Trip Report, Zion, Grand Canyon, Monument Valley,
Jun 3rd, 2006 | 02:40 PM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 25,597
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Trip Report, Zion, Grand Canyon, Monument Valley,
5 days, 1500 miles, 4 states (Zion, Monument Valley, Grand Canyon)
Day 1-Depart Long Beach, 9 am. Destination, Zion NP.
I came up I-15, passing by Las Vegas about 1:30 pm. I laughed at the traffic heading back toward LA. I don’t think I want to visit LV. Looks ghastly. Reached Mesquite in another hour (2:30 pm). It might be worth a golf trip. Newish Falcon Ridge seemed like a good lodging choice, but it wasn’t close enough to Zion for this trip. The Virgin River Valley area was scenic, with lots of golf opportunities and subdivisions. The little town before Springdale, Rockville, seems quaint and charming for a restful B&B type stay. I got to Springdale 4 pm LA time, early enough to head straight to Zion. I took the shuttle to the Lodge for the trail to Emerald Pools (Middle and Lower). There were a couple of the canyon tree-frogs in one of the pools, making a heck of a racket. They sound like bleating sheep! Also, I hadn’t expected to see wild turkeys all over the place, slowing down the shuttle busses. Made a quick stop at Court of the Patriarchs and ate picnic dinner while admiring the view. Returned to Motel in time for sunset and tea.
Pit Stop: I had reserved the Bumbleberry Motel, Springdale,UT ($98 including tax). Not a great value but then it was still the holiday and a lot of places were full. It was an average motel room, coffee maker, no frig or breakfast. It did have a balcony that faced the Watchman-side cliffs. I was in the last row of units which overlooked a little field with a rooster that made sure I got up early. Nice Sunset view. I walked across the street to the gallery and bought a poster from David Pettit’s gallery next to Zion Pizza and Noodle Co. Good smells coming from that direction, and they serve alcohol. There was no way I could capture that image of the Narrows without a large-format camera, tripod and a wide-angle lens. He says he uses a $50K drum scanner on his film negatives, and ships the final image on a CD to Colorado for printing. On the way across the parking lot in the dark, I think I saw a ring-tailed cat. It looked sort of like a cat, but the proportions were off. Or maybe it WAS a mutant cat.
Day 2, Zion to Monument Valley. Thanks to the rooster, I got up early. FIVE AM California Time. Took sunrise photos from out back of the museum. Then out toward the east entrance to the Canyon Overlook trail. Despite being labeled “easy” (NOT!, I think “moderate” is more appropriate), there was enough exposure to long drops to convince me that I was too acrophobic for Angel’s Landing Trail. Nice early morning lighting and saw some native columbines and orchids (“giant helleborine”). Then to Riverside Walk and waded up the Narrows until the water reached just below groin level. I decided that I did not want cold wet underwear for several hours, so turned around. Should have worn a bathing suit underneath. It was fun, though. My Timberland hiking boots with the Kevlar lining didn’t suffer from being submerged. Got a great photo of the group ahead that kept on going. Left on Route 9) by 2 pm. Saw lots of arches and cross bedding, bringing back memories of Orme’s geomorphology class.
Took 89A by the Vermillion Cliffs and reached Navajo Bridge at the Colorado by 4:20 pm. Unfortunately, at sunset, I was only at El Capitan, not Monument Valley. My only solace is that the digital camera does not like sunsets.
Pit Stop: I didn’t have a reservation, and wasn’t sure if I should stop at the Anasazi Inn or continue on to Goulding’s. I though that MAYBE I could catch some late sunset rays at Goulding’s. I got there around 8:15 pm. Not much. But I did get a “room” with Autoclub discount, for $131, which turned out to be a 2-bedroom mobile home with real kitchen, known as Gouldings “House.” For décor, think 1976. The living room does have a view toward the park, but it’s fairly distant. The main advantage of Goulding’s is in being so close to the park.
