Yellowstone Park help with planning!
#21
Joined: Oct 2005
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http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&sour...9&ie=UTF8&z=10
if you look at that map, it says it should only take you an hour and a half one way. Don't trust that. It's slow going on these parts, what with all you get to see, the windy uphill climb, and the numerous stops you'll have.
Of course our time from 7:30 to 2:30 included coming from Mammoth, stopping at Cooke (or was it Silver City) for breakfast, and numerous stops along the way even though it was freezing cold outside, and of course the extra leg back down the mountain to Red Lodge. So perhaps you could do it for a day trip as long as you get a head start very early in the morning and don't stop for the many bison herds you encounter along the way in the Lamar valley area and eat in the car. Just make it to the zigzaggy bit right before Red Lodge. That would be the summit. You can even park your car and walk to it (we didn't because the mountain was covered with snow when we went and it was very windy up there). The other thing is, we went when it was cold. You're going during summer so the temperature outside won't be a deterrent. I can imagine stopping even more at the numerous lakes up there during summer.
I want to mention that during that drive from Mammoth out of the park that morning, we encountered 3 wolves right by the roadside before hitting the tower junction area. We watched them for awhile but stayed in the car with the windows up because we were scared they were going to jump into the car (I know, been watching too many movies). They were very cool though. We saw a coyote earlier on in the trip also in Yellowstone and the wolves are MUCH bigger.
if you look at that map, it says it should only take you an hour and a half one way. Don't trust that. It's slow going on these parts, what with all you get to see, the windy uphill climb, and the numerous stops you'll have.
Of course our time from 7:30 to 2:30 included coming from Mammoth, stopping at Cooke (or was it Silver City) for breakfast, and numerous stops along the way even though it was freezing cold outside, and of course the extra leg back down the mountain to Red Lodge. So perhaps you could do it for a day trip as long as you get a head start very early in the morning and don't stop for the many bison herds you encounter along the way in the Lamar valley area and eat in the car. Just make it to the zigzaggy bit right before Red Lodge. That would be the summit. You can even park your car and walk to it (we didn't because the mountain was covered with snow when we went and it was very windy up there). The other thing is, we went when it was cold. You're going during summer so the temperature outside won't be a deterrent. I can imagine stopping even more at the numerous lakes up there during summer.
I want to mention that during that drive from Mammoth out of the park that morning, we encountered 3 wolves right by the roadside before hitting the tower junction area. We watched them for awhile but stayed in the car with the windows up because we were scared they were going to jump into the car (I know, been watching too many movies). They were very cool though. We saw a coyote earlier on in the trip also in Yellowstone and the wolves are MUCH bigger.
#23
Joined: Nov 2007
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We just drove the Beartooth from Red Lodge to Gardiner 2 weeks ago.We saw 4 bears between Silver Gate and Roosevelt Junction.That was the only time we saw any bears in the 10 days we were in the Yellowstone area.It took us about 2 1/2 to 3 hours to drive from Red Lodge to the NorthEast entrance and we stopped a lot.
Also I wanted to mention that the absolutely worse meal we had in 2 1/2 weeks traveling was at The Old Faithful Inn dining room. It was also very expensive. Now I don't mind expensive if the food is good but it was just terrible. A great place to eat in the Old Faithful area is the General Store next to the gas station. It is apparently the only place to eat not run by Xanterra.
Also I wanted to mention that the absolutely worse meal we had in 2 1/2 weeks traveling was at The Old Faithful Inn dining room. It was also very expensive. Now I don't mind expensive if the food is good but it was just terrible. A great place to eat in the Old Faithful area is the General Store next to the gas station. It is apparently the only place to eat not run by Xanterra.
#24
Joined: Oct 2005
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"A great place to eat in the Old Faithful area is the General Store next to the gas station. It is apparently the only place to eat not run by Xanterra."
That's funny letsgo39 and my sentiments exactly. We too ate at Oldfaithful Inn the last time and for the amount they charge, the food was blaaaaaaaaand. It's an experience though, that's why we did it again this time around. What we liked to do in the park lodges was take our bottle of wine or spot of whiskey (bought from outside the park) and hang out in the sitting area after dinner and play cards so make sure you guys bring a board game or at least a deck of cards leeam and travelpoor, if you like doing that sort of thing. drinks optional, of course.
