Hello all,

I recently returned from a 5-day trip to DC, and even though I did so much that I need a vacation from my vacation (as usual), it was worth every minute. Here is a link to some of my pictures from the trip (a slideshow of about 20 or so pictures). Just click on where it says “Slideshow” in the upper right:

http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u...n%20DC%202009/

GENERAL TRAVEL STUFF: We flew US Air from Ft. Lauderdale to Reagan National… on Christmas Day. It wasn’t until we’d gotten into the hotel that we learned about the bombing attempt that day. We also learned how COLD it was going to be for the week. I’m from South Florida, and we turn the heat on when it dips below 65 We stayed at the JW Marriott on Pennsylvania Ave. It wasn’t cheap ($199/night) but I loved the location, and free breakfast buffet was included (and it was a great buffet with an omelet station, etc.). I generally don’t look for hotel bargains when I travel, preferring to splurge for convenience. The hotel was fantastic... beautiful, big modern room, etc. My only complaint is that there was no free Wifi in the hotel room (in the lobby only). I’m spoiled. ☺ Anyway, here are some specifics about stuff we saw & did:

HOLOCAUST MUSEUM: Do not miss this! We did this on the first day, which was rainy and awful, and we wanted to be inside. So we went for a double-dose of depressing by going to the Holocaust Museum. (PS, I just found out the guy who shot and killed a guard there this summer died yesterday. Good.) The museum was really an incredible experience, albeit difficult at times. I felt that the hardest and most moving part was walking through one of the cattle cars that was used to transport people to the camps. When you walk into the museum, you choose a little pamphlet from a stack, and this is like “your” identity… it tells the story of a real person that went through the Holocaust. My person was a Lithuanian teenaged girl who ended up surviving. It really personalized the experience, since you can imagine yourself as this person as you move through the exhibits. It’s definitely not for kids (I saw some children in there and didn’t feel comfortable about it). There is an exhibit designed especially for children, but we didn’t visit that. Parts of the main exhibit are graphic. However, the most graphic videos are shown behind a short cement wall, so that you actually have to choose to peer over and watch (and kids can’t inadvertently see them). Overall, a very moving experience and highly recommended.

AMERICAN HISTORY MUSEUM: I have to say, I wasn’t a big fan. I think that this type of stuff largely wasn’t up my alley, and it was way too crowded. I did enjoy parts of it, but I would choose to swing through more quickly next time. Things I did enjoy: musical instrument display (rare Stradivarius instruments, etc.), Star-Spangled Banner exhibit (low-lit, very dramatic presentation), gowns of the First Ladies (an earlier poster wrote she was disappointed at the number of gowns, but I saw over a dozen… maybe they rotate).

NEWSEUM: In a word, AMAZING! Highlights for me included a large graffiti-filled section of the Berlin Wall with the security tower from Checkpoint Charlie, the gallery of Pulitzer Prize-winning news photos, artifacts from history (a stack of some of the actual Pentagon Papers, a reporter’s notes from the Monica Lewinsky scandal, JFK’s debate notes (vs. Nixon), and many, many more things. Also fascinating are the displays of that day’s front page from newspapers from all around the world. It was particularly interesting the day we went, since it was the day after the attempted bombing, and almost every paper had it on the cover. We were also able to go into the set for ABC’s This Week, which is filmed there. We spent 3 hours, and easily could have spent another 3. As an earlier poster mentioned, your ticket is good for 2 consecutive days.

NATIONAL ARCHIVES: This was one of the main reasons I initially thought of going to DC. I remember a scene from an old Goldie Hawn movie called “Protocol” where she walks through the archives, past the Declaration of Independence and Constitution. Her character makes a comment like, “what other country talks about the pursuit of happiness?” Anyway, I remembered this scene and her character’s amazement and always wanted to stand in front of the actual documents myself. It was a HUGE thrill for me! I told the security guard that I heard the documents retract into an underground vault for protection. He said “they don’t do that anymore.” When I asked what they did now he said flatly, “I can’t tell you.” I wonder if he was pulling my leg or serious! Anyone know?

