dmpalena

I'm starting to do some research for a vacation out west next summer. I so want to see the Arizona/Utah area (Sedona, Grand Canyon, Bryce, Zion, Capitol Reef) and we will have a good amount of time to spend, perhaps two weeks in all. My family and I are not really "hikers", but I wonder if the weather will be an issue. We also have considered Yellowstone/Grand Teton and maybe over to Mt. Rushmore, but I can't seem to get as excited about that itinerary. Any advice? Would so appreciate any feedback you could give me.
We've been to Yosemite and "fell in love". There's a lot of beauty out west and we would love to see it all! Thanks for the help!

utahtea

With two weeks you can see a lot of the southwest. I'd add Lake Powell to your list. Yes, August is going to be hot. You don't have to do a lot of hiking to enjoy these parks, but you will want to do some. I don't like heat, but the dry heat just doesn't bother me like the humid heat does.

Yellowstone is truly a wonderful place. I love Utah, but I think my favorite all time National Park would be Yellowstone. There is just so much varitiy and it's truly a unique place to visit. With 2 weeks, I think I'd be more incline to go up to Glacier than Mt. Rushmore.

Utahtea

Norden1

Your decision is like choosing which of your kids you like the best. My advice would be to plan for two separate vacations, one for Utah & Arizonia. Next
would be the Yellowstone, Glacier, and
Mount Rushmore.Not many Natl Parks that I haven't been to and they are all unique in their own way

ccrosner

We have done both trips with our family in the past four years. Both in late August. Both terrific although very different. And although the weather in Utah/Arizona was hot, we did fine. And we come from muggy, cooler Boston!

I agree that two trips are in order and you might want to make the determination based on which parks you can get in-park reservations in now (given that you don't hike, I'm guessing that you won't be camping). My strongest recommendation for staying in the parks would be for Bryce, GC and Yellowstone.

If you search on my screenname and scroll backwards to September 2004, you'll find my UT/AZ trip report. Don't know if my September 2001 trip report of YNP/GTNP would still come up.

Either way, you're in for a treat!

asdaven

Yellowstone/Grand Teton would be an execellent choice. If you do that, you need to spend a least a week between the two, especially Yellowstore because it is such a big park. Zion and Bryce is also a good choice, Zion can get pretty hot, but Bryce usally stays cool. Definetly you see Capitol Reef, it is so scenic and peaceful. Grand Canyon is a must-see also. Utah definetly has some of the best scenery. I would also consider Arches/Canyonlands National Parks in eastern Utah. Canyonlands is huge, but you really only need to see the Island in the Sky district which is the most car-friendly along with the adjacent Dead Horse Point State Park. 2-3 nights in the nearby town of Moab is ideal to explore those parks. Don't try to fit too much things in one trip. Salt Lake-Yellowstone-Grand Teton-Arches-Canyonlands-Capitol Reef would be an ideal itenery. Then, save Bryce, Zion, Grand Canyon,and Sedona for another trip. Or you could include a park that I like that is in Southwestern Colorado, Mesa Verde on the first trip. It is such a neat park and the cliff dwellings are so neat and it is very close to Arches NP. Then, save Capitol Reef for the second trip, it is only a hundred miles from Bryce.

gail

We did Grand Canyon/Zion/Bryce 2 years ago and YNP/GTNP this year - 2 adults with 2 teenagers, also not hikers (and don't even think about trying to get me to camp - did that 25 years ago)

I was totally uninspired by my family's desire to go to Yellowstone - I wanted to go to Spain.

Best vacation in years. We spent 8 days - could have spent maybe a day or 2 longer. 3 nights in Jackson Hole area, 2 nights in West Yellowstone and 2 nights in Gardiner. Plenty to see - we drove along Park roads, stopping at various places and taking, at most, a half mile walk along a path to see something.

