Trip Report - 2 weeks in UT and AZ to CA with a MeetUp in the middle
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Trip Report - 2 weeks in UT and AZ to CA with a MeetUp in the middle
Day 1 – Tues 26th Sep – Another year means another getaway to the South West for a bit of touring. OK, it’s becoming a bit of a recurring thing, but I still cannot find any better way to chill out for a couple of weeks than racing around 1000’s of miles with stupid waking hours and long and tiring hikes in a desert somewhere. Wouldn’t have it any other way.
I am slowing down a bit though and although being solo certainly helps, the days were still pretty much jam packed.
Simple loop using gateways at LAS and leaving at LAX. Partly for costs, but also partly because I at least wanted to get a slice of Anza Borrego after many times of missing out. No issues with one way rentals so different start and end points work well.
I had an email from BA a week or so prior to the flight say ITV would be filming for a short period on my flight and make yourself known if you didn’t want your mug shot open to all in the periphery filming. This obviously raised a few eyebrows as to whom and what they would be doing on board? Well, any Brits reading will know of the 70’s and 80’s ‘stars’ who were popping up on our screens in the days when there was still only 4 channels on the TV. No modern day beauties, or pop stars for us today, but we were blessed to be served up with the likes of Canon and Ball, Sue Pollard and the Bernie Cliftons of this world. It was even more of a blessing that they all were doing their thing well away from me since they were in the front portion behind the curtains.
Uneventful flight and some strange questions from immigration soon passed by quickly for me to have already left Walmart armed with some liquid supplies for the next few days, en-route to Downtown.
Don’t bother much with The Strip, nor Vegas as a whole, just a quick kip is all I need. Trust me, it is just a quick one. So, Four Queens is my usual stopover, Cheap, no resort fee, easy walk from the parking garage to the front desk and never anyone in the queue for checking in. Think it was about 5.30pm when I finally plonked into the room. Just with my holdall and a few drinks.
Hmmmmnn, nose started running a bit, what’s this? I thought my cold from a few days ago was history?
Well, I venture out for a bit, up and down Fremont, just taking in a bit of the buzz and trying to tire myself, even though it had been a long day already and I never can sleep on planes. Caught a quick bite to eat, then headed back to the boom boom resonating from the windows of my room overlooking Fremont St. I’m okay with that, when I do sleep, it’s literally like a light switch. Anyone breaking into my room could have a field day if I was asleep which is why I always prop up the room door handles with a chair, ironing board, or a combination of both…..wherever I am.
I was out by 9pm. Fast out.
I was up bright as a fiddle at 11pm. Yup, 2hrs of body being switched off and I’m ready to roll. Quick shower, pack my things and I’m driving out of Vegas at 00.30 headed for Zion.
This trip would be a little on the short side and a bit of memory lane tracing as it’s probably a couple of years before I head back this way. I always say that and might just be back next year, but I do think me and my SouthWest affair need a break. So a trip of mainly highlights and fond places I just want to see again for old time’s sake. A tweak on some hikes and a couple of places new. Also the little task of joining up with the Utah Meet Up at Lake Powell/Page in a matter of a day or so.
Day 2 – Wed 27th Sep – Runny nose and a slight headache accompanied me on my dark drive out of town. Quick and easy drive out pulling up at the parking lot of the VC at 4am. Set the alarm on my phone for an hour and promptly had a power nap. 5am, still an hour before the first shuttle runs so I start sorting out some of my luggage and literally empty everything out in a somewhat organised way, all over the folded down back seats to create an easy access wardrobe. Got changed into more suitable clothing and found my boots. All ready to go, not least with a roll of tissues to keep the nose in check.
Caught the first shuttle and rode with a handful of fellow hikers down the dark drive through the canyon. Yep it was dark, and had just put some new batteries in my headlamp.
Angels Landing would be my only real feat for today. I had other stuff pencilled in but could feel my head getting heavier. I also wanted to explore a bit further up the West Rim Trail. I’ve done AL a few times. The problem with me is I like challenging myself. As someone who was just a scenic overlook picture taker for many years to starting hiking for the first time proper only about 6yrs ago, I’ve steadily pushed myself to go further or quicker or more elevated as the following years progressed. So first time got to AL in a leisurely manner, subsequent times of shy under an hour and then 52mins last time out from Grotto t/h.
Well, it wasn’t going to happen today. First time in the dark, headlamp in use all the way to Walters Wiggles before no longer being required. Made it to the top 59 mins. Well, I am getting older and carrying the burden of a cold, so I’ll take it. I was greeted with the whole thing to myself, so I’ll take the reward nicely.
Day was a bit gloomy thou….and not just the weather. I thought I might be able to shake off the cold but it was not working. It didn’t stop me from venturing further up the WR trail to get the iconic shots of Walters Wiggles. It is a little hard to get to and not without going to the end of the wrong slip rock expanses each time. The obvious looking places do not get your vision sufficiently round enough so you have to go further up the trail. Even where I got mine, I still had to stand precariously on the edge facing a large drop off below.
Got back to the Grotto and just wanted to get to my room. It was about 12.30 by now and even the shuttle ride back to the VC was in a near empty bus. Just what is all this fuss about Zion being overcrowded!! Thankfully, I’ve never experienced it heaving, always had pleasant experiences.
Anyway, I soon found out where all the people were. They were queuing all the way round the VC and onwards, waiting to catch the shuttle. At 1pm!!! Serves them right!
Popped into the Bumbleberry putting on my saddest face asking the receptionist if she could pull a few strings to let me into my room early. Not a chance, 2pm it would be. So went out to the Brew Pub and waited it out, filling my tummy at the same time.
2pm came quick and was soon in my room and out. 12hrs I was in that bed. And, yes, was out of it by 2am.......
Day 3 – Thurs 28th Sep - Meet Up Day 1 - After being bed-ridden for a good 12hrs by an instant flue that almost went as quick as it came, I was ready to leave Springdale after a hearty breakfast. I would be heading to Page at the end of the day to join the start of this year’s Lake Powell Meet-Up. However, still not being 100% fit, my anticipated hike or hikes in east Zion for today, namely Checkerboard Mesa / and Arch was not going to happen. I do like the much quieter east side and have done several of the hikes there in the past, so was a little bit disappointed.
I did, naturally, fit in Canyon Overlook which always is a good way to start the day. And the day indeed, was glorious.
Feeling ever better, I still had a pretty full day lined up. Drove via Kanab on the 89 to the Paria Ghost Town / Old Movie set area not obviously for the non-existent buildings but for it’s widely appreciated surrounding beauty. Not least for when I tried to come down this way 2yrs ago, it had rained the day before and the road had started lovely and smooth but I was soon aquaplaning on the sticky clay so had to U-turn. This time the road was lovely for the 3 or 4 mile drive. Indeed, the area was very pretty with splendid 360 deg views. Didn’t need much time to explore thou.
Visiting here ironically meant I actually had to drive through Page to get to Marble Canyon. Also meant driving past Horseshoe Bend which literally had 100+ people just walking up the initial hill….they looked like ants crawling over the sand. There had been a lot of talk in the Meet-Up preamble about possible doing a group hike or maybe individuals doing at some point or other. For me, most of the 4 full days were already allotted and my times after were definitely allotted to other stuff, so today opened itself up to me. I drove straight past the trailhead about a mile further to catch the balanced rocks which are right beside the road. I then headed back to the empty pull off for the Cathedral Wash trailhead.
I had read a bit about the hike and watched a few YouTube videos and was well aware that although the hike wasn’t very long (think just over 1.5miles e/w), it was the route finding that would be, well let’s just say…fun. A relatively mundane first half mile or so just was walking but then soon you come to a series of pour-offs which vary in degrees of steepness. This sort of stuff is just right up my street, and being solo means no helping hands or foot-ups, it’s all on your own or nothing. The depths of some off these pour-offs admittedly were much steeper than I expected and there were quite a few. It was a case of skirting round the edges and finding suitable places to shimmy down traversing as you do so. More often than not, you backtrack a bit and find another way.
This carried on for pretty much most of the middle section until you reach the reward of the sound of rushing water and indeed the beautiful Colorado River. Yes the reward was worth it. I did hang around for about 15-20mins, but typical of me, feel I have to move on. I really does need a good picnic and 2-4hrs just taking in the views and ……relaxing by the water.
As always with these sort of hikes, you never come back the same way as you came although it’s the same route. It was quicker, about 30mins compared to the 40mins coming in, but I was taking less pictures. I had seen no other person throughout, but just as I neared the trailhead, met a couple just starting out. Thoroughly recommend this hike to anyone looking for fun, reward and a bit of solace.
Naturally stopped at the Navajo bridges for a while looking out for Condors that are never there whenever I’m there. Then I made my way to Page. Again, Horseshoe Bend was no quieter and not worthy of stopping. I do try to stop at places I’ve been regularly in the past too, even if all my pics are exactly the same, but not this time.
I would be staying in a VRBO house sharing with DannyS, Mrs DannyS and BethE for the next few days. I got to the house by 4pm, but little did I know that having for some reason changed my clocks 4 times during the day, mainly due to my satnav predicting arrival times in different time zones, that I had actually arrived at 3pm. No problem. I unloaded the car, got the beer out and had a drink and waited. I no longer carry a mobile phone with a sim, so sent a message via email and FB to let them know I had arrived.
Got cleaned up and showered and by 5pm they both had arrived. Think BethE even showed up before them. Soon our housemates in the house had all arrived. We then headed off the HickHouse literally down the road armed with treats and drinks. Opening the door to nearly a full house, with most of the attendees already there, was warm and inviting. A quick exchange of handshakes and hugs before the chats started and the smell of the bar-b-que aromed down below. No newbies so far, but some notable missing faces. It would have been nice to see a few more of the regulars, but even with year long planning, and with so many attending, it’s only natural that scheduling doesn’t always work.
Just to note that the HickHouse was amazing and had great entertainment space both indoors and out worthy of being a HenHouse.
PG was doing his stuff on the grills as we were all gobbling it up with an assortment of beers, limoncellos and whiskys to wash it down. Then a bit of serious stuff as we had a pretty full attending trip tomorrow, so meant organising drivers with 4x4’s and planning our course of action for tomorrow.
Day 4 – Fri 29th Sep – Meet Up Day 2 – Being a natural early riser anyway, and supposedly jet lag still on my side, I was up early and kicking my heels. I ventured out to catch sunrise at the Dam and Gorge scenic overlook, then drove down past the Hanging Gdn trailhead to the end of the dirt track and a short stroll to catch sunrise proper at the edge of the water. Did this a few times before and a serene and perfect place just to sit and watch and do nothing except see the world waking up and changing colour in front of you.
Think it was about 8am for departure from the HickHouse as we loaded up coolers and snacks and somehow decided (using the long-version) of how we would sit or squeeze in and whether additional vehicles would be needed. Thankfully, the 4 vehicles left fully loaded with a near full house of 20 of us. I was traveling with PG, Mrs PG, LVZiggy and Mr Zig. White Pocket the destination led by PG. Straightforward drive up the 89 and then down House Rock Valley Rd.
Now, I’d say that virtually all of the group have ventured down here in the past to various degrees whether singularly or in a group, but can guarantee all have experienced different road conditions. Last time I was down here was 2013 with my mum in a little Nissan Note to the Wire Pass trailhead. The road today was accepted all round as being pretty good! We collected Kbecjeans who had travelled direct to there having missed the night before.