That's funny letsgo39 and my sentiments exactly. We too ate at Oldfaithful Inn the last time and for the amount they charge, the food was blaaaaaaaaand. It's an experience though, that's why we did it again this time around. What we liked to do in the park lodges was take our bottle of wine or spot of whiskey (bought from outside the park) and hang out in the sitting area after dinner and play cards so make sure you guys bring a board game or at least a deck of cards leeam and travelpoor, if you like doing that sort of thing. drinks optional, of course.
#25
Joined: Feb 2008
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This is a great thread. Thanks leeam for starting it. I love hearing about all the animal spottings + the food tips. The comment about the wolves jumping into the car is still making me laugh! Maria_so, were you also wearing a red cape that day?
So, I'm thinking we'll do the Beartooth in a day - or make it an out 1 day, spend the night, and back the next. Any other suggestions are welcome.
I was trying to figure out a way to stay at Jenny Lake Lodge for a night or two, but I think I've tossed out the idea - too much of a budget buster.
So, I'm thinking we'll do the Beartooth in a day - or make it an out 1 day, spend the night, and back the next. Any other suggestions are welcome.
I was trying to figure out a way to stay at Jenny Lake Lodge for a night or two, but I think I've tossed out the idea - too much of a budget buster.
#27
Joined: Jan 2008
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We also had breakfast and dinner at the Old Faithful Inn and we considered them both overpriced for the quality; I don't even remember what we had for dinner. They weren't poor just expensive. But I figured we were paying for the history, ambience, and general experience. So yes I'd do it again. But yes I was a bit disappointed. (Our two favorite meals of the trip I reported on on another thread were not in Yellowstone but in Custer State Park Hunting Lodge and the Arizona Room at Bright Angel Lodge at the Grand Canyon.) Generallly felt food in Yellowstone was overpriced for quality but we weren't there for the food. (Good thing!)
#28
Joined: Oct 2005
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I agree, breakfast by the gas station in old faithful area was delish but the line was long to grab a seat.
The wine bar is called Bridge Creek Backcountry kitchen and Wine Bar..I looked it up and yes, you should be able to take the kids because it's also a "kitchen". We shared the spinach salad with almonds in their rosmary cream dressing and a pasta dish with onions, mushrooms, and chicken. Really good. Here's a link. http://www.eatfooddrinkwine.vcn.com/
If you or hubby is into brewskies, the red lodge brewery is just up the street on main street but that one you can't take the kids to. They only let you do 3 tastings (good thing too) but the beer is really yummy. My favorite was their brown ale. http://www.redlodgeales.com/
I wanted to stay close to the main area of main street so we could just walk there so we stayed at the Yodeler motel. It was ok, typical motel with a mini fridge and microwave but the price was decent and for an overnight stay, it did just fine. If you do decide to stay here, ask for an "upstairs" room or a second floor room. I heard the first floor rooms felt like being in the basement. The upstairs ones were just fine. http://www.yodelermotel.com/
I wonder why it took us longer to get to red lodge from mammoth area? We did stop for the wolves (haha, I'm desperately hoping that I DID have at least something red on), for breakfast, and several pics along the way but it doesn't explain 2 1/2 hrs for letsgo and 6 for us. I know we had snow cover but the road was fine. Maybe we were just more careful because of the ice on the roads....who knows.
I was reading the book "Death in Yellowstone" which we got from a bookstore in JH. I think the chapter "death by wild life" made me more cautious and thought the wolves would try to jump in the car! Another great read that we got in the same bookstore, BTW, is "Lost in Your Own Backyard: A Walk in Yellowstone National Park".