Husband wanted to see Mt. Rushmore, but it did not fit into time we had.

dmpalena

Author: dmpalena
Date: 09/07/2005, 11:41 pm
Thank you all for your kind input and expertise advice. Gail, it sounds like you were in the same boat as me, "uninspired" so to speak about seeing Yellowstone (as compared to the canyon areas), but I'm guessing from your post that you enjoyed Yellowstone more. Could you tell me if that's true, and if so, why? My husband is more interested in visiting Montana and Wyoming, I'm intrigued with the "red rock" country. Hearing how things book up, especially inside the parks, we have to come to some decision so to insure that wherever we go, we'll have a place to rest our heads!!! Speaking of which, any suggestions for places to stay...we're not the "roughing it" type and would like something with the creature comforts of home, like nice beds, good showers and yes, TVs (my guys wouldn't know what to do at night without one!). Thanks to all for all your help!

dmpalena

Thanks, wtm003 for the heads up! Forgot to post my reply to the right thread. Thanks for looking out for me. I'm beginning to think that Yellowstone must be all it's cracked up to be since everyone raves about it. Thanks to all for your insights.

dmpalena

Thanks, utahtea, for the suggestion of Glacier National Park. Preliminary research seems to indicate that it's a lovely location. How long a drive is it from Yellowstone and from previous posts that I've seen, it would seem that everyone suggests a drive down Beartooth highway. Is that far out of our way if we do GNP and YNP/GTNP? Anyone suggest an itinerary which saves time driving from point to point? Also, if we're not into the camping and/or "roughing it" style, where are the most convenient places to stay near these parks so we don't have to spend every day driving for hours just to get in them? Look forward to your replies. Thanks!

wtm003

West Yellowstone and Gardiner would be your best choices for lodging outside of the park. I can't recommend anything specific because I have stayed inside the park for both of my trips. I have stayed at the Old Faithful Inn, Old Faithful Snow Lodge and the newer lodge at Canyon. All three were comfortable and far from roughing it. I never missed the lack of a television. My kids complained before we left for the trip, but we were so busy visiting the park, attending ranger programs, etc. that they didn't miss it, either.

There was a recent Yellowstone trip report and it included lodging info for Gardiner and West Yellowstone. If I find it, I will top it for you.

gail

Comparing GC/Bryce to GTNP/YNP - I am not sure that is an easy comparison. We definitely found more to do at the latter than the former, although both are incredible natural wonders.

First of all, we are not really hikers. No chance we were taking the long hike in/out of the Grand Canyon. We did some Rim walks, some walks thru the hoodoos at Bryce - but when you were done walking and admiring the rocks and colors, that was it.

Yellowstone and Grand Teton have several different types of terrain, walks thru rocky, wooded, flat and hilly areas. Plenty of nice easy walks for our lazy family. There is also water - geysers, streams, hotsprings. And animals - moose, bison, antelope, etc. None of this is true at Grand Canyon (I know, the Colorado River is water)

The Park is huge. There is a posted trip report from me somewhere on this board. We stayed 3 nights at Jackson Hole (nearer to Grand Teton) - that was our taste of civilization. Even drove for a day into Idaho. Could have extended our stay there.

Then 2 nights at West Yellowstone and 2 nights in Gardiner. Flew into and out of Jackson - might have spent last night in Jackson Hole area so as to be closer to airport for departure.

If you get out a map, this itinerary makes some geographical sense. GTNP is a longer, narrower Park, with basically one north/south road (with some branches). Jackson is at southern end. So after driving thru GTNP you end up in Yellowstone, which has a figure "8" road configuration.

ausc59

I have to agree with gail's assessment - we have recently returned from the GCNP, Zion, and Bryce and in comparing it with the Y'stone trip we took several years ago - she is quite right. The diversity of environment isn't as easy to find or enjoy at the Grand Canyon.
I didn't find the heat to really be an issue - but I am from South Carolina so that might (!) have something to do with it. The evenings and the occasional breeze was relatively cool and the shade was noticeably cooler whereas at home the shade is just as hot as the sunny areas.
Regardless of where you decide to go, do try to stay in the lodges when possible. You will be staying in a piece of history and, to me, any minor inconveniences in terms of creature comforts are well worth the trade-off!
That said, I enjoyed the nights we spent in West Yellowstone, Sedona, and Springdale - I have to have some time to poke through the junk shops and eat at a Mom 'n Pop restaurant.

Planthetripdad

dmpalena,

I am ahead of you by a couple of weeks, Started planning a Yellowstone to Zion trip and was quickly convinced it was too much. Click on my name to see the questions I have asked and the advice that lead to where we are today. Reservations in the Parks at GC/Bryce and Zion with stops in between.

Two years from now will be Yell/GTNP/JAC.