In the planning stages of the Meet Up, White Pocket outing was an early option and a definite ‘to do’ for most. Mainly because most, well certainly for the likes of me, would never normally venture out into these sort of areas without having the correct vehicle, ‘potential get out of trouble’ contingencies and some sort of knowledgeable guide to know where to look or route your trip. We had that today and also the number to back us up to assist if anyone got stuck. A fair bit of sandy driving would entail. Admittedly, a little part of me wanted to get stuck so we’d have to overcome the challenge to get out, but without that it was still fun. Even if we ended up taking the longer, winding and steeper route there. A fun drive for the drivers of each, but a very bumpy ride for those buckarooing in the back. The general consensus at the end was that it all added to the fun and sure made it more memorable. BethE’s first sand drive was executed with ease in her 4Runner, Tommy probably had the best vehicle for the job in his Jeep and DannyS was already well suited for this type of terrain anyway so took it in his stride.
Eventually ended up at the trailhead and met with half dozen or so vehicles there already, including a Hummer tour, sorted out our gear then had a group agreed 2½hr exploration time. Everyone then parted ways and began to explore, but be dazzled by the scenery at the same time. Very whimsical formation, fabulous colours and twisted and contorted patterns. It was relatively a small area, but there was so much to see. Even viewing a formation seemed to make it changed completely when viewed from another angle. So many wave like patterns and ‘brain rock’ and easy climbing to get into the nooks and crannies made it very accessible. Not least was a great vista behind.
Everyone was pretty much on their own, bumping into to others as they went. Some I didn’t even see again until we were back at the cars, others I bumped into numerous times all over the place.
Little did we know that shortly after we left would there be some vandalism whether intended or not. Some blue spray paint or explosive discharge residue had tarnished the rocks in a very obvious place. Hopefully, most will wash off naturally.
We took the flatter and shorter route back and split with DannyS as he had to rendezvous Kbecjeans back with her car as the rest of us took the shorter route on dirt back via the 89A.
Had another great night at the HickHouse, with PG not the least bit fussed after his guiding today, back on the grills. I still don’t quite know how they manage to do it. RedRox and his dear other half did a lot of the grocery shopping this MeetUp and having nightly endless buffet food ending up at $8-$10 is mind boggling. The prep-work is often overlooked, so a big shout out to those guys and others who sorted out the foody stuff!
DanP was our newbie tonight and in time for our group photo. Good to hear he’d be boating with us tomorrow.
Did I say boating?????
It was a Lake Powell Meet Up after all so time for (thankfully) most of us on the water tomorrow!. A lot of the guys having been in and around Page over the years would not have had time or reason to factor days on Lake Powell itself. I know for sure, I would never have allocated any of my time for such thing. Page, after seeing the sights usually on a first visit is normally an overnight stopover afterwards. Thankfully, lake exploration would be 50% of most of our time allocation, but to varying degrees. However tomorrow would be another nearly full group day. Those that wouldn’t be participating, would have other things lined up such as golf or other typical Page exploration.
So step up RedRox and JFR. Literally on the steps of the staircase. RedRox giving us his customary initial Meet Up speech and planning cues for the coming days. Then JFR with his expert knowledge and much pre-planning (which of course in typical JFR prose would say it was no big deal) explained to us drylanders what would entail tomorrow for sure, and then for some, on Sunday too.
We had a pontoon boat and speedboat lined up for beaching somewhere to include some exploration in the speedboat. Along with kayaks, paddleboard and a merry bunch of folks made for a perfect day tomorrow. Anticipation was high for tomorrow. Weather forecast would be perfect.
Day 5 – Sat 30th Sep – Meet Up Day 3 – Almost opposite the Wahweap Marina turn leads you to some hoodoos. I ventured up there for next morning and am not sure if I really got to where I wanted to go. Apparently there should be some mushroom type formations but without longer exploration time, I don’t think I found them. I was happy with what I got. The route I think I needed to go was boarded with ‘No authorised entry’.
We would be hiring from Antelope Marina and I got there for 7.30ish. Walking down the walkway, caught up with Anna. Anna is this year’s Meet Up most photo orientated member and what a fantastic eye she has too. During this Meet Up, we have almost relied upon her giving us our iconic shots of some of the wonderful places we visited, but also following her on her FB page with her individual tours she did of slot canyons and around. We soon found JFR then Kbecjeans as the others slowly filtered down with the supplies. This boating stuff does still rely on a lot of prepping and paperwork before you finally get going and after sussing out which pontoon boat was ours 009, not quite 007, but we were ok with that, we finally got the details sorted for the speedboat. A few accessories like the stand-up paddle board and a couple of single seater kayaks would add to the fun. We did have a tube that never did get used.
I think everyone to a man was impressed with the size and facilities of the pontoon and before long we were on our way. We split up into both boats and scouted for a beach. I later swapped from the pontoon to the speedboat and along with JFR, Anna and Mr Zig we were treated to some eccentric speedboat driving by SWT with a firm concentrated look on her face. Full speed ahead or dead stop with nothing in between sure made for some near whiplash moves. It was so funny I wouldn’t have wanted, nor expected anything else from her! Soon we found the ideal spot. For a lake newbie, I was easily impressed. Just how beautiful Lake Powell and the surround shores are, but more so just how big it really is. Looking at a map and seeing little channels and waterways turn into wide expanses when actually on the water.
Did I say that multi-talented PG was even Captain on the Pontoon boat? Chef, guide and Captain is a bit greedy I think
JFR, after finding our beaching spot dumped (sorry, stranded us to fend for our lives) me, Anna and Mr SWT sit and mark our territory. After 2 mins, we were already scrawling in the sand…..HELP US! NO BEER!
Before long, the gang arrived. We actually had a great spot. DannyS and Mrs brought along a great shaded canopy and within a few short minutes, we were anchored, canopied and fully foody set up. Fold up chairs galore and the whole setup looked somewhat organised for a bunch of otherwise, unruly cats. It’s hard to believe just how much stuff we needed to unload from the boat.
The rest of the day was a great day. We had salads mixed with chicken and others to make nice fillers for sandwiches and along with other leftovers and flowing drinks were never left hungry.
Now time for fun. JFR was already floated up and drifting in the water in his lift jacket. SRW and Kbecjeans had specifically wanted to hone their skills on the stand up paddleboard and they had a pretty good go. SRW was somewhat surprised at just how good she was. Mr SWT had a go, not bad, quite a nice shape arc. Mrs DannyS was already kayaking and others were happy to eat and relax. Over time, the paddle boarding, which seemed to be the most entertaining form of activity was steadily getting harder and clumsier. Not for LVZiggy who seemed to take it in her stride, although I’m not 100% looked comfortable. So guess what. By now, people led by JFR were already using the slide like little kids with exit star shapes and scouting for point marks. I was then on the slide which had it’s very own water button the speed up affairs and although got probably 1 point for style and 1 for grace and execution, got 10 for just having to give the fudger a go. We all scored similar points in the end
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Paddle boarding……….i think I have quite good balance, the others made it look easy, so why not. Did I struggle or what! What the hell is this thing! Wibbly wobbly all over the place making me look so clumsy. So clumsy that when I fell off pretty soon after climbing on I lost my sunglasses and cap, I wasn’t having any of it. Get back on somewhat unorthodoxly and promptly do the same again. This time cap goes floating off and not being the strongest swimmer and just not getting the balance right, get a lot of moral support from LVZiggy who promptly comes to my rescue….and rescues my cap. She still manages to hold somewhat of a balance but still looks uneasy. With PG and Mrs PG also trying and succeeding and struggling to varying degrees, we only find out later when trying to re-load that the paddle board was full of water. That’s why I was so crap……or so I like to believe.
The beach was great, the scenery was better, the experience was unmatched. Thanks for this opportunity I would never have done otherwise!
Others took an off shoot exploring on the speedboat some canyons. The rest remained and chatted and chilled with beers and food and just good company all round. Got a good chance to mix with DanP who blended in just great with the group. Managed to have a good chat with him on the inbound trip to the marina along with some beer bottle sliding across the counter shenanigans with Mrs DannyS who must have encouraged me since I am somewhat restrained normally.
Back at the marina was somewhat protracted, but what to I know about signing off. The refuelling saga seemed like nothing was happening. But before long we offloaded and somehow found our vehicles and headed back.
Back at the house, we had a group photo of sorts and chatted about our successes and failings and found out what others who didn’t boat, got up to. Food and drinks flowing was so easy to slip through minutes and hours.
I’m sure……which might be in question……that today is the day I tasted my best fish ever!!! Earlier when arriving home, I found BethE casually cooking on the bar-b-que and just about ready as I arrived. What have you cooked young lady? The answer was probably the…..tastiest….fish…..meal….i…have…ever….tasted . Ok, you get the idea, but what she had seasoned and served and offered to taste was scrumpulicious!!!!!. Managed to have a long chat with Beth and she is genuinely one of the nicest people I have ever met. Well-travelled and so accepting. I am honoured to call her a friend of mine. Not a bad cook either.
Day 6 – Sun 1st Oct – Meet Up Day 4 – Today was sort yourself out your own way day. Boaters had their second day on the lake with some beautiful and fascinating experiences. I can only say that snce I’ve seen their pics and heard their selfish stories as to why they could not persuade me enough to attend. But hi five as it appears to be a great fulfilling day.
For the rest of us, we were protracted. Antelope canyon, Marble Canyon, Lees Ferry, golfing and what not. Forget about hem, this is my trip report…………
In the pre-planning process, ‘some’ of us expressed a wish to venture out to Rainbow Bridge whether in the speedboat on the second day or otherwise. Slowly it became clear that the second day speedboat would become an exploration of side canyons and others would decide to allocate days as they wanted.
This, I think was the most protracted day were most spread out to do the things they really wanted. Golf, Antelope, Glen Canyon Dam, Lees Ferry covered most as well as the speedboaters.
For me, I was on my own with a tour to Rainbow Bridge. I would never normally have bothered, even with how much I wanted to see this natural wonder to have ever done it since it involved water and Lake Powell, as mention earlier. With no one else, now expressing the wish, the Rainbow Bridge tour with tourist tour people and not my norm, was the order of the day. Trust me, I do not like touristy things……………………….with hoards of people……………………..
It actually wasn’t so bad.
I got open deck at the back of the boat and had a pleasant ride in. Little did I know until afterwards that a bunch of happygolucky merchants in a speedboats were passing me and waving to me expecting me to see them.,……….mane JFR and the unruly gang in their spendacular canyon outing, of which I’m sure they will convey, just like they conveyed to me that that I might just have made the wrong decision to explore the beautiful and unique Rainbow Bridge instead of their fantastic and awesome experience of canyons of Lake Powell of which I had the misfortune of later seeing pictures. Bloody fudging damn in British! Dang in American!
Who cares!. I actually really enjoyed my day. Rainbow Bridge was awesome! Way bigger, way impressive than I expected. The tour boat was the only boat of the day and was quick, It had to slow down for each house boat it passed to avoid disrupting them with its wake but that was ok. I had got off the boat 2nd so with quick walking got to the Bridge on my own. I then got to the trail to the back side and actually just sat and looked at the arch before taking photos. It’s always easy to just take pictures but difficult to remember actually seeing with your own eyes. So I just sat and looked. The Captain was better on the return actually guiding us and pointing out features like the broken heart and steps on the way back.
Well, back at the marina and on my own. Had originally planned on hiring a mountain bike to do the rim trail with some guidance from the Zigs, but ended up doing Horseshoe Bend. You know the one with the ants on?