Day 3 Monument Valley to Grand Canyon. As soon as I realized it was light outside, (4:11 AM California time), I made coffee and headed for the Monument Valley park. I really had NO idea what time zone I was in. There was no one at the parking lot and everything around the visitor center said “Closed, Do not enter”. I pulled up to the ticket window, the reflective glass window slid open, and, “Yes, we’re open” and have been for ½ hour! (It was 6:30 AM Navajo Nation time). Five dollars later, my trusty Mazda with the nearly new, expensive soft racing tires, headed down the 17-mile jeep trail. It’s really not that bad. A few holes, a few ruts, a few rocks best avoided, a bit of sand. No problem. I was virtually alone for 2.5 hours, with no wind and “golden hour” lighting. Absolutely magical until 9am when the vendors and jeeps appeared. It was time to return to Goulding’s, have breakfast, and check out. I stopped by the Museum and looked at the exhibits, including some of “Happy” Cly, a Navajo weaver who was featured in a lot of the photos and films made in Monument Valley in the early years. I checked out at 11 am Goulding’s time. (Nice touch, they have a clock on the OUTSIDE of the motel office).
Just a mile or so down Hwy 89, I was drawn toward a largish group of vendor stalls on the right. Normally I don’t stop at tourist traps. I found one stall that seemed to have tasteful and inexpensive beaded necklaces (the $5 ones are a steal!). I spent ½ hour shopping and chatting with the young woman in the store. Turned out she was the great-grand-daughter of “Happy Cly” and her uncle is featured in the acclaimed documentary “Return of Navajo Boy.” (www.navajoboy.com). I spent $40 on some pretty neat bead necklaces made by Talethia (sp?) Begay and her mother. I am definitely going to track down that video.
I stopped for an hour or so at Navajo National Monument. It was a pleasant trail to an overlook for the Betatakin cliff dwellings. The nature trail signs were especially informative about plant uses. There were demonstrations inside the small visitor center of a basketmaker and a weaver, and a recreation of a family unit at a Hopi dwelling. The dwellings can only be visited by a daily guided walk rated strenuous, 5 miles.
At the next stop, Cameron, the challenge was to find the restrooms. The trading post is not my cup of tea, but the gallery was amazing. The antique textiles, include a $325,000 First Phase Chief blanket…I remember one showed up on the Antiques Roadshow and gave them palpitations.
Onward to Grand Canyon, arriving via the east entrance, restroom destination Desert View about 5 pm. Walked to the top of the Watchtower, tested the ilio-tibial band knee-issue, and the answer was, NOT walking very far into the Grand Canyon the next day. Saw the sunset at Mather Point. The digital camera does not like sunsets, but I did get one that turned out great!
Pit Stop: “Historic Cabin” at Bright Angel. Booked a week before on the internet, must have been a cancellation. $89/nt, I think it’s a remarkable deal. It took a bit of hunting to find in the dark, even with a map. It was small, with a refrigerator, TV, & phone with FREE 800 calls. No A/C, but it cools off quickly with the cross-ventilation and ceiling fan. I could park right outside. The site planning is thoughtful; cabins are artfully angled across the site, instead of being lined up in a row, so you feel as if you are in your own little house. Each cabin is slightly different, color scheme with orange, cobalt, and jade green millwork, and Navajo red wooden walls, with a few stucco or stacked rock walls thrown in. There is no coffeemaker or cooking in the rooms (however, tell that to my Rival Hot Pot Express).
Day 4. Grand Canyon. The first morning I didn’t make it up for sunrise, but still fairly early. Tried my knee on the Bright Angel Trail. I walked down 20 minutes on the first few more gentle switchbacks, but stopped at tighter steeper ones. Coming back up was not a problem, since I got the pacing right. Walked most of the West Rim trail, starting with the aptly named “Abyss” section. The last part cuts inland and there is a wide gravel road you can walk on, but there wasn’t much shade on it, so I cut in and out of the smaller paths thru the pine/juniper forest. There were a few claret cup cactus in bloom, they really glow scarlet red. About 3pm I reached the last stop (Hermit’s Rest) and decided it was getting to hot and my cabin was calling for a nap.