The wine bar is called Bridge Creek Backcountry kitchen and Wine Bar..I looked it up and yes, you should be able to take the kids because it's also a "kitchen". We shared the spinach salad with almonds in their rosmary cream dressing and a pasta dish with onions, mushrooms, and chicken. Really good. Here's a link. http://www.eatfooddrinkwine.vcn.com/
If you or hubby is into brewskies, the red lodge brewery is just up the street on main street but that one you can't take the kids to. They only let you do 3 tastings (good thing too) but the beer is really yummy. My favorite was their brown ale. http://www.redlodgeales.com/
I wanted to stay close to the main area of main street so we could just walk there so we stayed at the Yodeler motel. It was ok, typical motel with a mini fridge and microwave but the price was decent and for an overnight stay, it did just fine. If you do decide to stay here, ask for an "upstairs" room or a second floor room. I heard the first floor rooms felt like being in the basement. The upstairs ones were just fine. http://www.yodelermotel.com/
I wonder why it took us longer to get to red lodge from mammoth area? We did stop for the wolves (haha, I'm desperately hoping that I DID have at least something red on), for breakfast, and several pics along the way but it doesn't explain 2 1/2 hrs for letsgo and 6 for us. I know we had snow cover but the road was fine. Maybe we were just more careful because of the ice on the roads....who knows.
I was reading the book "Death in Yellowstone" which we got from a bookstore in JH. I think the chapter "death by wild life" made me more cautious and thought the wolves would try to jump in the car! Another great read that we got in the same bookstore, BTW, is "Lost in Your Own Backyard: A Walk in Yellowstone National Park".
#30
Original Poster
Joined: Jul 2008
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Wow, I am getting so much info. I love it! I am definately going to drive the Beartooth Hwy. The first night we are in Roosevelt Lodge we are doing the chuck wagon dinner, the next day, we are doing the horseback riding which will take us until about noon. Think I will leave for Beartooth after lunch (originally was going to head South and go back to Jax Hole) but rethinking now. We could leave after lunch, stay overnight and then head back the next day. We have allowed about 10 days for the trip, so we have the time. I will look into this. Travelpoor, I tried several times to call xanterra yesterday about the highway being closed but it was busy every time, will try later. I am a bit disappointed about what I am hearing re: the quality of food, we LOVE to eat GOOD (GREAT) food, but again, when everything is run by one company you are ultimately going to find that and like someone else commented, you are there for the experience of Yellowstone, not so much the food. I am sure we will have wonderful meals in Jax. Hole. Last summer we toured OR. and fell in LOVE not only with the state but the food as well, we didn't have one "good" meal all 2 weeks, they were all exceptional! My Mom and I love wine bars and my husband and Dad will enjoy the brewery so adding that to my "Yellowstone foler"! Thanks everyone!!!!!!
#31
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 28
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Maria, I think I'll wait until AFTER our trip to read the "death" books. I'm already nervous about hiking knowing that there are grizzlies in the woods!! Thanks for the brewery tip too. I hold out for the wine, but my husband is definitely a beer guy.
Leeam, we love great food too, but too much of it during vacation makes me feel sluggish and generally icky. Plus, the price of this trip is adding up quickly, so I think we're gonna try to eat cheap this time. I would like to leave some room for 2 really nice dinners though.
I think I've figured out a way to do the Beartooth. Its a looong day, but I think it will work . . . here it is -
Leave Roosevelt Lodge early in the morning and drive the Beartooth to Red Lodge. Mapquest says 2:20 from Tower Junction to Red Lodge - I figure 4 hours due to stops, etc.
After lunch in Red Lodge, drive 1:15 to Cody. Tour Buffalo Bill museum and hang out for a few hours.
Drive back to Roosevelt lodge via the Chief Joseph Highway. Mapquest says 2:27. I'll plan for 4.
Is that insane? I think I'd rather have a long day like this than have to pack up and spend the night somewhere en route.
What do you guys think?
Leeam, we love great food too, but too much of it during vacation makes me feel sluggish and generally icky. Plus, the price of this trip is adding up quickly, so I think we're gonna try to eat cheap this time. I would like to leave some room for 2 really nice dinners though.
I think I've figured out a way to do the Beartooth. Its a looong day, but I think it will work . . . here it is -
Leave Roosevelt Lodge early in the morning and drive the Beartooth to Red Lodge. Mapquest says 2:20 from Tower Junction to Red Lodge - I figure 4 hours due to stops, etc.
