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Holland America Line: Zaandam

Zaandam Cruise Review

Introduced in 2000, Zaandam debuted as Holland America Line’s tribute to music. In addition to the artifacts and memorabilia from a variety of musical genres that decorate the ship, a working baroque-style Dutch pipe organ, inspired by the traditional barrel organs still found on the streets of the Netherlands, is the centerpiece of the ship’s atrium.

Similar to Statendam-class vessels, these slightly larger sister ships have more playful design elements than Holland America Line's classic vessels. Triple-deck atriums have a fantastic—and fiber-optic-lighted—Murano-glass sculpture (Volendam) or an almost scary towering pipe organ (Zaandam).

The interior decor and much of the artwork found in each vessel has a predominant theme—Volendam centers on flowers and Zaandam around music. Look for Zaandam's collection of guitars autographed by the Rolling Stones and a saxophone signed by President Bill Clinton. The extra space in these ships allows for a larger specialty restaurant and a roomier feel throughout.

Holland America Line has enjoyed a distinguished record of traditional cruises, world exploration, and transatlantic crossings since 1873—all facets of its history that are reflected in the fleet's multimillion-dollar shipboard art and antiques collections. Even the ships' names follow a pattern set long ago: all end in the suffix dam and are either derived from the names of various dams that cross Holland's rivers, important Dutch landmarks, or points of the compass. The names are even recycled when vessels are retired, and some are in their fifth and sixth generation of use.

Noted for focusing on passenger comfort, Holland America Line cruises are classic in design and style, and with an infusion of younger adults and families onboard, they remain refined without being stuffy or stodgy. Following a basic design theme, returning passengers feel as at home on the newest Holland America vessels as they do on older ones.

What You Should Know


  • Ship movie theaters are also home to the Culinary Arts Centers
  • Waiters serve made-to-order entrées in the Lido restaurant at dinner
  • An evening poolside barbecue buffet is usually scheduled during each cruise


  • Expanded spa facilities make the gym area somewhat tight
  • There are no longer complimentary men’s and women’s steam rooms
  • Sandwiched between the Lido pool and Lido bar, the children’s wading pool area can become quite boisterous
Ship Stats
  • Crew Members 615
  • Entered Service 2000
  • Gross Tons 61,396
  • Length 781 feet
  • Number of Cabins 716
  • Passenger Capacity 1,432
  • Width 106 feet
  • New

Feb 12, 2017




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  • New

Aug 10, 2015


Our cruise/land tour to Alaska was wonderful--we thoroughly enjoyed it. It proved not to be a super relaxing, cruise, though. While cruising, we booked excursions in Ketchikan, Juneau, and Skagway and thus were constantly on the go. We could have relaxed more and not booked so many tours, but we'd never been to Alaska before and wanted to see as much as we could. The food was very good, overall. One evening our entree portions were extremely

small, but how can you starve on a cruise ship? We supplemented elsewhere. We probably should have just mentioned this to out waiters. Two of our dinner companions had food allergies, and we were impressed to see the extra care with menu planning--one day in advance throughout the voyage. Our dining room steward, Suyadi Gusti, was superb and treated us wonderfully at each meal. Our balcony room was clean, spacious, and we were well served with the people who made sure we did not lack for anything. We loved it! The activities seemed to be fine, though we didn't take part in that many extra curricular activities. We elected to get more sleep and be better prepared for our excursions. This trip was to celebrate our 50th wedding anniversary, and we had a grand time. Never having been to Alaska before, we thoroughly enjoyed exploring as much as we could. We took opportunities to see as many animals as we could.

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By Mike_CR

  • New

Jul 1, 2015

Alaska inside passage south

Planned a wonderful land sea adventure in Alaska for our 25th wedding anniversary. The land portion was very nice, but the sea was the worst cruise I have ever been on. If you want something to drink, you need to get it yourself as the help on the deck just walks by. Not a whole lot to do on board. Food was a real disappointment. We had really looked forward to some wonderful meals, but the main dining room was nowhere close to our expectations,

