Trip Report---Hiking the Grand Canyon from Rim to Rim with a Bunch of Brits, aka How I Learned to Pronounce "Toe-mah-toe" in 5 Easy Lessons
Oct 16th, 2008, 09:14 AM
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Day 2: Down to Phantom Ranch. Knees, don't fail me now!
We awoke in the dark to the sound of a barking dog---the tone my husband chose from his I-Phone, to approximate our alarm clock at home (a Labrador retriever).
I jumped out of bed, very eager to get started on the hike down into the canyon. Happened to glance at my watch as I reached for my toothbrush and saw it was only 4:00 am! I know some R2R hikers like to start hiking in the middle of the night, but we had planned on a more civilized hour to start, catching the 7:10 am hiker's shuttle. We didn't need to get up until 6:00. I told my husband it was only 4:00 and he groaned.
What happened was this: the I-Phone recognized that we were in Arizona, but apparently didn't realize that they don't do daylight savings time. The I-Phone was an hour off, on MDT instead of MST. To adjust for that, my husband compensated by adding an hour when he set the alarm---an hour in the wrong direction. I forgave him and we tried to get back to sleep for 2 more hours.
At 6:00 we rose and he took our luggage to the car while I went to make sure the check-out went smoothly for everyone in the group (remember all the rooms were in my name). The hiker's shuttle was already waiting in front of the lodge entrance, so we all handed up our backpacks to the driver, who stowed them on top. Then we had time to scrounge some breakfast. These were the options: the saloon opens as a coffee bar at 5:30 am, but serves only coffee, tea, and some breakfast breads like cinnamon rolls and bagels—not enough to fuel a 14-mile hike. The dining room opens at 6:30, and although it serves a buffet breakfast no one wanted to pay that much and eat in a hurry. So we all decided to hit the deli, which opens at 7:00 and offers a number of "grab and go" options, like yogurt/granola cups, sausage and egg breakfast wraps, and freshly-made sandwiches. I think one reason they schedule the shuttle for 7:10 is to allow people a chance to get in the deli for their breakfast and lunch food. It worked out really well---everyone bought their coffee or tea earlier from the coffee bar, then bought food from the deli, and we climbed in the van for the 2-mile trip to the North Kaibab trailhead.
Why the shuttle? We all had rental cars, but no one wanted to leave their car parked along the road for the 3 days we would be gone (the parking lot at the trailhead fills up early, well before 7:am). The shuttle, at $5 per person, was a good option for us; we could leave our cars in the lodge parking lot and not worry about them. If you want to do this, you must reserve the shuttle the previous day.
We were at the trailhead and ready to start walking down at 7:30. We had a 14-mile hike ahead of us, with 5800 feet of elevation to lose along the way. If you are not a hiker, you might not recognize that this is LOT of downhill. We routinely do hikes with 3000-3500 feet of gain and loss—considered a strenuous hike. And we had hiked into the canyon from the South Rim twice before, losing 4800 feet, on the 7-mile long South Kaibab trail. That was hard enough on the feet and knees, and I was worried about that extra 1000 feet we had to drop, as well as the extra 7 miles of walking.
It was lovely and cool as we started down through forest into Roaring Canyon, but we knew the day would heat up as we descended. We also knew it was not realistic to keep all 12 people together, so I gave each person a copy of the Phantom Ranch reservation confirmation, made sure they knew where the water stops were, and sent them off to enjoy the day at their own pace. The trail is well-built and well marked; it is not like anyone could get lost, although one could inadvertently add miles to the hike by taking one of the short sidetrips. A very able and experienced British mountaineer brought up the rear and acted as "sweep", because he wanted lots of time to take photographs.
I won't go into great detail about the trail itself—words cannot convey how spectacular it is. If you would like to see photos, there are good ones (not mine) in this website:
http://www.genehanson.com/cany2004/page1.htm The North Kaibab trail photos start on page 2. Note that Gene Hanson was doing this hike from rim to rim all in one day, carrying only light gear and enough food and water for the day. We did it in two day, carrying clothes, personal items and snacks in our daypacks, but no camping gear or huge quantities of food as we had beds, dinners, and breakfast awaiting us at Phantom Ranch. Most rim to rim hikers take camping gear and spend 3 or more days on this hike, breaking the hike up or the hike down, or both, into 2 days with overnight stops at the campgrounds halfway between the rim and the canyon bottom. For the North Kaibab trail, there is Cottonwood Camp at the halfway point; for the Bright Angel trail to the South Rim, there is Indian Gardens. The campground at the bottom is also named Bright Angel. (Sometimes it seems like everything at the Grand Canyon is named Bright Angel.) For any of these campgrounds you need a backcountry camping permit, which is almost as difficult to get as a reservation at Phantom Ranch.
Although I was worried about my knees holding up on the descent, as it turned out, the North Kaibab trail seemed much easier than the shorter South Kaibab. I attribute this to the absence of those dreaded “steps” one must negotiate on the SK trail. These are large wooden steps, like railroad ties, laid across the trail at intervals to prevent erosion and to keep the mules from slipping. The mules’ feet often dig a big pit behind each step, and you end up going from the pit, up and over the wooden step, down into the next pit, and so on, and on, and on. It is very hard on a small, short-legged person like me (I am all of 5'2"), and it would be impossible without hiking poles. Without those steps, the North Kaibab trail was a joy.
I walked and talked with various people, and arrived at Cottonwood Camp, with 2/3 of the elevation already lost, before I knew it. And there I faced disappointment—no husband. I had lost track of him earlier, but assumed he was up ahead, hiking with our friend Sharon from Seattle, a very fast hiker. I was a bit miffed because he had chivalrously insisted on carrying our lunches, so he wasn’t supposed to go off and leave me. I assumed he would be waiting for me at Cottonwood Camp, but no. Muttering under my breath about how inconsiderate he was to leave me with nothing to eat but a bit of the trail mix I always carry, I found a table in deep shade under a cottonwood tree, and sat down to wait for the rest of the group to arrive. This was a welcome rest stop, as the day was starting to heat up, although it was only 10:30 am. This could be the last shade for miles.
As members of the group arrived, I quizzed everyone, but no one had seen my husband pass them. I wasn’t worried, because if he had been hurt or otherwise in trouble, he would have stopped and the last person coming along would have met him. When that person, the photographer, arrived with no sightings of DH, I was sure he had gone ahead with Sharon (who is so fast we nicknamed her “the Cheetah” after hiking with her a few times at home). I was just about to accept offers of food from the others when DH showed up, a bit embarrassed because he had mistakenly taken the side trail down to Roaring Springs (a 1/4 mile diversion) and ended up at the back of the pack. My annoyance dissolved into relief at seeing him (and my lunch), and I decided not to let him out of my sight the rest of the day.
