Trip Report - Port Townsend / Port Hadlock and Aero Museum
Dec 9th, 2007, 03:19 PM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,121
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trip Report - Port Townsend / Port Hadlock and Aero Museum
In early November my husband and I took a little trip to Port Townsend and Port Hadlock on the Olympic peninsula in Washington State. Here is a brief report.
We took a morning ferry (Coho – about $55 one way) from Victoria to Port Angeles, arriving in fog. We were among the last to leave the ferry and therefore get through customs but that only took about 15-20 minutes in total. The friendly customs (immigration?) man advised turning right instead of left out of the terminal because of road construction and this led to a happy surprise for my husband - a hobby shop just down the street.
Sequim – lavender/farm land and a sandy spit
I like Sequim. For one thing, it (like the sunny San Juan Islands) sits in the Olympic rain shadow so it is drier and sunnier than surrounding areas. A grain elevator loomed out of the fog on this day so it was not a good time for sightseeing. When did they move Costco? We eventually found the 'new' one. Also visited a scrapbooking store. Across the street the sign at the Sunshine Cafe said they closed at 3:00, but they kindly let us in at 3:05. Friendly service, and nice, clean washrooms there.
Two things stood out to me already.
1. Police presence. I saw more police cars in three days in Washington than I would normally see in a month in Victoria, BC.
2. People seemed to be generally more polite than in Victoria where people routinely stand in the way, bash into you on the sidewalk, don't say excuse me, etc. What happened to our manners in Canada (or at least in Victoria)?
The Inn at Port Hadlock
This former chemical company building sits at the foot of Port Townsend Bay. It was amazing to see the photos of the transformation from the abandoned shell to what it is today. We knew this would not be a standard chain style hotel.
We arrived at dusk. The attractive lobby of the inn is large and full of artworks - glass, jewelry and sculptures, much of it for sale. While most of it wasn't our cup of tea, it was at least out of the ordinary. There are a few seating areas in the lobby as well.
Sadly, there were no fresh-baked cookies at the check-in desk... but there was a nicely carved pumpkin.
A November special got us upgraded to a comfortable suite with a water view. The bed was on a raised level, with a handy motion sensor light at the steps. Walls were pale sage green with an accent wall of warm orange that looked great in any light. From the bedroom's half wall we could look down to the living room. There was a gas fireplace which gave out a lot of heat. (Heat is an important issue with me. People rave about the Wedgewood Hotel in Vancouver, but I found it too darned cold in November.) There was a good sized desk, two large-screen televisions, a coffee maker, microwave oven, small fridge, iron and ironing board.
Nemo's Restaurant
The inn's restaurant is also a comfortable area with a water view. We only had one dinner here. My husband's "Airline chicken" was not as good as my pork tenderloin dish. There was a lot of food so we shared.
We especially liked the breakfasts here, which were included in the rate. Aside from the muffins, juice, coffee, cereal, and the do-it-yourself waffle maker, there was bacon and scrambled eggs. Unfortunately I never got to try anything other than the plate sized waffles with strawberries and whipped cream. Mmm.
All in all, we felt we got very good value at the Inn at Port Hadlock and we would stay there again. If I have any criticism, it would be about the metal "wind chime" outside that clanged in the wind all night long.
http://www.innatporthadlock.com/
Interesting tidbits
It was news to me that the Ma and Pa Kettle films were based on the book "The Egg and I," which was about experiences on a chicken farm in an area just south of Port Hadlock.
I also didn't know that Ansel Adams' grandfather's company had a sawmill in this part of the country.
Port Townsend Aero Museum
What a gem of an airport (Jefferson County International Airport). The museum has a good thing going by not only restoring and flying antique airplanes but with an apprentice program for young people. We bought some cards that were designed by one of them. It was refreshing to see genuine enthusiasm here. If you want to visit, maybe wait until spring, or whenever they finish their new larger building, which looks like it should be a good one.
http://www.ptaeromuseum.com/
Port Townsend
We've been here a couple of times before, so we didn't stop at the large shipyard - we just poked around the shops. The stores in this area seem to be mostly antique/collectible, book, knickknack, and vintage clothing, but I managed to find some good stationery items, which is something I always look for in our travels.
Apparently they don't have truck loading zones in Port Townsend. It was amusing to watch delivery trucks just park in the middle of the street and unload from there, while cars pass by on either side.