nor what we had received on other cruise lines. This was, by far, the worst vacation we had been on, and mostly because of Holland America. Average. Lido deck had nice verity. Pinacole grill was great. Main dining room was only so-so with very average food and small portions. Staff was not very attentive and could not keep track of who had what. The main cabin was fair, but the bathroom is in real need of updating. Very out of date! If you need to use outlets to charge things like phones or camera, you may want to bring your one power strip as there is ONE outlet in the room. We know it was a smaller ship, so did not expect too much, and that is exactly what we got. The nightly shows started good, but went downhill each night. The excursions were the best part of the trip. Lots to see and do, so take advantage of what you can. Chose Holland America for the size ship and ports it could hit, plus it had a land portion in Alaska which really appealed to us. First day in Anchorage was a waste due to late flight and missed connections. Holland America made all airline reservation, and they had us arriving at 11pm. We did not get in until 2:30 am. Started with two days in Denali which was fabulous. Train from Denali to Fairbanks was long, but a nice ride. Good food and drinks on the train. Embarkation at Seward was quick. Then the trip went downhill. A pipe broke in the bathroom the first morning flooding the bathroom and part of the main cabin. Repairs were made, but we were not moved to another cabin, but instead a powerful fan was put in the room to dry the cabin. That was there for two days. Three days into the trip, wife developed terrible sinus/lung infection and onboard doctor placed her in quarantine. That pretty much ended the cruise, as she was kept in quarantine for the remainder of the cruise. We were compensated for the inconvenience with $200 credit on future cruise. Treatment by onboard doctor with prescription medications and cough suppressant ended up making her much worse, and was hospitalized when we got home. Doctors at home say cause of serious lung infection was most likely due to mold in room from wet carpeting being blown around by the fan they put in room to dry the floor, and the cough suppressant which kept the bad crud in the lungs.

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  • New

Jun 1, 2015


Chose because of itinerary - ship in poor shape. Service appalling - food selection poor and line ups horrible. Rooms shabby - needs a good overhaul - bathroom was in very poor shape. The cruise was for an older clientele but the activities were non-existent and afternoons on board were so quiet and lack of activity. Will never cruise with HAL again. Line-ups for express breakfast and bacon was very thin - that microwave stuff - not

good bacon. No pizza ever - princess cruises always has pizza on all day. Long wait for hamburger from the Dive In - 40 minutes. Dining room meals very small and we don't have big appetites. Overall disappointing. We had a balcony - but the room was in need of repair and facelift. Very old looking and worn. Very repetitive entertainment in the evening show - dancing and singing just a different theme. Gold Dredge 8 was our favourite. If you can afford the flying excursions take them - it is the only way to see Alaska and Mt. McKinley and glaciers. Lack-lustre - will stick to Princess or Celebrity or R.C.

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  • New

Dec 24, 2014

Cape Horn eastbound

Zaandam Cape Horn Eastbound Nov.-Dec. 2014 I LOVED this cruise. The Chilean coast is like Alaska on steroids, and the ports of call are easy to enjoy on one's own. This is one of my favorites of the several dozen cruises I have taken in recent years. It is an itinerary that I had been postponing because I do not enjoy rough seas, but I finally tried it and am glad I did. The weather was kind and the scenery was great.