MONUMENTS: We did the FDR and Jefferson one day, then the others another day. I was disappointed by the FDR memorial because it was winter and from what I hear, there are supposed to be waterfalls… so that took away from the beauty, I suppose. But the sculptures and relief castings (?) of the WPA program were really great. I’ve always loved the Jefferson Memorial and it doesn’t disappoint – too bad it’s so far out of the way for most tourists. We actually took a taxi to the FDR then a taxi back from the Jefferson. The Korean War memorial was absolutely ingenious and haunting – totally unconventional, with life-sized statues of soldiers in their rain gear, moving across a field. If you look at my photos, you’ll see a picture of a granite wall with lightly etched images of soldiers on it, which reflects the life-sized statues as if they’re ghosts. Very cool memorial. Of course the Lincoln Memorial is always amazing, but I was surprised it was SO hard to find that step where MLK delivered his famous “I Have a Dream” speech – it’s carved into one of the steps, and really hard to see – I’m surprised they haven’t put a plaque or something there. Guess it’s logistics (something to trip over!) We also got tickets to go up in the Washington Monument, but the day we went it was rainy and foggy, and there was zero visibility from the top. It was still interesting to see the inside and travel in the glass elevator.

SUPREME COURT: It was kind of a last minute decision to go inside (because I knew court was out of session) but I’m glad we went in! I was thrilled to be able to look into the courtroom and see the 9 chairs all lined up behind the bench.

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS: This was perhaps the biggest surprise (in a good way) of my whole trip. I absolutely fell in love with how gorgeous this place is! Around the main hall, there were touch-screen computers that would help you locate things you were looking at (statues, paintings on the ceiling, etc.) and you could select and read information on each item. The big bummer is that you can’t get into the Main Reading Room, which is so huge and spectacular looking. You can only view it from above, from behind a glass wall (and no pictures allowed). I tried to get in, but couldn’t use my persuasive powers… seems you have to register to do research in advance. Had I known, I would have! The other thing at the Library of Congress that was a huge highlight for me was the permanent Gershwin exhibit. I’m a composer/arranger, and my publisher has the print rights to the Gershwin catalog, and I’ll be arranging 3 books of Gershwin music starting next week… so I was thrilled! So maybe this is specific to me, but I think other music lovers will appreciate it too. There’s Gershwin’s Steinway grand piano, his writing desk, metronome, handwritten manuscripts, his contract for Porgy & Bess, one of his royalty statements, etc. So this is a must-see for any Gershwin fan. It’s a little off the beaten path, down on the ground level, so ask for directions.

CAPITOL TOUR: I mean Capitol cattle call. Kinda what I expected. I felt it was a “must,” and I’m glad I went, but it was so crowded and we were just herded around too quickly and saw too little. The Rotunda was fantastic, but I wanted to be able to really see each of the famous paintings in there (Trumbull’s Signing of the Declaration, Surrender at Yorktown, etc.) Instead, the tour guide plops the group in one spot and literally yells out a 5-minute spiel before you’re herded off. Disappointing, but expected. I had gone online weeks before my trip and reserved a tour time (you print out a paper and take it with you) and that saved time for sure.

AIR & SPACE MUSEUM: I’m a big space geek, so I was in heaven. It was a helpful hint to learn that most of the space-related exhibits were on one side of the museum, and most of the aviation exhibits were on the other. My favorites, of course, were all of the Apollo artifacts, including the actual Mercury, Gemini and Apollo capsules. Too cool. I also enjoyed seeing a great film in the Planetarium on black holes (you have to pay for this, but it was only like $8). There are also some free shows in the planetarium, however.

HIRSHHORN: I wasn’t impressed with the collection on display, mainly ‘cause it was pretty small and I’ve been to some amazing modern art museums. However, the Hirshhorn’s sculpture garden has some really nice stuff (Rodin’s Burgher’s of Calais & Balzac, a Henry Moore, Giacometti, etc.)