Highlights in Port Townsend this visit:
1. My husband was able to get a peanut butter and jelly sandwich at The Nifty Fifties Soda Fountain.
2. Historic photogravure pictures by E.S. Curtis at the Gallery of the North American Indian. These are photos of some 80 tribes in the early 1900s. (Indian is a word rarely used in Canada so it's always a little surprising to see.)
3. The Vintage Hardware store.
Poulsbo
We had time to spare so we decided to head down to Poulsbo, which meant we had to cross the long, long Hood Canal Bridge. Poulsbo is not just about RVs. No, down by the water is a tidy little town with a Norwegian influence. There was a time supposedly when the residents only spoke Norwegian. We'd been here before too and were glad to see the nautical store still in business.
Stylish totems, beautiful location
The next morning we had another filling breakfast and checked out of the inn.
The woods and ravens and coastal waters in this part of the world sometimes give you an almost haunting feeling of what it might have been like before foreigners came along, and it's no different in parts of the Olympic peninsula.
On our way back to Port Angeles we stopped to look at some totem poles at the bayside Jamestown S'Klallam (the strong people) Tribal Center. I heard that the tribe bought this land and they've obviously been doing very well. There is a casino too, but that's not our thing. I’m not a big fan of totems either but found it interesting nevertheless to read about the difference in carving styles between the Salish and other tribes such as the Haida and Tlingit. The giveaway, I read, is that the face is carved in three planes. The Salish use a gash for lips and the eyes are one-dimensional. Another interesting thing about these totems is that the designer and main carver is a non-native. On one totem the Mother of the Wolf Children holds a digging stick (used for clamming I presume) and on the adjoining pole the Head Chief at Dungeness holds seven tall feathers in honour of each of his sons and a smaller feather in the centre in honour of his daughter.
Detour in Sequim
Without knowing if there was actually a bridge in Railroad Bridge Park we ventured a short distance off the highway in Sequim. There is a bridge. First used in 1915, it is now part of a footpath. It was worth going to see the bridge as well as the lovely countryside with red & yellow fall foliage.
Note to self - read your notes!
We arrived back in Port Angeles two hours early because I hadn't been paying closer attention to my notes. We could have spent more time in Sequim, where I've always wanted to walk the long spit. Now we tried to figure out what to do with the extra time in Port Angeles. I didn't want to spend $15 just to race up to Hurricane Ridge and back (been there before) so we popped into the tourist information office in that dismal little mall by the ferry terminal.
Note to Port Angeles:
Maybe they're volunteers in this office but do try to get somebody with a smidge of enthusiasm for the area. We got no help here at all.
After floundering around a while, we decided to drive west. If I've ever gone that way, it was so long ago I don't remember but I definitely want to go back and spend more time some day.
We came to a bend in the road beside Lake Crescent where the lighting was spectacular. Sun streaming through mist backlit reddish treetrunks on one side of the road while on the other a steep mountainside rose up, black in silhouette. Ahead we could see mist from a waterfall but ran out of time and had to head back to the ferry terminal.
Luckily this time we were one of the first off the ferry back in Victoria and we were out and through customs in 5-10 minutes.
The End.
We took a morning ferry (Coho – about $55 one way) from Victoria to Port Angeles, arriving in fog. We were among the last to leave the ferry and therefore get through customs but that only took about 15-20 minutes in total. The friendly customs (immigration?) man advised turning right instead of left out of the terminal because of road construction and this led to a happy surprise for my husband - a hobby shop just down the street.
Sequim – lavender/farm land and a sandy spit
I like Sequim. For one thing, it (like the sunny San Juan Islands) sits in the Olympic rain shadow so it is drier and sunnier than surrounding areas. A grain elevator loomed out of the fog on this day so it was not a good time for sightseeing. When did they move Costco? We eventually found the 'new' one. Also visited a scrapbooking store. Across the street the sign at the Sunshine Cafe said they closed at 3:00, but they kindly let us in at 3:05. Friendly service, and nice, clean washrooms there.
Two things stood out to me already.
1. Police presence. I saw more police cars in three days in Washington than I would normally see in a month in Victoria, BC.
2. People seemed to be generally more polite than in Victoria where people routinely stand in the way, bash into you on the sidewalk, don't say excuse me, etc. What happened to our manners in Canada (or at least in Victoria)?
The Inn at Port Hadlock
This former chemical company building sits at the foot of Port Townsend Bay. It was amazing to see the photos of the transformation from the abandoned shell to what it is today. We knew this would not be a standard chain style hotel.
