Welltravbrit's Ongoing NYC Jaunt

Nov 29th, 2015, 03:50 PM
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We've been happily inundated with family for the last couple of days but have still managed to see a couple of things that might be of interest...

Today we headed out to PS1 - the contemporary wing of MOMA that is out in Long Island City. We've been meaning to get out here since it opened so it has been on our list for a long time! It's an easy subway ride and we enjoyed the visit. Contemporary Art can be challenging but sometimes it's good to look at something and wonder, is it upside down, what side is the "right" one, what am I looking at, is that really what I think it is...? You'll get plenty of that and more at PS1, sculpture, installations, painting, photography, video etc.

Obviously it's in an old school and we were interested to see that most of the visitors were under 35, and generally very hip looking! It's free for MOMA members and for NYC residents on a Sunday at the current show. Entrance is also free if you can show a MOMA ticket from the last 14 days, which seems a pretty generous policy. The current show "Greater New York"focuses on NY artists and has plenty to keep your interest, there are a number of nostalgic pieces or documentary work from the 1980's and 1990's.

After the museum we headed down to Gantry Plaza Park to see the magnificent view of Manhattan across the water, it's really worth going over there just to see the vista and the park is beautifully done. However, Long Island City felt rather empty on a Sunday and the large new tower blocks down by the river have a very generic feel. This kind of waterfront development could be almost anywhere and is reminiscent of places we've seen in London and elsewhere. However, when you turn and look out at the view it's pure NY.

On Friday we were at the Met and I'd highly recommend the Middle Kingdom exhibit. We were recently in Egypt so the exhibit fitted into what we'd see there and the history we'd read before we went, obviously this made it particularly interesting for us.

Over the years we've seen a couple of good Egyptian exhibits at the Met and they do a good job of building and creating a theme or explicating the history and this was no exception. There were some lovely pieces from their collection but also from museums in Berlin, Oxford, London, Scotland, Vienna and Paris. Plus because it isn't a blockbuster topic it wasn't too busy which is always preferable.

After a reviving cup of tea in the Balcony Lounge (where we saw the beautifully turned out Tim Gunn) it was on to check out the Christmas Tree which had just been lit, as always it was delightful.

Oh and before I forget on the way up to the Met we walked through the park and had the quintessential NY experience of seeing Woody Allen and his step-daughter/wife. Nice to see that no one bothered them and they could enjoy a walk through the park just like the rest of us.

On Saturday the family headed to the 9/11 Museum while I headed to the Tenement Museum for another of their guided walks around the neighborhood. I liked the last walk I took there on the buildings of the LES but I was less impressed by this one on the shopfronts of Orchard Street. It is a great topic and there's lots to say but it was very thin to say the least which was disappointing. I really felt it was aimed at those who perhaps know absolutely nothing about American/NY immigrant history. There was so much more they could have brought into the discussion.

On a busy holiday weekend you should book tours at the Tenement Museum in advance it seemed they were turning away a lot of people as they were fully booked. Also don't miss their introductory film which is quite good and shows for free in a small room off the shop. If you just want to walk around the neighborhood on your own this would be a good place to start.

If you're heading to the area there are of course lots of great places to eat including several delis but I liked Cafe Katja on Orchard Street which is a charming unpretentious German place where you can get anything from a coffee or a beer to a full meal.

I tried to avoid the shopping areas this weekend but despite the traffic I rather enjoyed taking a bus down 5th Avenue. For me it was the ideal way to see the shop windows without dealing with the crowds! I liked the windows at Lord and Taylor which incorporated large animated scenes in the background.

Hopefully we'll see lots more this week .
welltraveledbrit is offline  
Nov 30th, 2015, 12:17 AM
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Love it-stepdaughter/wife.
yestravel is offline  
Nov 30th, 2015, 07:04 AM
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Enjoying your NYC report as much as I enjoyed your London report. One correction though--Cafe Katja is Austrian, not German.
elberko is offline  
Nov 30th, 2015, 07:12 AM
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Hi elberko -glad you're enjoying the report. We are finding so many similarities between this visit and our time in London, particularly between the Lower East Side and the East End - which share a history of immigration and now gentrification.