HAL (Holland America) did a fine job on almost every aspect of the cruise. I have elite status on some other cruise lines and enjoy those perks (free drinks, free internet, free photos), but I did just fine with HAL's mature, relatively sedate ambiance. For 14 days we cruised from Santiago (Valparaiso port), Chile, to Buenos Aires, Argentina, with the intervening days evenly split between ports of call and scenic cruising. My cruise did not include the Antarctic, which is available on the Zaandam's 19 day itinerary during the austral summer. The Zaandam was not full, and this enabled me to book a good price relatively late and to upgrade (for an additional reasonable price) to a mid-ship outside cabin on deck 2 for smooth sailing. I chose a port-side (toward the mainland) cabin to get the most from the views, but spent most of the scenic cruising outdoors rather than in my cabin. Bring warm clothes, including a winter hat, gloves, good quality rain gear, and dress in layers. Also bring your favorite motion-sickness medication. I needed no pills or patches at any time even though I am a weak sailor, but you may want them for yourself if the weather turns rough. We had only a mild pitch and roll on a few days. Much of the itinerary is in protected channels. The ship itself is about 15 years old with traditional decor, but it is very well maintained. Public lounges on decks 4 and 5 have been nicely modernized; and a culinary demonstration center, computer classroom, and internet lounge have been added since my last cruise on this ship a decade ago. Because of the great scenery, I especially enjoyed the wrap-around promenade on deck 3, the public balcony on deck 6, and access to the bow on deck 4 during scenic cruising. The HAL crew was absolutely top notch in every area and in every respect. The front desk was the best ever, the dining room staff was as good as (sometimes better than) on Silversea, the cruise director and her activity staff made sea days a pleasure, and the entertainment was thoroughly enjoyable. My cabin stewards were new to their job but were pros from day one. HAL trains their crew very well, both on the hotel side and the navigation side. I have been impressed by their emergency drills on previous cruises, including crew life raft inflation and entry exercises. HAL's attention to safety was especially important to me in this challenging part of the ocean with possible storms and several tender ports. HAL made a special effort to employ Latin entertainers, and they (and their American colleagues) did a fantastic job. I have become a bandoneon and tango addict, and now listen to that music daily. I especially liked the ship's lounge musicians, including the classical duo, because they were all pitch-perfect and not over-amplified. Dining exceeded my expectations. I have enjoyed the surcharged Pinnacle restaurant on previous cruises but enjoyed the main dining room so much that I did not use the Pinnacle on this cruise. I had breakfasts in the Lido buffet (a nice variety), lunch at the poolside grill, and dinner in the main dining room. The grill, with its great fries and garnished burgers, was a guilty pleasure; and the main dining menu always offered something that I really like. The prime rib, filet mignon, and lamb were especially good, and the appetizers and desserts always offered something attractive and enjoyable. There were three formal nights and most men wore suits or tuxedos. I brought a rain suit rather than a business suit, but the maitre 'd helped me out with a complimentary loaner jacket when needed. On sea days the Zaandam offered more than enough activities, some were silly fun but most were educational or enriching. I appreciated that the spa stretch and abs classes, the computer/digital photo classes, and the culinary classes were all complimentary. Many cruise lines now surcharge for these. HAL has a no-nonsense approach to alcohol, and the amount of alcohol one can bring aboard is limited to two bottles per cabin at embarkation only. Most cruise lines now seem to push alcohol sales in their promotions. Alcohol and casinos subsidize cruises for the rest of us, so I have no problem with either. HAL on the other hand seems to rely more on their land tours for their extra income. The passengers on this cruise were a mix of nationalities -- about 50% English-speaking, 25% Spanish-speaking, and 20% German-speaking. This made for a nice social mix, although it limited entertainment and enrichment options for non-English speakers. There is a shipboard port and scenic cruise commentator who provides useful information in English every day, but I wish our itinerary also had a naturalist. The 19 day Antarctic itinerary may include one. I used the Lonely Planet Chile and Argentina guides for my port days and for my pre- and post-cruise apartment ( stays in Valparaiso and Buenos Aires. Using public transportation, I was able to enjoy every port on my own for about 10 USD pp per day. Local buses and minibuses are modern and cheap, and they go to many of the same places as the organized tours. Again, the weather was very kind to us on this cruise, although brisk winds were sometimes a challenge for the tender crews. Because of the tender ports, this is definitely not an ideal cruise for the mobility impaired, although the crew were very kind and