We arrived at dusk. The attractive lobby of the inn is large and full of artworks - glass, jewelry and sculptures, much of it for sale. While most of it wasn't our cup of tea, it was at least out of the ordinary. There are a few seating areas in the lobby as well.
Sadly, there were no fresh-baked cookies at the check-in desk... but there was a nicely carved pumpkin.
A November special got us upgraded to a comfortable suite with a water view. The bed was on a raised level, with a handy motion sensor light at the steps. Walls were pale sage green with an accent wall of warm orange that looked great in any light. From the bedroom's half wall we could look down to the living room. There was a gas fireplace which gave out a lot of heat. (Heat is an important issue with me. People rave about the Wedgewood Hotel in Vancouver, but I found it too darned cold in November.) There was a good sized desk, two large-screen televisions, a coffee maker, microwave oven, small fridge, iron and ironing board.
Nemo's Restaurant
The inn's restaurant is also a comfortable area with a water view. We only had one dinner here. My husband's "Airline chicken" was not as good as my pork tenderloin dish. There was a lot of food so we shared.
We especially liked the breakfasts here, which were included in the rate. Aside from the muffins, juice, coffee, cereal, and the do-it-yourself waffle maker, there was bacon and scrambled eggs. Unfortunately I never got to try anything other than the plate sized waffles with strawberries and whipped cream. Mmm.
All in all, we felt we got very good value at the Inn at Port Hadlock and we would stay there again. If I have any criticism, it would be about the metal "wind chime" outside that clanged in the wind all night long.
http://www.innatporthadlock.com/
Interesting tidbits
It was news to me that the Ma and Pa Kettle films were based on the book "The Egg and I," which was about experiences on a chicken farm in an area just south of Port Hadlock.
I also didn't know that Ansel Adams' grandfather's company had a sawmill in this part of the country.
Port Townsend Aero Museum
What a gem of an airport (Jefferson County International Airport). The museum has a good thing going by not only restoring and flying antique airplanes but with an apprentice program for young people. We bought some cards that were designed by one of them. It was refreshing to see genuine enthusiasm here. If you want to visit, maybe wait until spring, or whenever they finish their new larger building, which looks like it should be a good one.
http://www.ptaeromuseum.com/
Port Townsend
We've been here a couple of times before, so we didn't stop at the large shipyard - we just poked around the shops. The stores in this area seem to be mostly antique/collectible, book, knickknack, and vintage clothing, but I managed to find some good stationery items, which is something I always look for in our travels.
Apparently they don't have truck loading zones in Port Townsend. It was amusing to watch delivery trucks just park in the middle of the street and unload from there, while cars pass by on either side.
Highlights in Port Townsend this visit:
1. My husband was able to get a peanut butter and jelly sandwich at The Nifty Fifties Soda Fountain.
2. Historic photogravure pictures by E.S. Curtis at the Gallery of the North American Indian. These are photos of some 80 tribes in the early 1900s. (Indian is a word rarely used in Canada so it's always a little surprising to see.)
3. The Vintage Hardware store.
Poulsbo
We had time to spare so we decided to head down to Poulsbo, which meant we had to cross the long, long Hood Canal Bridge. Poulsbo is not just about RVs. No, down by the water is a tidy little town with a Norwegian influence. There was a time supposedly when the residents only spoke Norwegian. We'd been here before too and were glad to see the nautical store still in business.
Stylish totems, beautiful location
The next morning we had another filling breakfast and checked out of the inn.
The woods and ravens and coastal waters in this part of the world sometimes give you an almost haunting feeling of what it might have been like before foreigners came along, and it's no different in parts of the Olympic peninsula.
On our way back to Port Angeles we stopped to look at some totem poles at the bayside Jamestown S'Klallam (the strong people) Tribal Center. I heard that the tribe bought this land and they've obviously been doing very well. There is a casino too, but that's not our thing. I’m not a big fan of totems either but found it interesting nevertheless to read about the difference in carving styles between the Salish and other tribes such as the Haida and Tlingit. The giveaway, I read, is that the face is carved in three planes. The Salish use a gash for lips and the eyes are one-dimensional. Another interesting thing about these totems is that the designer and main carver is a non-native. On one totem the Mother of the Wolf Children holds a digging stick (used for clamming I presume) and on the adjoining pole the Head Chief at Dungeness holds seven tall feathers in honour of each of his sons and a smaller feather in the centre in honour of his daughter.
Detour in Sequim
Without knowing if there was actually a bridge in Railroad Bridge Park we ventured a short distance off the highway in Sequim. There is a bridge. First used in 1915, it is now part of a footpath. It was worth going to see the bridge as well as the lovely countryside with red & yellow fall foliage.