Thanks very much for the correction which is appreciated - that's almost as bad a calling a Canadian an American!
welltraveledbrit is offline  
Nov 30th, 2015, 07:19 AM
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That's the apt comparison! The smaller next-door neighbor who speaks the same language. As an Austrian-born American, I notice...
elberko is offline  
Nov 30th, 2015, 09:18 PM
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One can (and I have) made the same mistake with the Swiss - to the same embarrassment!

Today we went to the IFC in the village to see the documentary Peggy Guggenheim- Art Addict which I recommend. What a great cinema, it was like the old art house cinemas - so many of which have gone out of business across the US, they are showing so much I'd love to see. New Yorkers are so lucky to have such great film resources - including the films at MOMA which are free for members. Anyway, while this film was on a very limited release at home (as part of a Jewish Film Festival where it sold out very quickly) here it was showing for quite some time. I really enjoyed it and it covered the gallery she ran in NY after the war.

We are keeping busy this week and I have lots planned including some theatre - Steve directed by Cynthia Nixon (which got a good review in the Times) and a small Off Off Broadway production Pylade. Curious if anyone on Fodor's has seen either?

Well, we have now been in NY for more than two weeks and are having a great time, it is indeed a fascinating city and I'm thrilled to have time to explore . I've been drawing lots of comparisons with London and Paris. It's trite to say the world is becoming smaller but it's amazing how similar places can be, particularly when you're talking about trendy/hip neighborhoods where the modern aesthetic is shared, all repurposed industrial buildings, expensive cafes, shops and farm to table restaurants.

It isn't just about the sameness of H&M or The Gap, last time I was in London I was surprised by the French shops I saw on Marlyebone Highstreet. I'm not talking about the big global brands like Louis Vuitton or Dior, I'm talking about places like Sandro, Comptoir des Cotonniers and Zadig and Voltaire. Well today, just as I was walking through the Meatpacking District (thinking how pleasantly empty it was and how familiar) what did I see but Zadig and Voltaire. The same shop I looked at daily when I walked out of the place where we stayed in Paris. Then I noticed a sign for the architect Rienzo Piano's model workshop. You guessed it, it was right there in the Marais too! Feeling deeply cynical I decided to walk home via the HighLine and then I remembered the Promenade des Plantes - the elevated trainmen that was redone in Paris first!

Yes, I'm deeply away such comparisons say as much about me as the places I'm traveling

Ok, I'm over playing this and it's not a complaint just an observation. I'm not saying London, NY and Paris are the same, of course they are VERY different in many ways, but there are certain pockets that have deep similarities in amongst the difference. In fact, you need to make an effort to see the local in amongst the growing global, which is why I so appreciate all the recommendations I've received on Fodors.

Despite being a signed up denizen of all this stuff sometimes it does get to be a bit much and today at the Gansevoort Market (right at the southern end of the Highline) I had to roll my eyes when I saw an $8 slice of pizza. Yes, that was a slice, the ones you pick out and they heat up, eaten at a communal table. Yes, it looked good and everything was wonderfully tasteful and just so charming but really...?

I may complain bitterly about theatre ticket prices but in general I don't moan too much about restaurants, drinks or food prices because frankly we are inured to it from London and California, but this pizza slice took the biscuit!

The Gansevoort is a market that is really not a food market per se, but rather a series of food stalls selling ready prepared meals to eat there or to take away. Everything looks lovely and there was even a stall selling from a retrofitted VW combi van very much like one we saw in Bangkok. I was only surprised they didn't have the ubiquitous California favorite - the airstream trailer selling coffee but perhaps I'd have to go to Brooklyn for that?!!


It was pretty quiet when I went in mid afternoon but it was the Monday after Thanksgiving, I presume it's packed on a sunny day. It is a lovely spot right around the corner from the new Whitney which I still have to explore. I've just realize I've completely overlooked the Frank Stella exhibition they have on currently.