Evenings to me are sometimes a blur. Enough said. I do recall we had a, let’s say energetic topic of discussion about the ‘English’ language. Yes, the British English language and how I had to put some unruly Americans straight about letters and correct grammer/pronunciation. Let’s just say, with the numbers against me, I held my ground with the help of SWT. And we even mentioned the Queen (Our Queen) for confirmation somewhere that I can’t remember, but the Queen trumps all (NOT YOUR TRUMP), doesn’t she? That night was good.
Sadly, tonight would be a night of goodbyes. Not being local, or subject to routine mini-meetups, I do take it quite hard. Kbecjeans has always looked after me and always has nothing but kind words.
Most evenings we would have a catch up chat at home with DannyS and Mrs, with BethE. By now BethE had ventured off.
Another big group led by PD for tomorrow……….
Day 7 – 2nd Oct – Meet Up Day 5 – Get together time at HickHouse was a blur. Thankfully OhioHick and Mrs would be joining us again today. Such an underrated guy who does so much back room stuff that I promise doesn’t go unnoticed. I think I had some pretty good chats with this cat herder for the first time and realised every single one of us is just so on the same level it’s unreal. We all love the southwest, regardless of where we come from………….and where we come from. He’s a top guy and am glad to call him a friend.
Cars, ok, I’ll add mine so we are not squeezed up! Only me and JFR in my car so endless chatting as only me and JFR are renowned for. Favourite food, US/UK traffic signs, and much more are on the agenda with some conclusion and agreement and little disagreeing involved since we are buddies from opposite end of the pond with mutual thinking. Hey, this guy helped me on trips gone by way back……………..before I even met him. TripAdvisor is great for tour planning but even better for friendship making. I’ve passed through his hometown with my mum when I needed help and this Lake and boating sort of guy still managed to guide me along and save face with my mum. That sort of thing is priceless. And as a guy and forget all this planning stuff, I class him as a mate. He has fantastic lingual in skills in British accent swearing. He can swear like a trooper. I have taught you well, my son.
Sorry, we were going somewhere today?
In a caravan of cars, we followed PG to lead us on perhaps the most splendid hike of the Meet Up and probably the most spectacular place I’ve been to. Now, I’ve seen some pretty good stuff in my time, but bang for buck, this tops all, even better than White Pocket and with fabulous company.
Back down HRV Road, this time to West Clark Bench. Ok, never heard of it before, but this place became apparent during planning and was another must-do that a group of us would like to visit.
A $6 per person admittance was little change to be able to explore this region. Literally led by PG, we all followed. A group of me, PG, JFR, SJG and Mr, SWT and Mr and OhioHick and Mrs. We all followed suit down the wash and soon entered this Mars like landscape that literally blew us all away. These seem like light words, but I’m sure all of us would say we have never experienced anything like this.
Lace work, folded rocks, fantastic colours, even better vistas, brain rocks and such splendid exploration gets a hearty approval from me.
If I was pushed, this day was probably my best day out west that I have ever experienced. This would be a total a proper British thumbs up to PG.
If you look at following pics, tell me if you have ever seen better than that!!!!
JFR was a proper smoothy talker on the way back. The night was good. I said my byes to RedRox and Mrs and M&M, thanks to PG and Debs, SWT’s were awesome as usual and Tommy and Beth, obviously a dear friend SRW of whom we always have a mutual respect . The OH’s done a job well done and DanyS and Mrs…….well….story to be continued.
Looking forward to when i migtht next be able to meet up with this crazy bunch!
Thanks for some good times.
Bunch of pics unedited from phone and camera.......
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Day 8 – Tues - 3rd Oct – We had all said our byes the night before, with some guys still hanging around today, at least for the morning. I had also said my byes to my housemates DannyS and Mrs although we would still be tagging along for the next couple of nights as our following schedule was such an ironic coincidence.
For now, I was off. It was about 4am or some silly time like that. I would be overnighting tonight at Cameron, only 88 miles from where I set off, only that would be silly. Why take the 88 mile route when you could take the scenic 502 mile route. Yes the 502 mile route it was.
Remember I said it would be partially a trip down memory lane, well hence the routing today. Unlike my normal planning which is quite regimented, this was rather thrown together over the past few days. I wanted a quick peek back at Monument Valley which is where I headed first. Got there for sunrise and although I didn’t really need any more pics, it’s just what you do. I did spend time watching it through my own eyes rather than always staring down the viewfinder of a camera.
Was a nice start to the day. Last year at the Bluff Meet Up, we laid a memorial plaque to TripAdvisor’s very own Tet14. I wanted to go back to Muley Point to check up on it. It was a nice peaceful few moments and a glorious day, just fitted in so right and would make this longer driving day worthwhile. Gave it a bit of a dusting down before putting it back in its little cubby hole……till next time one of the group do a check in.
As a 7yr old, my first sight of the SouthWest scenic wonders was the sight of Spider Rock peering at me in one of my brothers books. After nearly 40 years, I got to see Canyon de Chelly for the first time a couple years back. I wanted to see it again.
I do remember that first sights of the first couple of S Rim viewpoints were stupendously beautiful, and indeed they were again. It is incredibly scenic with its flat bottom and vertical walls. I was never going to stop for long, but did do most of the viewpoints again, ending up at Spider Rock.
The drive back to Cameron was uneventful, but having had the day broken up in sort of 3 stages, the miles passed without issue. I was at Cameron for bang on 4pm. Promptly settled in and relaxed.
I sent a quick message to DannyS who would also be overnighting here to let him know I had arrived. He was busy exploring Cathedral Wash where I was prior to the Meet Up. He had actually highlighted that trail way before and because it sounded great, I managed to do it. He was certainly having some fun and games exploring and sussing out the route finding.
They did both soon arrive nearer to 8pm and we managed to have a quick meal in the restaurant. I couldn’t really decide, so opted for the lazy choice of a Navajo Taco, why not. DannyS did the same.
We said out goodnights and knew it would only be tomorrow when we would meet up yet again.
Day 9 – Wed – 4th Oct – Today and tomorrow would have me concentrating in some serious hiking again. I have done a far bit in recent years including a day hike to the river and back couple years ago. I had plans to do it again, but that would be for tomorrow. Today, would be a hike I’ve heard a fair bit about, a lot less travelled and a good workout. Having been cooped up in the car all day yesterday, it would be good to get some serious legwork done.
So with a brief obligatory stop at the Watchtower, I made my way the GrandView trail head. The GrandView trail to Horseshoe Mesa was on the agenda, a relatively short 3 mile each way hike with whatever exploration or diversion you wanted to take once down there. I had no plans to venture too far out so soon set off.
The trail is not maintained and is very rocky in places. Drop offs would be a factor to some but I’m pretty good with those. Did I say it was steep! Bloody steep. In fact it’s the steepest trail in the park for it’s 3 mile duration descending more than even the S.Kaibab trail. A lot of the trail is loose dirt and rocks which does make it sometimes awkward and the other parts are like compressed pebble surface. Anyway, that doesn’t really matter. The views are generally good most of the way.
Well, this was a joy. No people and the Grand Canyon all to myself. I’ve been here 8 times now and wanted to be away from those pesky tourists for a change. Today was the day. Beautiful weather and had soon made my way down to the mesa.
What you do down there is really up to you. There is camping spots and some pit toilets which I was grateful for. I made my way over to one side and had a late breakfast, just admiring the views.
I did see one other lady who was just packing up her camp, but apart from that, it was all mine. I then explored a bit further on the flat top mesa for a ways past the group camping area and again just found a spot and just sat.
The old mining relics are interesting as is the interesting signage. Think is spent about a couple of hours down there before deciding to make my way back up. I did feel it quite bad as the trail just goes on and on and a killer on the calfs. I needed to do it get some fitness in for tomorrow.
Well, I won’t lie. I was a bit of a wreck once I topped out and had covered just over 9 miles in total.
Checked in at Yavapai and popped a well earnt beer. Spent a relaxing remainder of the day doing a bit of housekeeping and sitting in the lodge reception area where the only chance of Wi-Fi was available.
Again sent some messages to DannyS who was by now exploring the Little Colorado Gorge accessed by nearly 20 miles of dirt road and let’s just say, Mrs DannyS was relieved to see him at the end of the day as he finally reappeared from his trek down.
Went out to catch a bit of sunset with a bright full moon.
We met up again for a light meal at the Lodge canteen and chatted about our adventures of the day. I had enjoyed both their company over the last week and DannyS being such a driving force for getting the MeetUps underway and a good inspiration to a lot of my hiking over the years, I was actually sad to say goodbye.
We would both be here tomorrow exploring the GC but would not cross paths any further.
I actually ran a bath and had a good soak……. Packed the car and sorted out my rucksack for tomorrow. An early start was in order.
Day 10 – Thurs – 5th Oct – Car loaded, checked out and park up to catch the first shuttle to the SK trailhead. Yep 5am and there’s about 7 of us on the bus.
Dark and slightly off bearing at first, I was on my way. Last time I had a headlamp but also a large flashlight. The flashlight worked wonders since the step troughs were full of water and the extra light allowed me to skirt over them. So I didn’t use a headlamp this time. The beam was intense and I could clearly see through the darkness. Had one runner come past and was a little bit worried how he could see clear enough in the darkness. Sure enough, he kept stopping and although when he passed me half hour back, was still only a little ways ahead (maybe 10 mins) so must have been taking it easy.
Ok, I’m not really intent on dawdling my way down and really just want to get to the river. I was happy to just go for it and did a bit of number crunching. Purely for my notes and reference for a later date.
16.6 miles
5.10am start S. KAIBAB 7260ft
5.23am Ooh Aah Pt 6660ft
5.35am Cedar Ridge 6120ft
6.00am flashlight off
6.04am Skeleton Point 5220ft
6.35am Tip Off 4000ft
3.5 miles down in 1hr02mins
7.10am Black Bridge exactly 2hrs and exactly same as last time.
RIVER 2400ft
7.10am to 8.22am Black to Silver bridges
9.55am Indian Gdn 3800ft
10.41am 3 mile rest house 4748ft
????? 1.5 mile rest house 5729ft
12.23pm topped out B.Angel T/H 6860ft
Had the customary dip in the water at the beach whilst watching a group make their way out over the black bridge. I’m at the bottom of the Grand Canyon, again. Such a special place for me.
No real plans at the bottom. A quick stop at Phantom Ranch just to see what was going on. Like last time, very little activity and not the bustling little village I expected. No construction this time so just spent a peaceful few minutes, resting. Resting is boring. I did look around, and up and sideways, but my legs already wanted to move whilst my head was still doing the looking part.
I made my way back up and rather uneventful throughout and even more tiring than last time. I topped out an hour quicker than last time, not because I was quicker, but more so because I’d spent less time at the bottom than last time. I certainly don’t recommend racing or even doing this as a day hike, but would leave others to judge their own capacity. This my my hike and it’s the way I roll.
I was dead at the top. Uncomfortably looking slouched over some concrete bench thing with my boots kicked off. Wasn’t very photogenic at all. I didn’t care, I was back at the top and already sorting my rucksack and clothing out as the day had a bit left to run.
I wouldn’t be overnighting here, but Kingman of all places. Not for the quaint little town itself, but for a break in a longish driving day tomorrow.
I was back on the shuttle, back in the car and saying goodbye to GC for I’m not sure how long in the future. But it had satisfied me immensely these past couple days.
I had to revert back to being the lonely solo traveller as no company tonight. The sleep tonight was rather good.
Day 11 – Fri – 6th Oct – Breakfast in the new La Quinta was hot and plentiful, so good chance to charge up my batteries for a relative driving focused day that would get me to Borrego Springs tonight.