After we ate lunch and rested at bit longer in the shade, we refilled our water bottles, wet our shirts (amid inevitable jokes about a wet T-shirt contest), and set out with two of the UK women to make the short side trip to Ribbon Falls. I reminded everyone that the next few miles would offer little shade, but they would find some about 3 miles down, where the trail enters the narrowed canyon known as “the Box”, along Bright Angel (!) creek. Although the dark canyon walls do tend to trap the heat, they also offer welcome shade for long stretches, even at midday.
We are halfway to Phantom Ranch and the bottom of the canyon. . 7 miles to go. TBC.
We awoke in the dark to the sound of a barking dog---the tone my husband chose from his I-Phone, to approximate our alarm clock at home (a Labrador retriever).
I jumped out of bed, very eager to get started on the hike down into the canyon. Happened to glance at my watch as I reached for my toothbrush and saw it was only 4:00 am! I know some R2R hikers like to start hiking in the middle of the night, but we had planned on a more civilized hour to start, catching the 7:10 am hiker's shuttle. We didn't need to get up until 6:00. I told my husband it was only 4:00 and he groaned.
What happened was this: the I-Phone recognized that we were in Arizona, but apparently didn't realize that they don't do daylight savings time. The I-Phone was an hour off, on MDT instead of MST. To adjust for that, my husband compensated by adding an hour when he set the alarm---an hour in the wrong direction. I forgave him and we tried to get back to sleep for 2 more hours.
At 6:00 we rose and he took our luggage to the car while I went to make sure the check-out went smoothly for everyone in the group (remember all the rooms were in my name). The hiker's shuttle was already waiting in front of the lodge entrance, so we all handed up our backpacks to the driver, who stowed them on top. Then we had time to scrounge some breakfast. These were the options: the saloon opens as a coffee bar at 5:30 am, but serves only coffee, tea, and some breakfast breads like cinnamon rolls and bagels—not enough to fuel a 14-mile hike. The dining room opens at 6:30, and although it serves a buffet breakfast no one wanted to pay that much and eat in a hurry. So we all decided to hit the deli, which opens at 7:00 and offers a number of "grab and go" options, like yogurt/granola cups, sausage and egg breakfast wraps, and freshly-made sandwiches. I think one reason they schedule the shuttle for 7:10 is to allow people a chance to get in the deli for their breakfast and lunch food. It worked out really well---everyone bought their coffee or tea earlier from the coffee bar, then bought food from the deli, and we climbed in the van for the 2-mile trip to the North Kaibab trailhead.
Why the shuttle? We all had rental cars, but no one wanted to leave their car parked along the road for the 3 days we would be gone (the parking lot at the trailhead fills up early, well before 7:am). The shuttle, at $5 per person, was a good option for us; we could leave our cars in the lodge parking lot and not worry about them. If you want to do this, you must reserve the shuttle the previous day.
We were at the trailhead and ready to start walking down at 7:30. We had a 14-mile hike ahead of us, with 5800 feet of elevation to lose along the way. If you are not a hiker, you might not recognize that this is LOT of downhill. We routinely do hikes with 3000-3500 feet of gain and loss—considered a strenuous hike. And we had hiked into the canyon from the South Rim twice before, losing 4800 feet, on the 7-mile long South Kaibab trail. That was hard enough on the feet and knees, and I was worried about that extra 1000 feet we had to drop, as well as the extra 7 miles of walking.
It was lovely and cool as we started down through forest into Roaring Canyon, but we knew the day would heat up as we descended. We also knew it was not realistic to keep all 12 people together, so I gave each person a copy of the Phantom Ranch reservation confirmation, made sure they knew where the water stops were, and sent them off to enjoy the day at their own pace. The trail is well-built and well marked; it is not like anyone could get lost, although one could inadvertently add miles to the hike by taking one of the short sidetrips. A very able and experienced British mountaineer brought up the rear and acted as "sweep", because he wanted lots of time to take photographs.
I won't go into great detail about the trail itself—words cannot convey how spectacular it is. If you would like to see photos, there are good ones (not mine) in this website:
http://www.genehanson.com/cany2004/page1.htm The North Kaibab trail photos start on page 2. Note that Gene Hanson was doing this hike from rim to rim all in one day, carrying only light gear and enough food and water for the day. We did it in two day, carrying clothes, personal items and snacks in our daypacks, but no camping gear or huge quantities of food as we had beds, dinners, and breakfast awaiting us at Phantom Ranch. Most rim to rim hikers take camping gear and spend 3 or more days on this hike, breaking the hike up or the hike down, or both, into 2 days with overnight stops at the campgrounds halfway between the rim and the canyon bottom. For the North Kaibab trail, there is Cottonwood Camp at the halfway point; for the Bright Angel trail to the South Rim, there is Indian Gardens. The campground at the bottom is also named Bright Angel. (Sometimes it seems like everything at the Grand Canyon is named Bright Angel.) For any of these campgrounds you need a backcountry camping permit, which is almost as difficult to get as a reservation at Phantom Ranch.
Although I was worried about my knees holding up on the descent, as it turned out, the North Kaibab trail seemed much easier than the shorter South Kaibab. I attribute this to the absence of those dreaded “steps” one must negotiate on the SK trail. These are large wooden steps, like railroad ties, laid across the trail at intervals to prevent erosion and to keep the mules from slipping. The mules’ feet often dig a big pit behind each step, and you end up going from the pit, up and over the wooden step, down into the next pit, and so on, and on, and on. It is very hard on a small, short-legged person like me (I am all of 5'2"), and it would be impossible without hiking poles. Without those steps, the North Kaibab trail was a joy.
I walked and talked with various people, and arrived at Cottonwood Camp, with 2/3 of the elevation already lost, before I knew it. And there I faced disappointment—no husband. I had lost track of him earlier, but assumed he was up ahead, hiking with our friend Sharon from Seattle, a very fast hiker. I was a bit miffed because he had chivalrously insisted on carrying our lunches, so he wasn’t supposed to go off and leave me. I assumed he would be waiting for me at Cottonwood Camp, but no. Muttering under my breath about how inconsiderate he was to leave me with nothing to eat but a bit of the trail mix I always carry, I found a table in deep shade under a cottonwood tree, and sat down to wait for the rest of the group to arrive. This was a welcome rest stop, as the day was starting to heat up, although it was only 10:30 am. This could be the last shade for miles.
As members of the group arrived, I quizzed everyone, but no one had seen my husband pass them. I wasn’t worried, because if he had been hurt or otherwise in trouble, he would have stopped and the last person coming along would have met him. When that person, the photographer, arrived with no sightings of DH, I was sure he had gone ahead with Sharon (who is so fast we nicknamed her “the Cheetah” after hiking with her a few times at home). I was just about to accept offers of food from the others when DH showed up, a bit embarrassed because he had mistakenly taken the side trail down to Roaring Springs (a 1/4 mile diversion) and ended up at the back of the pack. My annoyance dissolved into relief at seeing him (and my lunch), and I decided not to let him out of my sight the rest of the day.