At sunset, I joined the mad crowds lined up for the shuttle busses fort Hopi Point. If you walk out to the right, you can have a little elbow room and watch the changing light in the canyon. I didn’t feel a need to stare at the sun while it set, since the damn camera won’t shoot straight into the sun. I did get one shot at about 20 minutes after the sun went down that was alright. The whole scene reminds me of Disneyland, during the fireworks, only less organized. I decided to walk back. I should have brought a flashlight, but not having one made me walk faster. It took less than an hour to get back.
Day 5. Grand Canyon to Los Angeles via Oatman.
A bit after sunset, walked east along the Rim, looked at the Historic Buildings and got within a few feet of a cute pygmy nuthatch. When I returned, the California Condors were performing in front of the Bright Angel Lodge. Someone cited a ranger that the birds had to be trained to roll over the canyon edge, when a predator approached. Hopping away wasn’t working. Someone else commented that if he got a good photo, he would feel like he got his money’s worth from his tax dollars. The condors cooperated. At 9 am or so, I went to the Arizona Lodge history room that has displays on the Harvey Girls and Mary Jane Colter. She designed most of the cool buildings at the GC, as well as the restaurant at Union Station. Skimmed thru one of the two books about her that was for sale. When she was a girl, she wanted to become an artist, but her parents thought that was frivolous. When her father died, she persuaded her mother to let her go to art school in San Francisco so that she could become an art teacher and support the family. She apprenticed at an architect’s office (not many schools taught architecture). She was hired by Fred Harvey to design buildings She was strong enough to stand up to contractors and builders, appreciated art, regional architecture, knew exactly what colors she wanted, yet didn’t get the respect she deserved. I took a snap of an old photo of her and Mrs. Ickes. She was short, too! YOU GO, GIRL! http://www.kaibab.org/gc/images/mjcolter.htm
I checked out about 11:15 am, and left just as the train from Williams was pulling in. My plan had been to go to Wupatki and see some of the cliff dwellings, but I took the wrong way out of the park. (I think because the canyon edge is to the north, and the Pacific is to the south, I got north and south, east and west flipped around in my head). Since I realized it too late, I decided instead to take the old Rte 66 turnoff from Kingman. I filled up with $2.89/gallon gas in Kingman, AZ. The route is a BLM “Backcountry Byway”, paved and windy. It passes thru Oatman, which I had seen mentioned on Fodor’s. The desert/volcanic scenery reminded me a bit of Death Valley. Oatman has a “ghost town” Main Street worthy of Frontierland, with a few authentic-looking characters, and “wild” burros walking thru the middle of town, sticking their heads into storefronts for a handout! Let’s see Disney add THAT!
Taking the detour added about an hour to my trip, but was definitely worthwhile. The road continues on thru the inappropriately-named “Golden Shores” and rejoins the I-40 at the Colorado River. The rest of the trip was uneventful, although delayed by 45-mph “work” zones in which I saw cones, but no work, and CHP waiting to hand out speeding tickets. I managed to go the whole trip w/o a ticket! I got back home about 8:30 pm after stopping for a tank fill and car wash in Diamond Bar.
I picked up a great book in Zion “Photographing the Southwest (Vol I).” Lots of ideas for the next trip(s)!
Day 1-Depart Long Beach, 9 am. Destination, Zion NP.