NATIONAL GALLERY: In the past I’d spent lots of time in here, so I only stayed a couple hours. I loved the huge bronze memorial to Robert Gould Shaw and the Massachusetts 54th Regiment… this was the African-American unit during the Civil War that was depicted in the Matthew Broderick / Denzel Washington movie “Glory.” Beautiful piece. Note: when I was visiting, they had the French Impressionists gallery closed, and had only select paintings on display at the East wing.

TERRA COTTA WARRIORS: I had gotten my ticket a couple months ago (they sell out weeks in advance), and I thoroughly enjoyed the display. Pay the extra $5 for the audio tour – definitely worth it. Another tip is to wait until you’re at the back of the group (they let people in every 30 minutes). Wait ‘til the first few rooms almost clear out, then you’ll have more space to see things. Sadly, no picture taking is allowed, but be sure to check out the museum store after and pick up one of the exhibit books.

ARLINGTON CEMETERY: This was an absolutely fantastic experience, and I highly recommend this for anyone who hasn’t gone. The displays at the visitor center are interesting (and include the trumpet used to play “taps” at JFK’s funeral). I paid the $7.50 (I think) to take the TourMobile shuttle around to the various sights. Before you board the shuttle, figure out how you can be sure to see the change of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknowns. This time of year (winter) they only do it on the top of each hour, but I think other times it’s every half hour. The first shuttle stop is at the Kennedy graves, and they’ll only wait 8 minutes before taking off and heading to the Tomb of the Unknowns. You can, of course, wait for the next shuttle to come along (every 15-20 minutes). So you have to time things out to give yourself the opportunity to see everything. It’s hard to put the whole experience into words, and I didn’t think I’d be affected by being there, but I was. We saw the big black horses being readied for a funeral service. Since there was no casket on there yet, we were allowed to photograph them. It was a particularly cold, overcast winter day when I visited, and that added to the somber experience. I wanted to see the Iwo Jima memorial, but it was a 15-20 minute walk each way, and it was too cold. But if you want to go, ask at the front desk of the visitor’s center and they’ll give you a little slip of paper with walking directions.

NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY / AMERICAN ART MUSEUM: Loved it, loved it, loved it! I thought looking at mostly portraits would be boring. I was so wrong. I heard this museum had been recently renovated, and it was a wonderful experience. I spent a few hours and wish I had more time to spend. One side of the building is the Portrait Gallery, the other side is the American Art Museum, but the exhibits flow into one another. It’s organized very well; for example, each period in history has individual rooms (from the Revolutionary times, Civil War, etc.) and some rooms are devoted to certain categories (for example, there’s a room of writers and poets from one era, and in the hallway they feature famous inventors, etc.) Be sure to get a map, though, so you can see which way to go to view things chronologically… it’s a better experience. I thought the “explanation cards” in each room were concise and informative (lots of time I hate reading stuff in museums ‘cause it’s rambling and boring… this was the exception.) The portraits of the Presidents were interesting… my favorite was Elaine de Kooning’s JFK, which was painted from a live sitting not long before he was assassinated. If you go, be sure not to miss the covered courtyard. There’s a good café where you can get lunch and take a break.

RESTAURANTS: We LOVED a restaurant called Proof. This is in the Penn Quarter area, near the National Portrait gallery (8th and G St.) They have an amazing wine list (most stuff beyond expensive – I mean hundreds of dollars and up), but we got the sommelier to come over and recommend a more affordable bottle for us (there are some, and our wine was fantastic). I’m a big cheese lover, so we got a 6-piece plate from their nice selection. This was our blowout dinner, and we did some credit card damage for sure! But the food was fantastic and we loved it. (I’m a vegetarian, and there were a couple great options for me.) Another restaurant we really liked was Zola, in the same neighborhood, right next to the Spy Museum (8th and F St.) Both places are the style I prefer… modern and sleek, with interesting food.

If I can answer any questions, I’d be happy to! Thanks for listening!
Carol

Glad you had a great trip. Was there in June. Agree about the Holocaust Museum and with kids. Why do parents do that?