helpful to those who were. All in all, I highly recommend this cruise, especially for those who are adventuresome and have done the standard Alaskan and Caribbean cruises before. SCL Santiago airport transport ON YOUR OWN SCL airport in Santiago Chile has a large modern terminal with international at one end (near door 6) and domestic at the other (near door 1). Santander Bank has an office and ATM on the mezzanine level towards door 6 and several ATMS on the departure (upper) level near door 1 just outside domestic security screening. Fees are higher than most (about 7 USD regardless of amount). Local currency is necessary for public transport and is useful in later ports. Today's (Dec. 15, 2014) rate is 618 Chilean pesos per USD. Use oanda dot com or similar to check currency rates for Chile, Uruguay, and Argentina just before your departure. The Chilean peso has devalued about 2% in just the last month, and the Argentine peso is even more volatile. During the daytime there is a large Centropuerto bus leaving from outside door 5 at SCL to central Santiago (or to the Pajaritos metro station for a transfer to the Valparaiso buses). Based on recommendations, I chose to spend a few extra days in Valparaiso prior to the cruise and did not visit Santiago (both are nice). The Centropuerto buses leave every half hour and cost only 1500 CP (about 2.50 USD) for the 20 minute ride to Pajaritos, and probably a little more to central Santiago. The first bus leaves around 6am. I would take private transport if arriving at night (or wait till daylight inside the SCL terminal, where many others do near door 5). From the Pajaritos bus stop, walk around the bus station to the back side, where Tur and Pullman bus companies (both good) offer buses to Valparaiso every 15 minutes for 2700 CP (about 4.50 USD) for the two hour ride through absolutely beautiful countryside. I chose Tur, which offered the next bus departure (a double decker with awesome vineyard and mountain views). Long distance buses arrive at the Rodovario bus station in Valparaiso, on the east side of town about a 1 km south of the Muelle Baron cruise embarkation point. Local buses in Valparaiso are cheap and frequent, so one can stay almost anywhere or simply taxi to the cruise terminal. Valparaiso and Vina del Mar ON YOUR OWN For three days prior to the cruise I rented a beautiful 19th floor apartment in the Placeres area with fantastic coastal views from Valparaiso to Vina del Mar. It was a bit out of the way (in quiet and safe area residential) but had good local bus connections to both city centers (less than 1 USD per ride). I found it through airbnb. Valparaiso is an old port town, a bit ragged but fun. It is built on many hills above the flat port area, with historic funiculars still traveling up and down each hill. The colorful old town has been named a UNESCO world heritage site. The best way to enjoy the old town area of Valparaiso is via a Tours4tips walking tour which leaves each morning and afternoon from Plaza Sotomayor. See their website for details. Without them I would have had a hard time finding my way around the hills, although the flat El Plan area is easy to manage on one's own by bus or historic electric tram (about 400 CP = 65 US cents per ride). Many old buildings are abandoned, especially since recent earthquakes, but many decaying areas have been enlivened by large colorful murals. I found the city delightful. By chance there was a good classical concert and a folk dance convention while I was there. Just 20 minutes up the coast by local bus is the new and upscale Vina del Mar, where many rich Santiago residents have summer homes. I spent an enjoyable day in Vina. My recommended sights would be a long walk on the coastal boardwalk (the beaches are beautiful but the water is cold and dangerous), the central Vergara Park, and the north central Museum Fonck with Easter Island artifacts (Rapa Nui is a Chilean possession). These are about 1 km apart, so I simply walked. I also spent an entire day just enjoying my penthouse apartment (cheaper than a hotel) sipping some excellent Chilean wine from the balcony. In good weather the coastal views are breathtaking. Puerto Montt and the Lakes District ON YOUR OWN Puerto Montt is not attractive, but there is easy and cheap access to beautiful lakes and towns nearby. The ship tenders to the port district. The terminal has free wi-fi, best early or late when not crowded. To the left (west) as one exits is the Angelmo tourist street with many tourist souvenir stalls and a fish market at the far end. To the right (east) the large modern bus terminal is about 10 minutes walk along the shoreline. Frequent minibuses to the nice towns of Puerto Varas and Frutillar leave from the central bays every few minutes and cost about 800 CP (about 1.50 USD) for the 30 minute ride to Puerto Varas, on the shore of Lake Llanquihue. Some of the minibuses drive toward the port before turning off to the north, so you may be able to catch one as you walk to the bus terminal (destinations in the window). From a bus stop (ask the driver which one) in Puerto Varas one can continue on another minibus (leaves every 30 minutes, duration 60 minutes, 2500 CP , about 4 USD) along the south shore (views on the left) to Petrohue and the lake in the National Park. There is no park entry fee unless