After lunch in Red Lodge, drive 1:15 to Cody. Tour Buffalo Bill museum and hang out for a few hours.
Drive back to Roosevelt lodge via the Chief Joseph Highway. Mapquest says 2:27. I'll plan for 4.
Is that insane? I think I'd rather have a long day like this than have to pack up and spend the night somewhere en route.
What do you guys think?
#32
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 72
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Hi travelpoor: We had your same itinerary for driving the Beartooth and Chief Jos. Highway. Unfortunatly for us, the Roosevelt Cookout was the same day, and so we were rushed. Couldn't do the Chief Jos. Highway. But in the research I did beforehand, it is definitely worth the detour. You will enjoy it.
We, too, found the food at the Old Faithful Inn below average. We found the best food at Roosevelt Lodge and at the general stores in the park. We love to eat, but not spend big bucks on tiny portions of average to below-average food. We also liked talking with the employees about how/why they came to work there. Since nobody in Yellowstone lives there, everyone is a tourist/visitor and we made friends just by asking, "So, where are you folks from?". I could go on and on...we just loved Yellowstone.
We, too, found the food at the Old Faithful Inn below average. We found the best food at Roosevelt Lodge and at the general stores in the park. We love to eat, but not spend big bucks on tiny portions of average to below-average food. We also liked talking with the employees about how/why they came to work there. Since nobody in Yellowstone lives there, everyone is a tourist/visitor and we made friends just by asking, "So, where are you folks from?". I could go on and on...we just loved Yellowstone.
#33
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 28
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Do the general stores have places to sit and eat, or are you grabbing sandwiches to go? I would love suggestions on how to keep our meal prices in check.
Someone mentioned the general store by the gas station near Old Faithful. What about Roosevelt Lodge and the Lake Lodge? Are there alternatives there as well?
We do plan to do the chuckwagon dinner at Roosevelt. We're not meat eaters, so I'm hoping there is a seafood (or at least chicken) alternative.
Thanks!
Jodie
Someone mentioned the general store by the gas station near Old Faithful. What about Roosevelt Lodge and the Lake Lodge? Are there alternatives there as well?
We do plan to do the chuckwagon dinner at Roosevelt. We're not meat eaters, so I'm hoping there is a seafood (or at least chicken) alternative.
Thanks!
Jodie
#34
Joined: Oct 2005
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the roosevelt lodge food was better than old faithful, imo, but still not great. i didn't have lunch or dinner at the grocery store near old faithful, just breakfast and in that particular one, you can sit down but go early before you get hungry. the lines for the tables (or even just a seat in the bar in usually long).
travelpoor, it will be a long day but hey, you're on vacation! that area has so many to offer, pack it in for a day, see everything you can. i say go for it, just don't plan on anything that you have to get to a certain time that evening so you're not rushing.
i saw that the red lodge ale company has now expanded and they also have a restaurant so perhaps you can take the kids too. sam's tap room still only allows only 3 tastings (for $5 when we were there) but because of the restaurant, looks like you can order more.
leeam, your plan sounds good (sigh, i wish i was going too) but i also think the mindset you have about food is good. now that you know about the food quality, save up for a couple of really good meals. Snake River Grill in JH should be one of them. On our last trip late Aug/early Sept last year was during our 1st year anniversary (which we want to spend at national parks each year). anyway, we did an overnight kayaking trip in the tetons with oars for when our actual anniversary is but Snake River Grill was where we had our anniversary dinner. It wasn't my first time there but it still didn't disappoint. Nice atmosphere and incredible food. We like game food but they also had chicken, fish, and pasta.
have a fun trip! i am really envious!
travelpoor, it will be a long day but hey, you're on vacation! that area has so many to offer, pack it in for a day, see everything you can. i say go for it, just don't plan on anything that you have to get to a certain time that evening so you're not rushing.
i saw that the red lodge ale company has now expanded and they also have a restaurant so perhaps you can take the kids too. sam's tap room still only allows only 3 tastings (for $5 when we were there) but because of the restaurant, looks like you can order more.
leeam, your plan sounds good (sigh, i wish i was going too) but i also think the mindset you have about food is good. now that you know about the food quality, save up for a couple of really good meals. Snake River Grill in JH should be one of them. On our last trip late Aug/early Sept last year was during our 1st year anniversary (which we want to spend at national parks each year). anyway, we did an overnight kayaking trip in the tetons with oars for when our actual anniversary is but Snake River Grill was where we had our anniversary dinner. It wasn't my first time there but it still didn't disappoint. Nice atmosphere and incredible food. We like game food but they also had chicken, fish, and pasta.
have a fun trip! i am really envious!