I came up I-15, passing by Las Vegas about 1:30 pm. I laughed at the traffic heading back toward LA. I don’t think I want to visit LV. Looks ghastly. Reached Mesquite in another hour (2:30 pm). It might be worth a golf trip. Newish Falcon Ridge seemed like a good lodging choice, but it wasn’t close enough to Zion for this trip. The Virgin River Valley area was scenic, with lots of golf opportunities and subdivisions. The little town before Springdale, Rockville, seems quaint and charming for a restful B&B type stay. I got to Springdale 4 pm LA time, early enough to head straight to Zion. I took the shuttle to the Lodge for the trail to Emerald Pools (Middle and Lower). There were a couple of the canyon tree-frogs in one of the pools, making a heck of a racket. They sound like bleating sheep! Also, I hadn’t expected to see wild turkeys all over the place, slowing down the shuttle busses. Made a quick stop at Court of the Patriarchs and ate picnic dinner while admiring the view. Returned to Motel in time for sunset and tea.
Pit Stop: I had reserved the Bumbleberry Motel, Springdale,UT ($98 including tax). Not a great value but then it was still the holiday and a lot of places were full. It was an average motel room, coffee maker, no frig or breakfast. It did have a balcony that faced the Watchman-side cliffs. I was in the last row of units which overlooked a little field with a rooster that made sure I got up early. Nice Sunset view. I walked across the street to the gallery and bought a poster from David Pettit’s gallery next to Zion Pizza and Noodle Co. Good smells coming from that direction, and they serve alcohol. There was no way I could capture that image of the Narrows without a large-format camera, tripod and a wide-angle lens. He says he uses a $50K drum scanner on his film negatives, and ships the final image on a CD to Colorado for printing. On the way across the parking lot in the dark, I think I saw a ring-tailed cat. It looked sort of like a cat, but the proportions were off. Or maybe it WAS a mutant cat.
Day 2, Zion to Monument Valley. Thanks to the rooster, I got up early. FIVE AM California Time. Took sunrise photos from out back of the museum. Then out toward the east entrance to the Canyon Overlook trail. Despite being labeled “easy” (NOT!, I think “moderate” is more appropriate), there was enough exposure to long drops to convince me that I was too acrophobic for Angel’s Landing Trail. Nice early morning lighting and saw some native columbines and orchids (“giant helleborine”). Then to Riverside Walk and waded up the Narrows until the water reached just below groin level. I decided that I did not want cold wet underwear for several hours, so turned around. Should have worn a bathing suit underneath. It was fun, though. My Timberland hiking boots with the Kevlar lining didn’t suffer from being submerged. Got a great photo of the group ahead that kept on going. Left on Route 9) by 2 pm. Saw lots of arches and cross bedding, bringing back memories of Orme’s geomorphology class.
Took 89A by the Vermillion Cliffs and reached Navajo Bridge at the Colorado by 4:20 pm. Unfortunately, at sunset, I was only at El Capitan, not Monument Valley. My only solace is that the digital camera does not like sunsets.
Pit Stop: I didn’t have a reservation, and wasn’t sure if I should stop at the Anasazi Inn or continue on to Goulding’s. I though that MAYBE I could catch some late sunset rays at Goulding’s. I got there around 8:15 pm. Not much. But I did get a “room” with Autoclub discount, for $131, which turned out to be a 2-bedroom mobile home with real kitchen, known as Gouldings “House.” For décor, think 1976. The living room does have a view toward the park, but it’s fairly distant. The main advantage of Goulding’s is in being so close to the park.
Day 3 Monument Valley to Grand Canyon. As soon as I realized it was light outside, (4:11 AM California time), I made coffee and headed for the Monument Valley park. I really had NO idea what time zone I was in. There was no one at the parking lot and everything around the visitor center said “Closed, Do not enter”. I pulled up to the ticket window, the reflective glass window slid open, and, “Yes, we’re open” and have been for ½ hour! (It was 6:30 AM Navajo Nation time). Five dollars later, my trusty Mazda with the nearly new, expensive soft racing tires, headed down the 17-mile jeep trail. It’s really not that bad. A few holes, a few ruts, a few rocks best avoided, a bit of sand. No problem. I was virtually alone for 2.5 hours, with no wind and “golden hour” lighting. Absolutely magical until 9am when the vendors and jeeps appeared. It was time to return to Goulding’s, have breakfast, and check out. I stopped by the Museum and looked at the exhibits, including some of “Happy” Cly, a Navajo weaver who was featured in a lot of the photos and films made in Monument Valley in the early years. I checked out at 11 am Goulding’s time. (Nice touch, they have a clock on the OUTSIDE of the motel office).