On the way home I stopped off from the walk along the Highline to revisit the Chelsea Market. I've been in here several times but generally when it has been very crowded so I was pleased to walk through when it was quieter at about 4:30pm. This is quite a different place than the Gansevoort.You really need to get into the shops to appreciate how much stuff there is in here Last week we'd eaten at Num Pang the Asian sandwich place but I hadn't realized there was one in here too. http://www.numpangnyc.com

There was also a nice produce market where I bought a few things, I'll be back for produce and for the wonderful fish shop too.

It's interesting how much renovation and recreation of markets there is in NY while some of the older indoor markets which have been around for ages are struggling, like the Essex Street market or the market up at Arthur Avenue in the Bronx. I don't know a lot about it but the difference seems to be markets designed for local folks to do their daily shopping are struggling vs markets that are set up as a tourist/lunchtime destinations which seem to be doing far better.

Thats all for now, and probably way too much anyway!
welltraveledbrit is offline  
Nov 30th, 2015, 11:10 PM
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You certainly are using the City to its fullest.

Essex Market is an odd hybird of hipster kiosks and Latino products. Next time you are down there is a wonderful Venezuelan place nearby called Patacon Pisao. The Cachapas are sensational (and huge.)

IMDonehere is offline  
Dec 1st, 2015, 01:14 AM
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I enjoy the Chelsea market but it is very touristy . I agree re the fish shop . There is a market at Rockefeller but maybe it's just in the summer.
Once we could travel and shop differently or at least in different stores now it's hard to find somewhere or something different - I agree . I used to enjoy a shop called Pylones in Carnaby street now it's even in Melbourne .
northie is offline  
Dec 1st, 2015, 07:33 AM
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There are many tourists in the Chlesea market not everything is touristy. The fruit and vegetable store in the back supplies many restaurants and the turnover and the prices are very good. Surprisingly, they carry few exotic items.

Amy's Bread is quite excellent. The fish store with their prepared lobsters, however, has been ruined by their success, as they have gotten expensive on all items. But I doubt many tourists take raw bay scallops back to their hotel room for diner.

The wine store has a good selection of Spanish wines. Jacques Torres makes wonderful chocolates.

But They bring in bus loads of tourists from PA and the unbelievable success of the Highline has made it very very crowded.
IMDonehere is offline  
Dec 2nd, 2015, 07:46 AM
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I so agree about the similalrity of the retail landscape! It used to be that you could go to Rome, for example, and discover a whole new world of wonders in the shops. Now……half the shops are the same as they are here in NY, and in Shanghai.

But this being New York where, according to the old saying, "No one pays retail," there happens to be a sample sale of Zadig and Voltaire, on for one more day on West 36th Street. I can give you more info if you like, although judging from your report, you have a lot more interesting things planned for today!!

I'm a local and I shop at Chelsea Market, although not as frequently as a few years ago. For me the standout is the fish store. I also take a look at Buon Italia, but find I can buy many of their items for better prices elsewhere (DiPalo or Arthur Avenue). Amy's is good for bread, although I admit that I am partial to Sullivan Street, which has a branch not far away. The fruit and veg place is ok but quality and freshness vary. They are known for their good supply of exotic mushrooms.

Fat Witch brownies are a special treat, only when I myself do not feel "fat!"
ekscrunchy is offline  
Dec 2nd, 2015, 10:59 AM
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I agree about the retail sameness everywhere we go. I do enjoy shopping or at least window shopping in small, individually owned shops. And I do believe you can find them, but there are also The Gap, Sandro, z&V, and of course, Gucci and Prada etc are in every big city. Anyway, glad to see you're enjoying NYC.
yestravel is offline  
Dec 2nd, 2015, 09:34 PM
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Great to read everyone's replies and recommendations
IMD thanks for the restaurant rec. I know I'll be back in that area soon.
ekscrunchy - thanks for the heads up on the sample sale but I'm trying to avoid all shopping as I already have to schlep all this winter stuff on my upcoming trip to Colombia. Thankfully the hotel in Bogota will store a couple of bags for us. Note to people who live and die traveling with a carryon only - it doesn't work for a longs stay in such different climates.

Yestravel, presume you are back from Paris and look forward to seeing you in Colombia!

Ok, back to some TR stuff....

