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Suggestions for 3 days in Savannah?

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Suggestions for 3 days in Savannah?

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Old Dec 27th, 1999 | 10:24 AM
  #1  
Frank
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Suggestions for 3 days in Savannah?

I plan on visiting Savannah in late March or early April for 3 days, in connection with a slightly longer stopover in Charleston. Any suggestions for sights and dining? I am considering staying at the Hyatt Regency.
 
Old Dec 29th, 1999 | 09:48 AM
  #2  
cmcdaniel
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This is an edited "cut and paste" from a response I made a few weeks back, so if you've read it before, my apologies! My husband was GM of the Hyatt for 4 years before we were transferred to our current hotel 3 years ago. It's a beautiful city and you'll be there at the best time of year, when the azaleas will be just about peak. (Usually around the 3rd week in March but it's beautiful for a couple of weeks on either side of peak as well).

The Hyatt has a great location on the river in the historic district. If you do stay there, be sure to ask for a river view room. The ship traffic will amaze you, with huge container ships passing at eye level, no matter what floor you are on. There are two other hotels right on the river...I honestly don't want to promote our hotel. There is a Marriott at the other end of Bay and now a Westin open across the river on Hutchinson Island with a great view of River St. I've seen material on it and it looks fantastic. They have boat taxis to take guests across to the historic district. Think I'd still prefer to be able to walk right out my door into the historic district, but others might want some of the other amenities that hotel offers-golf and a day spa.

Start your visit by taking one of the trolley/bus tours to orient yourself and get the history of the city. There are tours of varying length, and many will include one or more house tours in the cost. Some also take in the more distant Bonaventure Cemetery (not to be missed, especially during azalea season) and/or Bluff Drive area which is simply beautiful but very difficult to find on your own. (Bluff Drive is) As many times as I did that route when we had folks visiting us, I still needed a map to get in and out!

The historic district is safe but bounded by areas that aren't so good. It's bounded roughly by Montgomery St on the west and Broad on the east, the river on the north, and Park St on the south. You will sense when you are leaving the good areas--go with your instincts. I would not recommend walking much at night unless on River St where there are plenty of crowds, or City Market. Nighttime as not the time to view the little side streets.

Walking is the best way to see the city. One of the prettiest walks and my running route (we lived in the hotel) ran from City Hall, next to the hotel on Bay St. down Bull St to Forsyth Park. This route takes you through some of the prettiest of the squares. (26 squares have survived intact from the initial layout of the city in 1733). The first two or 3 squares are commercial, then you get into the residential squares, lined with some beautiful homes. Side streets from around Perry on down are also beautiful. That walk ends in Forsyth Park, a several acre park whose centerpiece is its fantastic 3 tiered fountain.

You'll pass through Chippewa Square on this route. It was used for all the "bench/bus stop" scenes in Forest Gump if it seems vaguely familiar to you. People spend a lot of time searching for the bench. It's not there...only in the movie but it's location had been the north side of that square.

Monterey Square is along this route as well, and contains the house made famous by the book, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. Try to read the book before going as you'll surely hear all about it after getting there! John Berendt, the author, truly fell in love with the city and often comes to visit still.

You'll also want to walk along River St. The cobblestones there and on the ramps had been used as ballast in the ships coming over. There are lots of shops here, but too many sort of T-shirt tacky.

House tours: Juliette Gordon Low house, Davenport House, Green Meldrim, and Owens-Thomas are some of our favorites, all good and each tour fascinating. Owens-Thomas was my favorite as it was still a work in progress. Interesting to see what time and humidity can do to a structure and the work involved in reclaiming it.