After we ate lunch and rested at bit longer in the shade, we refilled our water bottles, wet our shirts (amid inevitable jokes about a wet T-shirt contest), and set out with two of the UK women to make the short side trip to Ribbon Falls. I reminded everyone that the next few miles would offer little shade, but they would find some about 3 miles down, where the trail enters the narrowed canyon known as “the Box”, along Bright Angel (!) creek. Although the dark canyon walls do tend to trap the heat, they also offer welcome shade for long stretches, even at midday.
We are halfway to Phantom Ranch and the bottom of the canyon. . 7 miles to go. TBC.
Oct 16th, 2008, 10:01 AM
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I'm so glad to hear North Kaibab doesn't have all those steps. South Kaibab did a real number on my knees. My left leg was totally stiff by the time I reached PR.
I've wanted to do the canyon again but was really afraid to try because of that. I'll just plan it from the north. I have visited there and like the area better than the south rim area.
Thanks---I'm really enjoying reading your report--brings back lots of good memories.
I've wanted to do the canyon again but was really afraid to try because of that. I'll just plan it from the north. I have visited there and like the area better than the south rim area.
Thanks---I'm really enjoying reading your report--brings back lots of good memories.
Oct 17th, 2008, 10:59 AM
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Day 2, continued. . .
Ribbon Falls is a short side trip off the North Kaibab trail, described in the guidebooks as a lovely green oasis. Although the day was heating up (close to 90 degrees in the shade at 11 am), most of us decided to make the trip. We dropped our daypacks at the trail junction, where a bridge crossed Bright Angel Creek, and followed the side trail for 1/4 mile or so. We came to a small creek with a noisy cataract—not the falls , but lovely and refreshing to find running water in this arid landscape. But the trail seemed to end there. We could see the actual falls—a wispy little veil of water this late in September—but could not see the way there. I had read mixed reports about getting to the falls—some involving scrambling on slippery rocks, or bushwhacking, or even losing the trail entirely. With the increasing heat and the 7 miles yet to go heavy on our minds, we decided to content ourselves with that distant view, and head back to the main trail to continue our trek. (After wetting our shirts again, of course).
I want to say a few words about dressing for this hike. You will see a lot of bare skin while hiking in the canyon---hopefully well-treated with sunscreen. On this hike, we actually encountered few other hikers, maybe 7 or 8 all day. But on past hikes, we’ve seen a goodly number of men hiking shirtless and women in bare camis and short shorts. My experience is that the direct sum on bare skin, even slathered with SPF 50 sunscreen, is just plain HOT. So in the canyon, I prefer to hike "covered up". I wear lightweight nylon capris, SPF 50, with a long-sleeved lightweight woven poly shirt (also high SPF), over a sleeveless wicking tee so I can unbutton the shirt. Once we got out of the cool of the morning shade, I started wetting the sleeves and shoulders of the shirt at every opportunity. It helped a lot.
For a hat, I like a broad-brim one, specifically a cotton Tilley hat rather than a floppy one. I stow a wet bandanna in the crown, and several times I wet the whole hat. Evaporative cooling is a wondrous thing.
Some people prefer carrying an umbrella to wearing a hat. Seriously. As we hiked along just below our lunch stop, we met a ranger coming the other way, hatless and carrying a lime-green parasol. She looked fresh and perky, and stopped to engage us in conversation, but did not ask to see our permits—maybe we didn’t look the part of sneaky illicit campers. She did ask if we knew the woman she had passed on the trail shortly before encountering us. She was worried about this woman because she did not “make eye contact”, and the ranger thought she might have zoned out because she wasn’t eating and drinking enough. She gave us the little lecture—to combat the heat, eating is just as important as drinking, even if you don’t feel hungry. We all nodded.
We knew the woman walking ahead of us was Margaret, the 74-year old, and we assured the ranger she was just fine. Margaret was second only to The Cheetah in hiking speed, and although she was fun and sociable at the end of the day, she preferred to hike alone. She is an able and experienced mountain climber and knows how to care for herself, so we knew the ranger’s concern was unfounded. We did promise to look into her nutritional status when we saw her, . but we all knew we wouldn’t catch up with her until we reached Phantom.
Still, it is good to know that the rangers patrol the trails, and check on everyone’s well-being. Apparently some 200+ people have to be rescued from the canyon every year. You don’t want to be counted among them.
Several people in our group saw rattlesnakes along the trail, but not I.
After several miles of crossing an open plateau, away from Bright Angel Creek, the trail drops into the narrow canyon it formed before meeting the Colorado, and clings to ledges between the creek and the canyon walls. This last, nearly-level 4-mile stretch seems to go on forever, because it is hot and one’s feet are tired. But it is beautiful and there are sections of deep shade from the canyon walls. As you approach Phantom, you can find outcroppings of the black Vishnu Schist, which is really, really old (generally said to be around 1.8 billion years old).
Husband and I arrived at Phantom just before 3 pm, after 7 hours of hiking and 30 minutes’ worth of rest stops. We found five of our group already there, including Margaret and the Cheetah. They were all sitting on the benches in front of the group cabin and enjoying the perks of getting to Phantom before 4 pm---big glasses of lemonade. After greetings all around, I stepped inside our cabin to a wonderful surprise---it was cool!!! We debated whether it was a real air conditioner or a "swamp cooler" as some called it, but whatever it was, it worked. It was a pleasant 70-something inside the cabin, and around 90 outside. I chose a bed from among the 5 sets of bunks (top bunk, near the door), and put my pack there. It was good to take it off at last.
DH went off to find his bed in the mens’ dorm. Since there were 12 in our group and only 10 beds in the group cabin, 2 of the men had to take places in the hiker’s dorm. One space went to the sole single guy on the trip. Since we were co-hosts for the group, I asked my husband to take the other dorm spot. It seemed to me there would be little difference between sleeping in a bunk bed in the 10-person group cabin (with friends) and sleeping in a bunk bed in the 12-person mens’ dorm (with strangers). Apparently I was wrong. He may forgive me someday.
After finding our beds, we sat with the others and enjoyed a lemonade/iced tea ($2.50 for the first glass, $1.00 refills). Then I filled up two water bottles with ice and water, and set out back up the trail to find the rest of my "flock". I hoped to bring them to Phantom before the canteen closed at 4:00. I walked for 25 minutes before I spotted the last five---almost a mile from Phantom. I handed the ice water all around, and then we all hustled that last mile back just in time for lemonade.
Next we all partook of the real benefit of staying at Phantom Ranch----showers! I actually prefer sleeping at the campground (Bright Angel, of course), but that shower opportunity makes Phantom a very attractive option. My husband led a few people down to the Colorado for a look and a quick dip in the cold water (the current is too strong and dangerous for a real swim, but you can sit in the water near shore). Then a few of us pulled out bottles of wine we had carried down the trail, and settled around a picnic table to read and relax before our 6:30 pm dinner.