A bit of typical Roadside American sights with some helpful direction from Dez40. This is his neck of the woods, after all. Pretty organised and obvious routing, but making sure I didn’t miss out on any obvious stuff.
Took the eastern 95. There’s two of them apparently. Presumably the other one is for the Californians? I was still in Arizona, for a short while at least. London Bridge. Hey why not? Ok, the surrounding are token English symbols and a nice touch. Whether McCulloch thought he was actually buying ‘Tower Bridge’ seems to still have some contention. It is pretty thou.
Rounded Parker Dam and onwards in CA for a routine stop at the Rice Shoe Fence. I never get the logic over these. Art or unsightly dumps? I could still toss a coin either way. If it’s not shoes, it’s bra’s. Hey, why didn’t Dez tell me where the bra one was…?
The further up along was the Iron Mtn Sign Pole. Think the distance to Perth was the first one, but now most are for non-entities somewhere local, although there were still some good ones on there. The long boring drives most people take would now be interrupted with a smile.
Turning off the I10 into Mecca I was caught out by the expanses of greenery. Agricultural with a lot of picking going on but couldn’t exactly make out what. The other side was obvious with manicured and organised palm trees. Still not had a date shake to date.
Expansive views on the way down with the Salton Sea on the right and a railroad full of carriages carrying allsorts, even Tanks and HumV’s. Bombay Beach was the destination. Ok, was going to be a bit of a voyeur today to see other people’s misfortunes, or even the town’s misfortunes. Did a drive though and had a face mixed with many expressions, sadness, amazement and mostly bewildered.
A few people we floating about and couldn’t really tell the lived in homes (used loosely) to those that were long time abandoned. Really did look like some sort of zombie apocalypse aftermath and expected a bloddied face guy to bang on my window at any stage. A few quirky sights all around. Didn’t venture up to the ruins on the beach since i could feel like my life and energy was slowly been sucked out of me. I had to move on.
It was never smelly, the Salton Sea. I’m sure that’s the reason why initially the whole place failed with its stagnant state, but still somehow expected their still to be a local whiff.
Onwards to Niland then on a tangent to Slab City. Quirky and fun. Didn’t spend much time since the needle was touching 99 degF, a bit too much for me. Salvation Mtn did have a few people milling around. I did find my own boat to sail in and being a Captain of the seas for all of 2 minutes, since JFR, PG, SWT and the crew were hogging the real boats from a few days ago.
Heading back into Niland then again towards the Salton Sea was the infamous mud volcanoes. I did know where they were and punched them into the satnav. What I didn’t know was that the grid roads, soon left being asphalt and were just dirt. A lot of dirt. Goes on forever.
The mud volcanoes are alive. Most reviews now say that there is a lot of harshly worded signage to forbid you access, but when you are out in the sticks, no proper looking humans about and them being there just in front of you, you break the law and go for it. It was less than a minute run e/w, but these little things are cute.
You can hear the bubbling, but I was looking in the pools to search for the bubbles. But no. They are actually proper bloody volcanoes. I have a few videos (not live in pics) but yes, if I closed my eyes I could see myself back at Yellowstone……….ok, I think the sulphur or whatever the by-product of the local mine is may have drifted my mind a bit too far. Saw a couple of Sonny Bono wildlife refuge signs about, so assume he has some ties to the area??
Round the bottom of SS then like everyone else, got pulled over at the Border Stn. Little did I know I was only 30 miles to the Mexican border. Never been to Mexico before. Nevermind. “No Sir, I do not have any passengers in my car”. “No Sir, I’m British”. I’ll let you guess the question.
Lunch, I did somewhere, but it’s never a factor. Just food on the go. Usually not very healthy but deliberately no fast food if i can help it. Think gas station fill ups serve me and the car both.
Still had a bit to go today. Time was on my side. Yes, it still was only lunchtime. Probably about 1 ish. Believe it or not, the rest of my day would be allocated to my Anza Borrego timeline. Yes, part of why I routed to leave by LAX, yet had less than half a day and still wasn’t even there yet.
I already knew what I could do, but the order would slightly change. A quick shot up the 78 till about 1½ miles before my BS turn was the turn off for the Slot. Yes, a slot Canyon only about a 2 mile dirt drive and there it would be. No hike involved, no dying in the desert, just park and drop in. Well, there was one car at the trailhead and just as I dropped down under ground level did the occupants start to emerge. “Have you been here before” was met with the answer of no. “Well you’re gonna luv it” which sounded almost British.
What a bloody fantastic little slot. Ok, a bit uniform in colour, but certainly a good case for a well carved slot, with some fancy shapes and even had to tuck the tummy in for a bit or two. It goes on for a bit, stops, then gets better for the last bit. Total can’t be more than ¼mile. When you get out, the car is already in front of you!. That’s the kind of workload I won’t refuse nearing the end of my trip.
I was supposed to plan on checking in then go out to Fonts Point for sunset. It was still only around 2ish so went straight there. I was happy I did. There was a 4 mile drive through a sandy wash. Not a dirt road, a sandy wash throughout. I’m good for a challenge and although I do admit that some spots were deep and caught me unawares, full power, no-one watching……had the best of fun, sometimes drifting sideways forging through the sand. There was always a gentle climb to the Point and knowing that knew it would always be a gentle decline back down. Again one car was there but the occupants just about returning and leaving. So again, like the Slot, had this all to myself.
Fantastic sight. Sort of a Badlandsy type viewpoint with a wide vista. Very quiet, but absorbing. If I had done this for sunset, then I might have been a bit concerned for my return trip, but in broad daylight, was fantastic drive. Even the GoPro came out for some sandy fun.
The BS resort was lovely, but nothing of the facilities would appeal or be factored in other than the bed I would sleep in. I caught some food from the market ‘in town’. I could have factored in the pencilled in hike to Palm Canyon, but my day was done.
Rest and a good soak for their was a couple of days left and some hiking back on the agenda….
Day 12 – Sat – 7th Oct – Was an early start, made longer by check out lady wanting to charge me for 2 nights. No ma’am, definitely just the one. She should actually charge me for half a night since it wat about 3am. Half hour wasted that I didn’t have.
Anyway, made good time on my 60 mile trip to Lake Poway for the Mt Woodson trailhead. The gates to the parking lot open at 6am but I was there for 5am so had to park up in a line behind one other car.
It would be a hike up to the summit to the ‘Potato Chip’ a slither of rock jutting out from the jumble of rocky boulders that gives rise to some good photo ops. It’s pretty much the reason why 90% climb up to trail, just to get their pic. However getting a pic is a bit long-winded, so each person may take a good few minutes, hence getting the earliest start possible.
When the gates opened, and paying $10 for day parking since I was not a Poway resident, the car was soon parked and I was on my way. My day pack was ready to go as I made my way up the dark trail.
I was following a couple of guys with a dog and with just about enough light emerging, did not need a flashlight. They were quick walkers and the trail rounding the lake soon got steep. Very steep and prolonged. They were much quicker walkers and soon I was walking on my own. The route splits shortly after rounding the lake and heads on up. With no other people in sight, I knew I would encounter relatively few people at the top if I just carried on as I was.
With some steep climbing already behind me on this trip, I don’t know what it was. My legs just did not carry. I was lethargic but still plodded onwards. It actually was relentlessly steep and unforgiving. After being gravel, it turns into a rocky boulder strewn landscape and even has small steep switchbacks. The total trail is just shy of 8 miles r/t and took about 1½hrs going up.
Eventually topped out and found a handful of guys up there, including the two with the dog who I lost earlier. They actually took my pic as you shimmer across from the boulder to climb onto the chip itself. This can be quite difficult itself for some, hence why the changeover between pic-takers can protract things.
Going down was much quicker, but not necessarily much easier, thumping on your legs. I was happier going down as I literally counted 300 people on their way up. It was a Saturday after all. A lot of them had dogs and some looked happy, but a lot looked as tired as their owners as they climbed up.
Took a mundane drive up the I15 for my last 2 nights at Ontario. Not before hitting 2 truck tyres on the freeway, 5 mins apart. First one saw at last second as car in front swerved, but I just clipped it. I was going to pull over to check for damage at the next available off ramp, but then a bigger tyre just appeared from nowhere. Hit that one too.
Night driving, dirts roads, sand washes and no issues, and now this….on open stretches of road in broad daylight. I managed to find a quieter off ramp and squinted as I rounded the front of the car to take a look. Nada, zilch! Not even a scratch or a ding. Was expecting a broken bumper or light or something. Must have had a bit of luck after all.
I’d be staying 2 nights at the same place purely because I couldn’t be bothered to allow for even more 1 night unpacking and packing, plus I also needed some space to spread out to actually get some final packing done. However, I would still need my hiking stuff for tomorrow.
Day 13 – Sun – 8th Oct – At the MeetUp, LVZiggy had try to persuade me to change my final day hike to Big Bear Lake. She sold it to me pretty good, but I had my sights set on Mt Baldy. It was near and a good challenge. After a good hot breakfast offering, I made my way north through the quaint suburbs. Some pretty houses here.
I had planned on the full hike from the outset and was due to park at the Manker Campground area and walk the first stages up the Baldy Road. However, I was in a lazy mood and the first section would be just steep road walking so very boring anyway. So I carried on a ways further to the Ski Lifts parking lot. My National Pass was good for parking and a return ticket of the ski lift to the Notch was $25 on the day, usually $20 if booked online.
I have to say I’ve never rode a ski/chair lift before but the 1 mile/15minute ride sure beat walking up. I did see some walkers below just as it passes under the lift near the top. Sorted myself out and had a rough map to follow, but it didn’t look like anything I could see in front to orientate me. The guy at the top of the lift then pointed me in the right direction. On paper, looking at it now, it’s straightforward. The initial climb is very, very steep, sort of rocky scree and very loose. It’s actually one of the ski runs.
There was one guy up ahead and soon we got talking. He had a GPS plus another snazzy app on his phone tracking his course and elevation. We walked for a bit until the trail split. It was very obvious that the Devils Backbone trail continued sort of straight ahead, but he kept confusing himself with the junction showing on his app. I did tell him don’t turn left, just keep straight ahead……………so he turns left and then we soon parted ways.
The Devils Backbone is rather tame, but the final accent up to Baldy is another steep climb up loose ground. One advantage is that sometime when you hike and you’ve think you’ve reached the top, you often then find another incline waiting for you and have to keep on. Well, today, when it looked like you might reach the top, you were at the top!!!
Pretty good views, but very windy up top. Tried to make out stuff in the distance but my eyes were watery so just sat and had my lunch, cooped up behind a shelter of stones.
15-20 mins is really all I was up there for. I’m very bad at just sitting, even thou I had no other plans for the day. So down I went. 15-20mins of descending, I bump into the same GPS fella. He did admit he followed the trail downhill at that junction (for some reason) then had to u-turn. I told him I never use my GPS for leading a route, just to track my route if im somewhere obscure so I can follow the same route back. Rode the chair lift back down.
Got back to the hotel and did a bit of gift shopping, but otherwise just chilled and drank for a merry while. I deserved it!
Day 14 – Mon – 9th Oct. Home day. Nothing planned. Leave after a late breakfast to miss the rush hour traffic heading west into town. Made my way over to Santa Monica pier and just lazed around for a bit.
The monotonous and tedious homeward bound stretch is always 100 times worse than travelling to a holiday destination, and the next thing I know I was home.
I really enjoyed this trip, fast pace, again with a MeetUp which was my slow down pace days.
Never say never. I’m typing the end of this report having stated it’s a good couple of years before I head back that way…………..but I’m already missing it??!!