Restaurants: Both Mrs. Wilkes and the Lady & Sons (City Market) have great downhome southern cooking. Mrs. Wilkes is an institution not to be missed. It's open only Monday thru Friday and for breakfast and lunch only. No reservations are accepted and you'll have to wait in line. Talk with the people you stand in line with. Hopefully you'll like them, as you are going to end up eating with them--seating is family style at large tables. The menu is fixed, and served family style as well...big bowls and platters passed from diner to diner. You even get to carry your plates out to the kitchen when the meal is over! This maybe the only meal you'll need that day. It's huge and deliciously decadently southern. Just push the word calorie out of your mind for this one fantastic meal. Elizabeth's on 37th and 45 South are considered about the finest dining in town, both dressier and more expensive. Elizabeth's is in an old mansion--do take a cab. Though it's a award winning restaurant, it's not in an area you want to walk in! Pink House is also good, also dressier and located downtown in the historic district. Very good and less formal are Garribaldi's, the Bistro, and Sapphire Grill, all in City Market area of downtown. Good too, Il Pasticcio (Italian) on Bull St. Our favorite for seafood is a ways out of town, the Crab Shack off Hwy 80 on the way to Tybee, located on Estill Hammock Rd. It's harder to find, really is a shack, but has great seafood and NOT all fried (sometimes hard to find in this area) fun atmosphere, and very friendly service. Don't be put off by the exterior...it's a fun place with a sort of Key West ambience. If you are just in the mood for a burger, try the Crystal Beer Parlor over in the vicintiy of the civic Center.

Not to be missed history-wise is Ft. Pulaski out toward Tybee Island. It dates to the early 1800's, is surrounded by a moat and can be toured inside and out via self-guided tour. If you walk along the outer bank of the moat on the south east side of the fort, you can still see the cannonballs embedded in its walls from the shelling it took from Union forces on Tybee.

Hope this has helped. Sorry for the length. I do love this city and a request for suggestions brings forth volumes! gt; You've allowed just about the right amount of time to see the city well, and you do need more time for Charleston, which is equally, but differently, beautiful. If I can be of further help, I'll be glad to try.
C. McDaniel...Tampa, now..
 
Old Jan 3rd, 2000 | 01:38 PM
  #3  
Frank
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To: C McDaniel
Thanks for your helpful response. I intend to make good use of your advise.
 
Old Jan 4th, 2000 | 09:30 AM
  #4  
anon
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While cmcd has done Savannah proud, I would just like to add that in my opinion it's a city with some amazing b&bs and inns in historic houses, much more in keeping with the flavor of the place than a chain hotel (no offense to you or your husband, cmcd!). My mother and I stayed at the Ballastone Inn and LOVED it.
 
Old Jan 4th, 2000 | 01:35 PM
  #5  
cmcdaniel
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To anon above. Thanks, I love the city and enjoy sharing it!

I responded with hotels as that seemed the direction Frank was looking, but you are absolutely correct. There are some great B&Bs there too. I've never heard anything negative said about the Ballastone--everyone seems to enjoy it. Foley House on Chippewa Sqare is also excellent, as is the Gastonian. In fact, when we moved 3 years ago, the Gastonian had been and was still the #1 B&B in the city. It's pretty expensive though, along with the Kehoe House.

The choice between hotel and B&B is so personal and some have pretty definite ideas of which is best for them. I personally love B&Bs but my husband who is mixing and mingling all day every day, prefers the relative anonmyity of a hotel...where he can speak when he wants! ;> Either way, you'll have a wonderful trip. I try to be careful to be objective and never push a Hyatt, which is why I mentioned other hotels in my first post. That city is so busy though, they don't need anyone selling for them--they fill up with virtually no effort. It's an enviable positi
 
Old Jan 4th, 2000 | 06:55 PM
  #6  
topsy
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I have really enjoyed some house tours in this lovely old city. you will have a great time!
 
Old Jan 5th, 2000 | 06:15 AM
  #7  
Kanika P. Chopra
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Hi Frank and everyone else,
Just wanted to let you know that John T Edge, author of Fodor's Compass Georgia, is currently hosting a forum on Georgia (January 3 - 17).

If you have any more questions on Savannah or other Georgian cities, please feel free to post in that forum.

To find our hosted forum, just click on the "forums home" button in the top left corner of your browser window and then click on John T's picture.

Good luck and enjoy your travels!

p.s. great post cmdaniel!
 

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