Dinner at Phantom is served family-style, in two sittings. The 5:00 dinner is steak, baked potatoes with all the fixings, salad, vegetable and bread. The 6:30 dinner is beef stew or vegetarian chili, salad, and cornbread. Both come with iced tea, coffee/tea, and big slabs of chocolate cake for dessert. Everything is on the table when you are seated, and there is an initial flurry of passing and serving before everyone digs in. They will bring refills on request, and I think we must have refilled our salad bowl 2 or 3 times. They also have beer and wine available for purchase.
So here comes the “international incident”.
A number of us ordered glasses of wine, which were brought about 10 minutes later. We were all happily eating, talking about the day’s adventure, and passing food around. One of the Brits, whom I shall call Tony, did not touch his glass of red wine until they brought dessert. Either he was more focused on refueling after the day’s hike, or wanted to think of it as a nice glass of port, to enjoy after the meal. All of us felt a bit rushed—they started asking us to pass plates to they could clear the tables even before we had started on dessert. At 7:15 they announced they needed to clear the room to clean up and set up to re-open as a canteen at 8:00. Most people left the room, but a few at our table (we were the table farthest from the door, and the last served) lingered to finish the cake and continued chatting. I told Tony I would sit with him while he enjoyed his wine. They started clearing around us, but by 7:30 we were the only ones left, and one of the employees said we had to leave. Tony’s glass was still nearly full. I went and grabbed a paper cup for him to pour the wine into to take outside—like we did at Grand Canyon Lodge. The employee said we couldn’t do that—their license was for “on-site” consumption only. He pointed to the small sign on the door leading outside. It said “Alcohol purchased here must be consumed on the premises”. And he mentioned there was a $500 fine for violations. Then he picked up some dishes and headed back to the kitchen.
Tony quickly poured his wine into the cup, and we headed for the door. Said employee burst out of the kitchen, shouting, “Sir! Do you have wine in that cup?” Tony nodded in the affirmative. The employee pointed to the sign again, and said we could not take the wine out of the room. Tony protested that he had not been given enough time to drink his wine, they rushed us so (very true). And I said that we were only going as far as the stone steps just on the other side of the door—surely that is still part of the “premises”? (And here the lawyer in me is silently considering the meaning of the term “premises”—which arguably would mean the entire building, including the attached stone steps, or perhaps even all of Phantom Ranch. Black’s Law Dictionary defines “premises” as “land and tenements; an estate, including buildings thereon; . . . a distinct and definite locality, and may mean a room, shop, building, or other definite area. . . . Land and its appurtenances.”)
But I didn’t feel like arguing, beyond asserting that the attached steps were indeed part of the “premises”. In response, he said “If you take one step outside that door I will call the ranger to have you both arrested.” Hmmmm. I was pretty sure the ranger would be a whole lot more reasonable than this officious employee, and see no harm in our carrying 5 ounces of wine to the steps, about 2 feet outside the door, so Tony could finish his beverage. After all, it certainly was not illegal to consume wine outside the dining room—we had enjoyed our aperitif, the wine we had carried down rather than purchased at Phantom, at a picnic table a few yards away from the dining room. And once Tony said a word, the ranger would know he was a foreign visitor—what ranger would want to cause international bad feeling by arresting him? Or I could say it was all my fault, and take the rap myself. But that would mean a return to Arizona at some point in the future to appear in court, at considerable expense. Was it worth it? I didn’t have to decide, because at this point a thoroughly disgusted Tony set down the cup and stomped out of the dining room without another word.
I followed him out and went to find my husband and the others at the ranger talk.
Ribbon Falls is a short side trip off the North Kaibab trail, described in the guidebooks as a lovely green oasis. Although the day was heating up (close to 90 degrees in the shade at 11 am), most of us decided to make the trip. We dropped our daypacks at the trail junction, where a bridge crossed Bright Angel Creek, and followed the side trail for 1/4 mile or so. We came to a small creek with a noisy cataract—not the falls , but lovely and refreshing to find running water in this arid landscape. But the trail seemed to end there. We could see the actual falls—a wispy little veil of water this late in September—but could not see the way there. I had read mixed reports about getting to the falls—some involving scrambling on slippery rocks, or bushwhacking, or even losing the trail entirely. With the increasing heat and the 7 miles yet to go heavy on our minds, we decided to content ourselves with that distant view, and head back to the main trail to continue our trek. (After wetting our shirts again, of course).
I want to say a few words about dressing for this hike. You will see a lot of bare skin while hiking in the canyon---hopefully well-treated with sunscreen. On this hike, we actually encountered few other hikers, maybe 7 or 8 all day. But on past hikes, we’ve seen a goodly number of men hiking shirtless and women in bare camis and short shorts. My experience is that the direct sum on bare skin, even slathered with SPF 50 sunscreen, is just plain HOT. So in the canyon, I prefer to hike "covered up". I wear lightweight nylon capris, SPF 50, with a long-sleeved lightweight woven poly shirt (also high SPF), over a sleeveless wicking tee so I can unbutton the shirt. Once we got out of the cool of the morning shade, I started wetting the sleeves and shoulders of the shirt at every opportunity. It helped a lot.
For a hat, I like a broad-brim one, specifically a cotton Tilley hat rather than a floppy one. I stow a wet bandanna in the crown, and several times I wet the whole hat. Evaporative cooling is a wondrous thing.
Some people prefer carrying an umbrella to wearing a hat. Seriously. As we hiked along just below our lunch stop, we met a ranger coming the other way, hatless and carrying a lime-green parasol. She looked fresh and perky, and stopped to engage us in conversation, but did not ask to see our permits—maybe we didn’t look the part of sneaky illicit campers. She did ask if we knew the woman she had passed on the trail shortly before encountering us. She was worried about this woman because she did not “make eye contact”, and the ranger thought she might have zoned out because she wasn’t eating and drinking enough. She gave us the little lecture—to combat the heat, eating is just as important as drinking, even if you don’t feel hungry. We all nodded.
We knew the woman walking ahead of us was Margaret, the 74-year old, and we assured the ranger she was just fine. Margaret was second only to The Cheetah in hiking speed, and although she was fun and sociable at the end of the day, she preferred to hike alone. She is an able and experienced mountain climber and knows how to care for herself, so we knew the ranger’s concern was unfounded. We did promise to look into her nutritional status when we saw her, . but we all knew we wouldn’t catch up with her until we reached Phantom.
Still, it is good to know that the rangers patrol the trails, and check on everyone’s well-being. Apparently some 200+ people have to be rescued from the canyon every year. You don’t want to be counted among them.
Several people in our group saw rattlesnakes along the trail, but not I.
