to go in. It took me about 15-20 minutes with my suitcase, stroller, and little one to walk to our hotel inside the walls last year. I myself like taking a train better because there are more options with schedules and times. However, going by bus might be more direct for you all without the stops. Have fun whatever you decide to do!

ginder

Hi Huitres
I am now having trouble finding an aparmtent that is available for the full time we are there!
Most prefer weekly rentals.
I will keep looking. Lots of people must know about Lucca.
Ginder

Huitres

Hi ginder: I am sorry I cannot help as I have always stayed in a hotel while in Lucca. You might check the venere.com website for apartment rentals. There may even be tourist-related information on the Lucca city site (on-line) that might list rooms that people rent out to visitors? I am really not sure, but that is where I would look. Good luck, let me know what you find!