One of the things I love is to follow information from the page or screen into the real world, whether it's reading a biography, history or even a detective novel. This time I've started by following a series of lectures on the Met and then visiting the relevant sections of the museum as I mentioned above. Yesterday I made a wonderful visit though their Ancient Near East .


I've spent a lot of time at the Met over the years but now matter how many times to go there's always something new to see, trite but true. I had seen the Assyrian winged guardian figures with their long beards and four legs, which are of course similar to others you can see in London (British Museum), Paris (Louvre) and Berlin(Pergamon). But I don't remember seeing much of the rest of the Ancient Near East collection, in fact I think I've just walked through it when seeking out the Islamic galleries.

What is so interesting about this section of the museum is the sheer scope of life they cover from some of the most significant early "civilizations" through the conquest of Islam. All those familiar names about which we know so little, the Hittites, the Babylonians, the Phoenicians, the Sumerians and lots more. The Ancient Near East covers everything from Anatolia to the Indus Valley, Iran, Iraq, the Euphrates valley and some of Central Asia, cities that feel almost mythical and others where so much has been lost including Palmyra and ancient sites in Iraq.

The Met is often overwhelming but I like to take it one bite at a time, focusing on something more manageable even if it is covering thousands of years of history. There are so many beautiful objects in clay, silver, gold, stone carving and work in ivory etc. AS usual the audio guide helped me make sense of it all and having been in Berlin this summer and Egypt last year it was good to fit it into what we'd see at the Pergamon (the Ishtar Gate) and the timeline of Egyptian history. Interestingly there where quite a number of Egyptian cultural influences through the near east including sphinxes and images of the goddess Hathor.

After the Met I was heading uptown and as everywhere was shut I ended up in a charming cafe which is recently opened and which I'd recommend. It's a lovely place that reminded me of the crypt cafe at St Martin's in the Field in London as this place is attached to the Episcopal church (@5th Ave and 90th st) and also has a lovely vaulted ceiling. Anyway it's run by charming young Australians who let me stay on after they closed and even gave me a delicious muffin on the house!


I was killing time before heading up to THE MUSEUM OF THE CITY OF NY for a panel discussion on affordable housing. I have to say I like this place and they really seem to have lots of interesting programs to go along with their current exhibits. For us it was very worth becoming an out of town member which is only $45 and gives you access to the museum and two tickets to any of their lectures, we'll be heading to another one on Landmark Preservation soon. What I learnt from the affordable housing talk was that the structures of incentives, laws and policies in NY is both unique and labyrinthian and I can't hope to understand the topic.

Overall NY strikes me as an expensive museum town but it's much better value if you can make use of museum memberships, which are often cheaper for out of owners. MOMA is pricey at $25 -yes you can get in for free on friday nights but it is PACKED - but when you visit multiple times and make used of PS!, their free film programs and $5 friends tickets your $70 global membership starts to look like a better deal though you'll have to cough up more for the member early hours (9:30-10:30) and tours.

Here's resource I've found useful, a list of all the museums offering free admission days or pay as you wish. Clearly most places offer free hours, some once a week and some once a month. Well worth checking out...

After checking out the list I headed down to the MUSEUM OF JEWISH HERITAGE down in the Battery which is free on Wednesdays from 4-8pm. The museum is beautifully situated right on the water near Battery Park and the place was almost empty when I went.
Thanks Northie for your heads up from the original post.


The museum is subtitled "A Living Memorial to the Holocaust" and this is the focus but their temporary exhibits can take a broader perspective as in their current exhibit on "Designing the Home; Jews and Mid-Century Modernism". This is a fairly small exhibit but I enjoyed it as it touched on furniture, ceramics, graphic design and architecture. Though many of the names were familiar, Richard Neutra, Eichler, Alpers etc., I hadn't thought about the fact that they were Jewish designers and that either they or their networks went back to the Bauhaus movement in Europe. Many of whom sought refugees in the US in the 1930's.

Equally interesting was another small exhibit entitled "Nazi Persecution of Homosexuals 1933-1945" which tied in with a walking tour we took of Christopher Isherwood's Berlin. It was interesting to see how the persecution took on the language of health, procreation and family and how the penalties and discrimination increased through the 30's.