I would have opted for Yell this year as I love that Park but family's first trip to the West and GC was the winner.

Good luck with your
planning.

asdaven

If you decide to go to Yellowstone, West Yellowstone is the best place to base yourself. It is the closest enterance to Old Faithful and other attractions. Gardiner,MT is twice the distance to Old Faithful as West Yellowstone is and a considerable distance from the Southern attractions. To clear up any confusion West Yellowstone is a town just like Jackson,WY and if you stay there, you are not stuck in the park to find a restaurant. I would suggest 3 nights in West Yellowstone and then for Grand Teton base yourself in Jackson,WY for 3 nights, about 100 miles from West Yellowstone. So I would suggest about a week between the two parks. Red Rock Country is beautiful, but Yellowstone and Grand Teton are also very beautiful. Yellowstone for its geysers and unusal, abundant wildlife and Grand Teton for its beautiful mountain peaks with no foothils to block them. The mountain peaks jut straight up out of the flat valley and are very pointed. I consider them pretter than the Alps or any other mountain range in North America. Planning can be the best part of a trip because once you go on the trip it is over, so I like to do a lot of planning. Happy planning!

dmpalena

Thanks to all for your wonderful and helpful advice! Can't tell you how great it is to discuss these plans with others who are passionate about travel! My guys are getting tired of hearing me talk about this vacation...they constantly remind me that "it's a year away", but as asdaven stated in the last post, the planning and anticipation is half, no more than half, the fun for me. The trip is over in a week or two, but the planning can last throughout the year! Anyway, it's looking more and more like Yellowstone, Grand Teton and Glacier is where we're probably headed to, now the real work begins on deciding how we're going to do it!!! My initial plan was to fly into Jackson spend 2-3 days in Grand Teton, head up to Yellowstone for 4 nights, then off to Glacier. How far is the drive from West Yellowstone to Glacier and where are the best spots to base from there? Does it make any difference if we travel from the west to the east side (especially on Going to the Sun Road), and then return to Yellowstone area from the east side of Glacier so we can come into the park from Beartooth Highway, perhaps returning home from Cody? Could use any ideas you may have about the feasibility of this plan...is it practical and will 2 weeks be enough to see a majority of these areas? As I said before we're not really hikers so I know we'll only be skimming the surface of these parks, but we would like to see all three if it is possible. I guess we'll be socked with a major drop-off fee by picking a rental car up in Jackson and dropping it off in Cody or Billings, etc., but I'm assumming that it wouldn't be practical to make a complete circle of these areas and return again to Jackson. Is that true? Again, I thank you all for taking the time to answer my posts.

dmpalena

Sorry I forgot to ask in previous post, I've read about some whitewater rafting in the Glacier park. As this is something we've never done before, we would really like to do it. Has anyone taken these trips in Glacier, especially in August, and how was it? Any recommendations on which are the best raft tours? Also, the rafting in Grand Teton is more a float trip than whitewater, but is it worth doing and how is it during August? Thanks fellow vacation lovers!

gail

Lodging near Grand Teton - if you do not stay in the Park, I recommend Teton Village Jackson Hole Resort Lodging since you have a family - they are condos planned for skiers but excellent for summer as well. We stayed in a 2 bedroom/2 bath full kitchen, balcony for about $250/night - sounds like a lot, but hotels in Jackson area are very expensive and well worth it for the extra space and money we saved by having a kitchen. Just like we don't hike, I don't cook on vacation - but just having stuff for simple breakfast, ability to make picnic lunch, etc was an important feature for us.

Don't know about trip time adding Glacier - but we ended our trip in Gardiner, MT and then had to drive thru both Parks to get 1 PM flight from Jackson. That drive took about 4 hours and one must allow at least that much time since driving thru Yellowstone one can get stuck for a long time in "animal jams" along the road.

When we checked airfare and car rental rates (from Boston) - some surprises. It is rather expensive to fly to this area. I tried 4 airlines, flexible dates, different cities and was not able to use our FF miles to book. Much cheaper to fly coast to coast than on this trip. Flying into and out of different cities added some to airfare. One-way car rentals did not add all that much. I spent a lot fo time on itasoftware.com since there are so many cities you can fly into that it got really confusing (Jackson is largest, but Bozeman, Billings, Cody, or even Idaho makes sense).