After several miles of crossing an open plateau, away from Bright Angel Creek, the trail drops into the narrow canyon it formed before meeting the Colorado, and clings to ledges between the creek and the canyon walls. This last, nearly-level 4-mile stretch seems to go on forever, because it is hot and one’s feet are tired. But it is beautiful and there are sections of deep shade from the canyon walls. As you approach Phantom, you can find outcroppings of the black Vishnu Schist, which is really, really old (generally said to be around 1.8 billion years old).
Husband and I arrived at Phantom just before 3 pm, after 7 hours of hiking and 30 minutes’ worth of rest stops. We found five of our group already there, including Margaret and the Cheetah. They were all sitting on the benches in front of the group cabin and enjoying the perks of getting to Phantom before 4 pm---big glasses of lemonade. After greetings all around, I stepped inside our cabin to a wonderful surprise---it was cool!!! We debated whether it was a real air conditioner or a "swamp cooler" as some called it, but whatever it was, it worked. It was a pleasant 70-something inside the cabin, and around 90 outside. I chose a bed from among the 5 sets of bunks (top bunk, near the door), and put my pack there. It was good to take it off at last.
DH went off to find his bed in the mens’ dorm. Since there were 12 in our group and only 10 beds in the group cabin, 2 of the men had to take places in the hiker’s dorm. One space went to the sole single guy on the trip. Since we were co-hosts for the group, I asked my husband to take the other dorm spot. It seemed to me there would be little difference between sleeping in a bunk bed in the 10-person group cabin (with friends) and sleeping in a bunk bed in the 12-person mens’ dorm (with strangers). Apparently I was wrong. He may forgive me someday.
After finding our beds, we sat with the others and enjoyed a lemonade/iced tea ($2.50 for the first glass, $1.00 refills). Then I filled up two water bottles with ice and water, and set out back up the trail to find the rest of my "flock". I hoped to bring them to Phantom before the canteen closed at 4:00. I walked for 25 minutes before I spotted the last five---almost a mile from Phantom. I handed the ice water all around, and then we all hustled that last mile back just in time for lemonade.
Next we all partook of the real benefit of staying at Phantom Ranch----showers! I actually prefer sleeping at the campground (Bright Angel, of course), but that shower opportunity makes Phantom a very attractive option. My husband led a few people down to the Colorado for a look and a quick dip in the cold water (the current is too strong and dangerous for a real swim, but you can sit in the water near shore). Then a few of us pulled out bottles of wine we had carried down the trail, and settled around a picnic table to read and relax before our 6:30 pm dinner.
Dinner at Phantom is served family-style, in two sittings. The 5:00 dinner is steak, baked potatoes with all the fixings, salad, vegetable and bread. The 6:30 dinner is beef stew or vegetarian chili, salad, and cornbread. Both come with iced tea, coffee/tea, and big slabs of chocolate cake for dessert. Everything is on the table when you are seated, and there is an initial flurry of passing and serving before everyone digs in. They will bring refills on request, and I think we must have refilled our salad bowl 2 or 3 times. They also have beer and wine available for purchase.
So here comes the “international incident”.
A number of us ordered glasses of wine, which were brought about 10 minutes later. We were all happily eating, talking about the day’s adventure, and passing food around. One of the Brits, whom I shall call Tony, did not touch his glass of red wine until they brought dessert. Either he was more focused on refueling after the day’s hike, or wanted to think of it as a nice glass of port, to enjoy after the meal. All of us felt a bit rushed—they started asking us to pass plates to they could clear the tables even before we had started on dessert. At 7:15 they announced they needed to clear the room to clean up and set up to re-open as a canteen at 8:00. Most people left the room, but a few at our table (we were the table farthest from the door, and the last served) lingered to finish the cake and continued chatting. I told Tony I would sit with him while he enjoyed his wine. They started clearing around us, but by 7:30 we were the only ones left, and one of the employees said we had to leave. Tony’s glass was still nearly full. I went and grabbed a paper cup for him to pour the wine into to take outside—like we did at Grand Canyon Lodge. The employee said we couldn’t do that—their license was for “on-site” consumption only. He pointed to the small sign on the door leading outside. It said “Alcohol purchased here must be consumed on the premises”. And he mentioned there was a $500 fine for violations. Then he picked up some dishes and headed back to the kitchen.
Tony quickly poured his wine into the cup, and we headed for the door. Said employee burst out of the kitchen, shouting, “Sir! Do you have wine in that cup?” Tony nodded in the affirmative. The employee pointed to the sign again, and said we could not take the wine out of the room. Tony protested that he had not been given enough time to drink his wine, they rushed us so (very true). And I said that we were only going as far as the stone steps just on the other side of the door—surely that is still part of the “premises”? (And here the lawyer in me is silently considering the meaning of the term “premises”—which arguably would mean the entire building, including the attached stone steps, or perhaps even all of Phantom Ranch. Black’s Law Dictionary defines “premises” as “land and tenements; an estate, including buildings thereon; . . . a distinct and definite locality, and may mean a room, shop, building, or other definite area. . . . Land and its appurtenances.”)
But I didn’t feel like arguing, beyond asserting that the attached steps were indeed part of the “premises”. In response, he said “If you take one step outside that door I will call the ranger to have you both arrested.” Hmmmm. I was pretty sure the ranger would be a whole lot more reasonable than this officious employee, and see no harm in our carrying 5 ounces of wine to the steps, about 2 feet outside the door, so Tony could finish his beverage. After all, it certainly was not illegal to consume wine outside the dining room—we had enjoyed our aperitif, the wine we had carried down rather than purchased at Phantom, at a picnic table a few yards away from the dining room. And once Tony said a word, the ranger would know he was a foreign visitor—what ranger would want to cause international bad feeling by arresting him? Or I could say it was all my fault, and take the rap myself. But that would mean a return to Arizona at some point in the future to appear in court, at considerable expense. Was it worth it? I didn’t have to decide, because at this point a thoroughly disgusted Tony set down the cup and stomped out of the dining room without another word.
I followed him out and went to find my husband and the others at the ranger talk.
Oct 17th, 2008, 11:30 AM
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Wow - too bad about the wine. Does seem rather silly. Before I read further, the lawyer in me was also thinking about definition of "premises". I do agree with you on that point. Hopefully it didn't cause permanent damage to international relations.
Oct 17th, 2008, 01:06 PM
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Once I wrote this, I couldn't stop thinking about "the incident" again. So I looked up their license and Arizona liquor laws.
Phantom Ranch has a "No. 7 beer and wine bar" license. This allows sales "in the original container for consumption on or off the premises or in individual portions for consumption on the premises." ARS 4-101(24).
"Premises" are described in a diagram of the building submitted with each license application. (I couldn't find a copy of that on-line).
"Premises" also includes "a patio that is not contiguous to the remainder of the premises or licensed premises if the patio is separated from the remainder of the premises or licensed premises by a public or private walkway or driveway not to exceed thirty feet. . ." ARS 4-101(26).
If a non-contiguous patio is included, I would think a very contiguous set of stone steps, leading up to the front door, would be too (either that or it is included in the drawing of the building that constitutes the premises).