Some pics from before and after MeetUp.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/I71Tv7f7sRggZ2qn1
I am slowing down a bit though and although being solo certainly helps, the days were still pretty much jam packed.
Simple loop using gateways at LAS and leaving at LAX. Partly for costs, but also partly because I at least wanted to get a slice of Anza Borrego after many times of missing out. No issues with one way rentals so different start and end points work well.
I had an email from BA a week or so prior to the flight say ITV would be filming for a short period on my flight and make yourself known if you didn’t want your mug shot open to all in the periphery filming. This obviously raised a few eyebrows as to whom and what they would be doing on board? Well, any Brits reading will know of the 70’s and 80’s ‘stars’ who were popping up on our screens in the days when there was still only 4 channels on the TV. No modern day beauties, or pop stars for us today, but we were blessed to be served up with the likes of Canon and Ball, Sue Pollard and the Bernie Cliftons of this world. It was even more of a blessing that they all were doing their thing well away from me since they were in the front portion behind the curtains.
Uneventful flight and some strange questions from immigration soon passed by quickly for me to have already left Walmart armed with some liquid supplies for the next few days, en-route to Downtown.
Don’t bother much with The Strip, nor Vegas as a whole, just a quick kip is all I need. Trust me, it is just a quick one. So, Four Queens is my usual stopover, Cheap, no resort fee, easy walk from the parking garage to the front desk and never anyone in the queue for checking in. Think it was about 5.30pm when I finally plonked into the room. Just with my holdall and a few drinks.
Hmmmmnn, nose started running a bit, what’s this? I thought my cold from a few days ago was history?
Well, I venture out for a bit, up and down Fremont, just taking in a bit of the buzz and trying to tire myself, even though it had been a long day already and I never can sleep on planes. Caught a quick bite to eat, then headed back to the boom boom resonating from the windows of my room overlooking Fremont St. I’m okay with that, when I do sleep, it’s literally like a light switch. Anyone breaking into my room could have a field day if I was asleep which is why I always prop up the room door handles with a chair, ironing board, or a combination of both…..wherever I am.
I was out by 9pm. Fast out.
I was up bright as a fiddle at 11pm. Yup, 2hrs of body being switched off and I’m ready to roll. Quick shower, pack my things and I’m driving out of Vegas at 00.30 headed for Zion.
This trip would be a little on the short side and a bit of memory lane tracing as it’s probably a couple of years before I head back this way. I always say that and might just be back next year, but I do think me and my SouthWest affair need a break. So a trip of mainly highlights and fond places I just want to see again for old time’s sake. A tweak on some hikes and a couple of places new. Also the little task of joining up with the Utah Meet Up at Lake Powell/Page in a matter of a day or so.
Day 2 – Wed 27th Sep – Runny nose and a slight headache accompanied me on my dark drive out of town. Quick and easy drive out pulling up at the parking lot of the VC at 4am. Set the alarm on my phone for an hour and promptly had a power nap. 5am, still an hour before the first shuttle runs so I start sorting out some of my luggage and literally empty everything out in a somewhat organised way, all over the folded down back seats to create an easy access wardrobe. Got changed into more suitable clothing and found my boots. All ready to go, not least with a roll of tissues to keep the nose in check.
Caught the first shuttle and rode with a handful of fellow hikers down the dark drive through the canyon. Yep it was dark, and had just put some new batteries in my headlamp.
Angels Landing would be my only real feat for today. I had other stuff pencilled in but could feel my head getting heavier. I also wanted to explore a bit further up the West Rim Trail. I’ve done AL a few times. The problem with me is I like challenging myself. As someone who was just a scenic overlook picture taker for many years to starting hiking for the first time proper only about 6yrs ago, I’ve steadily pushed myself to go further or quicker or more elevated as the following years progressed. So first time got to AL in a leisurely manner, subsequent times of shy under an hour and then 52mins last time out from Grotto t/h.
Well, it wasn’t going to happen today. First time in the dark, headlamp in use all the way to Walters Wiggles before no longer being required. Made it to the top 59 mins. Well, I am getting older and carrying the burden of a cold, so I’ll take it. I was greeted with the whole thing to myself, so I’ll take the reward nicely.
Day was a bit gloomy thou….and not just the weather. I thought I might be able to shake off the cold but it was not working. It didn’t stop me from venturing further up the WR trail to get the iconic shots of Walters Wiggles. It is a little hard to get to and not without going to the end of the wrong slip rock expanses each time. The obvious looking places do not get your vision sufficiently round enough so you have to go further up the trail. Even where I got mine, I still had to stand precariously on the edge facing a large drop off below.
Got back to the Grotto and just wanted to get to my room. It was about 12.30 by now and even the shuttle ride back to the VC was in a near empty bus. Just what is all this fuss about Zion being overcrowded!! Thankfully, I’ve never experienced it heaving, always had pleasant experiences.
Anyway, I soon found out where all the people were. They were queuing all the way round the VC and onwards, waiting to catch the shuttle. At 1pm!!! Serves them right!
Popped into the Bumbleberry putting on my saddest face asking the receptionist if she could pull a few strings to let me into my room early. Not a chance, 2pm it would be. So went out to the Brew Pub and waited it out, filling my tummy at the same time.
2pm came quick and was soon in my room and out. 12hrs I was in that bed. And, yes, was out of it by 2am.......
Day 3 – Thurs 28th Sep - Meet Up Day 1 - After being bed-ridden for a good 12hrs by an instant flue that almost went as quick as it came, I was ready to leave Springdale after a hearty breakfast. I would be heading to Page at the end of the day to join the start of this year’s Lake Powell Meet-Up. However, still not being 100% fit, my anticipated hike or hikes in east Zion for today, namely Checkerboard Mesa / and Arch was not going to happen. I do like the much quieter east side and have done several of the hikes there in the past, so was a little bit disappointed.
I did, naturally, fit in Canyon Overlook which always is a good way to start the day. And the day indeed, was glorious.
Feeling ever better, I still had a pretty full day lined up. Drove via Kanab on the 89 to the Paria Ghost Town / Old Movie set area not obviously for the non-existent buildings but for it’s widely appreciated surrounding beauty. Not least for when I tried to come down this way 2yrs ago, it had rained the day before and the road had started lovely and smooth but I was soon aquaplaning on the sticky clay so had to U-turn. This time the road was lovely for the 3 or 4 mile drive. Indeed, the area was very pretty with splendid 360 deg views. Didn’t need much time to explore thou.
Visiting here ironically meant I actually had to drive through Page to get to Marble Canyon. Also meant driving past Horseshoe Bend which literally had 100+ people just walking up the initial hill….they looked like ants crawling over the sand. There had been a lot of talk in the Meet-Up preamble about possible doing a group hike or maybe individuals doing at some point or other. For me, most of the 4 full days were already allotted and my times after were definitely allotted to other stuff, so today opened itself up to me. I drove straight past the trailhead about a mile further to catch the balanced rocks which are right beside the road. I then headed back to the empty pull off for the Cathedral Wash trailhead.
I had read a bit about the hike and watched a few YouTube videos and was well aware that although the hike wasn’t very long (think just over 1.5miles e/w), it was the route finding that would be, well let’s just say…fun. A relatively mundane first half mile or so just was walking but then soon you come to a series of pour-offs which vary in degrees of steepness. This sort of stuff is just right up my street, and being solo means no helping hands or foot-ups, it’s all on your own or nothing. The depths of some off these pour-offs admittedly were much steeper than I expected and there were quite a few. It was a case of skirting round the edges and finding suitable places to shimmy down traversing as you do so. More often than not, you backtrack a bit and find another way.
This carried on for pretty much most of the middle section until you reach the reward of the sound of rushing water and indeed the beautiful Colorado River. Yes the reward was worth it. I did hang around for about 15-20mins, but typical of me, feel I have to move on. I really does need a good picnic and 2-4hrs just taking in the views and ……relaxing by the water.
As always with these sort of hikes, you never come back the same way as you came although it’s the same route. It was quicker, about 30mins compared to the 40mins coming in, but I was taking less pictures. I had seen no other person throughout, but just as I neared the trailhead, met a couple just starting out. Thoroughly recommend this hike to anyone looking for fun, reward and a bit of solace.
Naturally stopped at the Navajo bridges for a while looking out for Condors that are never there whenever I’m there. Then I made my way to Page. Again, Horseshoe Bend was no quieter and not worthy of stopping. I do try to stop at places I’ve been regularly in the past too, even if all my pics are exactly the same, but not this time.
I would be staying in a VRBO house sharing with DannyS, Mrs DannyS and BethE for the next few days. I got to the house by 4pm, but little did I know that having for some reason changed my clocks 4 times during the day, mainly due to my satnav predicting arrival times in different time zones, that I had actually arrived at 3pm. No problem. I unloaded the car, got the beer out and had a drink and waited. I no longer carry a mobile phone with a sim, so sent a message via email and FB to let them know I had arrived.
Got cleaned up and showered and by 5pm they both had arrived. Think BethE even showed up before them. Soon our housemates in the house had all arrived. We then headed off the HickHouse literally down the road armed with treats and drinks. Opening the door to nearly a full house, with most of the attendees already there, was warm and inviting. A quick exchange of handshakes and hugs before the chats started and the smell of the bar-b-que aromed down below. No newbies so far, but some notable missing faces. It would have been nice to see a few more of the regulars, but even with year long planning, and with so many attending, it’s only natural that scheduling doesn’t always work.
Just to note that the HickHouse was amazing and had great entertainment space both indoors and out worthy of being a HenHouse.
PG was doing his stuff on the grills as we were all gobbling it up with an assortment of beers, limoncellos and whiskys to wash it down. Then a bit of serious stuff as we had a pretty full attending trip tomorrow, so meant organising drivers with 4x4’s and planning our course of action for tomorrow.
Day 4 – Fri 29th Sep – Meet Up Day 2 – Being a natural early riser anyway, and supposedly jet lag still on my side, I was up early and kicking my heels. I ventured out to catch sunrise at the Dam and Gorge scenic overlook, then drove down past the Hanging Gdn trailhead to the end of the dirt track and a short stroll to catch sunrise proper at the edge of the water. Did this a few times before and a serene and perfect place just to sit and watch and do nothing except see the world waking up and changing colour in front of you.
Think it was about 8am for departure from the HickHouse as we loaded up coolers and snacks and somehow decided (using the long-version) of how we would sit or squeeze in and whether additional vehicles would be needed. Thankfully, the 4 vehicles left fully loaded with a near full house of 20 of us. I was traveling with PG, Mrs PG, LVZiggy and Mr Zig. White Pocket the destination led by PG. Straightforward drive up the 89 and then down House Rock Valley Rd.
Now, I’d say that virtually all of the group have ventured down here in the past to various degrees whether singularly or in a group, but can guarantee all have experienced different road conditions. Last time I was down here was 2013 with my mum in a little Nissan Note to the Wire Pass trailhead. The road today was accepted all round as being pretty good! We collected Kbecjeans who had travelled direct to there having missed the night before.
In the planning stages of the Meet Up, White Pocket outing was an early option and a definite ‘to do’ for most. Mainly because most, well certainly for the likes of me, would never normally venture out into these sort of areas without having the correct vehicle, ‘potential get out of trouble’ contingencies and some sort of knowledgeable guide to know where to look or route your trip. We had that today and also the number to back us up to assist if anyone got stuck. A fair bit of sandy driving would entail. Admittedly, a little part of me wanted to get stuck so we’d have to overcome the challenge to get out, but without that it was still fun. Even if we ended up taking the longer, winding and steeper route there. A fun drive for the drivers of each, but a very bumpy ride for those buckarooing in the back. The general consensus at the end was that it all added to the fun and sure made it more memorable. BethE’s first sand drive was executed with ease in her 4Runner, Tommy probably had the best vehicle for the job in his Jeep and DannyS was already well suited for this type of terrain anyway so took it in his stride.