#35
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 444
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lovetorv,
There are some year around residents in Yellowstone. They live at Mammouth which is the park headquarters.Only the entrance at Gardiner is open year around.We really enjoyed our condo rental in Gardiner at the Yellowstone Village Inn.It is right at the North entrance and a nice alternative to staying in the park as they have an indoor pool that our Grandson really enjoyed.I'm not really into rustic so although our 1 night at the Old faithful Inn was fun I actually prefer to stay outside the park.
maria-s,
My time estimate from Red Lodge was to Silver Gate,not Roosevelt Junction.That did take us at least another 2 hours or so because we stopped so much. We also stayed at the Yodeler Motel in Red Lodge. It's nothing fancy but reasonable price and fine for 1 night. I agree to ask for the 2nd floor or you will be in the basement.
We had a great breakfast in Red Lodge at the Cafe Regis.The food was fantastic. The French Scrambled Eggs were just wonderful as was the French Toast with fresh fruit.
The pig races in Red Lodge were fun but the food there was not great.I would go to the pig races again,a real hoot,but not eat dinner there again.
There are some year around residents in Yellowstone. They live at Mammouth which is the park headquarters.Only the entrance at Gardiner is open year around.We really enjoyed our condo rental in Gardiner at the Yellowstone Village Inn.It is right at the North entrance and a nice alternative to staying in the park as they have an indoor pool that our Grandson really enjoyed.I'm not really into rustic so although our 1 night at the Old faithful Inn was fun I actually prefer to stay outside the park.
maria-s,
My time estimate from Red Lodge was to Silver Gate,not Roosevelt Junction.That did take us at least another 2 hours or so because we stopped so much. We also stayed at the Yodeler Motel in Red Lodge. It's nothing fancy but reasonable price and fine for 1 night. I agree to ask for the 2nd floor or you will be in the basement.
We had a great breakfast in Red Lodge at the Cafe Regis.The food was fantastic. The French Scrambled Eggs were just wonderful as was the French Toast with fresh fruit.
The pig races in Red Lodge were fun but the food there was not great.I would go to the pig races again,a real hoot,but not eat dinner there again.
#36
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 444
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Travelpoor
You might consider spending the night in Cody. If you do stay at the Cody Cowboy Village. It's ranked number 1 on TA and is a great place to stay. If you are into horseback riding just up the road from Cody Cowboy Villge toward the park is a place called Cedar Mountain Trail Rides. They have 1 and 2 hour rides and the view from the top of Cedar Mountain is fantastic. I have horses and thought this place did a great job.I think you are trying to do way to much in 1 day with the plan you have now.The Cody Cowboy Village has a lovely outdoor,pool size hot tub that we really enjoyed. They also have the very best beds that we experienced in 2 1/2 weeks of travel. The rooms are adorable log cabins just beautifully decorated and include a very nice continenetal breakfast.Check it out on Tripadvisor. It is a place worth staying at and it would give you more time to enjoy Cody..
You might consider spending the night in Cody. If you do stay at the Cody Cowboy Village. It's ranked number 1 on TA and is a great place to stay. If you are into horseback riding just up the road from Cody Cowboy Villge toward the park is a place called Cedar Mountain Trail Rides. They have 1 and 2 hour rides and the view from the top of Cedar Mountain is fantastic. I have horses and thought this place did a great job.I think you are trying to do way to much in 1 day with the plan you have now.The Cody Cowboy Village has a lovely outdoor,pool size hot tub that we really enjoyed. They also have the very best beds that we experienced in 2 1/2 weeks of travel. The rooms are adorable log cabins just beautifully decorated and include a very nice continenetal breakfast.Check it out on Tripadvisor. It is a place worth staying at and it would give you more time to enjoy Cody..