Just a mile or so down Hwy 89, I was drawn toward a largish group of vendor stalls on the right. Normally I don’t stop at tourist traps. I found one stall that seemed to have tasteful and inexpensive beaded necklaces (the $5 ones are a steal!). I spent ½ hour shopping and chatting with the young woman in the store. Turned out she was the great-grand-daughter of “Happy Cly” and her uncle is featured in the acclaimed documentary “Return of Navajo Boy.” (www.navajoboy.com). I spent $40 on some pretty neat bead necklaces made by Talethia (sp?) Begay and her mother. I am definitely going to track down that video.
I stopped for an hour or so at Navajo National Monument. It was a pleasant trail to an overlook for the Betatakin cliff dwellings. The nature trail signs were especially informative about plant uses. There were demonstrations inside the small visitor center of a basketmaker and a weaver, and a recreation of a family unit at a Hopi dwelling. The dwellings can only be visited by a daily guided walk rated strenuous, 5 miles.
At the next stop, Cameron, the challenge was to find the restrooms. The trading post is not my cup of tea, but the gallery was amazing. The antique textiles, include a $325,000 First Phase Chief blanket…I remember one showed up on the Antiques Roadshow and gave them palpitations.
Onward to Grand Canyon, arriving via the east entrance, restroom destination Desert View about 5 pm. Walked to the top of the Watchtower, tested the ilio-tibial band knee-issue, and the answer was, NOT walking very far into the Grand Canyon the next day. Saw the sunset at Mather Point. The digital camera does not like sunsets, but I did get one that turned out great!
Pit Stop: “Historic Cabin” at Bright Angel. Booked a week before on the internet, must have been a cancellation. $89/nt, I think it’s a remarkable deal. It took a bit of hunting to find in the dark, even with a map. It was small, with a refrigerator, TV, & phone with FREE 800 calls. No A/C, but it cools off quickly with the cross-ventilation and ceiling fan. I could park right outside. The site planning is thoughtful; cabins are artfully angled across the site, instead of being lined up in a row, so you feel as if you are in your own little house. Each cabin is slightly different, color scheme with orange, cobalt, and jade green millwork, and Navajo red wooden walls, with a few stucco or stacked rock walls thrown in. There is no coffeemaker or cooking in the rooms (however, tell that to my Rival Hot Pot Express).
Day 4. Grand Canyon. The first morning I didn’t make it up for sunrise, but still fairly early. Tried my knee on the Bright Angel Trail. I walked down 20 minutes on the first few more gentle switchbacks, but stopped at tighter steeper ones. Coming back up was not a problem, since I got the pacing right. Walked most of the West Rim trail, starting with the aptly named “Abyss” section. The last part cuts inland and there is a wide gravel road you can walk on, but there wasn’t much shade on it, so I cut in and out of the smaller paths thru the pine/juniper forest. There were a few claret cup cactus in bloom, they really glow scarlet red. About 3pm I reached the last stop (Hermit’s Rest) and decided it was getting to hot and my cabin was calling for a nap.
At sunset, I joined the mad crowds lined up for the shuttle busses fort Hopi Point. If you walk out to the right, you can have a little elbow room and watch the changing light in the canyon. I didn’t feel a need to stare at the sun while it set, since the damn camera won’t shoot straight into the sun. I did get one shot at about 20 minutes after the sun went down that was alright. The whole scene reminds me of Disneyland, during the fireworks, only less organized. I decided to walk back. I should have brought a flashlight, but not having one made me walk faster. It took less than an hour to get back.