Eventually ended up at the trailhead and met with half dozen or so vehicles there already, including a Hummer tour, sorted out our gear then had a group agreed 2½hr exploration time. Everyone then parted ways and began to explore, but be dazzled by the scenery at the same time. Very whimsical formation, fabulous colours and twisted and contorted patterns. It was relatively a small area, but there was so much to see. Even viewing a formation seemed to make it changed completely when viewed from another angle. So many wave like patterns and ‘brain rock’ and easy climbing to get into the nooks and crannies made it very accessible. Not least was a great vista behind.
Everyone was pretty much on their own, bumping into to others as they went. Some I didn’t even see again until we were back at the cars, others I bumped into numerous times all over the place.
Little did we know that shortly after we left would there be some vandalism whether intended or not. Some blue spray paint or explosive discharge residue had tarnished the rocks in a very obvious place. Hopefully, most will wash off naturally.
We took the flatter and shorter route back and split with DannyS as he had to rendezvous Kbecjeans back with her car as the rest of us took the shorter route on dirt back via the 89A.
Had another great night at the HickHouse, with PG not the least bit fussed after his guiding today, back on the grills. I still don’t quite know how they manage to do it. RedRox and his dear other half did a lot of the grocery shopping this MeetUp and having nightly endless buffet food ending up at $8-$10 is mind boggling. The prep-work is often overlooked, so a big shout out to those guys and others who sorted out the foody stuff!
DanP was our newbie tonight and in time for our group photo. Good to hear he’d be boating with us tomorrow.
Did I say boating?????
It was a Lake Powell Meet Up after all so time for (thankfully) most of us on the water tomorrow!. A lot of the guys having been in and around Page over the years would not have had time or reason to factor days on Lake Powell itself. I know for sure, I would never have allocated any of my time for such thing. Page, after seeing the sights usually on a first visit is normally an overnight stopover afterwards. Thankfully, lake exploration would be 50% of most of our time allocation, but to varying degrees. However tomorrow would be another nearly full group day. Those that wouldn’t be participating, would have other things lined up such as golf or other typical Page exploration.
So step up RedRox and JFR. Literally on the steps of the staircase. RedRox giving us his customary initial Meet Up speech and planning cues for the coming days. Then JFR with his expert knowledge and much pre-planning (which of course in typical JFR prose would say it was no big deal) explained to us drylanders what would entail tomorrow for sure, and then for some, on Sunday too.
We had a pontoon boat and speedboat lined up for beaching somewhere to include some exploration in the speedboat. Along with kayaks, paddleboard and a merry bunch of folks made for a perfect day tomorrow. Anticipation was high for tomorrow. Weather forecast would be perfect.
Day 5 – Sat 30th Sep – Meet Up Day 3 – Almost opposite the Wahweap Marina turn leads you to some hoodoos. I ventured up there for next morning and am not sure if I really got to where I wanted to go. Apparently there should be some mushroom type formations but without longer exploration time, I don’t think I found them. I was happy with what I got. The route I think I needed to go was boarded with ‘No authorised entry’.
We would be hiring from Antelope Marina and I got there for 7.30ish. Walking down the walkway, caught up with Anna. Anna is this year’s Meet Up most photo orientated member and what a fantastic eye she has too. During this Meet Up, we have almost relied upon her giving us our iconic shots of some of the wonderful places we visited, but also following her on her FB page with her individual tours she did of slot canyons and around. We soon found JFR then Kbecjeans as the others slowly filtered down with the supplies. This boating stuff does still rely on a lot of prepping and paperwork before you finally get going and after sussing out which pontoon boat was ours 009, not quite 007, but we were ok with that, we finally got the details sorted for the speedboat. A few accessories like the stand-up paddle board and a couple of single seater kayaks would add to the fun. We did have a tube that never did get used.
I think everyone to a man was impressed with the size and facilities of the pontoon and before long we were on our way. We split up into both boats and scouted for a beach. I later swapped from the pontoon to the speedboat and along with JFR, Anna and Mr Zig we were treated to some eccentric speedboat driving by SWT with a firm concentrated look on her face. Full speed ahead or dead stop with nothing in between sure made for some near whiplash moves. It was so funny I wouldn’t have wanted, nor expected anything else from her! Soon we found the ideal spot. For a lake newbie, I was easily impressed. Just how beautiful Lake Powell and the surround shores are, but more so just how big it really is. Looking at a map and seeing little channels and waterways turn into wide expanses when actually on the water.
Did I say that multi-talented PG was even Captain on the Pontoon boat? Chef, guide and Captain is a bit greedy I think

JFR, after finding our beaching spot dumped (sorry, stranded us to fend for our lives) me, Anna and Mr SWT sit and mark our territory. After 2 mins, we were already scrawling in the sand…..HELP US! NO BEER!
Before long, the gang arrived. We actually had a great spot. DannyS and Mrs brought along a great shaded canopy and within a few short minutes, we were anchored, canopied and fully foody set up. Fold up chairs galore and the whole setup looked somewhat organised for a bunch of otherwise, unruly cats. It’s hard to believe just how much stuff we needed to unload from the boat.
The rest of the day was a great day. We had salads mixed with chicken and others to make nice fillers for sandwiches and along with other leftovers and flowing drinks were never left hungry.
Now time for fun. JFR was already floated up and drifting in the water in his lift jacket. SRW and Kbecjeans had specifically wanted to hone their skills on the stand up paddleboard and they had a pretty good go. SRW was somewhat surprised at just how good she was. Mr SWT had a go, not bad, quite a nice shape arc. Mrs DannyS was already kayaking and others were happy to eat and relax. Over time, the paddle boarding, which seemed to be the most entertaining form of activity was steadily getting harder and clumsier. Not for LVZiggy who seemed to take it in her stride, although I’m not 100% looked comfortable. So guess what. By now, people led by JFR were already using the slide like little kids with exit star shapes and scouting for point marks. I was then on the slide which had it’s very own water button the speed up affairs and although got probably 1 point for style and 1 for grace and execution, got 10 for just having to give the fudger a go. We all scored similar points in the end
.Paddle boarding……….i think I have quite good balance, the others made it look easy, so why not. Did I struggle or what! What the hell is this thing! Wibbly wobbly all over the place making me look so clumsy. So clumsy that when I fell off pretty soon after climbing on I lost my sunglasses and cap, I wasn’t having any of it. Get back on somewhat unorthodoxly and promptly do the same again. This time cap goes floating off and not being the strongest swimmer and just not getting the balance right, get a lot of moral support from LVZiggy who promptly comes to my rescue….and rescues my cap. She still manages to hold somewhat of a balance but still looks uneasy. With PG and Mrs PG also trying and succeeding and struggling to varying degrees, we only find out later when trying to re-load that the paddle board was full of water. That’s why I was so crap……or so I like to believe.
The beach was great, the scenery was better, the experience was unmatched. Thanks for this opportunity I would never have done otherwise!
Others took an off shoot exploring on the speedboat some canyons. The rest remained and chatted and chilled with beers and food and just good company all round. Got a good chance to mix with DanP who blended in just great with the group. Managed to have a good chat with him on the inbound trip to the marina along with some beer bottle sliding across the counter shenanigans with Mrs DannyS who must have encouraged me since I am somewhat restrained normally.
Back at the marina was somewhat protracted, but what to I know about signing off. The refuelling saga seemed like nothing was happening. But before long we offloaded and somehow found our vehicles and headed back.
Back at the house, we had a group photo of sorts and chatted about our successes and failings and found out what others who didn’t boat, got up to. Food and drinks flowing was so easy to slip through minutes and hours.
I’m sure……which might be in question……that today is the day I tasted my best fish ever!!! Earlier when arriving home, I found BethE casually cooking on the bar-b-que and just about ready as I arrived. What have you cooked young lady? The answer was probably the…..tastiest….fish…..meal….i…have…ever….tasted . Ok, you get the idea, but what she had seasoned and served and offered to taste was scrumpulicious!!!!!. Managed to have a long chat with Beth and she is genuinely one of the nicest people I have ever met. Well-travelled and so accepting. I am honoured to call her a friend of mine. Not a bad cook either.
Day 6 – Sun 1st Oct – Meet Up Day 4 – Today was sort yourself out your own way day. Boaters had their second day on the lake with some beautiful and fascinating experiences. I can only say that snce I’ve seen their pics and heard their selfish stories as to why they could not persuade me enough to attend. But hi five as it appears to be a great fulfilling day.
For the rest of us, we were protracted. Antelope canyon, Marble Canyon, Lees Ferry, golfing and what not. Forget about hem, this is my trip report…………
In the pre-planning process, ‘some’ of us expressed a wish to venture out to Rainbow Bridge whether in the speedboat on the second day or otherwise. Slowly it became clear that the second day speedboat would become an exploration of side canyons and others would decide to allocate days as they wanted.
This, I think was the most protracted day were most spread out to do the things they really wanted. Golf, Antelope, Glen Canyon Dam, Lees Ferry covered most as well as the speedboaters.
For me, I was on my own with a tour to Rainbow Bridge. I would never normally have bothered, even with how much I wanted to see this natural wonder to have ever done it since it involved water and Lake Powell, as mention earlier. With no one else, now expressing the wish, the Rainbow Bridge tour with tourist tour people and not my norm, was the order of the day. Trust me, I do not like touristy things……………………….with hoards of people……………………..
It actually wasn’t so bad.
I got open deck at the back of the boat and had a pleasant ride in. Little did I know until afterwards that a bunch of happygolucky merchants in a speedboats were passing me and waving to me expecting me to see them.,……….mane JFR and the unruly gang in their spendacular canyon outing, of which I’m sure they will convey, just like they conveyed to me that that I might just have made the wrong decision to explore the beautiful and unique Rainbow Bridge instead of their fantastic and awesome experience of canyons of Lake Powell of which I had the misfortune of later seeing pictures. Bloody fudging damn in British! Dang in American!
Who cares!. I actually really enjoyed my day. Rainbow Bridge was awesome! Way bigger, way impressive than I expected. The tour boat was the only boat of the day and was quick, It had to slow down for each house boat it passed to avoid disrupting them with its wake but that was ok. I had got off the boat 2nd so with quick walking got to the Bridge on my own. I then got to the trail to the back side and actually just sat and looked at the arch before taking photos. It’s always easy to just take pictures but difficult to remember actually seeing with your own eyes. So I just sat and looked. The Captain was better on the return actually guiding us and pointing out features like the broken heart and steps on the way back.
Well, back at the marina and on my own. Had originally planned on hiring a mountain bike to do the rim trail with some guidance from the Zigs, but ended up doing Horseshoe Bend. You know the one with the ants on?
Evenings to me are sometimes a blur. Enough said. I do recall we had a, let’s say energetic topic of discussion about the ‘English’ language. Yes, the British English language and how I had to put some unruly Americans straight about letters and correct grammer/pronunciation. Let’s just say, with the numbers against me, I held my ground with the help of SWT. And we even mentioned the Queen (Our Queen) for confirmation somewhere that I can’t remember, but the Queen trumps all (NOT YOUR TRUMP), doesn’t she? That night was good.