Violations are charged against the license holder or the employee, not the customer. So his threat of arresting us was empty.
Finally, a customer may take an unopened bottle from the premises, AND unfinished bottles of wine if they are "recorked flush with the top of the wine bottle" or the bottle "is otherwise securely closed." ARS 4-244(31).
We should have just asked him to pour it back in the box and close it securely.
Seems like a tempest in a teapot, but it put Tony in a bad mood for the whole next day---with good reason, I think.
Phantom Ranch has a "No. 7 beer and wine bar" license. This allows sales "in the original container for consumption on or off the premises or in individual portions for consumption on the premises." ARS 4-101(24).
"Premises" are described in a diagram of the building submitted with each license application. (I couldn't find a copy of that on-line).
"Premises" also includes "a patio that is not contiguous to the remainder of the premises or licensed premises if the patio is separated from the remainder of the premises or licensed premises by a public or private walkway or driveway not to exceed thirty feet. . ." ARS 4-101(26).
If a non-contiguous patio is included, I would think a very contiguous set of stone steps, leading up to the front door, would be too (either that or it is included in the drawing of the building that constitutes the premises).
Violations are charged against the license holder or the employee, not the customer. So his threat of arresting us was empty.
Finally, a customer may take an unopened bottle from the premises, AND unfinished bottles of wine if they are "recorked flush with the top of the wine bottle" or the bottle "is otherwise securely closed." ARS 4-244(31).
We should have just asked him to pour it back in the box and close it securely.
Seems like a tempest in a teapot, but it put Tony in a bad mood for the whole next day---with good reason, I think.
Oct 17th, 2008, 01:44 PM
#33
I'd definitely contact the manager w/ the info (or just send him the link him to this thread 
) - it is very possible they don't know how officious and nasty their employee is.
If I was the boss I'd really want to know. And IF that pr&%k was the manager, I'd go higher.
) - it is very possible they don't know how officious and nasty their employee is. If I was the boss I'd really want to know. And IF that pr&%k was the manager, I'd go higher.
Oct 17th, 2008, 10:56 PM
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Love your report, enzian. Hope to make it to the bottom of the canyon some day.
We did a quick one day visit some years ago and it was amazing. Not surprised at the number of people unprepared though. Also saw people letting their kids feed the squirrels despite all the signs about rabies.
We did a quick one day visit some years ago and it was amazing. Not surprised at the number of people unprepared though. Also saw people letting their kids feed the squirrels despite all the signs about rabies.
Oct 18th, 2008, 09:07 AM
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Thanks everyone for the encouragement---it takes me back too, to write this.
I hope I have inspired a few people to try this---if not rim to rim, then a hike down and back from the South Rim. You can do that all year 'round.
Or for a rim to rim hike, you can start in mid-May, when the North Rim opens up. Phantom Ranch is likely fully booked for May 2009, but you can call and try for a cancellation.
Better yet, apply for a camping permit and backpack. For May 2009 permits, you would send your request on January 1. Detailed instructions are on the GC NPS website, but I am happy to answer questions.
I hope I have inspired a few people to try this---if not rim to rim, then a hike down and back from the South Rim. You can do that all year 'round.
Or for a rim to rim hike, you can start in mid-May, when the North Rim opens up. Phantom Ranch is likely fully booked for May 2009, but you can call and try for a cancellation.
Better yet, apply for a camping permit and backpack. For May 2009 permits, you would send your request on January 1. Detailed instructions are on the GC NPS website, but I am happy to answer questions.
Oct 18th, 2008, 09:11 AM
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Days 3 & 4---hiking out of the canyon and returning to the North Rim
Everyone in the group cabin was up early, eager for the day's hike. I dressed and went outside to find my husband sitting at one of the table reading by headlamp, and very grumpy. It was a bad night in the men’s dorm—lots of snoring, and they were all awakened by a Phantom employee pounding on the door at 4:30 am---a wake-up call for the 5:00 breakfast. Someone got up and turned on the overhead light (inconsiderate---why not use a flashlight?) Even though our breakfast wasn’t until 6:30, DH got up and out of there; he’d had enough.
I bought him a cup of coffee to cheer him up. (We learned on our last hike to the canyon bottom that you can go around to the back window of the kitchen, and get coffee or tea .) At 6:30 they opened the doors and we advanced to our assigned table to find the food awaiting us---steaming platters of scrambled eggs, pancakes, and bacon, plus a bowl of canned peach halves, and coffee and tea. Refills were provided upon request, but we only needed seconds on the peaches. Fortunately our nemesis from the previous evening was nowhere to be seen.
Lunches that we ordered in advance ($12) were waiting to be picked up after breakfast. Everyone one went through his or hers and traded or discarded the unwanted items (unopened wrapped items like the Oreo cookies, or pretzels, or summer sausage can be left in a basket for others to take). As it turned out, I only kept the peanuts and apple. I did have other food with me (trail mix), but after that breakfast I wouldn’t need much more for the hike to the top.
We headed out at 7:30, unfortunately just after the mules did. Fortunately, when the reach the Colorado River, the mules turn left to cross on the Black Bridge, and we turned right to cross the Silver Bridge. This bridge has its mesh tread that you can see through down to the rushing water below, and would scare the heck out of a mule (and some people). We made a long stop there for group photos. For many of the Brits, this was their first view of the Colorado. The trail follows above it for 2 miles, so there is plenty of time to enjoy. It is particularly beautiful in the early morning light, with the canyon wall in shadow and the sunlight glinting off the water.
Just before we turned up Pipe Creek to begin the ascent, a rafting group came along, so the last hikers in our group had a chance to see that. I stayed back with the slower hikers, two of the women who love to talk about books. After a half hour, they assured me they wanted to go very slowly to savor the trip, and I need not wait for them nor worry. So I sped up and hiked alone to Indian Gardens, where I caught up with the rest of the group.
I love that part of the Bright Angel Trail---first you are along a creek, and get amazing close-up views of the rock formations. Then you start the switchback ascent up to the Tonto plateau level, and follow a different creek---an oasis at this point, with canyon grape, redbud, and other lush plants. It was actually greener now, in late September, than we had seen it in April. Hiking alone, I could stop where I wished and enjoy the views.
Indian Garden is the half-way point in terms of mileage, but not for the elevation gain. To that point, you have ascended 1400 feet, so you still have 3,000 to gain. There is ample shade, as well as water and restrooms, so it is a good place to stop and cool off before the final part of the hike.
But then you meet the mules---the daytrips which go to Plateau Point. We always seem to time our hike so we meet one or two mule strings just after we leave Indian Gardens, where the trail is deep and dusty. You stand off the trail waiting for the mules to pass, kicking up clouds of dust. Note to self---try to avoid this next time!!!
After a long, sandy, level stretch, the trail starts climbing again. There is a sort of amphitheater here, known for echoes. No one can resist! A few in our group even tried yodeling.