#37
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,690
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oh i missed the pig races!!!! i really wanted to go to that but when we got there, they had stopped doing them for the season. will definitely try that next time, it sounded fun!
that explains it! sorry, i thought that was to the tower junction.
we were doing a hike around colter bay early one morning and the rangers have said there've bee sightings of bears in the area. the whole entire hike i would call out "we're here bears. just to let you know." DH thought I was mad and I fekt mad...just a little, but it also felt better. Good idea to read the death in yellowstone book after the trip travelpoor.
that explains it! sorry, i thought that was to the tower junction.
we were doing a hike around colter bay early one morning and the rangers have said there've bee sightings of bears in the area. the whole entire hike i would call out "we're here bears. just to let you know." DH thought I was mad and I fekt mad...just a little, but it also felt better. Good idea to read the death in yellowstone book after the trip travelpoor.
#38
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 444
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Travelpoor
You might consider spending the night in Cody. If you do stay at the Cody Cowboy Village. It's ranked number 1 on TA and is a great place to stay. If you are into horseback riding just up the road from Cody Cowboy Villge toward the park is a place called Cedar Mountain Trail Rides. They have 1 and 2 hour rides and the view from the top of Cedar Mountain is fantastic. I have horses and thought this place did a great job.I think you are trying to do way to much in 1 day with the plan you have now.The Cody Cowboy Village has a lovely outdoor,pool size hot tub that we really enjoyed. They also have the very best beds that we experienced in 2 1/2 weeks of travel. The rooms are adorable log cabins just beautifully decorated and include a very nice continenetal breakfast.Check it out on Tripadvisor. It is a place worth staying at and it would give you more time to enjoy Cody..
You might consider spending the night in Cody. If you do stay at the Cody Cowboy Village. It's ranked number 1 on TA and is a great place to stay. If you are into horseback riding just up the road from Cody Cowboy Villge toward the park is a place called Cedar Mountain Trail Rides. They have 1 and 2 hour rides and the view from the top of Cedar Mountain is fantastic. I have horses and thought this place did a great job.I think you are trying to do way to much in 1 day with the plan you have now.The Cody Cowboy Village has a lovely outdoor,pool size hot tub that we really enjoyed. They also have the very best beds that we experienced in 2 1/2 weeks of travel. The rooms are adorable log cabins just beautifully decorated and include a very nice continenetal breakfast.Check it out on Tripadvisor. It is a place worth staying at and it would give you more time to enjoy Cody..
#40
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 28
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Maria, your posts make me laugh! We're planning on doing the 2 night OARS kayak trip as well. I'm curious to know what you thought of it.
Letsgo39, thanks for the tip about Cody. I'll think about a night there - just trying not to change hotels too many times.
I just got off the phone making reservations with Xanterra. I couldn't get all 3 nights at Roosevelt in a cabin w/bath, so one of the nights I booked at Mammoth. I'm hoping something will open up since currently we're doing a lot of hopping around. Heres the revised schedule -
Nights 1,2 Old Faithful Snow Lodge
Night 3 Mammoth Hot Springs
Nights 4,5 Roosevelt Lodge room w/bath
Night 6 Lake Yellowstone lodge
Nights 7,8 OARS kayak trip
Night 9 Jenny Lake Lodge (if I win the lottery)
Nights 10,11 Trapper Inn, Jackson
Done!
Jodie
Letsgo39, thanks for the tip about Cody. I'll think about a night there - just trying not to change hotels too many times.
I just got off the phone making reservations with Xanterra. I couldn't get all 3 nights at Roosevelt in a cabin w/bath, so one of the nights I booked at Mammoth. I'm hoping something will open up since currently we're doing a lot of hopping around. Heres the revised schedule -
Nights 1,2 Old Faithful Snow Lodge
Night 3 Mammoth Hot Springs
Nights 4,5 Roosevelt Lodge room w/bath
Night 6 Lake Yellowstone lodge
Nights 7,8 OARS kayak trip
Night 9 Jenny Lake Lodge (if I win the lottery)
Nights 10,11 Trapper Inn, Jackson
Done!
Jodie