Sadly, tonight would be a night of goodbyes. Not being local, or subject to routine mini-meetups, I do take it quite hard. Kbecjeans has always looked after me and always has nothing but kind words.
Most evenings we would have a catch up chat at home with DannyS and Mrs, with BethE. By now BethE had ventured off.
Another big group led by PD for tomorrow……….
Day 7 – 2nd Oct – Meet Up Day 5 – Get together time at HickHouse was a blur. Thankfully OhioHick and Mrs would be joining us again today. Such an underrated guy who does so much back room stuff that I promise doesn’t go unnoticed. I think I had some pretty good chats with this cat herder for the first time and realised every single one of us is just so on the same level it’s unreal. We all love the southwest, regardless of where we come from………….and where we come from. He’s a top guy and am glad to call him a friend.
Cars, ok, I’ll add mine so we are not squeezed up! Only me and JFR in my car so endless chatting as only me and JFR are renowned for. Favourite food, US/UK traffic signs, and much more are on the agenda with some conclusion and agreement and little disagreeing involved since we are buddies from opposite end of the pond with mutual thinking. Hey, this guy helped me on trips gone by way back……………..before I even met him. TripAdvisor is great for tour planning but even better for friendship making. I’ve passed through his hometown with my mum when I needed help and this Lake and boating sort of guy still managed to guide me along and save face with my mum. That sort of thing is priceless. And as a guy and forget all this planning stuff, I class him as a mate. He has fantastic lingual in skills in British accent swearing. He can swear like a trooper. I have taught you well, my son.
Sorry, we were going somewhere today?
In a caravan of cars, we followed PG to lead us on perhaps the most splendid hike of the Meet Up and probably the most spectacular place I’ve been to. Now, I’ve seen some pretty good stuff in my time, but bang for buck, this tops all, even better than White Pocket and with fabulous company.
Back down HRV Road, this time to West Clark Bench. Ok, never heard of it before, but this place became apparent during planning and was another must-do that a group of us would like to visit.
A $6 per person admittance was little change to be able to explore this region. Literally led by PG, we all followed. A group of me, PG, JFR, SJG and Mr, SWT and Mr and OhioHick and Mrs. We all followed suit down the wash and soon entered this Mars like landscape that literally blew us all away. These seem like light words, but I’m sure all of us would say we have never experienced anything like this.
Lace work, folded rocks, fantastic colours, even better vistas, brain rocks and such splendid exploration gets a hearty approval from me.
If I was pushed, this day was probably my best day out west that I have ever experienced. This would be a total a proper British thumbs up to PG.
If you look at following pics, tell me if you have ever seen better than that!!!!
JFR was a proper smoothy talker on the way back. The night was good. I said my byes to RedRox and Mrs and M&M, thanks to PG and Debs, SWT’s were awesome as usual and Tommy and Beth, obviously a dear friend SRW of whom we always have a mutual respect . The OH’s done a job well done and DanyS and Mrs…….well….story to be continued.
Looking forward to when i migtht next be able to meet up with this crazy bunch!
Thanks for some good times.
Bunch of pics unedited from phone and camera.......
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Day 8 – Tues - 3rd Oct – We had all said our byes the night before, with some guys still hanging around today, at least for the morning. I had also said my byes to my housemates DannyS and Mrs although we would still be tagging along for the next couple of nights as our following schedule was such an ironic coincidence.
For now, I was off. It was about 4am or some silly time like that. I would be overnighting tonight at Cameron, only 88 miles from where I set off, only that would be silly. Why take the 88 mile route when you could take the scenic 502 mile route. Yes the 502 mile route it was.
Remember I said it would be partially a trip down memory lane, well hence the routing today. Unlike my normal planning which is quite regimented, this was rather thrown together over the past few days. I wanted a quick peek back at Monument Valley which is where I headed first. Got there for sunrise and although I didn’t really need any more pics, it’s just what you do. I did spend time watching it through my own eyes rather than always staring down the viewfinder of a camera.
Was a nice start to the day. Last year at the Bluff Meet Up, we laid a memorial plaque to TripAdvisor’s very own Tet14. I wanted to go back to Muley Point to check up on it. It was a nice peaceful few moments and a glorious day, just fitted in so right and would make this longer driving day worthwhile. Gave it a bit of a dusting down before putting it back in its little cubby hole……till next time one of the group do a check in.
As a 7yr old, my first sight of the SouthWest scenic wonders was the sight of Spider Rock peering at me in one of my brothers books. After nearly 40 years, I got to see Canyon de Chelly for the first time a couple years back. I wanted to see it again.
I do remember that first sights of the first couple of S Rim viewpoints were stupendously beautiful, and indeed they were again. It is incredibly scenic with its flat bottom and vertical walls. I was never going to stop for long, but did do most of the viewpoints again, ending up at Spider Rock.
The drive back to Cameron was uneventful, but having had the day broken up in sort of 3 stages, the miles passed without issue. I was at Cameron for bang on 4pm. Promptly settled in and relaxed.
I sent a quick message to DannyS who would also be overnighting here to let him know I had arrived. He was busy exploring Cathedral Wash where I was prior to the Meet Up. He had actually highlighted that trail way before and because it sounded great, I managed to do it. He was certainly having some fun and games exploring and sussing out the route finding.
They did both soon arrive nearer to 8pm and we managed to have a quick meal in the restaurant. I couldn’t really decide, so opted for the lazy choice of a Navajo Taco, why not. DannyS did the same.
We said out goodnights and knew it would only be tomorrow when we would meet up yet again.
Day 9 – Wed – 4th Oct – Today and tomorrow would have me concentrating in some serious hiking again. I have done a far bit in recent years including a day hike to the river and back couple years ago. I had plans to do it again, but that would be for tomorrow. Today, would be a hike I’ve heard a fair bit about, a lot less travelled and a good workout. Having been cooped up in the car all day yesterday, it would be good to get some serious legwork done.
So with a brief obligatory stop at the Watchtower, I made my way the GrandView trail head. The GrandView trail to Horseshoe Mesa was on the agenda, a relatively short 3 mile each way hike with whatever exploration or diversion you wanted to take once down there. I had no plans to venture too far out so soon set off.
The trail is not maintained and is very rocky in places. Drop offs would be a factor to some but I’m pretty good with those. Did I say it was steep! Bloody steep. In fact it’s the steepest trail in the park for it’s 3 mile duration descending more than even the S.Kaibab trail. A lot of the trail is loose dirt and rocks which does make it sometimes awkward and the other parts are like compressed pebble surface. Anyway, that doesn’t really matter. The views are generally good most of the way.
Well, this was a joy. No people and the Grand Canyon all to myself. I’ve been here 8 times now and wanted to be away from those pesky tourists for a change. Today was the day. Beautiful weather and had soon made my way down to the mesa.
What you do down there is really up to you. There is camping spots and some pit toilets which I was grateful for. I made my way over to one side and had a late breakfast, just admiring the views.
I did see one other lady who was just packing up her camp, but apart from that, it was all mine. I then explored a bit further on the flat top mesa for a ways past the group camping area and again just found a spot and just sat.
The old mining relics are interesting as is the interesting signage. Think is spent about a couple of hours down there before deciding to make my way back up. I did feel it quite bad as the trail just goes on and on and a killer on the calfs. I needed to do it get some fitness in for tomorrow.
Well, I won’t lie. I was a bit of a wreck once I topped out and had covered just over 9 miles in total.
Checked in at Yavapai and popped a well earnt beer. Spent a relaxing remainder of the day doing a bit of housekeeping and sitting in the lodge reception area where the only chance of Wi-Fi was available.
Again sent some messages to DannyS who was by now exploring the Little Colorado Gorge accessed by nearly 20 miles of dirt road and let’s just say, Mrs DannyS was relieved to see him at the end of the day as he finally reappeared from his trek down.
Went out to catch a bit of sunset with a bright full moon.
We met up again for a light meal at the Lodge canteen and chatted about our adventures of the day. I had enjoyed both their company over the last week and DannyS being such a driving force for getting the MeetUps underway and a good inspiration to a lot of my hiking over the years, I was actually sad to say goodbye.
We would both be here tomorrow exploring the GC but would not cross paths any further.
I actually ran a bath and had a good soak……. Packed the car and sorted out my rucksack for tomorrow. An early start was in order.
Day 10 – Thurs – 5th Oct – Car loaded, checked out and park up to catch the first shuttle to the SK trailhead. Yep 5am and there’s about 7 of us on the bus.
Dark and slightly off bearing at first, I was on my way. Last time I had a headlamp but also a large flashlight. The flashlight worked wonders since the step troughs were full of water and the extra light allowed me to skirt over them. So I didn’t use a headlamp this time. The beam was intense and I could clearly see through the darkness. Had one runner come past and was a little bit worried how he could see clear enough in the darkness. Sure enough, he kept stopping and although when he passed me half hour back, was still only a little ways ahead (maybe 10 mins) so must have been taking it easy.
Ok, I’m not really intent on dawdling my way down and really just want to get to the river. I was happy to just go for it and did a bit of number crunching. Purely for my notes and reference for a later date.
16.6 miles
5.10am start S. KAIBAB 7260ft
5.23am Ooh Aah Pt 6660ft
5.35am Cedar Ridge 6120ft
6.00am flashlight off
6.04am Skeleton Point 5220ft
6.35am Tip Off 4000ft
3.5 miles down in 1hr02mins
7.10am Black Bridge exactly 2hrs and exactly same as last time.
RIVER 2400ft
7.10am to 8.22am Black to Silver bridges
9.55am Indian Gdn 3800ft
10.41am 3 mile rest house 4748ft
????? 1.5 mile rest house 5729ft
12.23pm topped out B.Angel T/H 6860ft
Had the customary dip in the water at the beach whilst watching a group make their way out over the black bridge. I’m at the bottom of the Grand Canyon, again. Such a special place for me.
No real plans at the bottom. A quick stop at Phantom Ranch just to see what was going on. Like last time, very little activity and not the bustling little village I expected. No construction this time so just spent a peaceful few minutes, resting. Resting is boring. I did look around, and up and sideways, but my legs already wanted to move whilst my head was still doing the looking part.
I made my way back up and rather uneventful throughout and even more tiring than last time. I topped out an hour quicker than last time, not because I was quicker, but more so because I’d spent less time at the bottom than last time. I certainly don’t recommend racing or even doing this as a day hike, but would leave others to judge their own capacity. This my my hike and it’s the way I roll.
I was dead at the top. Uncomfortably looking slouched over some concrete bench thing with my boots kicked off. Wasn’t very photogenic at all. I didn’t care, I was back at the top and already sorting my rucksack and clothing out as the day had a bit left to run.
I wouldn’t be overnighting here, but Kingman of all places. Not for the quaint little town itself, but for a break in a longish driving day tomorrow.
I was back on the shuttle, back in the car and saying goodbye to GC for I’m not sure how long in the future. But it had satisfied me immensely these past couple days.
I had to revert back to being the lonely solo traveller as no company tonight. The sleep tonight was rather good.
Day 11 – Fri – 6th Oct – Breakfast in the new La Quinta was hot and plentiful, so good chance to charge up my batteries for a relative driving focused day that would get me to Borrego Springs tonight.
A bit of typical Roadside American sights with some helpful direction from Dez40. This is his neck of the woods, after all. Pretty organised and obvious routing, but making sure I didn’t miss out on any obvious stuff.
Took the eastern 95. There’s two of them apparently. Presumably the other one is for the Californians? I was still in Arizona, for a short while at least. London Bridge. Hey why not? Ok, the surrounding are token English symbols and a nice touch. Whether McCulloch thought he was actually buying ‘Tower Bridge’ seems to still have some contention. It is pretty thou.