Check out equipment airline is using for flight - many airlines use "fake planes" (defined arbitrarily by me as anything under 50 seats) - and if anyone in your family shares my opinion, it adds another dimension to flight planning.

Water trips - we had booked float trip in Grand Teton, but had to cancel because of thunderstorm. Took white water trip on Yellowstone River from Gardiner (Class II/III) that was mild enough for whole family and "white water" enough for fun.

West Yellowstone (town of) is very different from Jackson. The former has a very western feel to it and is small and basic. Jackson has some very fine art dealers, restaurants, and is the second home to many very affluent people. Air Force Two was parked at airport during entire time we were there - we were told Dick Cheney was at his multi-million dollar home for several weeks. Enjoyed both towns - just very different.

Staying in versus out of Parks. While staying in the Parks puts you right near everything, with a family it can get old fast. No Park lodging has any kind of kitchen facilities in rental units - not even microwaves. Most lodging is very basic and rooms are generally small - also we found it much more expensive than staying outside Park since in Park would have required us to get 2 rooms each night. Park food gets tedious and expensive fast. Towns of West Yellowstone and Gardiner are so close to entrances to Park that they are really options to consider. When we did Bryce/Grand Canyon we did a mix of in and out of Parks - it was a nice balance. Also gave us something to do in the evening.

One final tip - don't know age of kid(s) but advise them that if one of them loses the their wallet in Wyoming, Mom is in a very bad mood for a day.

maj

Dmpalena. We flew into Kalispell (Glacier). It took us about 7-8 hours to go from Kalispell to Gardiner. It was a pleasant drive but not worth doing twice. I wouldn't do a circle from Yellowstone/Tetons to and from Glacier. I think the drop off charge for the car will be worth it to you. Aprildon6 was planning a trip through these 3 parks earlier this year on this forum that you might find helpful.

Gail. You mentioned that you could have spent more time in Idaho. We have thought about a day (or two) trip into Idaho from either Jackson or West Yellowstone the next time we go. What else would you have done/seen in Idaho?

asdaven

Flying into Jackson can be expensive and not too many flights fly there. When, I went to Yellowstone, I flew into Salt Lake City International which is a good 7-8 hours from Yellowstone, but I stayed in Idaho Falls,ID in between. I think Billings has a international airport too, but still not as cheap as Salt Lake City. But, if you are thinking about doing round-trip which is cheaper Salt Lake is a little far south to come back to if you are going up to Glacier. Maybe Billings would be a better choice. It would be best to work your way up to Glacier first, then Yellowstone, then Grand Teton/Jackson,Wy. But, if you start from the south, you would probably want to do the oposite. You said that your family is not really hikers, but there is one in Grand Teton you should check out. It is called the Cascade Canyon Trail. To get to the trailhead, you have to take a boat accross a lake. Then, you start hiking, after a 1/4 or less there's a waterfalls, then after that a view of the lake called Inspiration Point after a small up-hill climb. But don't stop there, keep going on. Most of the crowds go to that view of the lake. But, I reccomend going on. The trail goes through a canyon, between the peaks, and it is so beautiful, a totally different experince than from the road. The trail is very easy and flat, except for a short 100 foot climb in the beginning. But, after Inspriation Point, the trail is totally flat. And you can see moose and all kinds of wildlife. I probably did about 6 miles round-trip and wasn't tired or sore at all because the trail is flat. There are waterfalls running off the peaks, it's such a neat experince. You can walk around the edge of the lake, but I reccomend the boat because it avoids unessesary hiking and you will have time to hike further into Cascade Canyon. I don't understand why all the crowds don't go past inspriation point because the scenery gets a lot better and is totally flat trail from there. But, this was one of the most scenic hikes I have ever taken.
Happy Planning-

dmpalena

Thank you everyone for all your input. I appreciate your taking the time to share your experiences with me. I've been doing some airline and rental car shopping and it looks like the following itinerary would be the least expensive way to go: Fly into Billings, work our way down to YNP by way of Beartooth Highway, then down to GTNP, up to West Yellowstone and then off to GNP flying out of Kalispell. We would have two weeks to accomplish it all. Would this itinerary work...does it even make any sense? Between the air and car rental, starting at GNP and ending in Jackson was considerably more, but would it be worth whatever to do it? How should we split our time? Again, thanks for the help!