The Portraits Gallery was definitely one of our favorites.

Nice report. But I love the FDR Memorial but I can see if the water features weren't working that it would lose some of the impact.

Wonderful report, Carol. It's very informative and should be a help to anyone who is planning a trip to Washington.

I'm surprised at the number of people who've never been inside the LOC. The Jefferson building is amazing, isn't it? BTW, I had the same reaction to the Capitol tour as you did. Rather disappointing.

Thank you so much for your wonderful report ~ and I enjoyed your photos. Newseum sounds and looks amazing!
Were you referring to young children at the Holocaust Museum? Do you think it's appropriate for a 13-y-o girl who has read The Diary of Anne Frank as well as 2 biographies of Anne Frank? Thank you.

Lantana, 13 may be appropriate since she has read that. There are some very graphic pictures / displays. I know we were mortified at some of the stuff with how somber it was but definitely worthwhile. You know your daughter. It would be a moving but somber experience. In my post, I was referring to 6 and 7 year olds.

I was referring to seeing some rather young kids in there (8 or 9 year olds). Your daughter is older, but I do, however, think there's a difference between reading something and seeing something... in the exhibit, there are piles of human hair, for example -- very graphic stuff like that. If you do take your daughter, I'd strongly advise against looking at those videos behind the short walls. I could barely look, and I had already seen lots of documentary footage in the past. When I say graphic, I mean beyond stomach-churning awfulness. Trust me. So it's an iffy thing, in my opinion (if she's 13, you may not be able to "stop" her from looking over the walls...) As I mentioned, there is an exhibit geared especially for kids, called "Daniel's Story" which I didn't see. However, here's the web page for that:

http://www.ushmm.org/museum/exhibit/exhibit/

I took a 10 year old through the Daniel's Story exhibit and found it to be very well done for children his age and younger.

As Carol points out, there's a difference between reading about something and seeing it. For me, walking through the railroad car and thinking about the people who had been in it and their circumstances was just wrenching. Some 13 year olds can handle those emotions, others can't. And I agree with Carol about the videos behind the walls.

Thank you tchoiniere, CarolM and 321go for all the detailed advice. Now I understand. I really appreciate your help.

Carol, Great trip report! I really enjoyed reading it and I so agree with you about how wonderful the recently revitalized NPG/Amer Art Museum is and how pleasant the courtyard is that separates the two spaces.

For those who want to visit Iwo Jima in the summer, the Marines host a sunset parade one night a week (don't recall which night). The views of the city from across the Potomac at dusk are spectacular.

Regarding the Holocaust Museum, I think a 13 year old who has some interest in and context for understanding the events would be able to handle the very evocative exhibition.

My only suggestion, and I apologize if it has already been offered, is to choose your subsequent outing carefully. I was emotionally drained (as an adult) after my first visit and wanted something easy and distracting. You know your daughter best so just offering that up for consideration.

Great report; I am bookmarking for my trip to DC this April.

The Sunset Parade is held on Tuesday evenings. See the following site for details: http://www.mbw.usmc.mil/parade_sunsetdefault.asp

CarolM,

Most enjoyed reading your report. Living in the DC area, we have the luxury of visiting the museums off-season, and only taking in one or two exhibits of interest, so I can sympathize with how you found some of the crowding to be a challenge. And I'm glad you found the LOC so enjoyable--the building is so beautiful and the contents so interesting.

I also wanted to add my $0.02 on visiting the Holocaust Museum with young children. I agree that with most activities, you really need to know your child. We visited the museum over the winter break with our children, ages 8 and 13. Our 8 year old daughter had read some age-appropriate books on the Holocaust (Scholastic publishes them) beforehand, and we only toured Daniel's Story. I wouldn't have taken her to any of the other exhibits, and nor would I have taken her to the museum at a younger age and without the ability to understand the museum without a basic context. Conversely, my husband and 13 year-old son toured the entire museum, and my husband remarked that the contents were very appropriate for our son, but only because he had learned about the Holocaust in school and was mature enough to understand them.