Rounded Parker Dam and onwards in CA for a routine stop at the Rice Shoe Fence. I never get the logic over these. Art or unsightly dumps? I could still toss a coin either way. If it’s not shoes, it’s bra’s. Hey, why didn’t Dez tell me where the bra one was…?
The further up along was the Iron Mtn Sign Pole. Think the distance to Perth was the first one, but now most are for non-entities somewhere local, although there were still some good ones on there. The long boring drives most people take would now be interrupted with a smile.
Turning off the I10 into Mecca I was caught out by the expanses of greenery. Agricultural with a lot of picking going on but couldn’t exactly make out what. The other side was obvious with manicured and organised palm trees. Still not had a date shake to date.
Expansive views on the way down with the Salton Sea on the right and a railroad full of carriages carrying allsorts, even Tanks and HumV’s. Bombay Beach was the destination. Ok, was going to be a bit of a voyeur today to see other people’s misfortunes, or even the town’s misfortunes. Did a drive though and had a face mixed with many expressions, sadness, amazement and mostly bewildered.
A few people we floating about and couldn’t really tell the lived in homes (used loosely) to those that were long time abandoned. Really did look like some sort of zombie apocalypse aftermath and expected a bloddied face guy to bang on my window at any stage. A few quirky sights all around. Didn’t venture up to the ruins on the beach since i could feel like my life and energy was slowly been sucked out of me. I had to move on.
It was never smelly, the Salton Sea. I’m sure that’s the reason why initially the whole place failed with its stagnant state, but still somehow expected their still to be a local whiff.
Onwards to Niland then on a tangent to Slab City. Quirky and fun. Didn’t spend much time since the needle was touching 99 degF, a bit too much for me. Salvation Mtn did have a few people milling around. I did find my own boat to sail in and being a Captain of the seas for all of 2 minutes, since JFR, PG, SWT and the crew were hogging the real boats from a few days ago.
Heading back into Niland then again towards the Salton Sea was the infamous mud volcanoes. I did know where they were and punched them into the satnav. What I didn’t know was that the grid roads, soon left being asphalt and were just dirt. A lot of dirt. Goes on forever.
The mud volcanoes are alive. Most reviews now say that there is a lot of harshly worded signage to forbid you access, but when you are out in the sticks, no proper looking humans about and them being there just in front of you, you break the law and go for it. It was less than a minute run e/w, but these little things are cute.
You can hear the bubbling, but I was looking in the pools to search for the bubbles. But no. They are actually proper bloody volcanoes. I have a few videos (not live in pics) but yes, if I closed my eyes I could see myself back at Yellowstone……….ok, I think the sulphur or whatever the by-product of the local mine is may have drifted my mind a bit too far. Saw a couple of Sonny Bono wildlife refuge signs about, so assume he has some ties to the area??
Round the bottom of SS then like everyone else, got pulled over at the Border Stn. Little did I know I was only 30 miles to the Mexican border. Never been to Mexico before. Nevermind. “No Sir, I do not have any passengers in my car”. “No Sir, I’m British”. I’ll let you guess the question.
Lunch, I did somewhere, but it’s never a factor. Just food on the go. Usually not very healthy but deliberately no fast food if i can help it. Think gas station fill ups serve me and the car both.
Still had a bit to go today. Time was on my side. Yes, it still was only lunchtime. Probably about 1 ish. Believe it or not, the rest of my day would be allocated to my Anza Borrego timeline. Yes, part of why I routed to leave by LAX, yet had less than half a day and still wasn’t even there yet.
I already knew what I could do, but the order would slightly change. A quick shot up the 78 till about 1½ miles before my BS turn was the turn off for the Slot. Yes, a slot Canyon only about a 2 mile dirt drive and there it would be. No hike involved, no dying in the desert, just park and drop in. Well, there was one car at the trailhead and just as I dropped down under ground level did the occupants start to emerge. “Have you been here before” was met with the answer of no. “Well you’re gonna luv it” which sounded almost British.
What a bloody fantastic little slot. Ok, a bit uniform in colour, but certainly a good case for a well carved slot, with some fancy shapes and even had to tuck the tummy in for a bit or two. It goes on for a bit, stops, then gets better for the last bit. Total can’t be more than ¼mile. When you get out, the car is already in front of you!. That’s the kind of workload I won’t refuse nearing the end of my trip.
I was supposed to plan on checking in then go out to Fonts Point for sunset. It was still only around 2ish so went straight there. I was happy I did. There was a 4 mile drive through a sandy wash. Not a dirt road, a sandy wash throughout. I’m good for a challenge and although I do admit that some spots were deep and caught me unawares, full power, no-one watching……had the best of fun, sometimes drifting sideways forging through the sand. There was always a gentle climb to the Point and knowing that knew it would always be a gentle decline back down. Again one car was there but the occupants just about returning and leaving. So again, like the Slot, had this all to myself.
Fantastic sight. Sort of a Badlandsy type viewpoint with a wide vista. Very quiet, but absorbing. If I had done this for sunset, then I might have been a bit concerned for my return trip, but in broad daylight, was fantastic drive. Even the GoPro came out for some sandy fun.
The BS resort was lovely, but nothing of the facilities would appeal or be factored in other than the bed I would sleep in. I caught some food from the market ‘in town’. I could have factored in the pencilled in hike to Palm Canyon, but my day was done.
Rest and a good soak for their was a couple of days left and some hiking back on the agenda….
Day 12 – Sat – 7th Oct – Was an early start, made longer by check out lady wanting to charge me for 2 nights. No ma’am, definitely just the one. She should actually charge me for half a night since it wat about 3am. Half hour wasted that I didn’t have.
Anyway, made good time on my 60 mile trip to Lake Poway for the Mt Woodson trailhead. The gates to the parking lot open at 6am but I was there for 5am so had to park up in a line behind one other car.
It would be a hike up to the summit to the ‘Potato Chip’ a slither of rock jutting out from the jumble of rocky boulders that gives rise to some good photo ops. It’s pretty much the reason why 90% climb up to trail, just to get their pic. However getting a pic is a bit long-winded, so each person may take a good few minutes, hence getting the earliest start possible.
When the gates opened, and paying $10 for day parking since I was not a Poway resident, the car was soon parked and I was on my way. My day pack was ready to go as I made my way up the dark trail.
I was following a couple of guys with a dog and with just about enough light emerging, did not need a flashlight. They were quick walkers and the trail rounding the lake soon got steep. Very steep and prolonged. They were much quicker walkers and soon I was walking on my own. The route splits shortly after rounding the lake and heads on up. With no other people in sight, I knew I would encounter relatively few people at the top if I just carried on as I was.
With some steep climbing already behind me on this trip, I don’t know what it was. My legs just did not carry. I was lethargic but still plodded onwards. It actually was relentlessly steep and unforgiving. After being gravel, it turns into a rocky boulder strewn landscape and even has small steep switchbacks. The total trail is just shy of 8 miles r/t and took about 1½hrs going up.
Eventually topped out and found a handful of guys up there, including the two with the dog who I lost earlier. They actually took my pic as you shimmer across from the boulder to climb onto the chip itself. This can be quite difficult itself for some, hence why the changeover between pic-takers can protract things.
Going down was much quicker, but not necessarily much easier, thumping on your legs. I was happier going down as I literally counted 300 people on their way up. It was a Saturday after all. A lot of them had dogs and some looked happy, but a lot looked as tired as their owners as they climbed up.
Took a mundane drive up the I15 for my last 2 nights at Ontario. Not before hitting 2 truck tyres on the freeway, 5 mins apart. First one saw at last second as car in front swerved, but I just clipped it. I was going to pull over to check for damage at the next available off ramp, but then a bigger tyre just appeared from nowhere. Hit that one too.
Night driving, dirts roads, sand washes and no issues, and now this….on open stretches of road in broad daylight. I managed to find a quieter off ramp and squinted as I rounded the front of the car to take a look. Nada, zilch! Not even a scratch or a ding. Was expecting a broken bumper or light or something. Must have had a bit of luck after all.
I’d be staying 2 nights at the same place purely because I couldn’t be bothered to allow for even more 1 night unpacking and packing, plus I also needed some space to spread out to actually get some final packing done. However, I would still need my hiking stuff for tomorrow.
Day 13 – Sun – 8th Oct – At the MeetUp, LVZiggy had try to persuade me to change my final day hike to Big Bear Lake. She sold it to me pretty good, but I had my sights set on Mt Baldy. It was near and a good challenge. After a good hot breakfast offering, I made my way north through the quaint suburbs. Some pretty houses here.
I had planned on the full hike from the outset and was due to park at the Manker Campground area and walk the first stages up the Baldy Road. However, I was in a lazy mood and the first section would be just steep road walking so very boring anyway. So I carried on a ways further to the Ski Lifts parking lot. My National Pass was good for parking and a return ticket of the ski lift to the Notch was $25 on the day, usually $20 if booked online.
I have to say I’ve never rode a ski/chair lift before but the 1 mile/15minute ride sure beat walking up. I did see some walkers below just as it passes under the lift near the top. Sorted myself out and had a rough map to follow, but it didn’t look like anything I could see in front to orientate me. The guy at the top of the lift then pointed me in the right direction. On paper, looking at it now, it’s straightforward. The initial climb is very, very steep, sort of rocky scree and very loose. It’s actually one of the ski runs.
There was one guy up ahead and soon we got talking. He had a GPS plus another snazzy app on his phone tracking his course and elevation. We walked for a bit until the trail split. It was very obvious that the Devils Backbone trail continued sort of straight ahead, but he kept confusing himself with the junction showing on his app. I did tell him don’t turn left, just keep straight ahead……………so he turns left and then we soon parted ways.
The Devils Backbone is rather tame, but the final accent up to Baldy is another steep climb up loose ground. One advantage is that sometime when you hike and you’ve think you’ve reached the top, you often then find another incline waiting for you and have to keep on. Well, today, when it looked like you might reach the top, you were at the top!!!
Pretty good views, but very windy up top. Tried to make out stuff in the distance but my eyes were watery so just sat and had my lunch, cooped up behind a shelter of stones.
15-20 mins is really all I was up there for. I’m very bad at just sitting, even thou I had no other plans for the day. So down I went. 15-20mins of descending, I bump into the same GPS fella. He did admit he followed the trail downhill at that junction (for some reason) then had to u-turn. I told him I never use my GPS for leading a route, just to track my route if im somewhere obscure so I can follow the same route back. Rode the chair lift back down.
Got back to the hotel and did a bit of gift shopping, but otherwise just chilled and drank for a merry while. I deserved it!
Day 14 – Mon – 9th Oct. Home day. Nothing planned. Leave after a late breakfast to miss the rush hour traffic heading west into town. Made my way over to Santa Monica pier and just lazed around for a bit.
The monotonous and tedious homeward bound stretch is always 100 times worse than travelling to a holiday destination, and the next thing I know I was home.
I really enjoyed this trip, fast pace, again with a MeetUp which was my slow down pace days.
Never say never. I’m typing the end of this report having stated it’s a good couple of years before I head back that way…………..but I’m already missing it??!!
Some pics from before and after MeetUp.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/I71Tv7f7sRggZ2qn1
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Thanks for your report and photos. We were in some of the same areas last month. We missed condors at Navajo Bridge too but did see them at the Vermillion Cliffs release site from really, really far away. In all of my pre-trip research, I never came across mention of West Clark Bench. Looks fantastic and I'll have to add it to my list for next time.
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