As you can see I've been spending lots of time in museums .
welltraveledbrit is offline  
Dec 3rd, 2015, 01:51 PM
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Thanks for the site about free museums. I agree that NYC is an expensive museum town, but I am spoiled living in DC. You really sound like you have seen some interesting exhibits. Your thread will be invaluable to many.

I wondered what you were doing with all the clothes you needed for NYC when you. Move onto Colombia.

We are still in Paris until next week. Loving every second and hating to go home. Will be in touch re Colombia.
yestravel is offline  
Dec 3rd, 2015, 03:39 PM
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Hint for entering the Met Museum:

There is an entrance to the left of the main stairs on Fifth Ave where you can walk right in and do not have clamber stairs.
IMDonehere is offline  
Dec 3rd, 2015, 08:55 PM
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Rather busy couple of days running around like mad people, not how I normally like to do it but NY seems to be getting to me!

Last night we won the lottery to see Fun Home which is my husband's idea of purgatory, or perhaps even hell- to be fair he feels this way about all musicals with the exception of Kurt Weil, American Idiot and Urinetown. However, he was a good sport and went along with it. I really like Lisa Kron's work (we've seen a couple of her shows in the Bay Area) so I was quite keen to see this. Despite not being much of a musical person I enjoyed it. The theatre, performances and staging are wonderful and while my heart sank a little when the singing started the show (along with the musical numbers) did a wonderful job of evoking the confusion and ambivalence of memory, the joy, regret and ambivalence of trying to make sense of one's upbringing and sexuality as a young adult. I really liked the "in the round" staging and will look to see what's on at Circle in the Square next time we are in town

These lotteries are working out well for us and once again I'd highly recommend the Today Tix app. I've been consistently applying for multiple shows daily and it's a great resource if you have a lot of flexibility and/or are staying in NY for a while. Between the lotteries and TDF we are getting to see almost all of the shows that interest us. I suppose it's obvious but you'll find much more on TDF for mid week shows and you need to check frequently.

After the show we went to Danjii, a Korean modern small plates place I'd highly recommend. I love their cold whelk salad with buckwheat noodles along with their soft tofu. It's always best to make a reservation as it's a popular place but we snagged seats at the bar after a short wait.


Today was meant to be fairly quiet but didn't work out that way! We started with a tour of the Woolworth Building which Maitaitomi and Progol recommended, great advice you two . We took the one hour long lobby tour and very much enjoyed it, I highly recommend this for anyone who is interested in architecture. It's fairly short but a really great way to get a sense for what was the height of luxury in the year before the War to End All Wars began.

After the tour we scooted over to the RUSS AND DAUGHTER's CAFE on Orchard Street near the Tenement Museum - which a friend had been raving about for ages. I recommend arriving after 2:15pm if you want to walk right in. I really like this place, it's not inexpensive but the quality of everything is fabulous and they served breakfast all day. The serve the same smoked fish spreads and lox from the deli along with matzo ball soup, latke's and lots of other favorites. The whole places has an old fashioned feel but somehow feels comforting and welcoming. I like it because it's wonderful Jewish style food without the enormous sandwiches which are too much food for me to look at.


After this I headed to the Museum of the Chines in America and my husband headed to the New Museum in the Bowery. I was briefly sidetracked by an Ulla Johnson sample sale so I take back everything I said yesterday about trying to avoid shopping because I have too much stuff! My only defense is that the gorgeous thin blouse I bought is beautiful and could fit into my handbag! My only surprise was how incredibly expensive these samples were. Hundreds of dollars for something where you have to strip down at the back of the store because there's no changing room, hmm I don't know about that?! Luckily I found an unmarked sample that fit me and was a relative "bargain". But I have to say these New Yorkers don't blink, and neither did the security guard, when people started stripping down to their bras in full view of passers by! When I came home I saw that Time Out had picked this as one of their sample sale picks and rated it at $$ out of $$$$ - clearly I have a lot to learn about what is truly expensive in NY, lol .

So onto the relevant stuff THE MUSEUM OF THE CHINESE IN AMERICA. I'm a fan of small museums and this one was free as it's the first Thursday of the month. Thanks to marieparis for mentioning it on the earlier planning thread.