This last 4.5 miles is broken into thirds by the 3-Mile Resthouse and the 1.5 Mile Resthouse. You can stop at either or both for water and a potty break. As the trail ascends, the views open up, the crowds increase, and the altitude starts affecting those who aren't acclimated. Plus there are those steps---but they are much easier to negotiate going uphill than down. When the color of the trail turns form red to light grey you know you are close.
We were feeling great; with short stops at the water faucets to soak shirts and refill water, we kept cool and cheerful. And clouds were starting to gather, dropping the temperature. We could hear thunder off to the north, over the North Rim. We quickened our pace, not wanting to face the possibility of lightning.
At the 1.5 Mile Resthouse I mentioned the ice cream awaiting us at the top---real ice cream, not the soft-serve kind. Again the pace quickened! The four of us who had been hiking together---the lead group at this point---reached the top (and the ice cream place) at 1:00 pm. It was pleasantly uncrowded there, and we sat down with our ice cream cones (an assortment of mint chip, strawberry, vanilla, and chocolate) to savor the view and the good feeling of accomplishment. We watched the lightning striking across the canyon, at the North Rim, but it did not move in our direction.
Around 2 pm I walked over to El Tovar to see how many of our rooms were ready for check-in. There were enough for those of us who had arrived, so we went ahead and moved in. After a quick shower, I went back over to Bright Angel to await other arrivals.
By 5:00 pm, everyone was up but the two women who had sent me on from the bottom, saying they wanted to go slowly. I wasn't worried---they are experienced hikers, and one is never far from help on that trail---but I did start inquiring of people hiking up, whether they had seen the two. A number of people had seen them, and said they seemed happy and strong when last seen. With this information, I was able to monitor their progress and watch for them, and then I walked down to the first tunnel to meet them. They were so happy---not to have the hike finished, but just because they had spent such a wonderful day, moving slowly and savoring every step and every new view. Ten hours to hike up---not because they were struggling, but because they enjoyed it too much to rush it. Gave me a whole new perspective.
We had dinner reservations for 7:30 at El Tovar, and they specially arranged one large table for us, since I had mentioned in my reservations request that we would be celebrating after a rim-to-rim hike. Most of the British women had brought skirts, sarongs, or dresses to wear for dinner, carrying these in their backpacks all the way down to the bottom of the canyon and back up. For a group of hikers with no luggage, we presented quite an elegant picture.
We were booked for the rim to rim shuttle the next day. Since it doesn't leave until 1:30 (check in at 1:00), everyone had the whole morning free to explore the South Rim. Most rose early, took advantage of the free coffee/tea offered on the mezzanine at El Tovar, and headed out along the rim trail to enjoy the sunrise and morning colors. After that, it was breakfast at El Tovar (always a treat) a short walk to Trail Overlook on th ewest rim trail, and a quick trip to the store for sandwiches, etc. for lunch before we met the shuttle.
The rim to rim shuttle is a great service. They use 14-passenger vans, but do not fill them up. With nine people in ours, everyone had plenty of room. The trip is scenic and very relaxing. There was a quick stop at Navaho Bridge, where the highway crosses the Colorado River. Everyone got out and ran across and back, to cross the Colorado two more times.
On the way back into the park at the North Rim, we marveled at how much the aspen colors had changed in the 3 days we had been away. It was approaching dusk and there were many, many deer in the meadows. We arrived at Grand Canyon Lodge around 6 pm, and checked back into cabins---everyone knew the drill by this time. We had a quick meeting regarding the next stage of our trip---4 days at Zion---and another enjoyable dinner in the lodge dining room. Then off to bed.
We were awakened just at dawn by someone outside shouting "Wow! Oh, wow!" Apparently a late arrival the previous evening, who just had his first daylight view of the canyon. DH and I started giggling---that was pretty much how we felt too. Wow! What a hike. What a place. We rose from bed and dressed to go outside to enjoy the morning light.
We bought breakfast in the deli and carried it out to the deck, where we could look down into the canyon and try to trace the path of our hike. Most of the north side was still in deep shadow, but with binoculars we could see most of the Bright Angel Trail, as well as El Tovar and the other buildings on the South Rim. They looked so far away . . . but we had walked there in 12 hours.
This was farewell to the Grand Canyon, but not to the Brits. We would meet them later that day at Zion, for the second half of our adventure together.
On our way back through the sun room, I rubbed Brighty’s polished brass nose one more time. We’ll be back.
Everyone in the group cabin was up early, eager for the day's hike. I dressed and went outside to find my husband sitting at one of the table reading by headlamp, and very grumpy. It was a bad night in the men’s dorm—lots of snoring, and they were all awakened by a Phantom employee pounding on the door at 4:30 am---a wake-up call for the 5:00 breakfast. Someone got up and turned on the overhead light (inconsiderate---why not use a flashlight?) Even though our breakfast wasn’t until 6:30, DH got up and out of there; he’d had enough.
I bought him a cup of coffee to cheer him up. (We learned on our last hike to the canyon bottom that you can go around to the back window of the kitchen, and get coffee or tea .) At 6:30 they opened the doors and we advanced to our assigned table to find the food awaiting us---steaming platters of scrambled eggs, pancakes, and bacon, plus a bowl of canned peach halves, and coffee and tea. Refills were provided upon request, but we only needed seconds on the peaches. Fortunately our nemesis from the previous evening was nowhere to be seen.
Lunches that we ordered in advance ($12) were waiting to be picked up after breakfast. Everyone one went through his or hers and traded or discarded the unwanted items (unopened wrapped items like the Oreo cookies, or pretzels, or summer sausage can be left in a basket for others to take). As it turned out, I only kept the peanuts and apple. I did have other food with me (trail mix), but after that breakfast I wouldn’t need much more for the hike to the top.
We headed out at 7:30, unfortunately just after the mules did. Fortunately, when the reach the Colorado River, the mules turn left to cross on the Black Bridge, and we turned right to cross the Silver Bridge. This bridge has its mesh tread that you can see through down to the rushing water below, and would scare the heck out of a mule (and some people). We made a long stop there for group photos. For many of the Brits, this was their first view of the Colorado. The trail follows above it for 2 miles, so there is plenty of time to enjoy. It is particularly beautiful in the early morning light, with the canyon wall in shadow and the sunlight glinting off the water.
Just before we turned up Pipe Creek to begin the ascent, a rafting group came along, so the last hikers in our group had a chance to see that. I stayed back with the slower hikers, two of the women who love to talk about books. After a half hour, they assured me they wanted to go very slowly to savor the trip, and I need not wait for them nor worry. So I sped up and hiked alone to Indian Gardens, where I caught up with the rest of the group.
I love that part of the Bright Angel Trail---first you are along a creek, and get amazing close-up views of the rock formations. Then you start the switchback ascent up to the Tonto plateau level, and follow a different creek---an oasis at this point, with canyon grape, redbud, and other lush plants. It was actually greener now, in late September, than we had seen it in April. Hiking alone, I could stop where I wished and enjoy the views.