you stop along the way to view surcharged Petrohue Falls and then catch the next minibus onward to the lake, (fares are then split 2,000 plus 500 CP). At Petrohue I took an hour to walk along the lake shore. The views of snow-capped volcano Mt. Osorno were spectacular, especially with the pampas grass and blooming yellow bushes (Scotch Broom) in the foreground. There are boat tours to the islands in the lake, but these are overpriced and there is not enough time for the full round trip. One also has a view of Mt. Osorno from Puerto Varas town, but it is in the far distance. The town is geared to tourists and has nice roses in early summer, good tourist info, and nice shops. There are supermarkets across from the PM bus terminal and near the PV bus stop. After returning to Puerto Montt I walked through the Angelmo tourist area before tendering back to the ship. A fantastic day for about 10 USD. Puerto Chacabuco ON YOUR OWN PC was an intermittently drizzly day on our cruise. There is almost nothing in the town, but the local tourism board greets the ship with maps and info. Nearby is the larger town of Aisen (minibuses to there are about 500 Cp or 1 USD), and from Aisen there are large modern buses along the Rio Simpson valley to Coyhaique town (Ali or Suray bus lines; departures almost every 30 minutes, check schedule and reserve return trip once in Coyhaique with either bus line; 2,000 CP each way, about 3.50 USD; or 1,000 plus 1,000 CP if one stops midway at the waterfalls on the highway, Cataractas Virgen). Buses stop only at designated paradas along the highway. The bus trip is through a beautiful river valley (river and valley views on your right eastbound) and over some small mountain passes. Much of it is park land, but there are essentially no hiking trails (the trail near the waterfall is steep and slippery, and the nature walk at the nearby ranger station is of little interest). Coyhaique is on the main Chilean highway and serves as a supply station for adventure travelers in the area. It is relatively prosperous and has a good supermarket and megastore about 5 blocks from the bus station (Ali and Suray bus stations are around the corner from each other in both towns). The beautiful bus ride is the only cheap option in the area, but enjoyable. The local private nature reserve (Parque Aiken) was outrageously expensive a few years ago ($60 per person per day) and may be worse now. I found no wi-fi at the dock, but there was free wi-fi (slow) in the central Plaza in Coyhaique. Many restaurants in town also have (better) wi-fi. Punta Arenas ON YOUR OWN Tenders leave early to accommodate air tours to the interior, and one can report directly to the tender if one leaves early enough (they should announce this the evening before). Check the ship tour schedule for times. The town is absolutely dead in the early morning (most of South America starts late) and it is pleasant to walk in good weather. There are maps at the port to help you find the old cemetery (free and interesting)and the mirador overlooking the town. The central square has some fine old mansions, but these are museums now and do not open till later in the day. Most passengers take a tour to a penguin colony: Otway Sound is reached overland. At the dock private share taxis and shuttles charge about 35 USD pp for the round trip, plus the entry fee. Otway features only Magellanic penguins, which breed in burrows during summer (November to March). Tourist traffic has decreased the numbers here, but friends who visited liked it. Magdalena Island has a larger colony (and additional species, I believe) but requires a longer trip by boat, which can be rough. Neither Otway or Magdalena can compare with the penguin colonies in the Falklands, but sometimes (one in three) the ship has to skip the Falklands due to bad weather. I chose to avoid the crowds at these penguin colonies and after walking around the town booked a 1030 am bus and walking tour of Fuerte Bulnes, the historic settlement reconstructed at the southern-most tip of the SA mainland. This is enjoyable in good weather because the drive and the views from the point are beautiful. The best tour leaves from the park office just 2 blocks from the tender dock (from Av. Independencia turn right up Av. 21 Mayo and look for the yellow park headquarters building). The tour lasts 4-5 hours and costs 20,000 CP for the bus and the entry fee combined, about 33 USD (credit cards accepted -- I paid part with my last pesos and charged the rest). They have great free maps of the coast and Cape Horn as a bonus. The same office offers an earlier tour at 900 am that includes the town, but one can see those sights on your own and save 10,000 CP if you like to walk instead. Their website is (Parque Historia Patagonia)for photos and more info. They are a quality outfit, and I found them only by chance. Winds were so strong in the afternoon that the ship cancelled tenders for several hours. Always be aware that your plans may be changed by the weather. Ushuaia ON YOUR OWN On the eastbound itinerary one has only an afternoon and evening in Ushuaia, not enough time to do any hiking in nearby Tierra del Fuego National Park. There is a tourist info office at the end of the pier. Nearby is a taxi stand (prices are posted but ask for the meter if you prefer). About 100 yards