Day 5. Grand Canyon to Los Angeles via Oatman.
A bit after sunset, walked east along the Rim, looked at the Historic Buildings and got within a few feet of a cute pygmy nuthatch. When I returned, the California Condors were performing in front of the Bright Angel Lodge. Someone cited a ranger that the birds had to be trained to roll over the canyon edge, when a predator approached. Hopping away wasn’t working. Someone else commented that if he got a good photo, he would feel like he got his money’s worth from his tax dollars. The condors cooperated. At 9 am or so, I went to the Arizona Lodge history room that has displays on the Harvey Girls and Mary Jane Colter. She designed most of the cool buildings at the GC, as well as the restaurant at Union Station. Skimmed thru one of the two books about her that was for sale. When she was a girl, she wanted to become an artist, but her parents thought that was frivolous. When her father died, she persuaded her mother to let her go to art school in San Francisco so that she could become an art teacher and support the family. She apprenticed at an architect’s office (not many schools taught architecture). She was hired by Fred Harvey to design buildings She was strong enough to stand up to contractors and builders, appreciated art, regional architecture, knew exactly what colors she wanted, yet didn’t get the respect she deserved. I took a snap of an old photo of her and Mrs. Ickes. She was short, too! YOU GO, GIRL! http://www.kaibab.org/gc/images/mjcolter.htm
I checked out about 11:15 am, and left just as the train from Williams was pulling in. My plan had been to go to Wupatki and see some of the cliff dwellings, but I took the wrong way out of the park. (I think because the canyon edge is to the north, and the Pacific is to the south, I got north and south, east and west flipped around in my head). Since I realized it too late, I decided instead to take the old Rte 66 turnoff from Kingman. I filled up with $2.89/gallon gas in Kingman, AZ. The route is a BLM “Backcountry Byway”, paved and windy. It passes thru Oatman, which I had seen mentioned on Fodor’s. The desert/volcanic scenery reminded me a bit of Death Valley. Oatman has a “ghost town” Main Street worthy of Frontierland, with a few authentic-looking characters, and “wild” burros walking thru the middle of town, sticking their heads into storefronts for a handout! Let’s see Disney add THAT!
Taking the detour added about an hour to my trip, but was definitely worthwhile. The road continues on thru the inappropriately-named “Golden Shores” and rejoins the I-40 at the Colorado River. The rest of the trip was uneventful, although delayed by 45-mph “work” zones in which I saw cones, but no work, and CHP waiting to hand out speeding tickets. I managed to go the whole trip w/o a ticket! I got back home about 8:30 pm after stopping for a tank fill and car wash in Diamond Bar.
I picked up a great book in Zion “Photographing the Southwest (Vol I).” Lots of ideas for the next trip(s)!
Jun 19th, 2006 | 06:16 AM
#3
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 977
Likes: 0
Wow, great trip report...thanks.
I can't wait to get back to the Four Corners area.
One question though...you make a couple of remarks about your digital camera and shooting sunsets...what's up with that? I've owned several digital cameras and have shot many sunsets with no ill effects.
What makes you believe that your camera won't?
I can't wait to get back to the Four Corners area.
One question though...you make a couple of remarks about your digital camera and shooting sunsets...what's up with that? I've owned several digital cameras and have shot many sunsets with no ill effects.
What makes you believe that your camera won't?
Oh, I'd rather be there now!
Jun 19th, 2006 | 10:12 AM
#6
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 25,597
Likes: 0
Funny about the digital camera, it just beeps and beeps and locks up when I point it in to the sun. The best I can do is wait til after the sun is down a bit and use the nighttime setting.
I was sorry I missed Wupatiki. Next time!
I was sorry I missed Wupatiki. Next time!