The permanent exhibition covers the history of Chinese immigration to the US along with audio visuals, plus the usual materials on the Chinese Exclusion Act. If you've taken any Asian American history it's a recap and like most museums they failed to talk about how different the Chinese experience was in Hawaii. However, it's a good survey and touches on a variety of issues while providing compelling individual voices and examples as modern museums are wont to do. I'd recommend it to anyone interested in diverse histories or immigrant or social history in general.

They had two smaller special exhibits including one on a Chinese American architect. I was particularly taken by the other entitled Sub/ Urbanism about the growing Chinese immigrant population that has moved up to Connecticut following jobs that opened up in the service sector of the large casinos. To anyone interested in spacial geography, immigration, social sciences and planning it was truly fascinating. The exhibit examined the ways in which these immigrant have divided up family homes and are changing the suburban environment and it challenged us to think about the idea of a "household" in new ways. Talking about why these immigrants plant trees in seemingly "odd" places, walk through other people's property to get to work and plant crops on the front lawns of their suburban tract homes.

As you can imagine this has all gone down like a lead ballon in the communities to which they've moved. Anyway interesting stuff, very well presented. It's really too bad the place was almost empty. The Sub Urbanisms show runs through the end of March and for anyone else who is interested there are more details here

Well that was more than enough for one day but there was more to come anyway. In London I learnt to check out Eventbrite for lectures and listings at Universities and I did the same before we came to NY which is how we ended up at the NEW SCHOOL to see an experimental film at 6pm! Organized by the Center for Book Arts as part of one of their exhibitions the film entitled the Measures was fascinating. I love to include these sorts of things when we travel.

In addition the event was held in the Orozco Room and the performance piece was preceded by a curator led tour of the Clemente Orozco murals which included Gandhi, Lenin and Stalin along with images of British colonial power and slavery. Anyone who is interested can see images and more details here. We very much enjoyed the opportunity to see the murals and peaked in at Joseph Urban's magnificent art deco auditorium on our way out.


Well that was more than enough for several days so I'm planning nothing for tomorrow!

IMD thanks for the Met tip, is that the entrance marked for the education center?

Yestravel, glad you are still enjoying Paris and that the free museum site might be useful. You are indeed point in DC!
welltraveledbrit is offline  
Dec 3rd, 2015, 09:28 PM
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Glad you using the city to its fullest.

I am not sure what the markings are for the entrance, but I do recall it is for the disabled and yes, the school trips enter through there.
IMDonehere is offline  
Dec 4th, 2015, 04:54 AM
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Reading along still. Bluestone lane has 6 other places in New York . It's named after the bluestone cobbled alleys in My city Melbourne and the founders wanted to recreate/ celebrate the coffee culture of Melbourne in New York. They have featured in our press . Sounds a lovely venue .
Never been to Russ and Daughter - always walk past it . Will go next time.
northie is offline  
Dec 4th, 2015, 05:37 AM
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There is a restaurant in the East Village called Flinders Lane and the people are from Melbourne as is the street, so I am told. Not bad, a little pricey.

Russ and Daughters was founded in 1914. It is now run by two cousins who gave up jobs as lawyers, investment bankers, or something like that to take over the family business. It was there idea to start the cafe. They are doing a bang up job.
IMDonehere is offline  
Dec 4th, 2015, 08:16 AM
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Northie - I was interested to read your remarks. I didn't realize they had other venues but the chap did say they were trying to recreate an Australian feeling cafe and all I could think about that was uniquely about Australian cafe culture was the term flat white! However, having been in there I realized they're promoting that lovely unpretentious Australian quality of hospitality along with an emphasis on good, fresh simple food.

IMD- interesting to read the backstory on Russ and Daughters. As you go into the cafe they have a framed Russ and Daughters brown paper bag from the 1950's donated by Calvin Trilling, very cool!
Yes, we're still trying to enjoy all the city has to offer, but that's a lifetime's work
welltraveledbrit is offline  
Dec 4th, 2015, 10:36 AM
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Here is a crazy interesting story about an employee at Russ.


Supposedly at Zabar's the lox slicers make over $85,000 a year.
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