beyond the taxi stand (left when facing the mountains) is the bus station, which has white Buses Regular going to the TdF NPark for 200 AP round trip (about 23 USD official rate, 16 USD blue market rate, dollars accepted if you are not from the cruise ship plus 140 AP for the park entry (pesos only). Unfortunately their return times are 5pm and 7pm, which does not allow enough time to see much or hike since all aboard is 730pm eastbound. Instead, I shared a taxi to the bottom of the ski lift above town (about 75 AP per full taxi by the meter) and then walked the wide and easy trail toward La Martial glacier. At the base of the snow fields is a spur trail to a panorama (mirador) with fantastic views over the town and the channel. I did not venture onto the larger snowfields with just jogging shoes and no way to arrest a snow slide. This was a somewhat steep but easy and very enjoyable trail shared by many young locals. One can usually find a taxi waiting at the bottom of the lift, or simply ask a local to drop you off on their way back into town, as I did. Ushuaia is where the Antarctic adventure cruise ships are stationed. A half dozen were docked near to us. With the exception of the Norwegian Fram, most were tiny in comparison with the Zaandam. I cannot imagine doing in a crossing in rough seas in ships as small as those, all of which are very very expensive. Maybe sometime in the future. Port Stanley, Falklands/Malvinas ON YOUR OWN About one in three cruises cannot anchor here due to bad weather. We had what our captain called the calmest weather he has ever had here. It was absolutely gorgeous -- sunny, warm, and clear. The tender ride is long -- 20 to 30 minutes depending how bad the weather is. Most passengers opt for a (rather expensive) tour by 4x4 to one of the outlying penguin colonies. Many book in advance, but there were tours available at the last minute ashore for those on the early tenders. On shore the tours cost about 160-180 USD for outlying large penguin colonies that feature a variety of species including the king penguin, the same colonies visited by the ship tours. Being a budget traveler, I opted to visit the smaller Magellanic penguins at Gypsy Bay, which is hiking distance from the pier. Alternately, starting at about 10am there are shuttle buses to Gypsy Bay leaving from the left side of the pier (facing town) for 20 USD round trip. The tourist info at the pier has maps of the area. I got ashore too early for the shuttles, so I walked (leftward facing town) along the coast sidewalk to the end of town, then along the road and coastline path to a small bridge over to the peninsula. The peninsula itself has the local airport (not visible from the walk) and some nice birdlife and grassy dunes. The total hike was about 2 hours to the Gypsy Bay penguin colony. Gypsy Bay Reserve has only Magellanic penguins. On previous cruise visits they hid in their burrows, but by the time we arrived in early December they were out and about, some walking within a few feet of our feet as they climbed between beach and burrow. The beach is off limits to visitors, but the views of the sea and coastline from the bluff are absolutely spectacular. I was so mesmerized that I spent 2 hours here walking back and forth along the bluff. Gypsy Bay is where the ship crew visits penguins -- they were as excited as we since this was the first time this season that the penguins were highly visible. I took the shuttle back to the pier, walked around town for a while, and tendered back to the ship. Apparently there is no free wi-fi in the town. One can buy a wi-fi pass for about 5 GBP. Montevideo, Uruguay ON YOUR OWN Fortunately Uruguay is included in the Lonely Planet Argentina guide, and it is an easy city to enjoy on one's own. US dollars are readily accepted, so it is not necessary to change money, but be aware of current exchange rates. Conveniently the ship docks next to the old town in the city center. On cruise days there is a heavy police presence, so one feels safe, but beware of pickpockets here and in Buenos Aires. Fortunately on the eastbound itinerary one docks here on Saturday when there are several flea/souvenir markets in the old plazas along the pedestrianized streets. Tourist information on the dock has maps of the old town. As one exits the pier to the right across the main boulevard is an old indoor market (Mercado del Puerto) which has been converted to steakhouse restaurants and cafes. There are quite a few small museums in town (Carnaval, Pre-Columbian art, Decorative art, etc.) but most do not open until the afternoon and some are closed on week-ends. Active visitors can rent a bike (ask at tourist information for addresses, some are near the pier, some near the waterfront, most do not open till mid-morning) and ride along the beautiful shoreline (La Rambla) to the greener (parks and money) eastern suburbs along the coast. Bike shops listed by the TI include Orange Bike, LV Bicicletas, Biking Uruguay, Movete, and Bike Tour Uruguay. There are fine beaches, but the Rio de la Plata is murky for swimming. Beware of sunburn! I also enjoyed a free 2-3 hour walking tour here (tips expected at the end, the student guides are thrilled by 5-10 USD pp) that meets in the large Plaza Independencia at 11am weekdays and 2pm Saturdays. Beautiful Punta del Este to the east