Note to self - read your notes!
We arrived back in Port Angeles two hours early because I hadn't been paying closer attention to my notes. We could have spent more time in Sequim, where I've always wanted to walk the long spit. Now we tried to figure out what to do with the extra time in Port Angeles. I didn't want to spend $15 just to race up to Hurricane Ridge and back (been there before) so we popped into the tourist information office in that dismal little mall by the ferry terminal.
Note to Port Angeles:
Maybe they're volunteers in this office but do try to get somebody with a smidge of enthusiasm for the area. We got no help here at all.
After floundering around a while, we decided to drive west. If I've ever gone that way, it was so long ago I don't remember but I definitely want to go back and spend more time some day.
We came to a bend in the road beside Lake Crescent where the lighting was spectacular. Sun streaming through mist backlit reddish treetrunks on one side of the road while on the other a steep mountainside rose up, black in silhouette. Ahead we could see mist from a waterfall but ran out of time and had to head back to the ferry terminal.
Luckily this time we were one of the first off the ferry back in Victoria and we were out and through customs in 5-10 minutes.
The End.
Dec 9th, 2007, 03:52 PM
#3
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,090
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the trip report. I enjoyed reading it. We really like visiting Canada in the winter. The hotel rates are lower and the crowds are down. It's an easy getaway from Seattle and we feel like we are really getting away. I'm glad Canadians enjoy crossing the border and visiting the US for weekends, as well.
I didn't know there was an airplane museum in Port Townsend. That will definitely interest my husband. Also, thanks for the info on the Inn at Port Hadlock. That sounds like a nice place to stay.
We were in Poulsbo one time when there was a Norwegian Dance group that performed at the Sons of Norway Hall (I think it is called) right near the downtown.) It was open to everyone so we got to enjoy the folk dancing that night. Really fun!
Hope you have a good holiday!
I didn't know there was an airplane museum in Port Townsend. That will definitely interest my husband. Also, thanks for the info on the Inn at Port Hadlock. That sounds like a nice place to stay.
We were in Poulsbo one time when there was a Norwegian Dance group that performed at the Sons of Norway Hall (I think it is called) right near the downtown.) It was open to everyone so we got to enjoy the folk dancing that night. Really fun!
Hope you have a good holiday!
Dec 9th, 2007, 05:04 PM
#4
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,832
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Interesting trip report -- we live in the area and enjoy visiting Victoria, Vancouver and Whistler, so it's nice to hear a Canadian's viewpoint about your neighbors to the south. We've always felt that British Columbians are more polite than Washingtonians, though!
I've not even been to the AeroMuseum at the airport, though we often eat at the wonderful Spruce Goose Cafe there. Try it next time you're down here. You are probably the first to ever post a trip report for Port Hadlock; I'm sure the Chamber of Commerce would be delighted. Another restaurant recommendation in the area would be the Ajax Cafe; good food and your choice of funny hats to wear during your meal. Other local favorites include the Chimacum Cafe (for pies), Bloomer's Landing (for burgers) and Ferino's for really fine pizza.
I've not even been to the AeroMuseum at the airport, though we often eat at the wonderful Spruce Goose Cafe there. Try it next time you're down here. You are probably the first to ever post a trip report for Port Hadlock; I'm sure the Chamber of Commerce would be delighted. Another restaurant recommendation in the area would be the Ajax Cafe; good food and your choice of funny hats to wear during your meal. Other local favorites include the Chimacum Cafe (for pies), Bloomer's Landing (for burgers) and Ferino's for really fine pizza.
Dec 9th, 2007, 05:26 PM
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,121
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Orcas and Azzure -
A lot of people don't know about the museum in Port Townsend. We only learned about it this fall. It's in transition at the moment so planes are in various hangars, but when you drive in to the Spruce Goose Cafe you can't miss the new building at the top of the driveway. (They can surely use donations for this project, if anyone's interested.) We didn't eat at the cafe but will next time because we're sure to go back.
I found the Inn at Port Hadlock while researching places to stay in Port Townsend. We didn't feel like staying in a B&B so this place worked out very well. It's not very far from Port Townsend either.
I'm glad to hear you're finding some polite British Columbians, Azzure! I had fully planned, by the way, to eat at the Ajax Cafe, but my husband didn't care for the look of it... from the outside. Thanks for the other recommendations.
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ebgaber
United States
4
Aug 17th, 2004 03:51 PM