Indian Garden is the half-way point in terms of mileage, but not for the elevation gain. To that point, you have ascended 1400 feet, so you still have 3,000 to gain. There is ample shade, as well as water and restrooms, so it is a good place to stop and cool off before the final part of the hike.
But then you meet the mules---the daytrips which go to Plateau Point. We always seem to time our hike so we meet one or two mule strings just after we leave Indian Gardens, where the trail is deep and dusty. You stand off the trail waiting for the mules to pass, kicking up clouds of dust. Note to self---try to avoid this next time!!!
After a long, sandy, level stretch, the trail starts climbing again. There is a sort of amphitheater here, known for echoes. No one can resist! A few in our group even tried yodeling.
This last 4.5 miles is broken into thirds by the 3-Mile Resthouse and the 1.5 Mile Resthouse. You can stop at either or both for water and a potty break. As the trail ascends, the views open up, the crowds increase, and the altitude starts affecting those who aren't acclimated. Plus there are those steps---but they are much easier to negotiate going uphill than down. When the color of the trail turns form red to light grey you know you are close.
We were feeling great; with short stops at the water faucets to soak shirts and refill water, we kept cool and cheerful. And clouds were starting to gather, dropping the temperature. We could hear thunder off to the north, over the North Rim. We quickened our pace, not wanting to face the possibility of lightning.
At the 1.5 Mile Resthouse I mentioned the ice cream awaiting us at the top---real ice cream, not the soft-serve kind. Again the pace quickened! The four of us who had been hiking together---the lead group at this point---reached the top (and the ice cream place) at 1:00 pm. It was pleasantly uncrowded there, and we sat down with our ice cream cones (an assortment of mint chip, strawberry, vanilla, and chocolate) to savor the view and the good feeling of accomplishment. We watched the lightning striking across the canyon, at the North Rim, but it did not move in our direction.
Around 2 pm I walked over to El Tovar to see how many of our rooms were ready for check-in. There were enough for those of us who had arrived, so we went ahead and moved in. After a quick shower, I went back over to Bright Angel to await other arrivals.
By 5:00 pm, everyone was up but the two women who had sent me on from the bottom, saying they wanted to go slowly. I wasn't worried---they are experienced hikers, and one is never far from help on that trail---but I did start inquiring of people hiking up, whether they had seen the two. A number of people had seen them, and said they seemed happy and strong when last seen. With this information, I was able to monitor their progress and watch for them, and then I walked down to the first tunnel to meet them. They were so happy---not to have the hike finished, but just because they had spent such a wonderful day, moving slowly and savoring every step and every new view. Ten hours to hike up---not because they were struggling, but because they enjoyed it too much to rush it. Gave me a whole new perspective.
We had dinner reservations for 7:30 at El Tovar, and they specially arranged one large table for us, since I had mentioned in my reservations request that we would be celebrating after a rim-to-rim hike. Most of the British women had brought skirts, sarongs, or dresses to wear for dinner, carrying these in their backpacks all the way down to the bottom of the canyon and back up. For a group of hikers with no luggage, we presented quite an elegant picture.
We were booked for the rim to rim shuttle the next day. Since it doesn't leave until 1:30 (check in at 1:00), everyone had the whole morning free to explore the South Rim. Most rose early, took advantage of the free coffee/tea offered on the mezzanine at El Tovar, and headed out along the rim trail to enjoy the sunrise and morning colors. After that, it was breakfast at El Tovar (always a treat) a short walk to Trail Overlook on th ewest rim trail, and a quick trip to the store for sandwiches, etc. for lunch before we met the shuttle.
The rim to rim shuttle is a great service. They use 14-passenger vans, but do not fill them up. With nine people in ours, everyone had plenty of room. The trip is scenic and very relaxing. There was a quick stop at Navaho Bridge, where the highway crosses the Colorado River. Everyone got out and ran across and back, to cross the Colorado two more times.
On the way back into the park at the North Rim, we marveled at how much the aspen colors had changed in the 3 days we had been away. It was approaching dusk and there were many, many deer in the meadows. We arrived at Grand Canyon Lodge around 6 pm, and checked back into cabins---everyone knew the drill by this time. We had a quick meeting regarding the next stage of our trip---4 days at Zion---and another enjoyable dinner in the lodge dining room. Then off to bed.
We were awakened just at dawn by someone outside shouting "Wow! Oh, wow!" Apparently a late arrival the previous evening, who just had his first daylight view of the canyon. DH and I started giggling---that was pretty much how we felt too. Wow! What a hike. What a place. We rose from bed and dressed to go outside to enjoy the morning light.
We bought breakfast in the deli and carried it out to the deck, where we could look down into the canyon and try to trace the path of our hike. Most of the north side was still in deep shadow, but with binoculars we could see most of the Bright Angel Trail, as well as El Tovar and the other buildings on the South Rim. They looked so far away . . . but we had walked there in 12 hours.
This was farewell to the Grand Canyon, but not to the Brits. We would meet them later that day at Zion, for the second half of our adventure together.
On our way back through the sun room, I rubbed Brighty’s polished brass nose one more time. We’ll be back.
Oct 18th, 2008, 11:26 AM
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Super report enzian. Glad to hear you all managed the hike up and out of the canyon on Bright Angel better than I did in June '06. Glad you folded Zion in to your trip too. I do recommend to anyone attempting Angel's Landing to try to overcome any reservations they have about hiking to the top. It certainly looks formidable from below, but if you take your time and go slowly, it's easier than it looks, and you'll be rewarded with one of the more remarkable views anywhere.
Oct 18th, 2008, 12:19 PM
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Hi MRand---when we hiked up the Angel's Landing trail the first time, before going to the Grand Canyon, my husband and our friend Sharon went on up while I waited at Scout Lookout. But they turned back before the last pitch---it was too much even for them.
I know all too well that I cannot handle exposure like that, where it is straight down on both sides (drop offs on one side I can handle). I get vertigo and start shaking. I can do a lot of difficult things, including the cables on Half Dome, but not that climb up Angel's Landing.
When we returned to Zion three of us hiked up to Observation Point, from which one can look down onto Angel's Landing. It just confirmed my suspicions---no way could I manage that last part.
The Brits, on the other hand, are all fearless and loved going up to the top at Angel's Landing.
I know all too well that I cannot handle exposure like that, where it is straight down on both sides (drop offs on one side I can handle). I get vertigo and start shaking. I can do a lot of difficult things, including the cables on Half Dome, but not that climb up Angel's Landing.
When we returned to Zion three of us hiked up to Observation Point, from which one can look down onto Angel's Landing. It just confirmed my suspicions---no way could I manage that last part.
The Brits, on the other hand, are all fearless and loved going up to the top at Angel's Landing.