and historic Colonia del Sacramento to the west are too far away for an independent day trip from the port. Buenos Aires ON YOUR OWN I have mixed feelings about Buenos Aires, but most Argentines do too. It can be a challenging but rewarding city to visit. The last time I was there I had such problems with the airport taxi mafia that I vowed never to return. This trip was my first time back in almost 40 years. The city and I have finally reached a detente. The ship docks in the container port in the NE corner of the city, about a kilometer from the main train (Retiro) and long distance bus stations. A free shuttle takes passengers between the ship and the passenger terminal. A helpful tourist info booth with city maps is inside the terminal, as is an ATM (but most prefer to get a much better exchange blue market rate, see below). Free wi-fi is available at the cafe inside the terminal if you get the password. The Manuel Tienda Leon airport shuttle bus office is conveniently located across the plaza from the Retiro train station. I spent a few extra days in BA in an apartment booked through airbnb. Since my apartment was close to the Basilica Santo Domingo (corner of Belgrano and Defensa), I took the service to the airport at the end of my stay, for 33 AP (less than 3 USD at the blue market rate) per person and per bag. It is a messenger service that charges the same rate for people as parcels, every half hour from 8am to 6pm only. There is a BA hop on-hop off bus tour that covers most of the city and (I believe) deviates to the port area when a ship is in, but I preferred to use public transport, which is extensive and very cheap. Buses cover most of the city but require an RFID type card (Sube card) which is available in convenience stores for 35 AP (about 3 USD) and can be loaded with value at metro stations. The metro (Subte) accepts the Sube card or cash (5 AP, less than 50 US cents per ride). There are several city bus stops just outside the port passenger terminal. We arrived early Sunday morning (eastbound) and had no local currency. The driver of bus #33 would not accept our cash and instead took us several kilometers to the famous San Telmo Sunday flea market for free, even making a special stop for us. From there we walked up the markets along Av. Defensa to city center at Plaza de Mayo. As a city Buenos Aires can be brutal, but individual Portenos like our bus driver are often very kind and helpful, just beware of pickpockets and dark streets. There are several free (for tips) walking tour companies. I chose BA Free Tours because they operate on Sundays and in the rain (we had two torrential rains in BA, more than the rest of the cruise put together). The morning walking tour of the beautiful Recoleta district starts at Teatro Colon and ends at the famous Recoleta cemetery near the best art museums, Bellas Artes (free) and MALBA (20 to 40 AP). The afternoon walking tour of the central (business and government) district begins at the National Congress and ends at the Casa Rosada and Plaza de Mayo. As in other cities, a 5 to 10 USD pp tip is greatly appreciated by the young guides. Tours are in English or Spanish, depending on departure time. I filled my extra days in BA using the Lonely Planet guide. There are many museums, parks, and tourist sights, most of which are open later than those in the US. Be aware that the colorfully painted houses in La Boca are just a short block long (a Caminito) and very touristy, with a rough surrounding nationhood. Locals feel that the sight is greatly over-rated. With enough time (at least three days) one can fly to Iguassu for the famous waterfalls at a fraction of the ship tour price. Round trip air from the downtown airport is 196 USD on LAN, which is reportedly more reliable than Aerolineas Argentinas for these flights. Hotels and guesthouses at the falls are available for less than 100 USD per night. A public bus runs between the town and the falls. The Argentine side of the falls is recommended -- the Brazilian side involves visa hassles. Finally, the Argentine Peso is (as I write this) officially pegged at 8.6 per USD for ATMs and credit cards and bank exchanges, but one can obtain 13-14 AP per USD on the street (the blue market). During business hours money changers line the Av. Florida pedestrian shopping street south of the Recoleta train station, about 2 km from the cruise port (unfortunately they may not be there Sunday morning when the ship docks eastbound). Just be aware that fake bills are in circulation, even from some bank ATMs. Each bill should have a watermark and any metallic print should be integral to the bill. I changed money with my apartment landlord, getting 12 AP per USD. Most merchants should offer close to the blue market rate when one buys something with US cash, and even international businesses insist on getting at least 13 AP per USD when doing business in Argentina, and the government accepts this. Check the internet for the latest official and blue market exchange rates. On this trip I found BA interesting and exhausting. BA and I have come to terms after all these years although I still refuse to take a taxi there. If you do, a metered radio taxi from a large company with the phone number on the taxi door is recommended. Happy cruising!

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